Cocoa butter

This pale yellow fat is obtained by pressing fermented, dried, roasted and crushed cocoa beans and pulp, known as the food of the gods. This natural product is rich in vitamin E and provides minerals and other substances, including manganese, zinc, copper, theobromine, iron, chromium, magnesium, potassium, and omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids. Saturated fatty acids make up most of its composition (57 – 64 %), giving it exceptional emollient properties. In traditional medicine, it was used for various purposes, from wound healing to pain relief, and today it is a staple ingredient in natural cosmetics thanks to its purity and minimal processing.

Its main action is to intensely moisturise and restore the skin barrier, with saturated fatty acids such as stearic and palmitic acid forming a protective film that prevents moisture loss. It also acts as an antioxidant thanks to vitamin E and polyphenols, which neutralise free radicals and protect against oxidative stress. It supports collagen production, helping to prevent wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It soothes irritated skin, reduces inflammation and speeds up regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in emulsions, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity. A clinical study showed that applying a formulation containing 10 % increased skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018).

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively tackles flaking and loss of elasticity. It is ideal for skin affected by atopic dermatitis, eczema and burns, where it soothes itching and supports healing. It is also suitable for oily skin at low concentrations, as a lip balm or applied locally to dry areas, without clogging pores. It is not recommended in high concentrations for acne-prone skin because of its comedogenicity. Traditional uses include treating dry lips, rheumatism and insect bites, as documented in historical records from Amazonian cultures.

Another study confirmed that cocoa butter at a concentration of 15 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 30 % and improved elasticity by 18 % in women with dry skin after 6 weeks (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015). These polyphenolic compounds contribute to its anti-inflammatory effect, with a 22 % reduction in inflammation in in vitro tests (Food Chemistry, 2012).