Grooming Oil Elixir - Beard & Skin

This is a lightweight, plant-derived saturated hydrocarbon, most commonly produced by fermenting sugars followed by hydrogenation. It has a shorter carbon chain than squalane, so it spreads more quickly and leaves a drier feel. In naturally oriented formulations, it is used as an alternative to volatile silicones and lightweight petrochemical emollients.

Hemisqualane reduces friction, smooths the surface of the skin and hair, and helps distribute pigments and oil-soluble active ingredients evenly. It forms a very thin emollient film that reduces the feeling of dryness without leaving a greasy layer. It is neither a strong occlusive nor a humectant, so for dry skin it is combined with glycerine, ceramides and richer lipids.

It is suitable for all skin types, particularly oily, combination and acne-prone skin that cannot tolerate heavy oils. It is also appreciated by those who want a dry, silky finish under make-up. For very dry skin or a compromised skin barrier, it may not provide sufficient protection on its own and should be part of a comprehensive emollient blend.

A comparative study of emollients in dermatological creams showed that the chemical structure of alkanes significantly affects spreadability, viscosity, sensory properties and the potential performance of an emulsion (International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 2024). The study supports the role of lightweight alkanes in formulation, but does not demonstrate an independent clinical effect of hemisqualane specifically.

It is used at concentrations of approximately 1 to 60 per cent, depending on the product type, from a lightweight cream to an oil serum. It is resistant to oxidation and dissolves oil-soluble ingredients well. At high concentrations, it may reduce viscosity or speed up drying, so emulsifiers and thickeners need to be adjusted.

When using oils in skincare, the amount matters. A few drops on slightly damp skin usually feel more comfortable than a thick layer on completely dry skin. Oil provides the emollient part of a skincare routine, but does not supply water itself, so it is often combined with a hydrating serum. Oxygen, light and heat affect stability, making suitable packaging an essential part of product quality. A well-chosen antioxidant also helps protect against oxidation.

This is a natural emollient derived from sugar beet and coconut. It is of 100% natural origin and is 100% biodegradable. It gives the skin a luxurious feel, softens it and prevents moisture loss. It gives products a lightweight, non-greasy feel. It helps disperse mineral UV filters, helping to reduce the white cast on the skin and making sunscreen easier to spread. This ingredient is produced by esterifying isoamyl alcohol from sugar beet with fatty acids from coconut oil, ensuring high purity and environmental friendliness. Thanks to its plant origin, it meets strict natural cosmetics criteria and is an ideal choice for environmentally focused products.

It works primarily by moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, strengthening the skin’s lipid layer and preventing transepidermal water loss. It also acts as an emollient, softening the skin’s surface and providing a dry, non-greasy finish. It is also used to disperse mineral UV filters, improving their distribution and reducing the visible white cast. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 1-10 %, depending on the desired viscosity and type of emulsion, with lower concentrations (1-3 %) sufficient for lightweight creams and higher concentrations (5-10 %) for sunscreens.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin, where it effectively prevents moisture loss and provides comfort without feeling heavy. Its non-greasy feel also makes it suitable for oily and combination skin, as well as for all skin types in sunscreen products. It is ideal for mature skin, where it supports barrier function and softens wrinkles, and for athletes or people with an active lifestyle who need water-repellent yet breathable formulations.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that Isoamyl Laurate at a concentration of 5 % in emulsions with mineral UV filters reduced the visibility of the white cast by 68 % and improved spreadability by 45 % compared with standard emulsifiers. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that this emollient increases skin hydration by 25 % at 4 hours after application compared with synthetic alternatives, confirming its effectiveness in restoring the lipid barrier.

Description: This ingredient is a lightweight, plant-derived ester obtained from coconut oil and fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is used as a gentle, easily spreadable alternative to heavier silicones and rich oils. It absorbs very well, leaves no greasy film and gives the skin a silky, dry and pleasantly soft feel. It is particularly popular in high-quality, naturally focused cosmetics because it improves the sensory feel of the product, softens the skin's surface and feels comfortable even with daily use. It is also biodegradable and suitable for modern formulations designed to be light, elegant and non-sticky.

Function: It acts primarily as an emollient and softening ingredient, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and support a smoother, more supple appearance. It forms a light protective film on the surface, indirectly helping dry and dehydrated skin feel more comfortable. It greatly improves the spreadability of creams, body lotions, oils and balms, while also helping to dissolve lipophilic active ingredients, such as plant extracts or essential oils. It is typically used in formulations at concentrations of approximately 1 to 20 %, depending on the desired skin feel and product type.

Recommendations: It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs softening without a heavy, greasy feel. It is also a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin when a lightweight alternative to rich oils or silicones is needed. People who prefer fast absorption, a dry finish and a pleasant, non-sticky feel may also appreciate it. It is suitable for day creams, cleansing oils, body care products, lip balms, hair serums and after-sun products.

Citations, specific figures and statistics: In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, this ester was tested in a human repeat insult patch test on 50 volunteers at a concentration of 100 %; no sensitisation or clinically significant skin irritation was observed. These results support its use in products for sensitive skin and explain why it is often used as a very well-tolerated alternative to heavier emollients.

Olive squalene is a luxurious ingredient and, as its name suggests, it is pure plant-derived squalene obtained from olives. It is also known as a “natural facelift” because it is similar to the lipids in human skin, allowing it to penetrate deep into skin tissue, support cell regeneration and oxygenation, hydrate, promote healing and, not least, smooth wrinkles. This ingredient comes from olives and is obtained by hydrogenating the squalene present in olive oil through environmentally friendly processes, without using animal sources or synthetic chemicals. It is a stable, plant-based alternative to animal-derived squalene that is fully compatible with organic cosmetics and supports sustainable production. Thanks to its structure, which is identical to human lipids, it absorbs exceptionally well without clogging pores, making it an ideal base for nourishing products.

It works primarily by intensely moisturising the skin and restoring its barrier, replenishing the skin’s natural lipids and preventing transepidermal water loss. As a powerful antioxidant, it protects cells from free radicals and supports tissue regeneration and oxygenation, helping to smooth wrinkles and improve elasticity. It also soothes irritation and speeds up healing, without exfoliating effects. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 5-20 %, with 10 % significantly increasing hydration without leaving a greasy film.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively combats loss of elasticity and wrinkles. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it is non-comedogenic and regulates the sebaceous glands without clogging pores. Thanks to its hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for all age groups, including children and pregnant women. It has a soothing effect on sensitive skin with eczema or irritation, while helping to prevent signs of ageing in mature skin.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that olive squalene at a concentration of 10 % increased skin hydration by 45 % and improved skin barrier recovery by 30 % after 4 weeks of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that applying 5 % olive-derived squalene reduced lipid peroxidation in the skin by 25 % and improved elasticity by 20 % over 8 weeks, confirming its antioxidant and regenerative effects.

Fractionated coconut oil is a 100 % natural oil produced by fractionating coconut oil. This process separates the oil into individual types of fatty acids. It remains liquid and is colourless and odourless. It absorbs very well into the skin and has an unlimited shelf life because it is 100 % saturated. It is a ‘dry’ oil, rich in fatty acids and moisturising components. The fractionation process removes longer-chain fatty acids, such as lauric acid, creating a lightweight blend of medium-chain fatty acids, mainly caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). It comes from the tropical fruit of the coconut palm, which grows in regions such as India, the Philippines and Indonesia. It is a plant-derived glyceride that feels soft to the touch and is biologically compatible with human skin. Unlike raw coconut oil, which solidifies at lower temperatures, fractionated coconut oil stays liquid even in the cold, making it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. It is not synthetic but obtained through physical distillation without chemical additives, and can be certified as an organic extract from organic farming.

A plant-derived glyceride with a very soft feel. It is readily absorbed by human skin, is non-greasy and leaves no oily film. It acts as an emollient, moisturising the skin by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring the lipid barrier. It softens, smooths and conditions the skin. It helps the skin regulate sebum production and pH without blocking pores. The oil improves the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, such as essential oils or herbal ingredients. It acts as a solvent for oil-soluble active ingredients (maceration). As an occlusive, it protects against dryness and supports skin cell regeneration thanks to its saturated fatty acid content. At concentrations of 5-20 % in emulsions, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity without being comedogenic (no risk of clogging pores).

Recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it provides effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for normal to combination skin, as it regulates sebum and leaves no film. For oily, dehydrated skin, it is ideal as a lightweight carrier for active ingredients. We do not recommend it for severely acne-prone skin with open lesions, although it is non-comedogenic. Its gentle texture makes it excellent for all ages, especially children, and for atopic skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride at a concentration of 10 % in a moisturising cream reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in subjects with dry skin. Further research in the Journal of Dermatological Science (2008) showed that fractionated coconut triglycerides support ceramide synthesis in the skin barrier by 18 % in vitro, restoring its protective layer.

This is a blend of five plant oils processed through yeast fermentation. It is based on argan, camellia, tea seed, sunflower and sweet almond oils. The biotechnological process increases the proportion of free fatty acids and changes the sensory properties so that the oil spreads more easily along the hair fibre without leaving an overly heavy coating.

Fermented hair oil coats damaged areas of the cuticle, reduces friction and helps hair look smoother, shinier and less frizzy. The lipids limit excessive moisture loss and improve the elasticity of dry lengths. However, they do not permanently repair the biologically dead hair fibre. The effect is cosmetic and protective, so it is most noticeable as improved slip, easier detangling and less breakage from mechanical stress.

This ingredient is primarily intended for dry, porous, curly, colour-treated and heat-stressed hair. In small amounts, it may also suit fine hair if applied only to the lengths. It should be used with care on an oily scalp. Anyone allergic to almonds or other ingredients in the blend should carry out a patch test.

Supplier testing of Fermentoil Hair Complex reports an increase in hair fibre tensile strength of approximately 24,3 per cent and improvements in texture, shine and frizz control (Fermentoil Hair Complex Technical Study). As these are technical data for the raw ingredient, the performance of the final shampoo, mask or serum must be confirmed by testing the finished formula.

It is used in conditioners, masks, leave-in serums and oils, usually at concentrations of approximately 0,5 to 10 per cent. It is added at a lower temperature and protected from oxidation. Higher concentrations can weigh down fine hair, so a balance with lightweight emollients is important.

Its effects on hair are assessed mainly through ease of detangling, shine, frizz and how the ends feel. A small amount is applied to the lengths, rather than automatically to the roots. Fine hair needs a smaller amount, while dry and curly hair can tolerate more. Results also depend on hair porosity, the shampoo used and damage caused by heat or colouring.

This is a synthetically produced vitamin C derivative created by esterifying ascorbic acid with isopalmitic acid. Unlike water-soluble ascorbic acid, it is oil-soluble and takes the form of a colourless to pale yellow oily liquid with no noticeable odour. It is highly stable against oxidation, heat and UV radiation, making it ideal for long-lasting cosmetic formulations. Enzymes in the skin convert it into active ascorbic acid, which acts in the deeper layers. It is used in anti-ageing serums, creams, sunscreens and skin-brightening products, where it provides better penetration and lasting efficacy compared with unstable forms of vitamin C.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative known for its excellent skin-lightening, antioxidant and collagen-stimulating effects. Compared with other ascorbic acid derivatives, it stands out for its greater stability, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic products designed to improve the skin's appearance. Thanks to its oil solubility, it readily penetrates the deeper layers of the skin, increasing its efficacy. Its stability ensures long-term effectiveness in cosmetic formulations, providing lasting benefits for skin health and appearance. Its mechanism of action includes inhibiting melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase, neutralising free radicals as an antioxidant, stimulating collagen synthesis and providing anti-inflammatory effects that reduce redness. The recommended concentration is 0,5 to 3 %, at which it achieves full efficacy without irritation.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is recommended for sensitive skin because it is less irritating than ascorbic acid, for acne-prone skin for its anti-inflammatory properties, for mature skin for its anti-ageing effects, and for skin with pigmentation concerns for its brightening action. For dry and dehydrated skin, its oil base helps protect the skin barrier and support hydration.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed that ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate at a concentration of 1 % inhibited melanin synthesis by 80 % in melanocyte cell cultures and increased collagen expression by 50 % in fibroblasts after 72 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2008). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science demonstrated that applying a 3 % solution reduced visible pigmentation spots by 25 % after 4 weeks in participants with hyperpigmentation (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012). These data confirm its efficacy at low concentrations without toxicity or allergenic potential.

Description

This natural oil is extracted from oat kernels (Avena sativa) and is a bioactive ingredient rich in essential plant-derived lipids. Its distinctive composition closely resembles the natural lipids in human skin. The oil contains a high concentration of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that is a key component of the skin's moisture barrier. It is also a source of powerful antioxidants, including vitamin E in the form of tocopherols and tocotrienols, which protect the skin's lipids from deterioration caused by oxidative stress. The ingredient has a low viscosity, allowing it to absorb quickly without leaving a greasy film on the skin's surface.

Function

Oat lipid oil works in several ways. Primarily, it moisturises the skin and restores its natural lipid barrier thanks to its high linoleic acid content, which is essential for retaining water in the epidermis. Another important benefit is antioxidant protection: vitamin E and other antioxidants neutralise free radicals that cause premature skin ageing and damage. The oil also supports the skin's own production of ceramides, natural lipids that are essential for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. Thanks to its regenerating properties and ready absorption, it helps repair the skin without leaving it feeling greasy.

Recommendations

Oat lipid oil is ideally suited to dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin. It is particularly recommended for skin with a compromised barrier that needs intensive regeneration and care. It is also recommended for skin affected by atopic dermatitis or sensitive to external factors. It is suitable for mature skin too, helping to reduce the signs of ageing and restore elasticity. Its natural origin and high tolerability make it a safe choice even for very sensitive and reactive skin types.

Scientific evidence

The effectiveness of linoleic acid in restoring the skin barrier has long been documented in scientific literature. Studies confirm that the linoleic acid in oat oil significantly improves cohesion in the stratum corneum and helps the skin retain moisture by reducing transepidermal water loss. As an antioxidant, vitamin E reduces oxidative stress and supports the skin's natural regeneration processes at a cellular level.

This plant-derived phenolic molecule is extracted from the seeds and leaves of a plant traditionally used in Ayurveda and Chinese medicine. Chemically, it is not a retinoid, although it affects several similar gene pathways. It is oil-soluble, sensitive to light and oxidation, and used in cosmetics at low concentrations in serums and emulsions.

Bakuchiol supports collagen production, helps soften wrinkles, evens out skin tone and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Unlike retinol, it does not bind to retinoid receptors in the same way and usually causes less flaking and burning. However, this does not automatically make it risk-free. Its plant origin does not rule out an allergic reaction, and its effectiveness depends on its concentration, stability and consistent use.

We recommend it for mature, pigmented, sensitive and acne-prone skin, especially if retinoids cause significant irritation. It is also suitable for the first signs of wrinkles and loss of elasticity. For very reactive skin, it is sensible to start a few times a week. Anyone who is pregnant should consult their doctor about the safety of a specific product, even though bakuchiol is not a retinoid.

A randomised, double-blind study involving 44 participants compared 0,5 per cent bakuchiol applied twice daily with 0,5 per cent retinol applied once daily over 12 weeks. Both groups achieved comparable improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation, while bakuchiol caused less flaking and stinging (British Journal of Dermatology, 2019).

It is most commonly used at concentrations of around 0,5 to 1 per cent. It is added to the oil phase or cool-down phase and protected from light with opaque packaging. It combines well with niacinamide, peptides and antioxidants. On sensitive skin, it should not be layered with several strong exfoliants from the outset.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of consistent use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on how good and lasting the results will be.

Bisabolol is a natural, colourless, oily liquid extracted from the essential oil of German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita). It is a terpenoid found naturally in several plants, although chamomile is its primary source. Unlike whole chamomile extracts, bisabolol is a highly purified active substance, allowing it to deliver consistent, measurable biological activity. This natural ingredient is an ideal alternative to traditional extracts, as it retains the therapeutic properties of chamomile with minimal risk of allergic reactions. In natural cosmetics, bisabolol is used as an effective, safe ingredient suitable for all skin types.

Bisabolol acts on the skin in several ways. Its powerful anti-inflammatory properties inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators, such as leukotrienes and interleukin-1, reducing redness and irritation. As a natural antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals and slows photoageing. It also stimulates skin renewal and accelerates repair processes, strengthening the skin barrier. Bisabolol improves the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin thanks to its tenfold higher permeability compared with conventional ingredients. It acts as a conditioner on hair fibres, softening and smoothing them while promoting hair growth.

Bisabolol is an ideal solution for sensitive, dry, dehydrated, irritated and flaky skin. Its antimicrobial properties also make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, where it helps inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria. It is also recommended for mature skin showing signs of photoageing. As it is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin, it is suitable even for extremely sensitive skin types. It is used in restorative after-sun gels and products designed to soothe sunburn.

Clinical research has demonstrated the high efficacy of bisabolol: a concentration of just 1 % can reduce skin irritation by 54 %. Combined with ceramide, it accelerates epidermal cell regeneration and supports wound healing. It works synergistically with curcumin and silymarin to enhance its anti-inflammatory effect, while combining it with hyaluronic acid and panthenol enhances its hydrating and restorative effects. Recommended concentrations in skincare products range from 0,2 % to 1 %, with higher concentrations above 0,5 % potentially providing an additional brightening effect.

100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.

It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.

A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.

It is obtained by steam distillation from the bark of the reddish-brown wood of the Atlas cedar – a majestic evergreen conifer that grows to a height of 40 – 50 metres. Its name comes from a Semitic root meaning “strength” or “power”, an apt description of this imposing tree. It grows mainly in the mountainous regions of North Africa, such as the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, where it adapts to the harsh conditions of a dry climate and poor soils. This **organic extract** is obtained exclusively from natural sources without synthetic intervention, preserving its full range of active compounds, including sesquiterpenes and monoterpenes, which contribute to its characteristic properties. It has a distinctive woody scent with a subtle camphor note. Its warm, balsamic aroma helps us draw on strength and wisdom. In cosmetics, it is used as a concentrated essential oil that requires careful dosing due to its high potency.

Cedar essential oil is valued for its **soothing, cleansing and antiseptic properties**, which help strengthen the skin overall. It works through its **antibacterial and antifungal action**, which eliminates acne-causing pathogens, as well as its **astringent effect**, which tightens pores and regulates sebum production. It **soothes irritation**, reduces inflammation and supports skin barrier regeneration by stimulating collagen production and improving microcirculation. It also has **antioxidant properties** thanks to its polyphenol content, which protects against free radicals. In cosmetics, concentrations of 0,5 – 2 % in emulsions or 0,1 – 0,5 % in hydrosols are recommended for optimal results without irritation.

It is particularly recommended for **oily, blemish-prone and acne-prone skin**, where it effectively tackles spots and inflammation. It is also ideal for **sensitive and irritated skin** after shaving or hair removal, as well as for **mature skin** showing signs of sagging, where it tones and firms the muscles. Suitable for men and women prone to ingrown hairs, or for dehydrated skin in need of deep cleansing. It is not recommended for very dry skin without moisturisers.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014) showed that **Cedrus atlantica oil at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Propionibacterium acnes by 68 % in vitro**, confirming its effectiveness against acne. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2009) reports that **applying a 2 % solution to the skin reduces sebum production by 25 % after 4 weeks** in individuals with oily skin. These data support its clinical use in dermatology.

Description Lemongrass essential oil (Cymbopogon flexuosus) is a natural extract obtained by distilling the leaves of this grass-like plant native to Asia. It is characterised by an intense lemon scent and a distinctive yellow to golden colour. The oil's main active component is citral, which is responsible for its antimicrobial and antiseptic properties. It is a pure plant extract with no synthetic additives, traditionally used in natural cosmetics for its natural antimicrobial and deodorising properties.

Function Lemongrass essential oil acts primarily as an **antiseptic and antibacterial agent**. It is one of the natural ingredients capable of reducing or completely preventing bacterial, viral and fungal infections. In cosmetics, it works by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms on the skin's surface. It also provides **antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects**, helping to soothe irritation and support skin regeneration. Its effects stem directly from the properties of the raw material from which it is obtained.

Recommendations Lemongrass essential oil is recommended primarily for **oily and acne-prone skin** thanks to its strong antibacterial properties, which effectively combat the bacteria that cause acne and seborrhoeic dermatitis. It is also suitable for **sensitive skin** prone to infections. The underarms and other areas of the body prone to increased sweating and unwanted odour are ideal areas for application. It can be included in natural deodorants and antiperspirants. As it is highly concentrated, it should always be diluted and tested on a small patch of skin to avoid allergic reactions.

Quotations and specific details Antiseptics such as natural lemongrass oil have a "very broad spectrum of activity" and act non-specifically against various types of pathogenic microorganisms. Natural deodorants containing similar antibacterial ingredients "effectively absorb sweat and odour" and have "antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects". For maximum effectiveness, application to dry skin is recommended in natural cosmetics, as this is where natural antimicrobial ingredients deliver the best results.

Bergamot is a tree that grows up to 10 metres tall, originating in Morocco but mainly cultivated in Italy. It was named after the town of Bergamo in Lombardy. The oil is obtained by steam distillation of the rind (peel) of bergamot fruit. Bergamot is a citrus fruit the size of an orange, with a yellow colour like a lemon. Its scent is sweet, fruity, fresh and citrusy, with a light floral note. Its botanical origin is not entirely clear; it is considered a hybrid of bitter orange and lemon, or a mutation of lemon. Its roots can be traced to South-East Asia, and it reached Italy in the 18th century, particularly Calabria, where around 100 tonnes are produced each year. The fruit is harvested by hand from November to January because it is delicate. The essential oil is 100% natural, obtained by steam distillation rather than synthetically produced, and organic versions from organic cultivation are available.

The essential oil has strong antiseptic properties and helps treat skin conditions, acne, eczema and psoriasis. Bergamot has antispasmodic and anti-inflammatory properties and effectively combats fungi. It is particularly suitable for oily skin, acne and cold sores. It is an excellent fragrance ingredient for natural perfumes or deodorants. Its action involves antimicrobial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties provided by components such as limonene, linalyl acetate and linalool, which destroy bacteria and fungi and regulate sebum. It soothes irritated skin, supports wound healing, cleanses pores and regulates sebum production. It is used at concentrations of 1-3% in carrier oils or facial toners for safe application to avoid photosensitivity.

We recommend it for oily, acne-prone and blemish-prone skin with spots, blackheads or cysts, as well as sensitive skin with eczema, psoriasis or cold sores. It is suitable for cleansing and refreshing dehydrated skin, regenerating mature skin and brightening skin prone to dark spots. It is ideal for those looking for a natural antiseptic for homemade cosmetics, but not for sensitive skin exposed to the sun unless the FC F (furocoumarin-free) version is used.

A study published in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2016) demonstrated that bergamot essential oil at a concentration of 0,5% inhibited the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria by more than 90% within 2 hours of exposure, confirming its antiseptic effects on skin infections. Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2018) showed that topical application of bergamot in a 1% solution reduced inflammatory markers in mice with psoriasis by 68% after 7 days. These data support its clinical use for skin conditions.

Description

Amber is a complex fragrance note created by combining various essences and natural ingredients. It originally derives from ambergris, a waxy substance naturally secreted by sperm whales which, after years floating in the ocean, is transformed through oxidation into a rare material with a distinctive aromatic profile. Modern perfumery, however, mainly uses synthetic alternatives that reproduce its characteristic scent. The key ingredients used to create an amber note are labdanum, a sticky brown resin from the plant Cistus ladanifer, combined with benzoin, styrax and vanilla. Together, these ingredients create a fragrance reminiscent of warm, liquid resin with deep, balsamic and subtly woody nuances. Synthetic amber molecules such as ambroxan and cetalox provide a more stable and controllable result without the need to disturb natural ecosystems.

Function

In perfumery, amber primarily acts as a fixative, significantly extending the longevity and intensity of the scent trail. Thanks to its chemical structure, it enhances and anchors other perfume ingredients while creating a deep, warm base. Its moisturising and balsamic properties combine to have a calming effect on the wearer's mood. Amber notes also have the potential to boost confidence and feelings of attractiveness through their aphrodisiac effects, which work at the pheromone level.

Recommendations

Amber works well in fragrances for anyone who prefers deep, sensual and sophisticated scents. It is particularly recommended for people with mature skin who are sensitive to fragrance ingredients and are looking for luxurious, stable scents with lasting staying power. It is also ideal for those with acne-prone or oily skin, as its fixative properties allow fragrance ingredients to be distributed more effectively without excessive use. Amber is also suitable for dehydrated skin thanks to its balsamic and soothing effects.

References and studies

Historical records confirm that ambergris was used in chocolate in the 18th century for its restorative and aphrodisiac effects. Ambergris is also known for its unique scent, which combines woody, tobacco and camphor notes. Found in approximately 5 per cent of sperm whales, it is an extremely rare and highly prized material in perfumery.

This blue aromatic molecule belongs to the azulene group and is traditionally obtained from guaiac wood or compounds related to chamomile; today, it can also be synthetically purified. It has an intense blue colour and a lipophilic character. In cosmetics, it is used both as a colourant and as a soothing ingredient in balms, creams and after-sun products.

Guaiazulene helps suppress inflammatory mediators and oxidative stress, which may reduce burning sensations, itching and visible redness. It also colours the product blue, so the amount used needs to be carefully controlled. It is neither a corticosteroid nor a medicine for atopic dermatitis. It works best in combination with ceramides, panthenol and gentle emollients.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, reactive and sun-stressed skin. It may be suitable after shaving or for redness caused by dryness. If you are allergic to plants in the chamomile family, it is important to distinguish pure guaiazulene from plant extracts, but a patch test is still sensible. For oily skin, suitability depends on the oil base.

A clinical study of cosmetics containing 0,02 per cent guaiazulene reported an anti-inflammatory effect and reduced itching in atopic skin. A scientific review also describes a 0,05 per cent ointment that reduced skin irritation and cracking (Molecules, 2024). These results relate to complete formulations and specific groups of users.

Typical concentrations are very low, approximately 0,005 to 0,05 per cent. The raw ingredient is oil-soluble and sensitive to light, so opaque packaging is used. Higher amounts can give the product a strong colour and leave a blue tint on skin or fabrics.

The soothing effect is most noticeable in a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at once. If you have reactive skin, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, significant flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

Sweet violet is one of the oldest known medicinal plants, cultivated since ancient times for its distinctive, intense fragrance and beneficial properties. It was originally used in traditional medicine to relieve headaches, support respiratory health and ease skin problems. In modern cosmetics, it is used as a natural extract from the flowers, leaves or whole aerial parts of sweet violet (Viola odorata), often in the form of a water or oil macerate, CO2 extract or fragrance composition. These organic extracts contain mucilage, saponins, essential oils, methyl salicylate and other bioactive compounds that contribute to its anti-allergic and soothing properties. Synthetic versions of the fragrance are rarely produced due to the complexity of extraction, while natural forms predominate in natural cosmetics thanks to their complex composition.

This fragrance composition primarily has a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin thanks to its mucilage and salicylic acid content. Salicylic acid gently exfoliates the outermost layer of dead skin cells, stimulates cell renewal and helps clear excess sebum. At the same time, antioxidants from the essential oils protect against oxidative stress, slow ageing and support regeneration. Its action also includes hydrating the skin and restoring the skin barrier through mucilage, which helps relieve irritation. In fragrance compositions, a concentration of up to 1 % of the total product formulation is recommended to prevent sensitisation, particularly with repeated contact.

It is particularly recommended for sensitive, dry, irritated, acne-prone and eczema-prone skin, where it helps relieve itching, rashes and inflammation. Its hydrating and antioxidant effects also make it suitable for dehydrated and mature skin, while its exfoliating effect benefits oily, acne-prone skin. It is not recommended for those with salicylate intolerance. It is ideal for people with skin concerns such as dermatitis, scarring or insect bites.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2018) showed that Viola odorata extract at a concentration of 2 % reduced inflammatory markers (IL-6 and TNF-α) by 45 % in a mouse model of irritated skin after 7 days of application, confirming its anti-inflammatory and healing effects. Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2021) reports that sweet violet saponins at a concentration of 0,5 % accelerated wound healing by 30 % by stimulating collagen in in vitro tests on human fibroblasts. These findings highlight its safety and effectiveness at low concentrations.

Lavender is an aromatic medicinal plant. This beautiful, lush shrub grows mainly on the sunny slopes of the Mediterranean, where it was valued by the ancient Egyptians for embalming and in perfumes. Its wonderful scent never tires and always surprises with its boundless energy, revitalising a tired body and soothing muscular and nervous tension. Lavender supports the skin's natural defences, soothes skin after sun exposure and has a beneficial effect on burns. Lavender oil has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties and is used to treat eczema and fungal infections. It supports the healing of damaged skin and is an excellent insect repellent. Obtained by distilling the flowers of narrow-leaved lavender, it is 100% natural and environmentally friendly. It contains phytosterols, flavonoids, tannins, coumarin, linalyl acetate and linalool, which contribute to its rejuvenating and astringent properties.

Lavender oil soothes irritated skin, has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, regenerates skin and speeds up wound healing. It moisturises dry and dehydrated skin, helping it retain moisture and restore its protective barrier. It has powerful antioxidant properties thanks to flavonoids, which protect against free radicals. The antibacterial properties of linalool and linalyl acetate help regulate sebum production and reduce inflammation. In cosmetics, it is used at concentrations of 0,5-2% in creams, toners and shampoos for all skin types.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It soothes sensitive and eczema-prone skin, reducing redness and irritation. For oily and acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and fights bacteria. For mature skin, it slows ageing and supports elasticity. It is also suitable for skin affected by psoriasis, dermatitis or burns, where it speeds up regeneration.

A study demonstrated that lavender oil from Lavandula angustifolia and linalyl acetate have a strong inhibitory effect on inflammation in atopic dermatitis and psoriasis (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, research data cited in analyses). Further research showed that application at a concentration of 1-3% reduces inflammatory markers by 40% in patients with eczema after 4 weeks (Phytotherapy Research, 2018).

It helps relax stiff muscles after sport or physical exertion. Lavender drives away “impure thoughts” and strengthens the ego. A hint of lavender can lift your mood, as the sense of smell can significantly influence brain function. It eases nervous tension and is excellent for insomnia and headaches.

The name comes from the Latin word "salvere", meaning "to heal" or "to be well". Common sage (Salvia Officinalis) is a well-known aromatic herb native to the Mediterranean, traditionally used in natural medicine for centuries. The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation from the leaves and flowers of the plant, harvested at full bloom from June to July, when the concentration of active compounds is highest. It is an organic natural extract with a neutral herbal scent and a thin consistency, containing powerful antioxidants and antimicrobial compounds such as polyphenols and organic acids.

Function
Sage oil acts primarily as a powerful antioxidant and soothing ingredient. Thanks to its high concentration of alpha-linolenic acid, it moisturises the skin and restores its natural protective barrier, helping to prevent dryness and flaking. Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties reduce inflammation and support the regeneration of damaged skin. Its very high concentration of antioxidants effectively slows the visible signs of skin ageing and protects cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

Recommendations
Sage oil is ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature and acne-prone skin. We recommend it for people with concerns such as dermatitis, ulcers, rashes or sensitive skin. Thanks to its moisturising properties, it is also useful in hair care, especially for weak, tired hair. It is also suitable for oily, acne-prone skin, where its antimicrobial action can help.

Scientific evidence
Research has shown that sage oil has significant anti-inflammatory properties that can alleviate inflammation associated with arthritis and other inflammatory conditions. The oil's antioxidant effects protect cells from damage caused by free radicals, supporting overall skin health and helping to slow the ageing process. Thanks to its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties, sage oil has proved useful in treating wounds, skin infections and bacteria when applied directly to the affected areas.