Spicule

These are microscopic, needle-like structures obtained from the silica skeletons of freshwater or marine sponges, then hydrolysed and purified. In cosmetics, they act as a physical delivery system that temporarily lodges in the outermost layers of the skin during massage. Rather than a soluble active ingredient, this is a mechanical technology that increases contact with and penetration of other ingredients.

Spicules create very fine microchannels and support surface renewal. This can increase the penetration of hydrating, brightening or anti-acne ingredients. Application often causes a prickling sensation that can last for several hours. Greater intensity is not automatically better. An excessive dose, use alongside acids or retinoids, or application to skin with a compromised barrier can lead to redness, inflammation and increased sensitivity.

They are best suited to more resilient, oily, thickened or uneven skin, and to experienced users of intensive skincare. We do not recommend them for rosacea, eczema, actively inflamed acne, open wounds or immediately after aesthetic procedures. Those with sensitive skin should choose a very low intensity or avoid this technology.

In a study using spicules from the Haliclona sponge, penetration of the antimicrobial peptide tested into the skin increased to 40,9 plus or minus 5,9 per cent, which was 6,1 times higher than with the peptide alone (Pharmaceutics, 2024). The result demonstrates a strong delivery effect, but also highlights the need for very careful formulation.

The concentration depends on size, purity and the manufacturer's recommendations. The product is applied with gentle massage and should not be layered with other irritating active ingredients. Sun protection is essential after use. The manufacturer must verify microbiological purity, particle size and the tolerability of the finished product.

With technologically advanced delivery and stimulation systems, the quality of the finished product matters more than an impressive ingredient name. The effect depends on the dose, how the ingredient is incorporated, the packaging and stability throughout the product's shelf life. Those with sensitive skin should proceed cautiously and try a new product on its own. Manufacturers should base their claims on testing of the finished formulation, not solely on data from the raw material supplier.