Bakuchiol

This plant-derived phenolic molecule is extracted from the seeds and leaves of a plant traditionally used in Ayurveda and Chinese medicine. Chemically, it is not a retinoid, although it affects several similar gene pathways. It is oil-soluble, sensitive to light and oxidation, and used in cosmetics at low concentrations in serums and emulsions.

Bakuchiol supports collagen production, helps soften wrinkles, evens out skin tone and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Unlike retinol, it does not bind to retinoid receptors in the same way and usually causes less flaking and burning. However, this does not automatically make it risk-free. Its plant origin does not rule out an allergic reaction, and its effectiveness depends on its concentration, stability and consistent use.

We recommend it for mature, pigmented, sensitive and acne-prone skin, especially if retinoids cause significant irritation. It is also suitable for the first signs of wrinkles and loss of elasticity. For very reactive skin, it is sensible to start a few times a week. Anyone who is pregnant should consult their doctor about the safety of a specific product, even though bakuchiol is not a retinoid.

A randomised, double-blind study involving 44 participants compared 0,5 per cent bakuchiol applied twice daily with 0,5 per cent retinol applied once daily over 12 weeks. Both groups achieved comparable improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation, while bakuchiol caused less flaking and stinging (British Journal of Dermatology, 2019).

It is most commonly used at concentrations of around 0,5 to 1 per cent. It is added to the oil phase or cool-down phase and protected from light with opaque packaging. It combines well with niacinamide, peptides and antioxidants. On sensitive skin, it should not be layered with several strong exfoliants from the outset.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of consistent use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on how good and lasting the results will be.