Pullulan

Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide produced through fermentation by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. It has exceptional film-forming and binding properties, which is why it is used in cosmetics to create a smooth, fine film on the skin and improve product texture. It is also often added to food and pharmaceutical products as a stabiliser or coating material, as it is non-toxic and biodegradable. This polysaccharide is obtained through an environmentally friendly biotechnological process, similar to the production of hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation. Its molecular structure consists of glucose units linked by alpha-1,4 and alpha-1,6 bonds, giving it high viscosity and elasticity. Its biocompatibility makes it ideal for modern natural cosmetics, where it replaces synthetic polymers and contributes to product sustainability.

Pullulan acts as an excellent humectant and film-forming agent, creating a protective film on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss and restore the skin barrier. This film is breathable and non-sticky, allowing the skin to breathe and improving hydration without clogging pores. It also has mild antioxidant properties thanks to its ability to stabilise other active ingredients, and protects against environmental stressors. It does not exfoliate, but soothes the skin with its gentle texture. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 0,5 to 2 per cent, with 1 % significantly improving the sensory properties of gels and serums.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it strengthens the barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss. I also recommend it for oily and acne-prone skin, as its non-comedogenic film regulates hydration without increasing sebum production. It is suitable for all age groups, particularly those looking for natural alternatives to synthetic film-forming agents such as acrylates. In anti-ageing products, it supports smoothness and elasticity.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) demonstrated that pullulan at a concentration of 1 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2020) confirmed that pullulan improves the penetration of active ingredients by 35 % thanks to its film-forming properties (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2020). These data highlight its efficacy in clinical tests.