DUROSOFT®

This is a plant-derived ester made by combining polyglycerol with oleic acid, which can be sourced from sunflower oil. The result is a viscous, oil-loving ingredient suitable for naturally focused and water-free formulations. It is not a conventional skincare active with a therapeutic effect, but a functional ingredient that determines the stability, texture and comfort of the finished product.

DUROSOFT® primarily acts as a non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier. It helps disperse tiny water droplets within a continuous oil phase and keep them evenly distributed. These emulsions can form a protective layer on the skin that spreads easily and indirectly reduces water loss. It also has an emollient effect, softening the skin's surface and improving the glide of oils, balms and make-up removers. The supplier recommends a concentration of approximately 5 to 15 per cent, depending on the product type.

It is particularly useful in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, especially barrier creams, night balms and protective products. In water-free cleansing oils, it helps create a gentler interaction with water during rinsing. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, although the overall formulation and the amount of oils are decisive. The ingredient itself does not treat acne, pigmentation or redness.

In a laboratory study of microemulsions containing ceramide AP, the use of Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate together with linoleic acid increased the stability of the system and significantly broadened the range of conditions in which the microemulsion formed. The prepared formulations remained stable for 10 to more than 24 months, and both ceramide release and penetration were better than from the hydrophilic comparison cream (International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 2012). The result primarily demonstrates its importance for the stable distribution of lipid actives, rather than an independent clinical effect on the skin.

An assessment by the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety covering 274 polyglyceryl esters concluded that they were safe under current cosmetic uses, provided the finished product is formulated to be non-irritating (International Journal of Toxicology, 2023). During development, the water-to-oil ratio, manufacturing temperature, preservative system and compatibility with active ingredients all need to be monitored.