Tranexamic Acid

This is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which has long been used in medicine for its ability to influence the plasmin system. In cosmetics, it is used at lower topical concentrations to address uneven skin tone. It is water-soluble, has no pronounced colour and, at the right pH, can be incorporated into serums, emulsions and targeted treatment products.

Tranexamic Acid limits plasmin activation and the subsequent communication between keratinocytes and melanocytes, which increases following UV exposure and inflammation. This may help reduce excess pigment production in melasma and post-inflammatory dark spots. It does not exfoliate or mechanically remove pigment. Results develop gradually and must be supported by daily broad-spectrum sun protection.

We recommend it for skin with pigmentation, including sensitive, acne-prone and mature skin with sun spots, melasma or post-inflammatory marks. Compared with several other acids, it is generally well tolerated, but sensitive skin may experience dryness or stinging. Pregnant people and those with blood clotting disorders should always consult a doctor before medical use, although topical cosmetic doses are different.

A randomised, double-blind study involving 99 patients compared 2 per cent tranexamic acid with 2 per cent niacinamide in a niosomal base, conventional 5 per cent tranexamic acid and 4 per cent hydroquinone. After three months, all groups showed significant reductions in both the melanin index and mMASI, and the tranexamic acid formulations caused less severe adverse reactions (Scientific Reports, 2025).

In cosmetics, it is commonly used at approximately 2 to 5 per cent. Complete solubility, a suitable pH and compatibility with the preservative system are important. Melasma requires long-term use and consistent SPF protection, as pigmentation may return after discontinuing use or following sun exposure.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.