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Perfection Body Serum - Smooths & Refines
4% AHA Complex, Panthenol • Bisabolol
Body serum with a 4% AHA complex smooths the skin and helps prevent ingrown hairs and bumps after shaving. Exfoliating acids are complemented by soothing panthenol and bisabolol.
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Smooths and softens the skin
This body serum with a 4% AHA complex cares for skin after shaving, hair removal and laser treatments. It softens the skin’s surface and helps prevent ingrown hairs and shaving bumps. Its exfoliating acids are complemented by soothing panthenol and bisabolol from German chamomile. A small amount is all you need to leave skin feeling smooth and soft.
What the serum helps with
- Skin after shaving, hair removal and laser treatments: the serum is designed to care for skin after hair removal and should be applied no sooner than 24 hours after shaving or hair removal. The active ingredient Bisabolol soothes the skin.
- Ingrown hairs: helps prevent hairs from becoming ingrown. The AHA complex of lactic and glycolic acids removes dead skin cells from the skin’s surface.
- Shaving bumps: helps reduce them and smooths the skin’s surface. Exfoliation is complemented by panthenol, which restores moisture to the skin.
Who it’s for
This body serum for smooth, soft skin is suitable for normal, dry, oily and combination skin. It is especially suitable for:
- skin after shaving, hair removal or laser treatments,
- skin prone to ingrown hairs,
- skin with shaving bumps,
- skin you’d like to smooth and soften.
Key ingredients
- 4% AHA complex: combines lactic acid and glycolic acid, which remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, smooth it and improve its elasticity. Lactic acid is produced by fermentation and is plant-derived. Glycolic acid is obtained mainly from sugar cane and beet.
- Panthenol (provitamin B5): binds water, helps keep the skin hydrated and has a soothing effect. In a study, measurable reduction in water loss from the skin was seen after 30 days of daily use.
- Bisabolol: an active ingredient with a soothing effect. It helps reduce redness, irritation and skin discomfort after shaving or hair removal.
- Salicylic acid: a BHA acid that complements exfoliation and helps soften the skin’s surface.
The formula is complemented by BIO neroli hydrosol from bitter orange flowers. Glycerin and betaine provide further hydration.
Texture
The serum has a subtle vanilla and coconut scent. The fragrance is warm and sweet.
How to use
Apply a small amount to clean, completely dry skin and do not rinse off. Use the serum in the evening, starting with 2–3 times a week. If your skin tolerates it well, gradually increase use to every other evening. Apply no sooner than 24 hours after shaving or hair removal.
Autoloading Dropper prepares itself when opened and dispenses approximately 0.25 ml. This means you don’t need to scoop up the serum with your fingers, and the wiper removes excess product from the pipette.
Ingredients
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Water, Aqua, Propanediol, Lactic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycolic Acid, Panthenol, Butyl Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Salicylic Acid, Pullulan, Bisabolol, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Studies cited
- Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62(4):361-70.
Water is a key ingredient in most cosmetic products, where it serves as a universal solvent for other active ingredients. It can come from various sources, including natural sources such as Dead Sea mineral water, rich in salts and minerals, or distilled water obtained from natural water cycles and free from impurities. In organic cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrolate, an aromatic water obtained by distilling plants that retains essential oils and other beneficial compounds. Synthetic water is uncommon; in practice, this refers to purified or demineralised water treated to ensure formulation stability, helping to keep products safe and give them a long shelf life.
Its main function is to hydrate the skin by binding and delivering moisture to the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, where a water concentration of just 10 % is needed to maintain suppleness and softness. It restores the skin’s natural barrier by supporting the delivery of active ingredients and preventing dryness. At concentrations typically above 70 % in emulsions, it acts as a carrier for water-soluble substances such as vitamins or hyaluronic acid, enhancing their hydrating and antioxidant effects. Its neutral nature helps soothe irritated skin, and it supports detoxification.
It is recommended for all skin types, particularly dry, dehydrated, sensitive and irritated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and eases discomfort. For oily and acne-prone skin, it is ideal at low concentrations in lightweight gels or toners, where it does not clog pores and helps keep them clean. Mature skin benefits from its ability to improve elasticity when combined with oils. It is also suitable for children and newborns in soothing products.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science showed that formulations containing 80-90 % aqua combined with humectants increased stratum corneum hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of daily use (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Dermatology confirmed that Dead Sea water at a concentration of 5 % in a serum improved skin barrier function by 30 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in patients with dry skin (International Journal of Dermatology, 2015).
Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is an inorganic chemical compound produced synthetically through the electrolysis of sodium chloride. Today, it is manufactured using modern brine electrolysis, in which it is formed as a by-product of chlorine production. This strongly alkaline compound has the formula NaOH and consists of sodium ions and hydroxide anions, which are responsible for its pronounced alkaline properties.
In cosmetics, sodium hydroxide acts primarily as a pH regulator and buffering agent. Its main role is to neutralise excess acidity in products, ensuring that the finished product is balanced and safe for the skin. In chemical peels and exfoliating products, it helps break down the outer layers of the skin, allowing dead skin cells to be removed. Sodium hydroxide is also used in soap-making, where it combines with vegetable oils and fats to form the basis of bar soaps through a process called saponification. In cosmetics, it is used at very low concentrations – approximately 2 % in hair relaxers, 4,5 % in professional hair relaxers and up to pH 12,7 in hair removal products.
Sodium hydroxide is particularly recommended in products designed to care for sensitive and mature skin, where precise pH adjustment is important. It is found in shampoos, shower gels, creams, soaps and even hair removal products. People with very sensitive skin, eczema or a compromised skin barrier are advised to consult a dermatologist before use, as sodium hydroxide in its pure form is a highly corrosive substance that causes severe burns.
Most high-quality cosmetic products containing sodium hydroxide are formulated within a safe pH range of 4,5 to 5,5, which corresponds to the natural pH of human skin. These products are usually well tolerated by the skin, provided the concentration is appropriate and they are used correctly according to the instructions. In the event of a chemical burn, the affected area should be rinsed immediately with cold water and neutralised with diluted vinegar or citric acid.
Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.
Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.
This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.
Lactic acid is a plant-derived acid produced by fermentation. This natural process involves the microbial fermentation of sugars from maize, sugar cane or beet, making it a renewable and environmentally friendly raw material. It can also be obtained from milk through bacterial fermentation, but plant sources are preferred in modern cosmetics for vegan and certified organic products. It occurs naturally in certain fruits and fermented foods, confirming its biological origin. Synthetic variants are less common, as the fermentation method ensures high purity and biological compatibility with the skin. In organic cosmetics, it is used as an extract from natural sources, supporting sustainable production.
It is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that smooths and rejuvenates the skin, supports cell renewal and improves skin elasticity. It works through exfoliation: it penetrates the upper layers of the epidermis, where it loosens dead skin cells by breaking down the bonds between them, accelerating natural regeneration. It hydrates the skin by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and hyaluronic acid in the skin, restores the lipid barrier and acts as an antioxidant against free radicals. It soothes irritation and reduces inflammation. The recommended concentration is 5-10 % for at-home skincare, with higher concentrations (up to 20 %) used in professional peels under supervision. It is a gentler alternative to glycolic acid in cosmetics. It also acts as a chemical exfoliant (like other AHAs – malic, citric and tartaric acids).
It is particularly suitable for ageing and mature skin. It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin. For dry and mature skin, it boosts hydration and stimulates collagen production; for sensitive skin, it soothes without irritation; and for oily and acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and clears pores. Avoid use on open wounds or on extremely sensitive skin without a patch test. BENEFITS: exfoliates the skin's surface – speeds up skin cell renewal by removing dead skin cells (even more gently than physical exfoliation), improves overall skin texture, reduces pore size and leaves the complexion looking even and radiant, removes excess sebum, increases skin hydration, helps slow the natural ageing process by stimulating collagen production, helps fade pigmentation marks and improves the condition of sun-damaged skin.
Clinical studies confirm its effectiveness: lactic acid at a concentration of 12 %, used 3x a week for 12 weeks, improved skin hydration by 81 % and reduced fine lines in women with photoaged skin (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2008). Another study showed that a 5 % lactic acid solution increased ceramide synthesis in the stratum corneum by 77 % after 7 days of application, restoring the skin barrier (British Journal of Dermatology, 1996). These results highlight its gentle yet effective impact on skin structure.
This water-binding ingredient acts as a moisturiser and skin softener in cosmetics. It helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. Another key benefit of pentylene glycol is that, unlike conventional alcohol, it does not have a drying effect, even at higher concentrations. Pentylene glycol is an excellent aid for macerating herbs. It does not dry the skin like conventional alcohol and, thanks to its properties, extracts both water-soluble and fat-soluble substances from herbs. Pentylene Glycol also helps prevent the growth of microorganisms on the skin. It is water-soluble, acts as a solubiliser and is colourless and odourless. Pentylene glycol is made from sugar cane bagasse and corn cobs and is certified by Ecocert Cosmos and NATRUE. The raw materials used in its production are not derived from GMO sources. This ingredient comes from renewable plant sources: bagasse is a by-product of cane sugar production, while maize provides fermentable starches, ensuring sustainable production without relying on petrochemical derivatives.
Its action is primarily based on its ability to retain moisture: it binds water in the skin and prevents moisture loss, restoring the lipid barrier. It also has antimicrobial properties that inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi, allowing it to act as a gentle preservative. It helps active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin without disrupting its structure. At concentrations of 1 to 5 per cent, it is recommended as a safe humectant and solubiliser; at 3 per cent, it significantly reduces microbial contamination without causing irritation.
It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, providing effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its non-comedogenic and antimicrobial properties, which help prevent inflammation without clogging pores. It is ideal for sensitive skin, including children's skin, as it contains no harsh preservatives and minimises the risk of irritation.
A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) showed that pentylene glycol at a concentration of 4 per cent inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 per cent and Candida albicans by 99,8 per cent after 48 hours of exposure, confirming its strong antimicrobial effects while remaining safe for the skin. Further research in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2008) reports that, at a concentration of 2 per cent, it reduces microbial contamination in cosmetic emulsions by 4 log units within 7 days.
An exceptionally precious essential oil is extracted from the pleasantly scented white flowers of the bitter orange tree, which also yield a remarkable, exquisite hydrolat whose beneficial properties are used in cosmetics and hydrolat therapy. This organic hydrolat is produced as a by-product of the steam distillation of Citrus aurantium amara flowers, grown organically without chemical sprays. It is a 100 % natural product rich in natural essential oils, flavonoids and antioxidants that occur naturally in this plant native to the Mediterranean region. Unlike synthetic alternatives, it retains the full profile of bioactive compounds, ensuring greater quality and efficacy in cosmetic formulations. The production process is environmentally friendly, with no added preservatives or chemicals, making it ideal for organic cosmetics certified to strict standards.
NEROLI hydrolat has regenerating properties and stimulates the formation of new cells. It brightens the skin, enhancing its radiance and luminosity. It soothes and refreshes the skin at the same time. It works by moisturising the skin through its natural hydrating ability, restoring the skin barrier through flavonoids that strengthen the lipid layer, and providing antioxidant protection against free radicals. It also has a gentle exfoliating effect by stimulating cell renewal and significantly soothes irritation. In cosmetics, it is recommended at concentrations of 5-20 % in toners, serums or masks for optimal results without the risk of irritation.
It is particularly recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, where it effectively reduces redness and supports elasticity. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its refreshing and soothing properties, which regulate sebum production without drying the skin. For sensitive skin types, it is ideal as a gentle toner after cleansing. A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2015) showed that neroli oil at a concentration of 1 % reduced stress levels by 25 % in women following a hysterectomy over 4 weeks of inhalation, confirming its soothing effects on both the skin and the mind. Further research in the International Journal of Neuroscience (2009) reported that neroli aromatherapy increased parasympathetic nervous system activity by 18 %, promoting relaxation and skin regeneration. It has a beautiful fragrance used in both aromatherapy and perfumery. It is used therapeutically for its calming properties. It is excellent for depression, anxiety, mood swings, fear and shock, and helps combat insomnia.
Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.
As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.
It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.
A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.
This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.
Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.
We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.
In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.
It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.
In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.
An alpha-hydroxy acid, more commonly known as an AHA. It is isolated from natural sources, mainly sugar cane and sugar beet, as well as pineapple or grapes. It is an exceptionally potent active ingredient. As well as being obtained from natural sources, it can be produced synthetically for greater purity and stability, which is common in cosmetic manufacturing. Organic cosmetics favour extracts from certified plant sources, such as sugar cane, which offers an environmentally friendly alternative without chemical additives. This substance is one of the smallest AHAs, allowing it to act effectively on the skin.
It has a very low molecular weight, so it not only "works" on the skin's surface, where it removes the hardened layer of dead skin cells, but also penetrates the skin easily, influencing functions across all its layers. This delivers quick, visible results. It exfoliates by removing dead cells, hydrates by helping the skin retain moisture, restores the skin barrier by stimulating cell renewal, and acts as an antioxidant against free radicals. It soothes irritated skin and regulates sebum production. Recommended concentrations are 5-10 % for home care, with higher concentrations of 20-70 % for supervised professional peels.
It brightens the skin and prevents melanin from clustering, helping to prevent unwanted pigmentation. It unclogs pores and clears excess sebum, preventing the overgrowth of bacteria within the pores and reducing acne and blackheads. It stimulates collagen and elastin production, helping to reduce lines and wrinkles. It softens the skin, giving it a healthier appearance and improving its overall texture. It creates a funnel-like pathway in the skin, helping active ingredients penetrate significantly better. Ideal for dry, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin, especially for those with hyperpigmentation or rough skin texture. On sensitive skin, use with caution and increase the concentration gradually.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2002) demonstrated that daily application of 8 % glycolic acid for 22 weeks led to a 19 % improvement in skin smoothness and a 25 % reduction in the length of fine lines in women with photoaged skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (1996) showed that a 12 % concentration increased collagen synthesis in the dermal layer by 14,6 % after 6 months, as measured histologically.
Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.
Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.
Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.
A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).
A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.
Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.
It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.
Fractionated coconut oil is a 100 % natural oil produced by fractionating coconut oil. This process separates the oil into individual types of fatty acids. It remains liquid and is colourless and odourless. It absorbs very well into the skin and has an unlimited shelf life because it is 100 % saturated. It is a ‘dry’ oil, rich in fatty acids and moisturising components. The fractionation process removes longer-chain fatty acids, such as lauric acid, creating a lightweight blend of medium-chain fatty acids, mainly caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). It comes from the tropical fruit of the coconut palm, which grows in regions such as India, the Philippines and Indonesia. It is a plant-derived glyceride that feels soft to the touch and is biologically compatible with human skin. Unlike raw coconut oil, which solidifies at lower temperatures, fractionated coconut oil stays liquid even in the cold, making it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. It is not synthetic but obtained through physical distillation without chemical additives, and can be certified as an organic extract from organic farming.
A plant-derived glyceride with a very soft feel. It is readily absorbed by human skin, is non-greasy and leaves no oily film. It acts as an emollient, moisturising the skin by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring the lipid barrier. It softens, smooths and conditions the skin. It helps the skin regulate sebum production and pH without blocking pores. The oil improves the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, such as essential oils or herbal ingredients. It acts as a solvent for oil-soluble active ingredients (maceration). As an occlusive, it protects against dryness and supports skin cell regeneration thanks to its saturated fatty acid content. At concentrations of 5-20 % in emulsions, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity without being comedogenic (no risk of clogging pores).
Recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it provides effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for normal to combination skin, as it regulates sebum and leaves no film. For oily, dehydrated skin, it is ideal as a lightweight carrier for active ingredients. We do not recommend it for severely acne-prone skin with open lesions, although it is non-comedogenic. Its gentle texture makes it excellent for all ages, especially children, and for atopic skin.
A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride at a concentration of 10 % in a moisturising cream reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in subjects with dry skin. Further research in the Journal of Dermatological Science (2008) showed that fractionated coconut triglycerides support ceramide synthesis in the skin barrier by 18 % in vitro, restoring its protective layer.
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is a gentle emulsifying ingredient and cleansing agent often used in cosmetics and personal care products, particularly skincare. It is an ester of polyglycerol and capric acid, derived from fatty acids. Its natural origin and mildness make it popular in product ranges for sensitive skin and eco-friendly cosmetics. This ingredient is obtained from plant oils, such as coconut or palm oil, by esterifying polyglycerol-4 with capric acid, ensuring its entirely natural character without synthetic chemicals. In organic cosmetics, it is valued as a 100 % natural, non-ionic surfactant that is biodegradable and environmentally friendly, making it ideal for certified organic products.
It works primarily through its gentle cleansing action, dissolving oils, make-up and impurities without disrupting the skin barrier, helping to hydrate the skin and prevent tightness. As a non-ionic emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions in products, combining water and oils into uniform textures, typically at concentrations of 1-5 % in cleansers and 2-10 % in emulsions. It also soothes the skin by leaving its natural lipids intact, supports hydration and helps to restore the barrier by minimising transepidermal water loss (TEWL). These properties were confirmed in a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018), in which a concentration of 3 % Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in micellar water reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of use in participants with sensitive skin, compared with a placebo.
We recommend it for sensitive, dry, dehydrated and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin, where gentle cleansing without drying is essential. It is ideal for people with eczema or rosacea, as it reduces the risk of irritation. Avoid use only on extremely sensitive skin with open wounds.
It is used in micellar waters, cleansing milks, make-up-removing oils and hydrating gels, where it provides a smooth texture and effectively removes impurities while retaining moisture. Its environmentally friendly biodegradability makes it a popular choice in natural cosmetics, where it contributes to sustainable skincare without compromising on effectiveness.
Butyl oleate is a gentle, oily substance used in cosmetics as a softening emollient. It occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats, but in commercial cosmetics it is usually produced synthetically by esterifying oleic acid with butanol. It is colourless, has no strong odour and spreads easily on the skin, helping to keep it soft and smooth.
Butyl oleate works by significantly moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, forming a thin lipid film on the skin's surface that prevents water loss. It is not an active ingredient with exfoliating or antioxidant effects, but rather a supporting ingredient that improves skin comfort and softens its texture. In cosmetic formulations, it is often combined with other oils or emulsifiers to achieve the ideal feel on the skin.
Butyl oleate is particularly suitable for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin that needs extra nourishment and help locking in moisture. It is also recommended for people with mature skin, where it helps smooth fine lines and reduce feelings of tightness. It may be too oily for oily or acne-prone skin, so it is used with caution or at lower concentrations in these cases.
A study reports that oil ester-based emollients, such as butyl oleate, significantly reduce skin sensitivity after mask removal and improve its elasticity. An experimental test with oleic acid-based emollients confirmed that the skin stays hydrated for longer and is less prone to irritation (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019). Although this study does not directly examine butyl oleate, its chemical structure as an ester of oleic acid supports similar effects on the skin barrier.
Origin and key information:
This active ingredient is a 100 per cent natural multi-complex made up of fermented polysaccharides. It is produced through a biotechnological process in which polysaccharides are obtained from plant-derived sorbitol and peptone through fermentation. Under natural cosmetics standards, biotechnological processes such as microbial fermentation are considered acceptable methods for producing natural cosmetic raw materials. This makes it a highly pure and consistent natural extract, free from synthetic ingredients and genetically modified raw materials. Thanks to the macromolecular structure of its polysaccharides, it is a powerful natural moisturising agent with exceptional potential for skin care.
Function and mechanism of action:
This ingredient acts primarily as an intensive moisturising agent with immediate and long-lasting effects. Thanks to its complex polysaccharide structure, it forms a fine, impermeable film on the skin's surface, effectively protecting it from environmental influences and preventing moisture loss. It also actively restores the skin's natural moisture barrier. Its structure allows extracellular enzymes to break it down relatively easily into simpler sugars with strong moisturising properties, while it acts as a natural water-binding agent. The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing irritation and easing allergic reactions. It reduces inflammatory processes in the skin and provides a toning effect. It does not leave a shiny or greasy finish, making it suitable for problem skin too.
Clinical results and statistics:
Clinical testing has confirmed the exceptional effectiveness of this ingredient. One hour after application, skin hydration increases by 44 per cent. Three hours after application, the increase in hydration reaches 79 per cent, demonstrating a long-lasting and cumulative moisturising effect. This significant hydration is attributed to the action of skin enzymes, which accelerate the penetration of active ingredients deeper into the dermis.
Recommended skin types:
This ingredient is suitable for all skin types. It is particularly recommended for sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and supports regeneration. Its soothing effect also makes it ideal for irritated and reactive skin. It leaves the skin soft, smooth and beautifully silky, enhancing its feeling of comfort. As it leaves no stickiness or greasy shine, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. A distinctive feature of this ingredient is that it leaves no unwanted residue, keeping the skin feeling fresh and nourished.
Certification and environmental value:
This natural multi-complex is certified to prestigious international standards for natural and organic cosmetics. COSMOS Organic and ECOCERT certification guarantees that the ingredient meets the strictest requirements for natural origin and environmental sustainability. Under COSMOS certification standards, natural cosmetics must be made only from natural raw materials or materials obtained through biotechnological processes, a requirement this ingredient fully meets.
This water-soluble polymer is made by modifying natural cellulose. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, stabiliser and gelling agent. It has no pronounced colour or scent and allows the creation of clear to slightly opalescent serums. It is a functional ingredient in the formula, not an active botanical ingredient with a direct rejuvenating effect.
Hydroxyethylcellulose increases the viscosity of the water phase, keeps insoluble particles evenly dispersed and makes the product easier to dispense. It forms a fine film on the skin, which can reduce the feeling of roughness and help distribute hydrating or exfoliating active ingredients evenly. On its own, it does not replenish ceramides or stimulate collagen. At the right concentration, it gives the product a smooth glide, but too much can cause stringiness, stickiness or pilling.
In finished products, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as it is a non-ionic and generally well-tolerated polymer. It is useful in acid-based serums, hydrating gels, cleansers and scalp products. Suitability for a particular skin type always depends on the active ingredients and the preservative system.
Researchers used hydroxyethylcellulose as the base for a dermal hydrogel to deliver khellin and assessed its permeation and acute toxicity. The gel provided a stable carrier medium and enabled controlled delivery through the skin (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021). The study demonstrates the polymer's role as a safe carrier, not a therapeutic effect of its own.
The typical concentration is approximately 0,1 to 1,5 per cent. The powder should be dispersed slowly in water and allowed to hydrate fully to prevent lumps. The manufacturer must monitor viscosity at the target pH and compatibility with electrolytes, surfactants and high levels of active ingredients.
For the user, its benefits are mainly apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves when SPF or make-up is applied afterwards. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.
Description: This ingredient is a lightweight, plant-derived ester obtained from coconut oil and fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is used as a gentle, easily spreadable alternative to heavier silicones and rich oils. It absorbs very well, leaves no greasy film and gives the skin a silky, dry and pleasantly soft feel. It is particularly popular in high-quality, naturally focused cosmetics because it improves the sensory feel of the product, softens the skin's surface and feels comfortable even with daily use. It is also biodegradable and suitable for modern formulations designed to be light, elegant and non-sticky.
Function: It acts primarily as an emollient and softening ingredient, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and support a smoother, more supple appearance. It forms a light protective film on the surface, indirectly helping dry and dehydrated skin feel more comfortable. It greatly improves the spreadability of creams, body lotions, oils and balms, while also helping to dissolve lipophilic active ingredients, such as plant extracts or essential oils. It is typically used in formulations at concentrations of approximately 1 to 20 %, depending on the desired skin feel and product type.
Recommendations: It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs softening without a heavy, greasy feel. It is also a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin when a lightweight alternative to rich oils or silicones is needed. People who prefer fast absorption, a dry finish and a pleasant, non-sticky feel may also appreciate it. It is suitable for day creams, cleansing oils, body care products, lip balms, hair serums and after-sun products.
Citations, specific figures and statistics: In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, this ester was tested in a human repeat insult patch test on 50 volunteers at a concentration of 100 %; no sensitisation or clinically significant skin irritation was observed. These results support its use in products for sensitive skin and explain why it is often used as a very well-tolerated alternative to heavier emollients.
This aromatic beta-hydroxy acid occurs naturally in willow bark and other plants, but cosmetic-grade salicylic acid is usually produced synthetically to ensure precise purity. It is more soluble in alcohols and glycol carriers than in water. At a low pH, it acts as a keratolytic ingredient and is one of the most extensively studied actives for oily and acne-prone skin.
Salicylic acid penetrates the oily environment within pores, loosens the bonds between dead skin cells and helps reduce the formation of comedones. It also has an anti-inflammatory effect, so it may reduce the redness of blemishes. At the right dose, it smooths skin texture, but overuse leads to dryness, stinging and disruption of the skin barrier. It should not be used alongside several strong exfoliants at once.
We recommend it for oily, combination, acne-prone and thickened skin with blackheads and blocked pores. Dry or sensitive skin can benefit from targeted, less frequent use. Extra caution and professional advice are needed for anyone with a salicylate allergy or extensively damaged skin, and for young children.
A randomised clinical study showed that 2 per cent supramolecular salicylic acid achieved similar efficacy in mild to moderate acne to a combination of 5 per cent benzoyl peroxide and 0,1 per cent adapalene, and was well tolerated (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019). Conventional 2 per cent formulations also have long-term data supporting their ability to reduce comedones.
In Europe, it is commonly used in leave-on cosmetics within the permitted limit, often at 0,5 to 2 per cent depending on the purpose and product category. Its effectiveness depends on the pH and the proportion of free acid. SPF protection is needed during the day, and the frequency of use should be reduced if redness occurs.
When introducing targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish results from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.
This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.
In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.
It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.
A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.
During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.
Bisabolol is a natural, colourless, oily liquid extracted from the essential oil of German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita). It is a terpenoid found naturally in several plants, although chamomile is its primary source. Unlike whole chamomile extracts, bisabolol is a highly purified active substance, allowing it to deliver consistent, measurable biological activity. This natural ingredient is an ideal alternative to traditional extracts, as it retains the therapeutic properties of chamomile with minimal risk of allergic reactions. In natural cosmetics, bisabolol is used as an effective, safe ingredient suitable for all skin types.
Bisabolol acts on the skin in several ways. Its powerful anti-inflammatory properties inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators, such as leukotrienes and interleukin-1, reducing redness and irritation. As a natural antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals and slows photoageing. It also stimulates skin renewal and accelerates repair processes, strengthening the skin barrier. Bisabolol improves the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin thanks to its tenfold higher permeability compared with conventional ingredients. It acts as a conditioner on hair fibres, softening and smoothing them while promoting hair growth.
Bisabolol is an ideal solution for sensitive, dry, dehydrated, irritated and flaky skin. Its antimicrobial properties also make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, where it helps inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria. It is also recommended for mature skin showing signs of photoageing. As it is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin, it is suitable even for extremely sensitive skin types. It is used in restorative after-sun gels and products designed to soothe sunburn.
Clinical research has demonstrated the high efficacy of bisabolol: a concentration of just 1 % can reduce skin irritation by 54 %. Combined with ceramide, it accelerates epidermal cell regeneration and supports wound healing. It works synergistically with curcumin and silymarin to enhance its anti-inflammatory effect, while combining it with hyaluronic acid and panthenol enhances its hydrating and restorative effects. Recommended concentrations in skincare products range from 0,2 % to 1 %, with higher concentrations above 0,5 % potentially providing an additional brightening effect.
This ingredient is a natural extract obtained from the fruit of the Vanilla planifolia orchid, combined with glycerine and water. Vanilla pods undergo a drying and fermentation process that develops their characteristic aroma and releases phenolic compounds such as vanillin, vanillic acid and other aromatic alcohols and aldehydes. Glycerine is a hygroscopic substance, meaning it attracts moisture; water serves as a carrier and solvent.
How it works: glycerine acts as a humectant – at the concentrations used in cosmetic products, it significantly increases hydration of the stratum corneum, supports skin barrier repair and improves skin elasticity. Vanilla extract also acts as an antioxidant – in a study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, vanilla extract at a concentration of 200 ppm showed approximately 43 % of the free-radical-scavenging activity of the reference antioxidant BHA, measured using the DPPH method ([pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17715988/?utm_source=openai)). According to a 2008 review, glycerine supports hydration, barrier repair, improved elasticity and faster healing by promoting aquaporin-3 expression and regulating lipid metabolism in the epidermis ([pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18510666/?utm_source=openai)).
Skin type: Dry and dehydrated skin benefits most – glycerine reduces dryness and roughness, while vanilla extract helps soften the skin and protect it against oxidative stress. For mature skin, the extract may help slow the signs of ageing. If you have sensitive skin, you should patch-test the product because of its potential fragrance component – vanilla can cause irritation in some cases. For oily and acne-prone skin, glycerine is suitable, while vanilla extract can provide a pleasant fragrance if it is non-comedogenic, although concentration matters.
Studies and safety: In a 2025 report, the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety assessed vanilla-derived ingredients and stated that Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is commonly used at concentrations of up to 0,33 % in leave-on products and up to 0,25 % in rinse-off products. These concentrations are considered safe provided the products are non-greasy and do not cause sensitivity in the user ([cir-safety.org](https://cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/vanill042018slr.pdf?utm_source=openai)). A study on the antioxidant activity of vanilla extract (200 ppm ≈ 0,02 %) showed that the extract achieves approximately 43 % of the DPPH activity of BHA, suggesting a modest but significant antioxidant effect when used in the right form and concentration ([pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17715988/?utm_source=openai)).
This is a fine inorganic powder with a layered crystalline structure similar to graphite. In cosmetics, it is used as a sensory modifier, filler and light diffuser. The number in the name indicates the supplier's particle size or product grade. The material is chemically inert, white and provides a silky glide without noticeable shine.
Boron Nitride 6 improves the spreadability of powders and make-up, reduces friction between particles and creates a soft, smooth feel. By diffusing light, it visually softens the appearance of pores and fine lines. It can absorb some sebum and prolong a matte finish. It does not hydrate the skin or stimulate collagen. Its benefits are primarily visual, sensory and functional within the formulation.
It is suitable for make-up products for normal, oily and combination skin. A finer particle size grade can provide a smoother, less textured finish. For dry skin, it needs to be balanced with emollients so that the powder does not emphasise flaky patches. Sensitive skin generally tolerates this inert material well, but inhalation of loose powder should be minimised.
A safety assessment by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review analysed the available toxicological, dermal and clinical data and concluded that boron nitride is safe under current cosmetic uses and concentrations (International Journal of Toxicology, 2015). The assessment confirms its safety and glide-enhancing function, not any therapeutic effect on the skin in its own right.
The amount used ranges from approximately 1 to 20 per cent, depending on the type of powder or emulsion. The particles need to be mixed evenly with pigments and binders. Dust control is required when manufacturing loose powder products. The final effect depends on the particle size and the ratio to other fillers.
For the user, its benefits are most noticeable in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic feature, as it supports even application of active ingredients and regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves after SPF or make-up is applied. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.
dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.
Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.
Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.
Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide produced through fermentation by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. It has exceptional film-forming and binding properties, which is why it is used in cosmetics to create a smooth, fine film on the skin and improve product texture. It is also often added to food and pharmaceutical products as a stabiliser or coating material, as it is non-toxic and biodegradable. This polysaccharide is obtained through an environmentally friendly biotechnological process, similar to the production of hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation. Its molecular structure consists of glucose units linked by alpha-1,4 and alpha-1,6 bonds, giving it high viscosity and elasticity. Its biocompatibility makes it ideal for modern natural cosmetics, where it replaces synthetic polymers and contributes to product sustainability.
Pullulan acts as an excellent humectant and film-forming agent, creating a protective film on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss and restore the skin barrier. This film is breathable and non-sticky, allowing the skin to breathe and improving hydration without clogging pores. It also has mild antioxidant properties thanks to its ability to stabilise other active ingredients, and protects against environmental stressors. It does not exfoliate, but soothes the skin with its gentle texture. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 0,5 to 2 per cent, with 1 % significantly improving the sensory properties of gels and serums.
This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it strengthens the barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss. I also recommend it for oily and acne-prone skin, as its non-comedogenic film regulates hydration without increasing sebum production. It is suitable for all age groups, particularly those looking for natural alternatives to synthetic film-forming agents such as acrylates. In anti-ageing products, it supports smoothness and elasticity.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) demonstrated that pullulan at a concentration of 1 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2020) confirmed that pullulan improves the penetration of active ingredients by 35 % thanks to its film-forming properties (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2020). These data highlight its efficacy in clinical tests.
This aromatic ingredient is obtained by extracting coconut flesh with pressurised carbon dioxide. The process uses no conventional organic solvents and primarily captures lipophilic aroma and flavour molecules. The result is a concentrated extract with a distinctive coconut profile, used mainly to fragrance products and enhance their sensory qualities.
Coconut CO2 fragrance gives products a warm, sweet and creamy scent. Depending on its composition, it may contain small amounts of lipids and antioxidants, but it should not be presented as a substitute for coconut oil or as a potent hydrating active ingredient. Its main function is fragrance. On sensitive skin, any aromatic extract may increase the risk of irritation or contact allergy.
It is suitable for body care, hair care and rinse-off products for users who tolerate fragranced formulations well. For skin with rosacea, eczema, very sensitive skin or skin with a fragrance allergy, a fragrance-free alternative is more suitable. For acne-prone skin, what matters most is the overall combination of oils and fragrances, rather than the coconut origin alone.
A safety assessment of coconut-derived ingredients reviewed data on topical exposure and concluded that extracts from coconut flowers, fruit and liquid endosperm are safe at current cosmetic concentrations and under current conditions of use (International Journal of Toxicology, 2023). The assessment supports safety, not claims of clinically proven hydration from a specific CO2 fragrance extract.
It is used at very low levels, depending on its intensity and the supplier's recommendations. The allergen profile, IFRA restrictions and fragrance stability under exposure to heat and light must be checked. In facial skincare, the concentration should be minimal and clearly justified by the intended sensory effect.
Fragrance can significantly enhance the enjoyment of using a product, but it is not essential for the skin barrier. In facial products and products that remain in contact with the skin for a long time, the amount should be as low as possible. The composition of natural extracts may vary slightly between batches, so allergen checks and up-to-date documentation are necessary. Sensitive users should always opt for a fragrance-free alternative.
100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.
It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.
It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.
A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.
Innovative packaging for precise care
When choosing packaging for LucyLab, we focused on technologies that can genuinely simplify your daily skincare routine. The packaging should protect the formula, enable precise application and be intuitive and pleasant to use every time. That’s why we chose a dropper with an innovative Autoloading system for our concentrated serums and active formulas.
Autoloading Dropper – a pipette that gets ready for you
The automatic dispensing system takes the classic pipette a step further. As you handle the cap, the mechanism automatically gets ready to dispense the product, so you don’t have to manually squeeze and draw up the pipette before each application. Simply open the bottle and a dose of serum is ready to apply precisely. The result is a simpler, quicker and more elegant skincare ritual.
Precisely 0.25 ml, with no unnecessary waste
The Autoloading Dropper is designed to dispense a controlled dose of approximately 0.25 ml. Precise dispensing is ideal, especially for concentrated serums, where using the right amount matters. The glass pipette lets you apply the product directly to your skin or into your palm, while minimising unnecessary waste.
Clean and hygienic application
The product remains securely sealed in the bottle, and you don’t need to scoop it out with your fingers. The system also includes a wiper – a pipette wiper, which helps remove excess product from its surface. This makes application cleaner, more hygienic and convenient for everyday use.
PET and metal-free design with recycling in mind
The main bottle is made from PET – polyethylene terephthalate, a recyclable material commonly used in high-quality cosmetic packaging. The metal-free Autoloading Dropper design also eliminates the need for conventional metal components. PET is one of the packaging materials accepted by the COSMOS standard. Production takes place in systems certified to ISO 9001, ISO 14001 and ISO 45001.
LucyLab – technology you’ll notice with every drop
For LucyLab, the Autoloading Dropper combines innovative dispensing, hygienic application, modern design and a more considered packaging solution. Because with active skincare, what matters is not only what the formula contains, but also how precisely you can use it every day.
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