Anti-Redness CICA Mask - Rosacare & Post-Treatment

Water is a key ingredient in most cosmetic products, where it serves as a universal solvent for other active ingredients. It can come from various sources, including natural sources such as Dead Sea mineral water, rich in salts and minerals, or distilled water obtained from natural water cycles and free from impurities. In organic cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrolate, an aromatic water obtained by distilling plants that retains essential oils and other beneficial compounds. Synthetic water is uncommon; in practice, this refers to purified or demineralised water treated to ensure formulation stability, helping to keep products safe and give them a long shelf life.

Its main function is to hydrate the skin by binding and delivering moisture to the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, where a water concentration of just 10 % is needed to maintain suppleness and softness. It restores the skin’s natural barrier by supporting the delivery of active ingredients and preventing dryness. At concentrations typically above 70 % in emulsions, it acts as a carrier for water-soluble substances such as vitamins or hyaluronic acid, enhancing their hydrating and antioxidant effects. Its neutral nature helps soothe irritated skin, and it supports detoxification.

It is recommended for all skin types, particularly dry, dehydrated, sensitive and irritated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and eases discomfort. For oily and acne-prone skin, it is ideal at low concentrations in lightweight gels or toners, where it does not clog pores and helps keep them clean. Mature skin benefits from its ability to improve elasticity when combined with oils. It is also suitable for children and newborns in soothing products.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science showed that formulations containing 80-90 % aqua combined with humectants increased stratum corneum hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of daily use (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Dermatology confirmed that Dead Sea water at a concentration of 5 % in a serum improved skin barrier function by 30 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in patients with dry skin (International Journal of Dermatology, 2015).

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide produced through fermentation by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. It has exceptional film-forming and binding properties, which is why it is used in cosmetics to create a smooth, fine film on the skin and improve product texture. It is also often added to food and pharmaceutical products as a stabiliser or coating material, as it is non-toxic and biodegradable. This polysaccharide is obtained through an environmentally friendly biotechnological process, similar to the production of hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation. Its molecular structure consists of glucose units linked by alpha-1,4 and alpha-1,6 bonds, giving it high viscosity and elasticity. Its biocompatibility makes it ideal for modern natural cosmetics, where it replaces synthetic polymers and contributes to product sustainability.

Pullulan acts as an excellent humectant and film-forming agent, creating a protective film on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss and restore the skin barrier. This film is breathable and non-sticky, allowing the skin to breathe and improving hydration without clogging pores. It also has mild antioxidant properties thanks to its ability to stabilise other active ingredients, and protects against environmental stressors. It does not exfoliate, but soothes the skin with its gentle texture. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 0,5 to 2 per cent, with 1 % significantly improving the sensory properties of gels and serums.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it strengthens the barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss. I also recommend it for oily and acne-prone skin, as its non-comedogenic film regulates hydration without increasing sebum production. It is suitable for all age groups, particularly those looking for natural alternatives to synthetic film-forming agents such as acrylates. In anti-ageing products, it supports smoothness and elasticity.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) demonstrated that pullulan at a concentration of 1 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2020) confirmed that pullulan improves the penetration of active ingredients by 35 % thanks to its film-forming properties (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2020). These data highlight its efficacy in clinical tests.

This natural polysaccharide is obtained from the cell walls of brown seaweed. Once purified, it is used as a powder that can bind large amounts of water and form a gel. In cosmetics, it is best known for its use in peel-off modelling masks, serums and texturising systems. It is biodegradable and has no noticeable scent.

Algin T500 thickens the water phase, forms a flexible film and helps retain moisture at the skin's surface. In powder masks, it reacts with calcium salts to form a continuous gel, prolonging contact between the active ingredients and the skin. Algin itself is neither a strong antioxidant nor an exfoliant. Its benefits lie in hydration, relieving feelings of tightness and the mask's pleasant, cooling, occlusive effect.

It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, mature and oily skin. Alginate masks are useful after gentle cosmetic treatments, provided they contain no irritating active ingredients. For highly reactive skin, the entire mineral and preservative system needs to be considered, not just the algin. The polysaccharide itself does not generally clog pores.

A scientific review of marine alginates in cosmetic and biomedical applications describes their ability to bind water, form protective hydrogels and maintain a moist environment suitable for skin surfaces (Marine Drugs Review). Clinical evidence for a rejuvenating effect from algin alone is limited, so it is more accurate to regard it as a hydrating carrier and texturiser.

The concentration depends on the type of alginate and its application, ranging from around 0,1 per cent in a serum to a high proportion in a powder mask. Hydration must be even, without lumps. Gel formation is significantly affected by calcium ions, pH and electrolyte levels.

For the user, its benefits are most apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not merely an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing the finished product, consider its stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves after SPF or make-up is applied. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).

This is a water-soluble derivative of a dicarboxylic acid, in which the active component is linked to the amino acid glycine and neutralised with potassium. It is produced through controlled synthesis to improve the solubility and tolerability of the original acid. The ingredient is suitable for lightweight water-based serums and emulsions, where the poorly soluble original molecule is more difficult to use.

Azeclair PAD helps regulate excess sebum production, supports a more even skin tone and also provides hydration. Its mechanism involves inhibiting the enzyme 5 alpha reductase, regulating pigment production processes and the presence of the glycine component. Compared with conventional azelaic acid, it tends to feel more comfortable on the skin and causes less stinging, although it is not exactly the same substance or a substitute for dermatological treatment.

We recommend it for oily, combination, acne-prone skin and skin with pigmentation, as well as sensitive skin that does not tolerate strong acids well. It is suitable for shine, enlarged pores, post-acne marks and uneven skin tone. In cases of active rosacea or an impaired skin barrier, a new product should be introduced gradually and without other irritating ingredients.

When a 3 per cent aqueous solution was applied twice daily for three weeks, skin lipid levels fell by 29,4 per cent on the forehead, 27,0 per cent on the nose and 31,5 per cent on the chin. Hydration increased by 12,7 per cent on the forehead and 8,2 per cent on the cheek (Cosmetics and Toiletries, 2002). The study was small, involving five volunteers.

In finished products, it is often used at approximately 3 to 10 per cent of the supplier's solution, depending on the active ingredient content. It is suitable for a pH of approximately 5 to 7. Even with good tolerability, the complete formulation must be tested for compatibility, stability and efficacy.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

This is a natural emollient derived from sugar beet and coconut. It is of 100% natural origin and is 100% biodegradable. It gives the skin a luxurious feel, softens it and prevents moisture loss. It gives products a lightweight, non-greasy feel. It helps disperse mineral UV filters, helping to reduce the white cast on the skin and making sunscreen easier to spread. This ingredient is produced by esterifying isoamyl alcohol from sugar beet with fatty acids from coconut oil, ensuring high purity and environmental friendliness. Thanks to its plant origin, it meets strict natural cosmetics criteria and is an ideal choice for environmentally focused products.

It works primarily by moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, strengthening the skin’s lipid layer and preventing transepidermal water loss. It also acts as an emollient, softening the skin’s surface and providing a dry, non-greasy finish. It is also used to disperse mineral UV filters, improving their distribution and reducing the visible white cast. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 1-10 %, depending on the desired viscosity and type of emulsion, with lower concentrations (1-3 %) sufficient for lightweight creams and higher concentrations (5-10 %) for sunscreens.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin, where it effectively prevents moisture loss and provides comfort without feeling heavy. Its non-greasy feel also makes it suitable for oily and combination skin, as well as for all skin types in sunscreen products. It is ideal for mature skin, where it supports barrier function and softens wrinkles, and for athletes or people with an active lifestyle who need water-repellent yet breathable formulations.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that Isoamyl Laurate at a concentration of 5 % in emulsions with mineral UV filters reduced the visibility of the white cast by 68 % and improved spreadability by 45 % compared with standard emulsifiers. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that this emollient increases skin hydration by 25 % at 4 hours after application compared with synthetic alternatives, confirming its effectiveness in restoring the lipid barrier.

Ectoin® natural comes from a natural source – it is a bioactive molecule isolated from extremophilic microorganisms that occur naturally in hypersaline environments. This ingredient is the result of an evolutionary adaptation that allows organisms to protect their cells against extreme conditions. Ectoin belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes – natural osmoprotectants that enable cells to survive in harsh environments. Its natural origin and complex mechanism of action place it among the most advanced bioactive ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This ingredient works in several ways to restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Ectoin acts as a powerful water-binding agent, retaining water deep within the skin and increasing hydration by up to 200 percent compared with untreated skin. It also acts as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and protecting cells from damage caused by UV radiation, blue light and environmental pollution. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces inflammation and supports the repair of a damaged skin barrier, helping to soothe irritation and sensitivity.

Ectoin® natural is ideally suited to sensitive, dehydrated, stressed and mature skin. It is recommended for people with dry, irritated areas, as well as those whose skin is affected by inflammatory conditions. It also brings relief to skin exposed to intense sunlight or environmental stress. Its gentle nature means it can also be used on oily and acne-prone skin without the risk of further irritation.

Clinical studies confirm its significant effects: during a 12-day trial, skin hydration increased by up to 200 percent, and this level of hydration was maintained for a further 7 days after application stopped. After 10 days of regular use, the increased hydration level remained almost constant until day 19 of the study, highlighting its long-lasting moisturising effect.

This botanical extract comes from a small Asian herb traditionally used to help skin heal. It contains triterpenes, particularly asiaticoside, madecassoside and their acids. The quality of the extract depends on the part of the plant used, the solvent and standardisation. In cosmetics, it is added to soothing serums, creams and after-sun products.

Centella extract supports fibroblast activity, collagen production and the renewal of the extracellular matrix. It also reduces inflammatory signals and oxidative stress, helping to ease redness and discomfort. It is not a medicine that heals instantly, but a supportive cosmetic ingredient. Combined with panthenol, beta-glucan and barrier lipids, it is suitable for weakened skin.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, acne-prone, mature and irritated skin. It is suitable for post-acne marks, over-exfoliated skin and skin exposed to wind or sun. It does not replace medical treatment for open wounds or active skin conditions. People with allergies to plant extracts should carry out a patch test.

A scientific review reports that topical triterpenes from Centella asiatica stimulated collagen synthesis, cell proliferation and burn healing. Clinical studies using extracts recorded faster healing and improved scar quality (Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2021). The effect depends on standardisation, so the results of one formulation cannot be applied to every unspecified extract.

It is used at approximately 0,1 to 5 per cent, depending on the concentration of the supplier's extract. Sensitive triterpenes are best added at a lower temperature. Colour and scent can affect the final product. Microbiological quality and stability at the chosen pH are important.

The effects of plant extracts can vary depending on the plant species, the part used, the solvent and the levels of marker compounds. Two raw materials with similar names may therefore not be interchangeable. A reputable supplier specifies the extraction method, microbiological purity and standardisation. It is also worth monitoring the colour, scent and stability of the finished product, as natural origin does not automatically mean there is no risk of irritation. A patch test on a small area is therefore sensible too.

This biotechnological blend combines an aqueous extract of tea leaves with Lactobacillus bacterial ferments. Fermentation can release smaller phenolic and amino acid components and creates a gentle postbiotic profile. The blend is used in products targeting microbial balance, sebum and the skin’s surface defences.

AC Skinmunity Tea combines the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of green tea polyphenols with the hydrating and soothing components of the ferment. It may help reduce sebum oxidation, shine and redness. The ferment is not a live probiotic and does not permanently colonise the skin. Its role is to supply postbiotic metabolites and create a favourable environment within a well-preserved formulation.

We recommend it for oily, acne-prone, sensitive and stressed skin. It is also suitable for the first signs of ageing, as green tea helps protect against oxidative stress. Those with very reactive skin should start with a simple, fragrance-free product. Fermented ingredients may have a natural scent or colour.

A review of human studies on green tea reports that a 2 per cent topical tea lotion reduced sebum production and improved mild to moderate acne (Antioxidants, 2017). This study assessed green tea, not the entire fermented blend, so it provides supporting evidence for the main botanical component rather than direct clinical validation of the ingredient.

The usage level follows the supplier’s technical data sheet, often around 1 to 5 per cent. The blend is added during the cool-down phase and requires an effective preservative system. Compatibility with cationic substances, pH, scent and colour stability during storage should be monitored.

The effects of botanical extracts can vary depending on the plant species, the part used, the solvent and the marker compound content. Two ingredients with similar names may therefore not be interchangeable. A reputable supplier specifies the extraction method, microbiological purity and standardisation. Colour, scent and stability should also be monitored in the finished product, as a natural origin does not automatically mean there is no risk of irritation. A patch test on a small area is therefore sensible.

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

This water-soluble polymer is made by modifying natural cellulose. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, stabiliser and gelling agent. It has no pronounced colour or scent and allows the creation of clear to slightly opalescent serums. It is a functional ingredient in the formula, not an active botanical ingredient with a direct rejuvenating effect.

Hydroxyethylcellulose increases the viscosity of the water phase, keeps insoluble particles evenly dispersed and makes the product easier to dispense. It forms a fine film on the skin, which can reduce the feeling of roughness and help distribute hydrating or exfoliating active ingredients evenly. On its own, it does not replenish ceramides or stimulate collagen. At the right concentration, it gives the product a smooth glide, but too much can cause stringiness, stickiness or pilling.

In finished products, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as it is a non-ionic and generally well-tolerated polymer. It is useful in acid-based serums, hydrating gels, cleansers and scalp products. Suitability for a particular skin type always depends on the active ingredients and the preservative system.

Researchers used hydroxyethylcellulose as the base for a dermal hydrogel to deliver khellin and assessed its permeation and acute toxicity. The gel provided a stable carrier medium and enabled controlled delivery through the skin (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021). The study demonstrates the polymer's role as a safe carrier, not a therapeutic effect of its own.

The typical concentration is approximately 0,1 to 1,5 per cent. The powder should be dispersed slowly in water and allowed to hydrate fully to prevent lumps. The manufacturer must monitor viscosity at the target pH and compatibility with electrolytes, surfactants and high levels of active ingredients.

For the user, its benefits are mainly apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves when SPF or make-up is applied afterwards. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

Lady Purple is an exceptional cosmetic ingredient that brings radiance and hydration from the depths of the sea to your skin.

The origin of this ingredient is entirely natural: it is an extract obtained from the red microalga Porphyridium cruentum. This organism is specially cultivated in natural sunlight to preserve the full potential of its bioactive compounds. The ingredient contains high levels of polysaccharides, vitamins and unique pigments, such as phycoerythrin, which are key to its effectiveness on the skin. It is an ideal example of how modern cosmetics can harness the power of the ocean without synthetic additives.

The mechanism of action of Lady Purple is based on several important processes. Primarily, it hydrates the skin and restores its protective barrier, while acting as a powerful antioxidant that protects against free radicals. The ingredient also soothes sensitive areas and supports regeneration. Studies suggest that the extract acts similarly to hydrating hyaluronic acid, often even surpassing it in its ability to improve skin firmness.

The skin types best suited to Lady Purple include dry, dehydrated and mature skin in need of immediate hydration and firming. However, it is equally effective for sensitive skin, as its soothing properties reduce redness. We also recommend it for those who want visibly younger-looking, firmer skin without heavy textures.

Its effectiveness is supported by a double-blind clinical study published in a specialist journal. In the double-blind clinical study, with a placebo and hyaluronic acid as reference controls, Porphyridium extract provided significant benefits for skin hydration, firmness and radiance, overall matching or even exceeding the hyaluronic acid benchmark (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020). This study clearly confirmed that the extract increases collagen and hyaluronic acid production, improving firmness and reducing wrinkles.

This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.

In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.

It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.

A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.

During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.

This plant extract is obtained from the root of a traditional East Asian medicinal plant. It contains red-purple naphthoquinone pigments, mainly shikonin and its derivatives. As well as providing colour, it offers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is more soluble in oils, and its shade changes depending on the formulation's pH, exposure to light and oxidation state.

Gromwell-red colourant provides a natural red to purple tone and may also reduce inflammatory signalling and support the recovery of dry skin. Shikonin affects several enzymes and inflammatory mediators, but at higher doses it can be highly biologically active. The ingredient is therefore used with caution and should not be regarded simply as a harmless plant-based colourant.

It is particularly suitable for balms and oil-based products for dry, mature or irritated skin. For sensitive skin, a low concentration and a patch test are recommended. Use on acutely inflamed skin, during pregnancy or on children requires extra caution and assessment by a safety assessor. It may stain skin, fabrics and packaging.

Cosmetic formulations containing Lithospermum erythrorhizon root extract have been shown to improve hydration and reduce transepidermal water loss in humans, which was associated with protection of the stratum corneum (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2008). The study assessed complete formulations, so the result cannot be attributed to the pigment alone.

It is used at low levels depending on its colouring strength and shikonin content. It must be protected from light and oxidation, and its colour stability must be monitored at the target pH. Before use, toxicological data from the supplier are required, along with a check that the intended use is legally permitted.

The effects of plant extracts can vary depending on the plant species, the part used, the solvent and the levels of marker compounds. Two raw materials with similar names may therefore not be interchangeable. A reputable supplier provides details of the extraction method, microbiological purity and standardisation. It is also advisable to monitor the colour, scent and stability of the finished product, as natural origin does not automatically mean there is no risk of irritation. A patch test on a small area is therefore sensible too.