SOS Acne - Intense Treatment Serum

With its beautiful, intoxicating scent, this rose water of the highest quality is a completely natural product with wonderful beauty benefits. It is an extract of damask rose petals, obtained by distilling fresh flowers, and contains water-soluble volatile and aromatic compounds from roses. This hydrolate is rich in antioxidants, bioflavonoids and carotenes that penetrate the skin and support its health. Thanks to its strong antibacterial properties, it is made without preservatives, and is hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin. As well as being used in cosmetics, it is used in cooking to flavour desserts and drinks, and supports digestion when consumed in small amounts.

Rose water is an excellent toner that hydrates the skin, balances its pH, cleanses pores and stimulates regeneration. It has strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, disinfects, prevents inflammation and tightens pores. It soothes irritated skin, reduces redness and puffiness, and promotes healing in skin affected by acne, eczema or rosacea. As an antioxidant, it protects against free radicals, slows ageing, improves elasticity and helps prevent wrinkles. It is used at a concentration of 100 % as a toner or spray, with no need to dilute it, ideally morning and evening.

We recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for children, people with allergies, and after shaving, hair removal or sunburn. In summer, it refreshes the skin as a spray, sets make-up and removes blackheads. Suitable for anyone looking for natural, alcohol-free skincare.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2011) showed that Rosa damascena hydrolate at a concentration of 100 % significantly reduced inflammatory markers in patients with acne by 68 % after 60 days of daily application, thanks to its phenolic compounds and essential oils (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2011). Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2015) reports that the antioxidants in rose water improved skin hydration by 25 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in dry skin (Phytotherapy Research, 2015).

The earliest records of aloe vera as a medicinal plant date back thousands of years to ancient Egypt. Hippocrates also used aloe vera in his treatments, and Christopher Columbus called it the “doctor in a pot”. Aloe barbadensis is the most precious and sought-after variety of aloe vera among around 300 species of this plant. Cleopatra herself used its beauty benefits to help maintain her beauty and keep her skin and body fresh and full of vitality. Aloe vera is a source of a wide range of vital elements, including vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E), minerals (calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, chlorine, as well as manganese, copper, zinc and chromium), amino acids (aloe vera contains as many as eight essential amino acids), and even enzymes, lectins and saponins – active substances that act against viruses, bacteria, fungi and infections. “Cleansing” lignin allows substances to penetrate deep into the skin. Anthraquinones help relieve pain and combat bacterial growth and viruses. The juice of this plant has adaptogenic properties, meaning that each cell in the human body uses only the substances it currently needs. To preserve these nutritional qualities, found in the gel-like substance inside the aloe vera leaf, the plant must be grown and processed correctly to prevent oxidation, which reduces its beneficial substances. When exposed to oxygen for more than 4 hours, the gel-like substance in the leaf oxidises and loses its value (you may recognise a similar reaction in a freshly cut apple, which quickly turns brown). Aloe must be stabilised. Stabilisation is a patented cold process that ensures the aloe stays just as it would be if you had freshly cut the leaf yourself. This process uses neither heat (stabilisation takes place at around 30 °C) nor chemicals, as these would destroy aloe vera's active components. Aloe vera protects the body from the harmful effects of oxygen free radicals, repairs and regenerates damaged cells and tissue, and can guide immune cells to the site of damage. Aloe vera has powerful detoxifying properties that help the body remove waste materials, toxins and bacteria, including from your digestive system.

Aloe vera juice intensely hydrates the skin thanks to polysaccharides, which form a protective film and lock moisture deep within the skin without leaving a greasy feel. It restores the skin barrier through vitamins and minerals that support cell regeneration and collagen production. As an antioxidant, it protects vitamins C, E and beta-carotene from free radicals, slowing skin ageing. It gently exfoliates thanks to enzymes that remove dead skin cells, and soothes irritation with anti-inflammatory compounds such as acemannan. Studies show that at concentrations above 1 %, it significantly improves hydration and regeneration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for reactive skin after sun exposure, shaving or treatments, where it soothes redness. For acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and cleanses pores without clogging them. For mature skin, it supports elasticity and reduces wrinkles.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2009) showed that aloe vera gel at a concentration of 0,5 % accelerated wound healing by 72 % compared with the control group after 12 days. Another study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014) showed that aloe vera at a concentration of 1 % increased collagen synthesis by 25 % in a culture of human fibroblasts.

This dicarboxylic acid occurs naturally in grains and is also produced by yeasts on the skin. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical grades are manufactured through controlled synthesis, ensuring purity and consistent properties. It dissolves poorly in water, so it requires a suitable suspension, solvent or specialised carrier.

Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, limits the growth of microorganisms associated with acne, normalises keratinisation in sebaceous gland ducts and reduces excessive tyrosinase activity. This helps with inflamed spots, blocked pores, redness and post-inflammatory marks. It is neither a conventional AHA nor a BHA, and its action does not rely on intensive surface peeling.

We recommend it for acne-prone, oily and pigmented skin, as well as skin prone to rosacea. It is also suitable for sensitive skin, although stinging, itching or dryness may occur at first. It is sensible to introduce the product every other evening and gradually increase the frequency. If the skin barrier is compromised, hydration and the protective barrier should be restored first.

Two randomised, vehicle-controlled phase III trials showed that a 15 per cent gel significantly reduced the number of inflammatory lesions and the intensity of erythema in papulopustular rosacea compared with the vehicle (Archives of Dermatology, 2003). Clinically tested concentrations for acne and rosacea are usually 15 to 20 per cent, while cosmetic products often use lower amounts.

Cosmetic concentrations are approximately 5 to 10 per cent, while dermatological formulations use 15 to 20 per cent. An even dispersion without coarse crystals is essential. Combining it with retinoids or exfoliating acids may increase irritation, so active ingredients should be introduced gradually and SPF used during the day.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

Cucumber juice comes from the fruit of the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus L.), which belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family. It is a natural botanical extract obtained by steam distillation of cucumber fruit, preserving all the valuable substances of the original plant. This ingredient is used in cosmetics for its high water content – up to 96 per cent – and its rich profile of active components, including vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Cucumber juice offers a gentle, natural way to deliver key nutrients directly to the skin's surface without harsh chemical processing.

Cucumber juice works in several ways. It primarily acts as a powerful moisturising agent thanks to its high water content and potassium, which help maintain skin hydration and elasticity. It contains vitamin C, which acts as an antioxidant and fights free radicals and UV damage. Vitamin K and silica support collagen and skin firmness, helping to restore the skin barrier. Caffeic acid and fisetin provide anti-inflammatory benefits that soothe irritated and inflamed skin. Mild astringent properties gently improve skin texture and minimise the appearance of enlarged pores without the adverse effects typical of traditional astringents.

Cucumber juice is ideal for all skin types, particularly dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin. Its gentle nature also makes it an excellent choice for acne-prone skin that is sensitive to harsh ingredients. Its antimicrobial properties and alkaline pH create an environment in which bacteria cannot survive, helping to control acne. This ingredient is particularly suitable for people experiencing inflammation, redness or sensitivity around the eyes, and for those looking for a refreshing, soothing ingredient.

Scientific research confirms the effectiveness of cucumber juice: a study showed that a 5% cream with cucumber extract significantly increased IL-10 and VEGF levels in the skin (with values of 715,75 ± 152,65 ng/L for VEGF), supporting tissue regeneration and reducing inflammation associated with xerosis. Further clinical trials in humans demonstrated the safety of formulations containing up to 1% cucumber juice, with no skin irritation or sensitisation. The appearance of redness and swelling was reduced thanks to the cooling properties of this natural ingredient.

Niacin, or vitamin B3, belongs to the B vitamin complex. Vitamin B3 is a collective term for nicotinic acid and niacin. It occurs naturally in foods such as meat, fish, nuts and wholegrain products, but cosmetics use a synthetic form or organic extracts from yeast and plants. This water-soluble vitamin is essential for cellular metabolism and the synthesis of the coenzyme NAD, which supports energy processes in skin cells. In cosmetic products, it is added in the stable form of niacinamide, which is readily absorbed into the skin without causing irritation.

It protects the skin and improves its health. It plays a role in cellular metabolism, helping enzymatic processes function properly. Its mechanism of action includes moisturising the skin by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and free fatty acids, thereby restoring the skin barrier. It has powerful antioxidant properties that neutralise free radicals and protect against oxidative stress. It soothes inflammation by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and promotes exfoliation by regulating keratinisation. Recommended concentrations are 2-5 % for hydration and barrier repair, and up to 10 % for pigmentation and acne.

Niacin helps the skin retain water, improves the condition of sensitive skin (including skin with rosacea) and strengthens its defences. It is also excellent for supporting acne treatment, both topically and orally. It is useful even for severe forms of acne. It improves the appearance of ageing skin and brightens the complexion, making it suitable for reducing pigmentation and age spots. It plumps and hydrates the skin and prevents water loss. Its benefits extend well beyond our skin and hair. I recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for rosacea, eczema, hyperpigmentation and anti-ageing care, as it strengthens the barrier without clogging pores.

This vitamin is important for the proper functioning of the whole body, and a deficiency can cause fatigue, digestive problems, mental illness and depression, for example. A clinical study showed that niacinamide at a concentration of 4 % reduced hyperpigmentation by 35-68 % after 4-8 weeks in patients with melasma (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004). Further research confirmed that 4 % niacinamide reduced acne lesions by 52 %, while 2 % niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation by 44 % after 8 weeks (International Journal of Dermatology, 2002). High-dose oral supplementation (1 g daily) reduced acne symptoms by 50 % after 8 weeks (Botanic.sk study).

This water-binding ingredient acts as a moisturiser and skin softener in cosmetics. It helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. Another key benefit of pentylene glycol is that, unlike conventional alcohol, it does not have a drying effect, even at higher concentrations. Pentylene glycol is an excellent aid for macerating herbs. It does not dry the skin like conventional alcohol and, thanks to its properties, extracts both water-soluble and fat-soluble substances from herbs. Pentylene Glycol also helps prevent the growth of microorganisms on the skin. It is water-soluble, acts as a solubiliser and is colourless and odourless. Pentylene glycol is made from sugar cane bagasse and corn cobs and is certified by Ecocert Cosmos and NATRUE. The raw materials used in its production are not derived from GMO sources. This ingredient comes from renewable plant sources: bagasse is a by-product of cane sugar production, while maize provides fermentable starches, ensuring sustainable production without relying on petrochemical derivatives.

Its action is primarily based on its ability to retain moisture: it binds water in the skin and prevents moisture loss, restoring the lipid barrier. It also has antimicrobial properties that inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi, allowing it to act as a gentle preservative. It helps active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin without disrupting its structure. At concentrations of 1 to 5 per cent, it is recommended as a safe humectant and solubiliser; at 3 per cent, it significantly reduces microbial contamination without causing irritation.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, providing effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its non-comedogenic and antimicrobial properties, which help prevent inflammation without clogging pores. It is ideal for sensitive skin, including children's skin, as it contains no harsh preservatives and minimises the risk of irritation.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) showed that pentylene glycol at a concentration of 4 per cent inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 per cent and Candida albicans by 99,8 per cent after 48 hours of exposure, confirming its strong antimicrobial effects while remaining safe for the skin. Further research in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2008) reports that, at a concentration of 2 per cent, it reduces microbial contamination in cosmetic emulsions by 4 log units within 7 days.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Offers a new approach to corneotherapy (corneotherapy, from the Latin corneum = horny layer, is a new field in cosmetics that focuses specifically on the outermost layer of the skin. Cosmopharmacy is a specialised combination of cosmetology and pharmacy). This active ingredient is specially designed to provide gradual, controlled diffusion of AHA acids. The lamellar gel formulation also prevents potential skin irritation or inflammation. The water-based lamellar gel consists of a biomaterial into which AHA acids are absorbed. This technology allows lower concentrations of AHA acids to be used, with effects comparable to those of conventional AHA acids. This makes it suitable even for sensitive skin or skin that becomes irritated or inflamed when conventional AHA acids are used. Composition: a synergy of alpha-hydroxy acids: 15% glycolic acid, 7% lactic acid and 6% citric acid absorbed into a lamellar biomaterial. IN VIVO tests showed renewal of the skin's horny layer, giving the skin a beautiful, more radiant and velvety appearance. AHA acids weaken the cohesion of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin, made up of dead cells called corneocytes), increasing exfoliation and accelerating cell renewal. Effective exfoliation without potential irritation or inflammation of the corneocytes ensures an even skin tone, reduces hyperpigmentation, softens acne scars and releases sebum from the pores.

The mechanism of action involves gradual exfoliation, in which AHA acids weaken the bonds between corneocytes in the stratum corneum, encouraging the shedding of dead cells and accelerating skin renewal. At the same time, the lamellar gel ensures controlled diffusion, minimises irritation and restores the skin barrier. It provides a moisturising effect thanks to lactic acid, antioxidant protection through citric acid and the soothing properties of the biomaterial. The recommended concentration in the finished product is 1-5% for optimal results without the risk of irritation.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for people with hyperpigmentation, acne scars or an uneven skin tone, for whom conventional AHAs are unsuitable because of irritation. Also suitable for sensitive skin, as lower concentrations achieve comparable effects with less risk.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004) demonstrated that a combination of 8% glycolic acid and 3% lactic acid in a lamellar system reduced the thickness of the stratum corneum by 25% after 4 weeks, with no erythema occurring in 92% of participants with sensitive skin. Another clinical study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that a 5% AHA complex in a biomaterial improved hydration by 40% and reduced hyperpigmentation by 30% over 6 weeks in patients with photoageing.

This amino sugar molecule occurs naturally in the body and is a building block of several polysaccharides. Cosmetic-grade material is produced by fermentation or controlled synthesis. It dissolves readily in water and is stable in mildly acidic to neutral conditions. In formulations, it is used as a hydrating and brightening ingredient with very good skin tolerance.

N-Acetyl Glucosamine helps reduce excess pigment production by influencing the glycosylation of tyrosinase, an enzyme needed for melanin production. It also supports the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, contributing to a smoother, more hydrated surface. Its effect is gradual and gentle, without typical peeling. It works particularly well with niacinamide, as the two ingredients target pigmentation through different mechanisms.

We recommend it for skin with pigmentation, as well as dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin. It is suitable for sun spots, uneven skin tone and post-acne marks, particularly for people who do not tolerate strong exfoliating acids well. It can also be used on oily skin, as it leaves no oily film and generally does not clog pores.

In an eight-week double-blind study, a 2 per cent concentration of N-acetylglucosamine reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation compared with the vehicle alone. A combination of 2 per cent NAG and 4 per cent niacinamide delivered an even greater improvement in pigmentation spots (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2007). The results support long-term, regular use alongside daily SPF.

It is most commonly used at a concentration of approximately 1 to 4 per cent. The formulation’s pH should be kept in the mildly acidic to neutral range, and compatibility with reducing sugars and high temperatures should be monitored. When addressing pigmentation, broad-spectrum sun protection must be part of the routine.

In a daily routine, it is worth assessing longer-term skin comfort and suppleness in particular, as well as whether the skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the whole formulation, consistent use and gentle cleansing, rather than a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

Polyfructose extracted from chicory root (Cichorium Intybus) and enzymatically purified to a chain length of more than 10 fructose units. In addition to restoring the skin microbiome, it provides cells with the energy they need for their metabolism and functions. A new, scientifically tested skin prebiotic. A prebiotic is essentially a selective nutritional supplement for our protective, beneficial skin microbiota. Harmful microorganisms cannot metabolise the prebiotic. This strengthens and balances the skin's natural microbiota while putting harmful microorganisms at a disadvantage. As our first line of defence, our skin microbiota is constantly exposed to harsh environmental conditions. Pollution, excessive UV exposure, household chemicals and harsh cosmetics can disrupt its delicate balance. Its only resources for survival are dead corneocytes, sebum and oxidised skin lipids. Sometimes this is simply not enough to cope with environmental conditions. When this barrier weakens, our skin becomes sensitive, dry, infected, itchy and wrinkled: the skin ages. The solution to slowing skin ageing and keeping skin healthy is to provide energy for, and protect, this precious barrier formed by the skin microbiota. Protecting, strengthening and balancing the human skin microbiota is a key strategy for maintaining skin health and beauty. The prebiotic culture significantly improves the skin microbiota, making skin more resilient and healthier.

It works by selectively feeding beneficial bacteria in the skin microbiome, helping to restore the skin barrier, moisturise the skin and provide antioxidant action. It supplies cells with energy for their metabolism, promotes the growth of beneficial microorganisms and puts harmful ones at a disadvantage. It forms a light protective film, maintains the skin's slightly acidic pH and reduces oxidative stress. Clinical studies show that regular use helps maintain skin barrier homeostasis, triggers antioxidant responses and increases skin hydration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, irritated, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for skin weakened by external factors such as pollution or UV exposure, helping to strengthen its defences and improve hydration. Suitable for all skin types, especially those with a disrupted microbiota, as seen in acne, eczema or ageing skin.

Clinical studies show that regular use of the prebiotic complex increases skin hydration over 28 days and helps maintain skin barrier homeostasis (Prebiulin clinical tests, Givaudan). Prebiotics reduce inflammation and strengthen the barrier, helping to reduce redness in sensitive skin (studies on probiotics and prebiotics in cosmetics, AntiAge.sk).

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is a gentle emulsifying ingredient and cleansing agent often used in cosmetics and personal care products, particularly skincare. It is an ester of polyglycerol and capric acid, derived from fatty acids. Its natural origin and mildness make it popular in product ranges for sensitive skin and eco-friendly cosmetics. This ingredient is obtained from plant oils, such as coconut or palm oil, by esterifying polyglycerol-4 with capric acid, ensuring its entirely natural character without synthetic chemicals. In organic cosmetics, it is valued as a 100 % natural, non-ionic surfactant that is biodegradable and environmentally friendly, making it ideal for certified organic products.

It works primarily through its gentle cleansing action, dissolving oils, make-up and impurities without disrupting the skin barrier, helping to hydrate the skin and prevent tightness. As a non-ionic emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions in products, combining water and oils into uniform textures, typically at concentrations of 1-5 % in cleansers and 2-10 % in emulsions. It also soothes the skin by leaving its natural lipids intact, supports hydration and helps to restore the barrier by minimising transepidermal water loss (TEWL). These properties were confirmed in a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018), in which a concentration of 3 % Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in micellar water reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of use in participants with sensitive skin, compared with a placebo.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, dehydrated and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin, where gentle cleansing without drying is essential. It is ideal for people with eczema or rosacea, as it reduces the risk of irritation. Avoid use only on extremely sensitive skin with open wounds.

It is used in micellar waters, cleansing milks, make-up-removing oils and hydrating gels, where it provides a smooth texture and effectively removes impurities while retaining moisture. Its environmentally friendly biodegradability makes it a popular choice in natural cosmetics, where it contributes to sustainable skincare without compromising on effectiveness.

Butyl oleate is a gentle, oily substance used in cosmetics as a softening emollient. It occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats, but in commercial cosmetics it is usually produced synthetically by esterifying oleic acid with butanol. It is colourless, has no strong odour and spreads easily on the skin, helping to keep it soft and smooth.

Butyl oleate works by significantly moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, forming a thin lipid film on the skin's surface that prevents water loss. It is not an active ingredient with exfoliating or antioxidant effects, but rather a supporting ingredient that improves skin comfort and softens its texture. In cosmetic formulations, it is often combined with other oils or emulsifiers to achieve the ideal feel on the skin.

Butyl oleate is particularly suitable for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin that needs extra nourishment and help locking in moisture. It is also recommended for people with mature skin, where it helps smooth fine lines and reduce feelings of tightness. It may be too oily for oily or acne-prone skin, so it is used with caution or at lower concentrations in these cases.

A study reports that oil ester-based emollients, such as butyl oleate, significantly reduce skin sensitivity after mask removal and improve its elasticity. An experimental test with oleic acid-based emollients confirmed that the skin stays hydrated for longer and is less prone to irritation (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019). Although this study does not directly examine butyl oleate, its chemical structure as an ester of oleic acid supports similar effects on the skin barrier.

Origin and key information:

This active ingredient is a 100 per cent natural multi-complex made up of fermented polysaccharides. It is produced through a biotechnological process in which polysaccharides are obtained from plant-derived sorbitol and peptone through fermentation. Under natural cosmetics standards, biotechnological processes such as microbial fermentation are considered acceptable methods for producing natural cosmetic raw materials. This makes it a highly pure and consistent natural extract, free from synthetic ingredients and genetically modified raw materials. Thanks to the macromolecular structure of its polysaccharides, it is a powerful natural moisturising agent with exceptional potential for skin care.

Function and mechanism of action:

This ingredient acts primarily as an intensive moisturising agent with immediate and long-lasting effects. Thanks to its complex polysaccharide structure, it forms a fine, impermeable film on the skin's surface, effectively protecting it from environmental influences and preventing moisture loss. It also actively restores the skin's natural moisture barrier. Its structure allows extracellular enzymes to break it down relatively easily into simpler sugars with strong moisturising properties, while it acts as a natural water-binding agent. The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing irritation and easing allergic reactions. It reduces inflammatory processes in the skin and provides a toning effect. It does not leave a shiny or greasy finish, making it suitable for problem skin too.

Clinical results and statistics:

Clinical testing has confirmed the exceptional effectiveness of this ingredient. One hour after application, skin hydration increases by 44 per cent. Three hours after application, the increase in hydration reaches 79 per cent, demonstrating a long-lasting and cumulative moisturising effect. This significant hydration is attributed to the action of skin enzymes, which accelerate the penetration of active ingredients deeper into the dermis.

Recommended skin types:

This ingredient is suitable for all skin types. It is particularly recommended for sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and supports regeneration. Its soothing effect also makes it ideal for irritated and reactive skin. It leaves the skin soft, smooth and beautifully silky, enhancing its feeling of comfort. As it leaves no stickiness or greasy shine, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. A distinctive feature of this ingredient is that it leaves no unwanted residue, keeping the skin feeling fresh and nourished.

Certification and environmental value:

This natural multi-complex is certified to prestigious international standards for natural and organic cosmetics. COSMOS Organic and ECOCERT certification guarantees that the ingredient meets the strictest requirements for natural origin and environmental sustainability. Under COSMOS certification standards, natural cosmetics must be made only from natural raw materials or materials obtained through biotechnological processes, a requirement this ingredient fully meets.

This multi-benefit complex combines the properties of L-PCA, particularly its ability to strengthen the skin barrier, with the benefits of zinc, which is widely recognised for its purifying and sebum-regulating action, as well as its anti-inflammatory, healing and immune-protective properties. The complex therefore offers the combined beauty benefits of zinc and L-PCA for skin and hair. It is a synthetically produced cosmetic ingredient in which L-PCA is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, an amino acid naturally found in the skin, obtained through biotechnological processes. Zinc is a mineral element that binds to L-PCA in this form for improved stability and penetration into the skin. The ingredient is intended for use in professional cosmetics, with an emphasis on purity and skin compatibility. It contains no natural plant extract, but has a bio-inspired composition for optimal effectiveness.

It works by regulating sebum through inhibition of the enzyme 5α-reductase, reducing sebum production and mattifying the skin. It has strong antibacterial properties, particularly against Propionibacterium acnes (C. acnes), helping to purify the skin and reduce blemishes. It also moisturises and restores the skin barrier thanks to L-PCA, which hydrates and protects skin integrity. The anti-inflammatory and healing effects of zinc soothe irritation, support the skin's immunity and optimise the penetration of other active ingredients. The recommended concentration in formulations is 0,5 to 2 % for maximum effectiveness without irritation.

We recommend it for oily, acne-prone and congested skin, where it regulates sebum and tackles blemishes. It is also suitable for sensitive and irritated skin thanks to its soothing and barrier-supporting properties. For dehydrated skin, it provides hydration without feeling heavy, while for mature skin, it supports immunity and healing. Uses include care for oily hair and scalps, mattifying products, supporting skin immunity and treating irritated areas. We do not recommend it for extremely dry skin unless combined with hydrating ingredients.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) demonstrated that Zincidone at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of C. acnes by 99,9 % after 24 hours in vitro, significantly reducing inflammatory acne lesions. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that at a concentration of 1,5 %, Zincidone reduces sebum by 42 % over 28 days in subjects with oily skin, while improving barrier function by 25 % as measured by TEWL (transepidermal water loss).

Ectoin® natural comes from a natural source – it is a bioactive molecule isolated from extremophilic microorganisms that occur naturally in hypersaline environments. This ingredient is the result of an evolutionary adaptation that allows organisms to protect their cells against extreme conditions. Ectoin belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes – natural osmoprotectants that enable cells to survive in harsh environments. Its natural origin and complex mechanism of action place it among the most advanced bioactive ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This ingredient works in several ways to restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Ectoin acts as a powerful water-binding agent, retaining water deep within the skin and increasing hydration by up to 200 percent compared with untreated skin. It also acts as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and protecting cells from damage caused by UV radiation, blue light and environmental pollution. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces inflammation and supports the repair of a damaged skin barrier, helping to soothe irritation and sensitivity.

Ectoin® natural is ideally suited to sensitive, dehydrated, stressed and mature skin. It is recommended for people with dry, irritated areas, as well as those whose skin is affected by inflammatory conditions. It also brings relief to skin exposed to intense sunlight or environmental stress. Its gentle nature means it can also be used on oily and acne-prone skin without the risk of further irritation.

Clinical studies confirm its significant effects: during a 12-day trial, skin hydration increased by up to 200 percent, and this level of hydration was maintained for a further 7 days after application stopped. After 10 days of regular use, the increased hydration level remained almost constant until day 19 of the study, highlighting its long-lasting moisturising effect.

These are microscopic, needle-like structures obtained from the silica skeletons of freshwater or marine sponges, then hydrolysed and purified. In cosmetics, they act as a physical delivery system that temporarily lodges in the outermost layers of the skin during massage. Rather than a soluble active ingredient, this is a mechanical technology that increases contact with and penetration of other ingredients.

Spicules create very fine microchannels and support surface renewal. This can increase the penetration of hydrating, brightening or anti-acne ingredients. Application often causes a prickling sensation that can last for several hours. Greater intensity is not automatically better. An excessive dose, use alongside acids or retinoids, or application to skin with a compromised barrier can lead to redness, inflammation and increased sensitivity.

They are best suited to more resilient, oily, thickened or uneven skin, and to experienced users of intensive skincare. We do not recommend them for rosacea, eczema, actively inflamed acne, open wounds or immediately after aesthetic procedures. Those with sensitive skin should choose a very low intensity or avoid this technology.

In a study using spicules from the Haliclona sponge, penetration of the antimicrobial peptide tested into the skin increased to 40,9 plus or minus 5,9 per cent, which was 6,1 times higher than with the peptide alone (Pharmaceutics, 2024). The result demonstrates a strong delivery effect, but also highlights the need for very careful formulation.

The concentration depends on size, purity and the manufacturer's recommendations. The product is applied with gentle massage and should not be layered with other irritating active ingredients. Sun protection is essential after use. The manufacturer must verify microbiological purity, particle size and the tolerability of the finished product.

With technologically advanced delivery and stimulation systems, the quality of the finished product matters more than an impressive ingredient name. The effect depends on the dose, how the ingredient is incorporated, the packaging and stability throughout the product's shelf life. Those with sensitive skin should proceed cautiously and try a new product on its own. Manufacturers should base their claims on testing of the finished formulation, not solely on data from the raw material supplier.

This water-soluble polymer is made by modifying natural cellulose. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, stabiliser and gelling agent. It has no pronounced colour or scent and allows the creation of clear to slightly opalescent serums. It is a functional ingredient in the formula, not an active botanical ingredient with a direct rejuvenating effect.

Hydroxyethylcellulose increases the viscosity of the water phase, keeps insoluble particles evenly dispersed and makes the product easier to dispense. It forms a fine film on the skin, which can reduce the feeling of roughness and help distribute hydrating or exfoliating active ingredients evenly. On its own, it does not replenish ceramides or stimulate collagen. At the right concentration, it gives the product a smooth glide, but too much can cause stringiness, stickiness or pilling.

In finished products, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as it is a non-ionic and generally well-tolerated polymer. It is useful in acid-based serums, hydrating gels, cleansers and scalp products. Suitability for a particular skin type always depends on the active ingredients and the preservative system.

Researchers used hydroxyethylcellulose as the base for a dermal hydrogel to deliver khellin and assessed its permeation and acute toxicity. The gel provided a stable carrier medium and enabled controlled delivery through the skin (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021). The study demonstrates the polymer's role as a safe carrier, not a therapeutic effect of its own.

The typical concentration is approximately 0,1 to 1,5 per cent. The powder should be dispersed slowly in water and allowed to hydrate fully to prevent lumps. The manufacturer must monitor viscosity at the target pH and compatibility with electrolytes, surfactants and high levels of active ingredients.

For the user, its benefits are mainly apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves when SPF or make-up is applied afterwards. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

Description: This ingredient is a lightweight, plant-derived ester obtained from coconut oil and fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is used as a gentle, easily spreadable alternative to heavier silicones and rich oils. It absorbs very well, leaves no greasy film and gives the skin a silky, dry and pleasantly soft feel. It is particularly popular in high-quality, naturally focused cosmetics because it improves the sensory feel of the product, softens the skin's surface and feels comfortable even with daily use. It is also biodegradable and suitable for modern formulations designed to be light, elegant and non-sticky.

Function: It acts primarily as an emollient and softening ingredient, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and support a smoother, more supple appearance. It forms a light protective film on the surface, indirectly helping dry and dehydrated skin feel more comfortable. It greatly improves the spreadability of creams, body lotions, oils and balms, while also helping to dissolve lipophilic active ingredients, such as plant extracts or essential oils. It is typically used in formulations at concentrations of approximately 1 to 20 %, depending on the desired skin feel and product type.

Recommendations: It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs softening without a heavy, greasy feel. It is also a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin when a lightweight alternative to rich oils or silicones is needed. People who prefer fast absorption, a dry finish and a pleasant, non-sticky feel may also appreciate it. It is suitable for day creams, cleansing oils, body care products, lip balms, hair serums and after-sun products.

Citations, specific figures and statistics: In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, this ester was tested in a human repeat insult patch test on 50 volunteers at a concentration of 100 %; no sensitisation or clinically significant skin irritation was observed. These results support its use in products for sensitive skin and explain why it is often used as a very well-tolerated alternative to heavier emollients.

Shikimic acid is a natural organic acid obtained from star anise (Illicium verum), an aromatic spice native to Asia, particularly Japan and China. It belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) group, and its name comes from the Japanese word "shikimi", which refers to the star anise flower. It is a biochemical metabolite found in various plants and microorganisms. Shikimic acid was first isolated in 1885 by the Dutch botanist Johann Frederik Eijkman. Before its use in cosmetics, this natural extract was primarily used in pharmaceuticals, where it serves as a precursor in the production of antiviral medicines, particularly oseltamivir (Tamiflu), used against influenza viruses.

Shikimic acid acts on the skin in several ways. Its primary action is as a powerful natural exfoliant, gently removing dead skin cells and supporting the skin's natural renewal without causing irritation. Its antioxidant properties neutralise free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress, slowing the visible signs of ageing. Shikimic acid has a strong ability to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, effectively reducing hyperpigmentation and brightening the skin. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antiviral properties, it regulates sebum production and inhibits the growth of acne-causing bacteria. Research shows that a 5% concentration of shikimic acid exhibits the same biological activity as a 50% concentration of glycolic acid, making it a highly effective yet gentle ingredient.

Shikimic acid is ideal for people with oily, acne-prone, sensitive or dehydrated skin. It is particularly recommended for those struggling with acne, enlarged pores and uneven skin tone. Its gentle properties also make it suitable for sensitive skin, as it does not usually cause irritation. It is also useful for mature skin, as its antioxidant effects help prevent and minimise wrinkles and loss of elasticity. Products containing lower concentrations (2-5%) are suitable for daily use, while higher concentrations are recommended for professional treatments. SPF protection must be used during the summer months, as the acid increases the skin's sensitivity to sunlight.

Clinical studies confirm the effectiveness of this ingredient. According to research, shikimic acid at a concentration of 1% acts as an effective deodorant and is safe for topical application at concentrations of up to 5%. Studies from Brno University of Technology show that phenolic compounds, including shikimic acid, have significant anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that slow oxidation in products and protect the skin from environmental pollutants.

Bisabolol is a natural, colourless, oily liquid extracted from the essential oil of German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita). It is a terpenoid found naturally in several plants, although chamomile is its primary source. Unlike whole chamomile extracts, bisabolol is a highly purified active substance, allowing it to deliver consistent, measurable biological activity. This natural ingredient is an ideal alternative to traditional extracts, as it retains the therapeutic properties of chamomile with minimal risk of allergic reactions. In natural cosmetics, bisabolol is used as an effective, safe ingredient suitable for all skin types.

Bisabolol acts on the skin in several ways. Its powerful anti-inflammatory properties inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators, such as leukotrienes and interleukin-1, reducing redness and irritation. As a natural antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals and slows photoageing. It also stimulates skin renewal and accelerates repair processes, strengthening the skin barrier. Bisabolol improves the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin thanks to its tenfold higher permeability compared with conventional ingredients. It acts as a conditioner on hair fibres, softening and smoothing them while promoting hair growth.

Bisabolol is an ideal solution for sensitive, dry, dehydrated, irritated and flaky skin. Its antimicrobial properties also make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, where it helps inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria. It is also recommended for mature skin showing signs of photoageing. As it is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin, it is suitable even for extremely sensitive skin types. It is used in restorative after-sun gels and products designed to soothe sunburn.

Clinical research has demonstrated the high efficacy of bisabolol: a concentration of just 1 % can reduce skin irritation by 54 %. Combined with ceramide, it accelerates epidermal cell regeneration and supports wound healing. It works synergistically with curcumin and silymarin to enhance its anti-inflammatory effect, while combining it with hyaluronic acid and panthenol enhances its hydrating and restorative effects. Recommended concentrations in skincare products range from 0,2 % to 1 %, with higher concentrations above 0,5 % potentially providing an additional brightening effect.

Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is an inorganic chemical compound produced synthetically through the electrolysis of sodium chloride. Today, it is manufactured using modern brine electrolysis, in which it is formed as a by-product of chlorine production. This strongly alkaline compound has the formula NaOH and consists of sodium ions and hydroxide anions, which are responsible for its pronounced alkaline properties.

In cosmetics, sodium hydroxide acts primarily as a pH regulator and buffering agent. Its main role is to neutralise excess acidity in products, ensuring that the finished product is balanced and safe for the skin. In chemical peels and exfoliating products, it helps break down the outer layers of the skin, allowing dead skin cells to be removed. Sodium hydroxide is also used in soap-making, where it combines with vegetable oils and fats to form the basis of bar soaps through a process called saponification. In cosmetics, it is used at very low concentrations – approximately 2 % in hair relaxers, 4,5 % in professional hair relaxers and up to pH 12,7 in hair removal products.

Sodium hydroxide is particularly recommended in products designed to care for sensitive and mature skin, where precise pH adjustment is important. It is found in shampoos, shower gels, creams, soaps and even hair removal products. People with very sensitive skin, eczema or a compromised skin barrier are advised to consult a dermatologist before use, as sodium hydroxide in its pure form is a highly corrosive substance that causes severe burns.

Most high-quality cosmetic products containing sodium hydroxide are formulated within a safe pH range of 4,5 to 5,5, which corresponds to the natural pH of human skin. These products are usually well tolerated by the skin, provided the concentration is appropriate and they are used correctly according to the instructions. In the event of a chemical burn, the affected area should be rinsed immediately with cold water and neutralised with diluted vinegar or citric acid.

This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.

In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.

It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.

A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.

During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.

Olive squalene is a luxurious ingredient and, as its name suggests, it is pure plant-derived squalene obtained from olives. It is also known as a “natural facelift” because it is similar to the lipids in human skin, allowing it to penetrate deep into skin tissue, support cell regeneration and oxygenation, hydrate, promote healing and, not least, smooth wrinkles. This ingredient comes from olives and is obtained by hydrogenating the squalene present in olive oil through environmentally friendly processes, without using animal sources or synthetic chemicals. It is a stable, plant-based alternative to animal-derived squalene that is fully compatible with organic cosmetics and supports sustainable production. Thanks to its structure, which is identical to human lipids, it absorbs exceptionally well without clogging pores, making it an ideal base for nourishing products.

It works primarily by intensely moisturising the skin and restoring its barrier, replenishing the skin’s natural lipids and preventing transepidermal water loss. As a powerful antioxidant, it protects cells from free radicals and supports tissue regeneration and oxygenation, helping to smooth wrinkles and improve elasticity. It also soothes irritation and speeds up healing, without exfoliating effects. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 5-20 %, with 10 % significantly increasing hydration without leaving a greasy film.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively combats loss of elasticity and wrinkles. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it is non-comedogenic and regulates the sebaceous glands without clogging pores. Thanks to its hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for all age groups, including children and pregnant women. It has a soothing effect on sensitive skin with eczema or irritation, while helping to prevent signs of ageing in mature skin.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that olive squalene at a concentration of 10 % increased skin hydration by 45 % and improved skin barrier recovery by 30 % after 4 weeks of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that applying 5 % olive-derived squalene reduced lipid peroxidation in the skin by 25 % and improved elasticity by 20 % over 8 weeks, confirming its antioxidant and regenerative effects.

dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.

Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.

This sodium salt of hyaluronic acid is produced through biotechnological fermentation and then processed to achieve a low molecular weight. The smaller chains spread more easily within the surface layers of the skin and form a less noticeable sticky film. The ingredient is water-soluble and is used in concentrated hydrating and smoothing serums.

Supreme HyalRelift binds water, supports the suppleness of the stratum corneum and may visibly soften fine lines caused by dehydration. The low-molecular-weight form penetrates the epidermis better than very large chains, but it is not an injectable filler and does not create lasting volume. At high concentrations, it can feel sticky or increase tightness in dry climates, so it is combined with emollients and an occlusive layer.

We recommend it for dehydrated, dry, mature and oily skin. It is suitable for use under a light moisturiser and in after-sun products. For very sensitive or inflamed skin, a carefully formulated low dose should be used, as very small hyaluronate fragments may stimulate inflammatory signals under certain conditions.

A clinical study using 0,1 per cent formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights showed significant improvements in hydration and elasticity with all variants. After 60 days, the 50 and 130 kDa forms significantly reduced wrinkle depth compared with placebo (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2011). This finding supports the importance of low molecular weight for smoothing the skin.

The active concentration is usually around 0,05 to 0,2 per cent, depending on molecular weight and purity. The powder must be hydrated slowly in water without forming lumps. When combining several types of hyaluronate, stickiness, viscosity and microbiological stability need to be monitored.

In your daily routine, it is worth assessing longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight during the day. In dry climates, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the water it retains. The result therefore depends on the whole formula, consistent use and gentle cleansing, rather than on a single high concentration. Regular application in appropriate amounts is also important.

100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.

It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.

A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.