SOS Dark Spots - Intense Treatment Serum

An exceptionally precious essential oil is extracted from the pleasantly scented white flowers of the bitter orange tree, which also yield a remarkable, exquisite hydrolat whose beneficial properties are used in cosmetics and hydrolat therapy. This organic hydrolat is produced as a by-product of the steam distillation of Citrus aurantium amara flowers, grown organically without chemical sprays. It is a 100 % natural product rich in natural essential oils, flavonoids and antioxidants that occur naturally in this plant native to the Mediterranean region. Unlike synthetic alternatives, it retains the full profile of bioactive compounds, ensuring greater quality and efficacy in cosmetic formulations. The production process is environmentally friendly, with no added preservatives or chemicals, making it ideal for organic cosmetics certified to strict standards.

NEROLI hydrolat has regenerating properties and stimulates the formation of new cells. It brightens the skin, enhancing its radiance and luminosity. It soothes and refreshes the skin at the same time. It works by moisturising the skin through its natural hydrating ability, restoring the skin barrier through flavonoids that strengthen the lipid layer, and providing antioxidant protection against free radicals. It also has a gentle exfoliating effect by stimulating cell renewal and significantly soothes irritation. In cosmetics, it is recommended at concentrations of 5-20 % in toners, serums or masks for optimal results without the risk of irritation.

It is particularly recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, where it effectively reduces redness and supports elasticity. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its refreshing and soothing properties, which regulate sebum production without drying the skin. For sensitive skin types, it is ideal as a gentle toner after cleansing. A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2015) showed that neroli oil at a concentration of 1 % reduced stress levels by 25 % in women following a hysterectomy over 4 weeks of inhalation, confirming its soothing effects on both the skin and the mind. Further research in the International Journal of Neuroscience (2009) reported that neroli aromatherapy increased parasympathetic nervous system activity by 18 %, promoting relaxation and skin regeneration. It has a beautiful fragrance used in both aromatherapy and perfumery. It is used therapeutically for its calming properties. It is excellent for depression, anxiety, mood swings, fear and shock, and helps combat insomnia.

The earliest records of aloe vera as a medicinal plant date back thousands of years to ancient Egypt. Hippocrates also used aloe vera in his treatments, and Christopher Columbus called it the “doctor in a pot”. Aloe barbadensis is the most precious and sought-after variety of aloe vera among around 300 species of this plant. Cleopatra herself used its beauty benefits to help maintain her beauty and keep her skin and body fresh and full of vitality. Aloe vera is a source of a wide range of vital elements, including vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E), minerals (calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, chlorine, as well as manganese, copper, zinc and chromium), amino acids (aloe vera contains as many as eight essential amino acids), and even enzymes, lectins and saponins – active substances that act against viruses, bacteria, fungi and infections. “Cleansing” lignin allows substances to penetrate deep into the skin. Anthraquinones help relieve pain and combat bacterial growth and viruses. The juice of this plant has adaptogenic properties, meaning that each cell in the human body uses only the substances it currently needs. To preserve these nutritional qualities, found in the gel-like substance inside the aloe vera leaf, the plant must be grown and processed correctly to prevent oxidation, which reduces its beneficial substances. When exposed to oxygen for more than 4 hours, the gel-like substance in the leaf oxidises and loses its value (you may recognise a similar reaction in a freshly cut apple, which quickly turns brown). Aloe must be stabilised. Stabilisation is a patented cold process that ensures the aloe stays just as it would be if you had freshly cut the leaf yourself. This process uses neither heat (stabilisation takes place at around 30 °C) nor chemicals, as these would destroy aloe vera's active components. Aloe vera protects the body from the harmful effects of oxygen free radicals, repairs and regenerates damaged cells and tissue, and can guide immune cells to the site of damage. Aloe vera has powerful detoxifying properties that help the body remove waste materials, toxins and bacteria, including from your digestive system.

Aloe vera juice intensely hydrates the skin thanks to polysaccharides, which form a protective film and lock moisture deep within the skin without leaving a greasy feel. It restores the skin barrier through vitamins and minerals that support cell regeneration and collagen production. As an antioxidant, it protects vitamins C, E and beta-carotene from free radicals, slowing skin ageing. It gently exfoliates thanks to enzymes that remove dead skin cells, and soothes irritation with anti-inflammatory compounds such as acemannan. Studies show that at concentrations above 1 %, it significantly improves hydration and regeneration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for reactive skin after sun exposure, shaving or treatments, where it soothes redness. For acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and cleanses pores without clogging them. For mature skin, it supports elasticity and reduces wrinkles.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2009) showed that aloe vera gel at a concentration of 0,5 % accelerated wound healing by 72 % compared with the control group after 12 days. Another study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014) showed that aloe vera at a concentration of 1 % increased collagen synthesis by 25 % in a culture of human fibroblasts.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

This is a water-soluble derivative of a dicarboxylic acid, in which the active component is linked to the amino acid glycine and neutralised with potassium. It is produced through controlled synthesis to improve the solubility and tolerability of the original acid. The ingredient is suitable for lightweight water-based serums and emulsions, where the poorly soluble original molecule is more difficult to use.

Azeclair PAD helps regulate excess sebum production, supports a more even skin tone and also provides hydration. Its mechanism involves inhibiting the enzyme 5 alpha reductase, regulating pigment production processes and the presence of the glycine component. Compared with conventional azelaic acid, it tends to feel more comfortable on the skin and causes less stinging, although it is not exactly the same substance or a substitute for dermatological treatment.

We recommend it for oily, combination, acne-prone skin and skin with pigmentation, as well as sensitive skin that does not tolerate strong acids well. It is suitable for shine, enlarged pores, post-acne marks and uneven skin tone. In cases of active rosacea or an impaired skin barrier, a new product should be introduced gradually and without other irritating ingredients.

When a 3 per cent aqueous solution was applied twice daily for three weeks, skin lipid levels fell by 29,4 per cent on the forehead, 27,0 per cent on the nose and 31,5 per cent on the chin. Hydration increased by 12,7 per cent on the forehead and 8,2 per cent on the cheek (Cosmetics and Toiletries, 2002). The study was small, involving five volunteers.

In finished products, it is often used at approximately 3 to 10 per cent of the supplier's solution, depending on the active ingredient content. It is suitable for a pH of approximately 5 to 7. Even with good tolerability, the complete formulation must be tested for compatibility, stability and efficacy.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

Niacin, or vitamin B3, belongs to the B vitamin complex. Vitamin B3 is a collective term for nicotinic acid and niacin. It occurs naturally in foods such as meat, fish, nuts and wholegrain products, but cosmetics use a synthetic form or organic extracts from yeast and plants. This water-soluble vitamin is essential for cellular metabolism and the synthesis of the coenzyme NAD, which supports energy processes in skin cells. In cosmetic products, it is added in the stable form of niacinamide, which is readily absorbed into the skin without causing irritation.

It protects the skin and improves its health. It plays a role in cellular metabolism, helping enzymatic processes function properly. Its mechanism of action includes moisturising the skin by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and free fatty acids, thereby restoring the skin barrier. It has powerful antioxidant properties that neutralise free radicals and protect against oxidative stress. It soothes inflammation by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and promotes exfoliation by regulating keratinisation. Recommended concentrations are 2-5 % for hydration and barrier repair, and up to 10 % for pigmentation and acne.

Niacin helps the skin retain water, improves the condition of sensitive skin (including skin with rosacea) and strengthens its defences. It is also excellent for supporting acne treatment, both topically and orally. It is useful even for severe forms of acne. It improves the appearance of ageing skin and brightens the complexion, making it suitable for reducing pigmentation and age spots. It plumps and hydrates the skin and prevents water loss. Its benefits extend well beyond our skin and hair. I recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for rosacea, eczema, hyperpigmentation and anti-ageing care, as it strengthens the barrier without clogging pores.

This vitamin is important for the proper functioning of the whole body, and a deficiency can cause fatigue, digestive problems, mental illness and depression, for example. A clinical study showed that niacinamide at a concentration of 4 % reduced hyperpigmentation by 35-68 % after 4-8 weeks in patients with melasma (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004). Further research confirmed that 4 % niacinamide reduced acne lesions by 52 %, while 2 % niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation by 44 % after 8 weeks (International Journal of Dermatology, 2002). High-dose oral supplementation (1 g daily) reduced acne symptoms by 50 % after 8 weeks (Botanic.sk study).

This water-binding ingredient acts as a moisturiser and skin softener in cosmetics. It helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. Another key benefit of pentylene glycol is that, unlike conventional alcohol, it does not have a drying effect, even at higher concentrations. Pentylene glycol is an excellent aid for macerating herbs. It does not dry the skin like conventional alcohol and, thanks to its properties, extracts both water-soluble and fat-soluble substances from herbs. Pentylene Glycol also helps prevent the growth of microorganisms on the skin. It is water-soluble, acts as a solubiliser and is colourless and odourless. Pentylene glycol is made from sugar cane bagasse and corn cobs and is certified by Ecocert Cosmos and NATRUE. The raw materials used in its production are not derived from GMO sources. This ingredient comes from renewable plant sources: bagasse is a by-product of cane sugar production, while maize provides fermentable starches, ensuring sustainable production without relying on petrochemical derivatives.

Its action is primarily based on its ability to retain moisture: it binds water in the skin and prevents moisture loss, restoring the lipid barrier. It also has antimicrobial properties that inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi, allowing it to act as a gentle preservative. It helps active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin without disrupting its structure. At concentrations of 1 to 5 per cent, it is recommended as a safe humectant and solubiliser; at 3 per cent, it significantly reduces microbial contamination without causing irritation.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, providing effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its non-comedogenic and antimicrobial properties, which help prevent inflammation without clogging pores. It is ideal for sensitive skin, including children's skin, as it contains no harsh preservatives and minimises the risk of irritation.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) showed that pentylene glycol at a concentration of 4 per cent inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 per cent and Candida albicans by 99,8 per cent after 48 hours of exposure, confirming its strong antimicrobial effects while remaining safe for the skin. Further research in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2008) reports that, at a concentration of 2 per cent, it reduces microbial contamination in cosmetic emulsions by 4 log units within 7 days.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

This is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which has long been used in medicine for its ability to influence the plasmin system. In cosmetics, it is used at lower topical concentrations to address uneven skin tone. It is water-soluble, has no pronounced colour and, at the right pH, can be incorporated into serums, emulsions and targeted treatment products.

Tranexamic Acid limits plasmin activation and the subsequent communication between keratinocytes and melanocytes, which increases following UV exposure and inflammation. This may help reduce excess pigment production in melasma and post-inflammatory dark spots. It does not exfoliate or mechanically remove pigment. Results develop gradually and must be supported by daily broad-spectrum sun protection.

We recommend it for skin with pigmentation, including sensitive, acne-prone and mature skin with sun spots, melasma or post-inflammatory marks. Compared with several other acids, it is generally well tolerated, but sensitive skin may experience dryness or stinging. Pregnant people and those with blood clotting disorders should always consult a doctor before medical use, although topical cosmetic doses are different.

A randomised, double-blind study involving 99 patients compared 2 per cent tranexamic acid with 2 per cent niacinamide in a niosomal base, conventional 5 per cent tranexamic acid and 4 per cent hydroquinone. After three months, all groups showed significant reductions in both the melanin index and mMASI, and the tranexamic acid formulations caused less severe adverse reactions (Scientific Reports, 2025).

In cosmetics, it is commonly used at approximately 2 to 5 per cent. Complete solubility, a suitable pH and compatibility with the preservative system are important. Melasma requires long-term use and consistent SPF protection, as pigmentation may return after discontinuing use or following sun exposure.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

This amino sugar molecule occurs naturally in the body and is a building block of several polysaccharides. Cosmetic-grade material is produced by fermentation or controlled synthesis. It dissolves readily in water and is stable in mildly acidic to neutral conditions. In formulations, it is used as a hydrating and brightening ingredient with very good skin tolerance.

N-Acetyl Glucosamine helps reduce excess pigment production by influencing the glycosylation of tyrosinase, an enzyme needed for melanin production. It also supports the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, contributing to a smoother, more hydrated surface. Its effect is gradual and gentle, without typical peeling. It works particularly well with niacinamide, as the two ingredients target pigmentation through different mechanisms.

We recommend it for skin with pigmentation, as well as dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin. It is suitable for sun spots, uneven skin tone and post-acne marks, particularly for people who do not tolerate strong exfoliating acids well. It can also be used on oily skin, as it leaves no oily film and generally does not clog pores.

In an eight-week double-blind study, a 2 per cent concentration of N-acetylglucosamine reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation compared with the vehicle alone. A combination of 2 per cent NAG and 4 per cent niacinamide delivered an even greater improvement in pigmentation spots (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2007). The results support long-term, regular use alongside daily SPF.

It is most commonly used at a concentration of approximately 1 to 4 per cent. The formulation’s pH should be kept in the mildly acidic to neutral range, and compatibility with reducing sugars and high temperatures should be monitored. When addressing pigmentation, broad-spectrum sun protection must be part of the routine.

In a daily routine, it is worth assessing longer-term skin comfort and suppleness in particular, as well as whether the skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the whole formulation, consistent use and gentle cleansing, rather than a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Offers a new approach to corneotherapy (corneotherapy, from the Latin corneum = horny layer, is a new field in cosmetics that focuses specifically on the outermost layer of the skin. Cosmopharmacy is a specialised combination of cosmetology and pharmacy). This active ingredient is specially designed to provide gradual, controlled diffusion of AHA acids. The lamellar gel formulation also prevents potential skin irritation or inflammation. The water-based lamellar gel consists of a biomaterial into which AHA acids are absorbed. This technology allows lower concentrations of AHA acids to be used, with effects comparable to those of conventional AHA acids. This makes it suitable even for sensitive skin or skin that becomes irritated or inflamed when conventional AHA acids are used. Composition: a synergy of alpha-hydroxy acids: 15% glycolic acid, 7% lactic acid and 6% citric acid absorbed into a lamellar biomaterial. IN VIVO tests showed renewal of the skin's horny layer, giving the skin a beautiful, more radiant and velvety appearance. AHA acids weaken the cohesion of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin, made up of dead cells called corneocytes), increasing exfoliation and accelerating cell renewal. Effective exfoliation without potential irritation or inflammation of the corneocytes ensures an even skin tone, reduces hyperpigmentation, softens acne scars and releases sebum from the pores.

The mechanism of action involves gradual exfoliation, in which AHA acids weaken the bonds between corneocytes in the stratum corneum, encouraging the shedding of dead cells and accelerating skin renewal. At the same time, the lamellar gel ensures controlled diffusion, minimises irritation and restores the skin barrier. It provides a moisturising effect thanks to lactic acid, antioxidant protection through citric acid and the soothing properties of the biomaterial. The recommended concentration in the finished product is 1-5% for optimal results without the risk of irritation.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for people with hyperpigmentation, acne scars or an uneven skin tone, for whom conventional AHAs are unsuitable because of irritation. Also suitable for sensitive skin, as lower concentrations achieve comparable effects with less risk.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004) demonstrated that a combination of 8% glycolic acid and 3% lactic acid in a lamellar system reduced the thickness of the stratum corneum by 25% after 4 weeks, with no erythema occurring in 92% of participants with sensitive skin. Another clinical study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that a 5% AHA complex in a biomaterial improved hydration by 40% and reduced hyperpigmentation by 30% over 6 weeks in patients with photoageing.

Alpha-Arbutin is a cosmetic active ingredient used in skincare for dark spots, uneven skin tone and the visible effects of sun exposure. Chemically, it is a hydroquinone glycoside in which a hydroquinone molecule is bound to glucose. This structure influences its properties, stability and how it works in a cosmetic formulation.

Alpha-Arbutin works primarily by influencing the activity of tyrosinase – an enzyme that plays a key role in melanin production. Melanin is the skin's natural pigment, but uneven or increased production can lead to dark spots, post-inflammatory marks and uneven skin tone.

A laboratory study published in 2004 investigated Alpha-Arbutin in cultured pigment cells and a three-dimensional model of human skin. At the concentrations tested, the ingredient reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin production without any demonstrated reduction in cell viability. In the three-dimensional skin model, the amount of melanin decreased to approximately 40 % of the level in the control model. However, these are laboratory findings and cannot automatically be taken to mean the same effect will occur with everyday use of a cosmetic product. 

Clinical data are also available for products in which Alpha-Arbutin was combined with other brightening ingredients and UV protection. In a 90-day study involving 124 women, a routine containing 2 % Alpha-Arbutin, another ingredient targeting pigmentation and a sunscreen was associated with reduced melanin content in dark spots and improved melasma assessment scores. As this was a combined routine without a separate Alpha-Arbutin control group, the results cannot be attributed solely to this one ingredient. 

Alpha-Arbutin is particularly suitable for the long-term care of uneven pigmentation. Results are not immediate, as skincare mainly influences the gradual production of new pigment. Daily use of broad-spectrum SPF protection is an essential part of the routine. Without it, UV exposure can repeatedly stimulate melanin production and reduce the results of brightening skincare.

Meta description:
Alpha-Arbutin helps regulate melanin production, even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and post-inflammatory marks.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is a gentle emulsifying ingredient and cleansing agent often used in cosmetics and personal care products, particularly skincare. It is an ester of polyglycerol and capric acid, derived from fatty acids. Its natural origin and mildness make it popular in product ranges for sensitive skin and eco-friendly cosmetics. This ingredient is obtained from plant oils, such as coconut or palm oil, by esterifying polyglycerol-4 with capric acid, ensuring its entirely natural character without synthetic chemicals. In organic cosmetics, it is valued as a 100 % natural, non-ionic surfactant that is biodegradable and environmentally friendly, making it ideal for certified organic products.

It works primarily through its gentle cleansing action, dissolving oils, make-up and impurities without disrupting the skin barrier, helping to hydrate the skin and prevent tightness. As a non-ionic emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions in products, combining water and oils into uniform textures, typically at concentrations of 1-5 % in cleansers and 2-10 % in emulsions. It also soothes the skin by leaving its natural lipids intact, supports hydration and helps to restore the barrier by minimising transepidermal water loss (TEWL). These properties were confirmed in a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018), in which a concentration of 3 % Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in micellar water reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of use in participants with sensitive skin, compared with a placebo.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, dehydrated and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin, where gentle cleansing without drying is essential. It is ideal for people with eczema or rosacea, as it reduces the risk of irritation. Avoid use only on extremely sensitive skin with open wounds.

It is used in micellar waters, cleansing milks, make-up-removing oils and hydrating gels, where it provides a smooth texture and effectively removes impurities while retaining moisture. Its environmentally friendly biodegradability makes it a popular choice in natural cosmetics, where it contributes to sustainable skincare without compromising on effectiveness.

Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

Origin and key information:

This active ingredient is a 100 per cent natural multi-complex made up of fermented polysaccharides. It is produced through a biotechnological process in which polysaccharides are obtained from plant-derived sorbitol and peptone through fermentation. Under natural cosmetics standards, biotechnological processes such as microbial fermentation are considered acceptable methods for producing natural cosmetic raw materials. This makes it a highly pure and consistent natural extract, free from synthetic ingredients and genetically modified raw materials. Thanks to the macromolecular structure of its polysaccharides, it is a powerful natural moisturising agent with exceptional potential for skin care.

Function and mechanism of action:

This ingredient acts primarily as an intensive moisturising agent with immediate and long-lasting effects. Thanks to its complex polysaccharide structure, it forms a fine, impermeable film on the skin's surface, effectively protecting it from environmental influences and preventing moisture loss. It also actively restores the skin's natural moisture barrier. Its structure allows extracellular enzymes to break it down relatively easily into simpler sugars with strong moisturising properties, while it acts as a natural water-binding agent. The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing irritation and easing allergic reactions. It reduces inflammatory processes in the skin and provides a toning effect. It does not leave a shiny or greasy finish, making it suitable for problem skin too.

Clinical results and statistics:

Clinical testing has confirmed the exceptional effectiveness of this ingredient. One hour after application, skin hydration increases by 44 per cent. Three hours after application, the increase in hydration reaches 79 per cent, demonstrating a long-lasting and cumulative moisturising effect. This significant hydration is attributed to the action of skin enzymes, which accelerate the penetration of active ingredients deeper into the dermis.

Recommended skin types:

This ingredient is suitable for all skin types. It is particularly recommended for sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and supports regeneration. Its soothing effect also makes it ideal for irritated and reactive skin. It leaves the skin soft, smooth and beautifully silky, enhancing its feeling of comfort. As it leaves no stickiness or greasy shine, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. A distinctive feature of this ingredient is that it leaves no unwanted residue, keeping the skin feeling fresh and nourished.

Certification and environmental value:

This natural multi-complex is certified to prestigious international standards for natural and organic cosmetics. COSMOS Organic and ECOCERT certification guarantees that the ingredient meets the strictest requirements for natural origin and environmental sustainability. Under COSMOS certification standards, natural cosmetics must be made only from natural raw materials or materials obtained through biotechnological processes, a requirement this ingredient fully meets.

Butyl oleate is a gentle, oily substance used in cosmetics as a softening emollient. It occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats, but in commercial cosmetics it is usually produced synthetically by esterifying oleic acid with butanol. It is colourless, has no strong odour and spreads easily on the skin, helping to keep it soft and smooth.

Butyl oleate works by significantly moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, forming a thin lipid film on the skin's surface that prevents water loss. It is not an active ingredient with exfoliating or antioxidant effects, but rather a supporting ingredient that improves skin comfort and softens its texture. In cosmetic formulations, it is often combined with other oils or emulsifiers to achieve the ideal feel on the skin.

Butyl oleate is particularly suitable for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin that needs extra nourishment and help locking in moisture. It is also recommended for people with mature skin, where it helps smooth fine lines and reduce feelings of tightness. It may be too oily for oily or acne-prone skin, so it is used with caution or at lower concentrations in these cases.

A study reports that oil ester-based emollients, such as butyl oleate, significantly reduce skin sensitivity after mask removal and improve its elasticity. An experimental test with oleic acid-based emollients confirmed that the skin stays hydrated for longer and is less prone to irritation (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019). Although this study does not directly examine butyl oleate, its chemical structure as an ester of oleic acid supports similar effects on the skin barrier.

These are microscopic, needle-like structures obtained from the silica skeletons of freshwater or marine sponges, then hydrolysed and purified. In cosmetics, they act as a physical delivery system that temporarily lodges in the outermost layers of the skin during massage. Rather than a soluble active ingredient, this is a mechanical technology that increases contact with and penetration of other ingredients.

Spicules create very fine microchannels and support surface renewal. This can increase the penetration of hydrating, brightening or anti-acne ingredients. Application often causes a prickling sensation that can last for several hours. Greater intensity is not automatically better. An excessive dose, use alongside acids or retinoids, or application to skin with a compromised barrier can lead to redness, inflammation and increased sensitivity.

They are best suited to more resilient, oily, thickened or uneven skin, and to experienced users of intensive skincare. We do not recommend them for rosacea, eczema, actively inflamed acne, open wounds or immediately after aesthetic procedures. Those with sensitive skin should choose a very low intensity or avoid this technology.

In a study using spicules from the Haliclona sponge, penetration of the antimicrobial peptide tested into the skin increased to 40,9 plus or minus 5,9 per cent, which was 6,1 times higher than with the peptide alone (Pharmaceutics, 2024). The result demonstrates a strong delivery effect, but also highlights the need for very careful formulation.

The concentration depends on size, purity and the manufacturer's recommendations. The product is applied with gentle massage and should not be layered with other irritating active ingredients. Sun protection is essential after use. The manufacturer must verify microbiological purity, particle size and the tolerability of the finished product.

With technologically advanced delivery and stimulation systems, the quality of the finished product matters more than an impressive ingredient name. The effect depends on the dose, how the ingredient is incorporated, the packaging and stability throughout the product's shelf life. Those with sensitive skin should proceed cautiously and try a new product on its own. Manufacturers should base their claims on testing of the finished formulation, not solely on data from the raw material supplier.

This water-soluble polymer is made by modifying natural cellulose. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, stabiliser and gelling agent. It has no pronounced colour or scent and allows the creation of clear to slightly opalescent serums. It is a functional ingredient in the formula, not an active botanical ingredient with a direct rejuvenating effect.

Hydroxyethylcellulose increases the viscosity of the water phase, keeps insoluble particles evenly dispersed and makes the product easier to dispense. It forms a fine film on the skin, which can reduce the feeling of roughness and help distribute hydrating or exfoliating active ingredients evenly. On its own, it does not replenish ceramides or stimulate collagen. At the right concentration, it gives the product a smooth glide, but too much can cause stringiness, stickiness or pilling.

In finished products, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as it is a non-ionic and generally well-tolerated polymer. It is useful in acid-based serums, hydrating gels, cleansers and scalp products. Suitability for a particular skin type always depends on the active ingredients and the preservative system.

Researchers used hydroxyethylcellulose as the base for a dermal hydrogel to deliver khellin and assessed its permeation and acute toxicity. The gel provided a stable carrier medium and enabled controlled delivery through the skin (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021). The study demonstrates the polymer's role as a safe carrier, not a therapeutic effect of its own.

The typical concentration is approximately 0,1 to 1,5 per cent. The powder should be dispersed slowly in water and allowed to hydrate fully to prevent lumps. The manufacturer must monitor viscosity at the target pH and compatibility with electrolytes, surfactants and high levels of active ingredients.

For the user, its benefits are mainly apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves when SPF or make-up is applied afterwards. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

Ectoin® natural comes from a natural source – it is a bioactive molecule isolated from extremophilic microorganisms that occur naturally in hypersaline environments. This ingredient is the result of an evolutionary adaptation that allows organisms to protect their cells against extreme conditions. Ectoin belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes – natural osmoprotectants that enable cells to survive in harsh environments. Its natural origin and complex mechanism of action place it among the most advanced bioactive ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This ingredient works in several ways to restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Ectoin acts as a powerful water-binding agent, retaining water deep within the skin and increasing hydration by up to 200 percent compared with untreated skin. It also acts as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and protecting cells from damage caused by UV radiation, blue light and environmental pollution. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces inflammation and supports the repair of a damaged skin barrier, helping to soothe irritation and sensitivity.

Ectoin® natural is ideally suited to sensitive, dehydrated, stressed and mature skin. It is recommended for people with dry, irritated areas, as well as those whose skin is affected by inflammatory conditions. It also brings relief to skin exposed to intense sunlight or environmental stress. Its gentle nature means it can also be used on oily and acne-prone skin without the risk of further irritation.

Clinical studies confirm its significant effects: during a 12-day trial, skin hydration increased by up to 200 percent, and this level of hydration was maintained for a further 7 days after application stopped. After 10 days of regular use, the increased hydration level remained almost constant until day 19 of the study, highlighting its long-lasting moisturising effect.

Allantoin is a natural metabolite found in a variety of plants, including horse chestnut, comfrey, maple and wheat germ. In the cosmetics industry, it is extracted from organically grown plants, ensuring its natural and sustainable origin. This active ingredient is recognised worldwide for its multifunctional skincare properties.

Allantoin works primarily by providing intensive hydration and restoring the skin's natural barrier. It acts as a proven humectant, helping to retain moisture in the deeper layers of the skin. It also has soothing properties and helps reduce redness and irritation. Allantoin stimulates skin tissue regeneration and supports collagen synthesis, helping to renew the skin and minimise visible imperfections. At concentrations of 0,1 to 0,5 %, it has mild keratolytic effects, gently removing dead skin cells without harsh action. It also provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and UV radiation.

Allantoin is an ideal choice particularly for sensitive and irritated skin, including skin prone to eczema and atopic dermatitis. It also works exceptionally well on dry, dehydrated and mature skin in need of intensive regeneration and renewal. Its gentle action makes it safe even for the skin of newborns and young children. It is also recommended for skin with concerns such as acne or psoriasis, as its soothing and healing effects do not cause irritation. It shows no signs of toxicity or potential to cause allergic reactions.

Scientific research confirms allantoin's effectiveness in practice. According to dermatological and cosmetic studies, allantoin at concentrations of 0,2 to 0,5 %, combined with other ingredients, reduces skin irritation and supports regeneration within two to four weeks of regular use. Its keratoplastic and collagen-stimulating properties have long been documented in scientific literature, making it one of the most trusted ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This laboratory-produced phenolic molecule is a targeted inhibitor of the enzyme tyrosinase. It is used in cosmetics at low concentrations, as it is effective even at tenths of a per cent. It is sensitive to oxidation and requires a suitable solvent system, protection from light and a carefully adjusted pH.

4-Butylresorcinol blocks tyrosinase and the protein TRP-1, two important components of melanin production. It therefore helps reduce the intensity of melasma, sun spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It does not remove pigment immediately or act as a bleaching pigment. Visible changes appear gradually as the epidermis renews itself. Daily protection against both UVA and UVB radiation is essential for lasting results.

It is particularly beneficial for pigmented, mature and acne-prone skin with post-inflammatory marks. It is also suitable for people looking for a targeted alternative to hydroquinone. Those with sensitive or reactive skin should introduce it gradually, as higher doses or combinations with acids may cause stinging, redness or a contact reaction.

In a randomised, double-blind study, a 0,1 per cent cream was applied to one half of the face in people with melasma. After four weeks, the melanin index on the treated side decreased significantly, and the product was well tolerated (Annals of Dermatology, 2010). Further clinical data showed a good response to a 0,3 per cent serum used for 18 to 24 weeks.

Typical cosmetic concentrations are approximately 0,1 to 0,3 per cent. The raw ingredient needs a suitable solvent system and antioxidants, as it may crystallise or change colour. Opaque packaging, stability testing and clear instructions on using SPF alongside it are recommended.

When using targeted active skincare, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on whether the results are good and lasting.

Description: This ingredient is a lightweight, plant-derived ester obtained from coconut oil and fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is used as a gentle, easily spreadable alternative to heavier silicones and rich oils. It absorbs very well, leaves no greasy film and gives the skin a silky, dry and pleasantly soft feel. It is particularly popular in high-quality, naturally focused cosmetics because it improves the sensory feel of the product, softens the skin's surface and feels comfortable even with daily use. It is also biodegradable and suitable for modern formulations designed to be light, elegant and non-sticky.

Function: It acts primarily as an emollient and softening ingredient, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and support a smoother, more supple appearance. It forms a light protective film on the surface, indirectly helping dry and dehydrated skin feel more comfortable. It greatly improves the spreadability of creams, body lotions, oils and balms, while also helping to dissolve lipophilic active ingredients, such as plant extracts or essential oils. It is typically used in formulations at concentrations of approximately 1 to 20 %, depending on the desired skin feel and product type.

Recommendations: It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs softening without a heavy, greasy feel. It is also a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin when a lightweight alternative to rich oils or silicones is needed. People who prefer fast absorption, a dry finish and a pleasant, non-sticky feel may also appreciate it. It is suitable for day creams, cleansing oils, body care products, lip balms, hair serums and after-sun products.

Citations, specific figures and statistics: In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, this ester was tested in a human repeat insult patch test on 50 volunteers at a concentration of 100 %; no sensitisation or clinically significant skin irritation was observed. These results support its use in products for sensitive skin and explain why it is often used as a very well-tolerated alternative to heavier emollients.

This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.

In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.

It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.

A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.

During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.

dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.

Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.

Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is an inorganic chemical compound produced synthetically through the electrolysis of sodium chloride. Today, it is manufactured using modern brine electrolysis, in which it is formed as a by-product of chlorine production. This strongly alkaline compound has the formula NaOH and consists of sodium ions and hydroxide anions, which are responsible for its pronounced alkaline properties.

In cosmetics, sodium hydroxide acts primarily as a pH regulator and buffering agent. Its main role is to neutralise excess acidity in products, ensuring that the finished product is balanced and safe for the skin. In chemical peels and exfoliating products, it helps break down the outer layers of the skin, allowing dead skin cells to be removed. Sodium hydroxide is also used in soap-making, where it combines with vegetable oils and fats to form the basis of bar soaps through a process called saponification. In cosmetics, it is used at very low concentrations – approximately 2 % in hair relaxers, 4,5 % in professional hair relaxers and up to pH 12,7 in hair removal products.

Sodium hydroxide is particularly recommended in products designed to care for sensitive and mature skin, where precise pH adjustment is important. It is found in shampoos, shower gels, creams, soaps and even hair removal products. People with very sensitive skin, eczema or a compromised skin barrier are advised to consult a dermatologist before use, as sodium hydroxide in its pure form is a highly corrosive substance that causes severe burns.

Most high-quality cosmetic products containing sodium hydroxide are formulated within a safe pH range of 4,5 to 5,5, which corresponds to the natural pH of human skin. These products are usually well tolerated by the skin, provided the concentration is appropriate and they are used correctly according to the instructions. In the event of a chemical burn, the affected area should be rinsed immediately with cold water and neutralised with diluted vinegar or citric acid.

Bisabolol is a natural, colourless, oily liquid extracted from the essential oil of German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita). It is a terpenoid found naturally in several plants, although chamomile is its primary source. Unlike whole chamomile extracts, bisabolol is a highly purified active substance, allowing it to deliver consistent, measurable biological activity. This natural ingredient is an ideal alternative to traditional extracts, as it retains the therapeutic properties of chamomile with minimal risk of allergic reactions. In natural cosmetics, bisabolol is used as an effective, safe ingredient suitable for all skin types.

Bisabolol acts on the skin in several ways. Its powerful anti-inflammatory properties inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators, such as leukotrienes and interleukin-1, reducing redness and irritation. As a natural antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals and slows photoageing. It also stimulates skin renewal and accelerates repair processes, strengthening the skin barrier. Bisabolol improves the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin thanks to its tenfold higher permeability compared with conventional ingredients. It acts as a conditioner on hair fibres, softening and smoothing them while promoting hair growth.

Bisabolol is an ideal solution for sensitive, dry, dehydrated, irritated and flaky skin. Its antimicrobial properties also make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, where it helps inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria. It is also recommended for mature skin showing signs of photoageing. As it is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin, it is suitable even for extremely sensitive skin types. It is used in restorative after-sun gels and products designed to soothe sunburn.

Clinical research has demonstrated the high efficacy of bisabolol: a concentration of just 1 % can reduce skin irritation by 54 %. Combined with ceramide, it accelerates epidermal cell regeneration and supports wound healing. It works synergistically with curcumin and silymarin to enhance its anti-inflammatory effect, while combining it with hyaluronic acid and panthenol enhances its hydrating and restorative effects. Recommended concentrations in skincare products range from 0,2 % to 1 %, with higher concentrations above 0,5 % potentially providing an additional brightening effect.