Hair oil - fermented

This is a blend of five plant oils processed through yeast fermentation. It is based on argan, camellia, tea seed, sunflower and sweet almond oils. The biotechnological process increases the proportion of free fatty acids and changes the sensory properties so that the oil spreads more easily along the hair fibre without leaving an overly heavy coating.

Fermented hair oil coats damaged areas of the cuticle, reduces friction and helps hair look smoother, shinier and less frizzy. The lipids limit excessive moisture loss and improve the elasticity of dry lengths. However, they do not permanently repair the biologically dead hair fibre. The effect is cosmetic and protective, so it is most noticeable as improved slip, easier detangling and less breakage from mechanical stress.

This ingredient is primarily intended for dry, porous, curly, colour-treated and heat-stressed hair. In small amounts, it may also suit fine hair if applied only to the lengths. It should be used with care on an oily scalp. Anyone allergic to almonds or other ingredients in the blend should carry out a patch test.

Supplier testing of Fermentoil Hair Complex reports an increase in hair fibre tensile strength of approximately 24,3 per cent and improvements in texture, shine and frizz control (Fermentoil Hair Complex Technical Study). As these are technical data for the raw ingredient, the performance of the final shampoo, mask or serum must be confirmed by testing the finished formula.

It is used in conditioners, masks, leave-in serums and oils, usually at concentrations of approximately 0,5 to 10 per cent. It is added at a lower temperature and protected from oxidation. Higher concentrations can weigh down fine hair, so a balance with lightweight emollients is important.

Its effects on hair are assessed mainly through ease of detangling, shine, frizz and how the ends feel. A small amount is applied to the lengths, rather than automatically to the roots. Fine hair needs a smaller amount, while dry and curly hair can tolerate more. Results also depend on hair porosity, the shampoo used and damage caused by heat or colouring.