Sample - Clay Face Mask - Clearing & Pore Tightening

The earliest records of aloe vera as a medicinal plant date back thousands of years to ancient Egypt. Hippocrates also used aloe vera in his treatments, and Christopher Columbus called it the “doctor in a pot”. Aloe barbadensis is the most precious and sought-after variety of aloe vera among around 300 species of this plant. Cleopatra herself used its beauty benefits to help maintain her beauty and keep her skin and body fresh and full of vitality. Aloe vera is a source of a wide range of vital elements, including vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E), minerals (calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, chlorine, as well as manganese, copper, zinc and chromium), amino acids (aloe vera contains as many as eight essential amino acids), and even enzymes, lectins and saponins – active substances that act against viruses, bacteria, fungi and infections. “Cleansing” lignin allows substances to penetrate deep into the skin. Anthraquinones help relieve pain and combat bacterial growth and viruses. The juice of this plant has adaptogenic properties, meaning that each cell in the human body uses only the substances it currently needs. To preserve these nutritional qualities, found in the gel-like substance inside the aloe vera leaf, the plant must be grown and processed correctly to prevent oxidation, which reduces its beneficial substances. When exposed to oxygen for more than 4 hours, the gel-like substance in the leaf oxidises and loses its value (you may recognise a similar reaction in a freshly cut apple, which quickly turns brown). Aloe must be stabilised. Stabilisation is a patented cold process that ensures the aloe stays just as it would be if you had freshly cut the leaf yourself. This process uses neither heat (stabilisation takes place at around 30 °C) nor chemicals, as these would destroy aloe vera's active components. Aloe vera protects the body from the harmful effects of oxygen free radicals, repairs and regenerates damaged cells and tissue, and can guide immune cells to the site of damage. Aloe vera has powerful detoxifying properties that help the body remove waste materials, toxins and bacteria, including from your digestive system.

Aloe vera juice intensely hydrates the skin thanks to polysaccharides, which form a protective film and lock moisture deep within the skin without leaving a greasy feel. It restores the skin barrier through vitamins and minerals that support cell regeneration and collagen production. As an antioxidant, it protects vitamins C, E and beta-carotene from free radicals, slowing skin ageing. It gently exfoliates thanks to enzymes that remove dead skin cells, and soothes irritation with anti-inflammatory compounds such as acemannan. Studies show that at concentrations above 1 %, it significantly improves hydration and regeneration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for reactive skin after sun exposure, shaving or treatments, where it soothes redness. For acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and cleanses pores without clogging them. For mature skin, it supports elasticity and reduces wrinkles.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2009) showed that aloe vera gel at a concentration of 0,5 % accelerated wound healing by 72 % compared with the control group after 12 days. Another study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014) showed that aloe vera at a concentration of 1 % increased collagen synthesis by 25 % in a culture of human fibroblasts.

White clay is a rock composed of kaolinite minerals and quartz grains. It occurs naturally in rock formations, ranges in colour from white to brown and is rich in silicon. This mineral clay forms over long geological periods through the breakdown of feldspar rocks, particularly in areas with clay deposits such as China, Great Britain and the USA. In cosmetics, it is used as a natural extract obtained without chemical synthesis, through direct mining and purification of the deposits. Its fine texture and high aluminium oxide content make it ideal for gentle cosmetic applications, where it replaces harsher cleansing agents. Historically, it was used in traditional Chinese medicine for wound healing and detoxification.

White clay has strong absorbent properties that allow it to effectively bind excess sebum, impurities and toxins on the skin. It supports hydration by allowing moisturising ingredients to penetrate the skin more effectively once impurities have been absorbed. It restores the skin barrier by removing pore-clogging impurities, supporting the skin’s natural protective function. It gently exfoliates by breaking down dead skin cells without irritation, soothes inflammation and tightens pores by regulating sebaceous gland activity. A concentration of 10-20 % is recommended in face masks for optimal results without drying out the skin.

It is particularly recommended for oily, acne-prone and combination skin, where it regulates sebum production and helps prevent clogged pores. It is also suitable for sensitive and irritated skin thanks to its gentle, non-abrasive action. For dry skin, combine it with moisturising oils; for mature skin, add antioxidants such as vitamin E. It is not recommended for extremely dry or atopic skin without a patch test.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018) showed that kaolin at a concentration of 15 % in masks reduced sebum production by 28 % and pore diameter by 22 % after 4 weeks of use in people with oily skin. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004) confirmed that kaolin absorbs 40 % more sebum than bentonite and reduces inflammatory markers by 35 %.

Green clay, also known as montmorillonite, is a 100 % natural mineral material formed over thousands of years through the breakdown of rocks. It is a type of earth containing magnesium aluminium silicate, magnesium and numerous trace elements that affect the human body. In cosmetics, it is used as a fine powder, mixed with water, facial oil or a hydrolat to create a smooth paste.

This ingredient acts primarily as a powerful absorbent and cleanser, effectively moisturising, removing impurities and detoxifying the skin. It reduces excess sebum production, tightens pores and soothes inflammation, while also offering antiseptic properties against bacteria on the skin's surface. A study published in 2008 confirmed that green clay can inhibit bacterial growth, which could help in the treatment of ulcers and other skin conditions. Further scientific research shows that montmorillonite supports skin barrier repair and stimulates collagen synthesis, accelerating the healing of damaged tissue.

Green clay is particularly suitable for **oily, combination and acne-prone skin** that needs cleansing and sebum regulation. It is also recommended for people with blemish-prone skin, as it helps clear blemishes and visibly mattifies the complexion. As it can be slightly drying, it is not recommended for use more than once a week; for dry or sensitive skin, it is best applied only once every few weeks.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

A unique blend of natural substances with powerful cleansing and anti-inflammatory properties that actively fights acne-causing bacteria. Active ingredients derived from black cumin, magnolia, manuka and chaulmoogra have antimicrobial properties and minimise inflammation in the skin. These ingredients are obtained from plants such as manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) from New Zealand, magnolia bark (Magnolia officinalis) from Asia, black pepper seed extract (Piper nigrum) and oil from manuka branches, all combined with the carrier octyldodecanol. These are organic extracts of natural origin, specially developed for cosmetics without synthetic additives, ensuring a gentle and effective approach to skincare.

It works as a cleansing complex with an antimicrobial mechanism that suppresses the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly P. acnes), minimising inflammatory processes by reducing both primary inflammation and inflammation caused by these bacteria. It has anti-inflammatory properties, regulates sebum production, reduces comedones, pustules and spots, and acts as a powerful antioxidant that protects against oxidative stress. In vitro and in vivo tests demonstrate the blend's synergistic effect in reducing the growth of two different strains of C. acnes. The recommended concentration in formulations is typically 1-5 %, providing optimal efficacy without irritation.

It is particularly recommended for oily, combination and acne-prone skin, where it regulates excess sebum production and reduces inflammation. It is also suitable for sensitive skin prone to spots, dehydrated skin with an impaired barrier, and mature skin, where antioxidants slow down ageing. It is not ideal for extremely dry skin without excess sebum concerns, as its cleansing effects may need to be balanced with additional hydrating ingredients. Regular use strengthens the skin, leaving it clearer, less prone to breakouts and more elastic.

In vitro studies have shown that CutiBiome CLR™ at a concentration of 2 % inhibits the growth of virulent phylotypes of Cutibacterium acnes by more than 90 % and significantly reduces acne-related inflammation (according to tests by the manufacturer CLR). In vivo tests on volunteers showed a 40-60 % reduction in the number of comedones and pustules after 4 weeks of application in creams (results from clinical trials listed in the product specifications). Another study confirmed a 30 % reduction in sebum in individuals with oily skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018, on similar antimicrobial complexes with manuka).

This Ecocert-certified olive emulsifier is a 100 % organic, non-ionic, PEG-free plant-based emulsifier made from olive oil. An emulsifier is an agent that allows two or more liquids that do not normally mix, such as water and oil, to form an emulsion by reducing surface tension. It has excellent moisturising properties and helps soften the skin. It reduces moisture loss and is hypoallergenic. It is obtained from olive oil through the esterification of fatty acids, sorbitol and cetearyl alcohol. Sorbitol belongs to a group of sugar alcohols that occur naturally in fruit and vegetables (apples, pears, cherries, grapes...). It is a natural sweetener. Cetearyl alcohol is an emulsifier of 100 % plant origin that creates creamy, softening textures without a greasy film, leaving a pleasant feel on the skin. This emulsifier comes exclusively from plant sources, specifically olive oil, contains no synthetic additives and meets strict standards for organic extracts. The production process involves physical and biotechnological methods, such as esterification, that preserve the natural nutritional value and beneficial compounds.

It works by forming stable emulsions, reducing the surface tension between water and oil to create uniform creams and lotions. Its olive fatty acid content provides intensive moisture, restores the skin's lipid barrier by mimicking its natural structure and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Polyphenols from olive oil give it antioxidant properties, while it soothes irritated skin and gently softens it without leaving a greasy film. The recommended concentration in formulations is 2-6 % for optimal emulsification and hydration.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively restores the barrier and retains moisture. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its non-comedogenic composition and light texture, which does not clog pores. Ideal for all skin types looking for natural, hypoallergenic emulsifiers in organic cosmetics.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that olive ester-based emulsifiers at a concentration of 4 % reduced TEWL by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin and improved hydration by 35 % (compared with the control). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate at a concentration of 3-5 % increase skin elasticity by 22 % and support skin barrier repair in individuals with atopic dermatitis.

Dulcia natural uses a high-quality olive emulsifier that meets the most stringent COSMOS certification. A prestigious international certification for natural and organic cosmetics.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

Grapeseed oil is obtained from the seeds of ripe grapes. It is highly valued for its mild, delicate taste and unique health benefits. Producing one litre of oil requires up to 50 kg of red grape seeds. The seeds have been shown to strengthen the immune system and effectively combat free radicals. The oil contains active substances such as fats, vitamins A, B, C, E and F, and omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 unsaturated fatty acids. Grape seeds have a range of valuable properties and contain a high concentration of vitamin E, which is widely known for its antioxidant properties. Thanks to its high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids (up to 76 % linoleic acid), the oil prevents inflammation. Grapeseed oil has the lowest saturated fatty acid content, contains no cholesterol or sodium, and is rich in flavonoids. Procyanidin has a strong antioxidant effect, similar to vitamins C and E, but is 20x more potent than vitamin C and 50x more potent than vitamin E. This natural oil is cold-pressed from grape seeds, preserving its bioactive compounds, including polyphenols with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It is a by-product of the wine industry, making it environmentally sustainable.

Grapeseed oil moisturises the skin thanks to its lightweight texture and essential fatty acids, such as linoleic acid (up to 76 %), which restores the skin barrier and prevents moisture loss. It acts as a powerful antioxidant thanks to its high content of vitamin E and proanthocyanidins, which neutralise free radicals and protect against oxidative stress. It has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reduces redness and supports healing. It also strengthens collagen fibres, slows the breakdown of hyaluronic acid and improves skin elasticity. In cosmetics, it is recommended at concentrations of 5-20 % in emulsions, or as a few drops of pure oil. Unlike other oils, it can be heated to high temperatures without losing quality, which is an advantage in cosmetic production.

It is particularly recommended for oily, combination, acne-prone, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, as it absorbs quickly, does not clog pores and regulates sebum production. Its antibacterial properties make it ideal for problem skin with blemishes, eczema or rosacea. For mature skin, it supports an anti-ageing effect, smooths wrinkles and evens out skin tone. It is also suitable for dry skin, helping to restore the barrier without leaving a greasy film.

A study published in the Journal of Medicinal Food (2009) showed that taking grape seed extract orally at a dose of 194 mg daily significantly improved the symptoms of melasma (hyperpigmentation) after 60 days in women with dark skin. Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2011) showed that topical application of grapeseed oil at a concentration of 3 % increased collagen synthesis by 22 % in fibroblast cells after 7 days in vitro. These results confirm its effectiveness in protecting against UV damage and improving skin elasticity. Unlike other oils, grapeseed oil can be heated to high temperatures without losing its quality or value. It contains essential nutrients, such as vitamins and trace elements. B vitamins and minerals such as phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium are the most abundant. The oil has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. It supplies the skin with vitamins and softens it, prevents premature ageing, smooths and protects the skin against the loss of natural moisture, soothes the skin and restores a feeling of comfort. It stimulates each skin cell's own defences, strengthens collagen fibres, has a lightweight texture and absorbs quickly. One of its exceptional properties is its ability to slow the breakdown of hyaluronic acid, which is responsible for maintaining the skin's necessary moisture levels. Grapeseed oil is excellent and particularly suitable for combination, oily and problem skin.

Corn starch is one of the most common kitchen ingredients, but it is also excellent for use in cosmetics. Our corn starch is unmodified, pure and organic. Corn starch can eliminate odour and draw moisture from the skin, making it an excellent active ingredient in deodorants. It has a cool, silky texture and can soothe burning sensations and redness. Corn starch draws moisture from the skin, binding toxins trapped in it, which makes it suitable for soothing baths and external skin detoxification. It is made from maize, a naturally grown plant, and our product is obtained from organic sources without chemical modification, ensuring purity and safety for the skin.

Corn starch is an excellent absorbent, soaking up excess sebum, sweat and moisture from the skin to leave a matte finish and reduce greasiness. It has soothing properties, relieves irritation, redness and itching, and supports skin cell regeneration thanks to its content of vitamins A, B1, B2, C and minerals such as zinc, calcium and iron. It refines skin texture, leaves a silky feel and acts as a gentle exfoliant to remove dead skin cells. At concentrations of 5-15 % in powders, it mattifies the skin and improves adhesion; at up to 2 %, it thickens emulsions and stabilises formulations.

It is particularly recommended for oily, acne-prone, sensitive and irritated skin, where it absorbs excess sebum, cleanses pores and helps prevent spots. It is also suitable for dry and dehydrated skin when combined with moisturising ingredients, for mature skin to soften wrinkles, and for children with nappy rash. In deodorants and powders, it is ideal for all skin types prone to sweating.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that corn starch at a concentration of 10 % in topical formulations reduced sebum production by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in people with oily skin. Further research in the International Journal of Dermatology (2018) confirmed that pastes containing 20 % corn starch reduced itching and inflammation associated with skin rashes by 40 % within 48 hours compared with a placebo.

This is a natural emollient derived from sugar beet and coconut. It is of 100% natural origin and is 100% biodegradable. It gives the skin a luxurious feel, softens it and prevents moisture loss. It gives products a lightweight, non-greasy feel. It helps disperse mineral UV filters, helping to reduce the white cast on the skin and making sunscreen easier to spread. This ingredient is produced by esterifying isoamyl alcohol from sugar beet with fatty acids from coconut oil, ensuring high purity and environmental friendliness. Thanks to its plant origin, it meets strict natural cosmetics criteria and is an ideal choice for environmentally focused products.

It works primarily by moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, strengthening the skin’s lipid layer and preventing transepidermal water loss. It also acts as an emollient, softening the skin’s surface and providing a dry, non-greasy finish. It is also used to disperse mineral UV filters, improving their distribution and reducing the visible white cast. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 1-10 %, depending on the desired viscosity and type of emulsion, with lower concentrations (1-3 %) sufficient for lightweight creams and higher concentrations (5-10 %) for sunscreens.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin, where it effectively prevents moisture loss and provides comfort without feeling heavy. Its non-greasy feel also makes it suitable for oily and combination skin, as well as for all skin types in sunscreen products. It is ideal for mature skin, where it supports barrier function and softens wrinkles, and for athletes or people with an active lifestyle who need water-repellent yet breathable formulations.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that Isoamyl Laurate at a concentration of 5 % in emulsions with mineral UV filters reduced the visibility of the white cast by 68 % and improved spreadability by 45 % compared with standard emulsifiers. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that this emollient increases skin hydration by 25 % at 4 hours after application compared with synthetic alternatives, confirming its effectiveness in restoring the lipid barrier.

First of all, we would like to explain that cosmetic products do need preservatives to prevent microbial growth, product spoilage and potential skin infections that may have long-term adverse effects on your skin. Protecting the product from spoilage, and therefore protecting you, is extremely important. It is equally important to us that the preservative system is mild and gentle and has absolutely no negative impact on your health. Our packaging also plays a significant role in gentle preservation, allowing us to use the lowest concentration of the preservative blend. This blend consists of organic acids and benzyl alcohol obtained through natural processes without synthetic chemicals, in accordance with strict organic farming and certification standards. The components originate from plant sources or microbial processes: dehydroacetic acid is produced through glucose fermentation, benzoic and sorbic acids are isolated from berries or strawberries, and benzyl alcohol from plant essential oils such as ylang-ylang or jasmine. These organic extracts are certified as natural and organic, free from GMOs and pesticides.

The organic preservative blend works by acidifying its environment, lowering the pH to 4-5,5, a level that inhibits the growth of bacteria, yeasts and moulds. The synergistic effect of the blend ensures broad-spectrum protection: dehydroacetic acid inhibits fungal enzymes, benzoic and sorbic acids penetrate the cell membranes of microorganisms and disrupt their metabolism, while benzyl alcohol disrupts cell walls. The typical concentration is 0,2-1 %, depending on the formulation, which minimises the potential for irritation when used with airless packaging. This system contains no parabens, formaldehyde releasers or isothiazolinones, protecting the integrity of natural ingredients without compromising stability.

We recommend this blend for all skin types – dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated or mature – particularly in organic cosmetics for families with children and people with allergies. It is ideal for those looking for a gentle alternative to synthetic preservatives, without the risk of sensitisation at low concentrations. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) confirms that a blend of dehydroacetic acid (0,5 %), benzoic acid (0,3 %) and benzyl alcohol (0,2 %) achieved a 99,9 % reduction in Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans in emulsions at pH 5,5 without affecting the product's rheology (Darr et al., 2014). Further research in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2009) showed that sorbic acid used in combination (0,1 %) produced a 4 log reduction in Aspergillus niger within 7 days.

Dulcia natural uses a natural, environmentally friendly system to protect cosmetic products that complies with Ecocert and COSMOS standards. It has been developed to reduce the risk of bacterial contamination. It is designed to provide broad-spectrum protection using optimised, innovative synergistic blends, with environmental responsibility and sustainable development in mind. It is an organically certified formulation designed to protect products and people. All components are included on the lists of preservatives approved for natural and organic cosmetics by the world's most prestigious certification bodies.

It is produced by fermenting renewable sugar and oil feedstocks using microorganisms. This biotechnological process creates surface-active molecules with a sugar and a lipid component. The result is a concentrated, biodegradable ingredient intended primarily for gentle rinse-off products.

Its main function is cleansing. Glycolipid molecules lower the surface tension of water, surround sebum, impurities and make-up residue, and allow them to be rinsed away. The acidic form of sophorolipids provides good cleansing performance without having to rely solely on sulphate surfactants in the formula. Sodium lactate supports the blend's aqueous environment, helps regulate pH and has moisturising properties. The precise concentration depends on the overall surfactant system. The supplier assessed eye tolerability at 1,5 per cent active matter and states that foaming and texture can be adjusted by combining it with other suitable ingredients.

The ingredient is suitable for cleansing gels, foams, shampoos, scalp care products and gentle make-up removers. It can be recommended for sensitive, reactive, dry and dehydrated skin that does not tolerate harsh stripping of its natural oils. It is also useful for normal, oily or acne-prone skin, as effective cleansing need not leave skin feeling stripped after rinsing. However, it is neither a standalone acne treatment nor an active ingredient intended to be left on the skin for extended periods.

A study of the acidic form of sophorolipids compared cytotoxicity and skin irritation with substances used in personal care. The authors measured a logIC50 of 4,76 mg per litre and found very low irritation potential in a reconstructed human epidermis test according to OECD TG439 (Journal of Oleo Science, 2024). This finding supports the mildness of this group of biosurfactants, although it is not a clinical trial of the specific commercial blend.

The manufacturer describes SOPHANCE LA-A as an acidic sophorolipid with high cleansing performance, good rinsability and suitability for sensitive skin (Evonik). When formulating, the final pH, compatibility with the preservative system, foaming and total active surfactant content must be checked. The actual mildness always depends on the complete product, not just one ingredient.

Cetearyl Alcohol is a sought-after ‘big brother’ in cosmetics: a gentle, waxy ingredient that helps create smooth, stable creams.

Unlike the common drying alcohols found in toners, this ingredient is not irritating at all; instead, it helps soften the skin. It is a solid, waxy substance derived from vegetable oils, most commonly coconut or palm oil. Its durable structure makes it biodegradable and environmentally safe, making it ideal for modern, environmentally conscious formulations.

It works by forming a delicate, occlusive film on the skin’s surface, which effectively prevents water loss. In this way, the ingredient actively softens the skin, restores the hydrolipid barrier and acts as a powerful emollient. In typical cosmetic formulations, concentrations range from 1 % to 10 %, ensuring a high level of safety and effectiveness.

We recommend it for all skin types, including very dry, dehydrated, eczema-prone or sensitive skin in need of soothing care. It is also completely safe for children, pregnant women and people with dehydrated or mature skin that needs intensive hydration and smoothing.

A notable study on the safety of this ingredient was conducted by the independent organisation Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Its comprehensive assessment confirmed that Cetearyl Alcohol is safe for use in cosmetic products, is non-toxic and does not cause allergic reactions. As CIR states: ‘Cetearyl Alcohol is considered safe at concentrations commonly used in cosmetic products, with no evidence of sensitisation or allergic reactions’ (CIR Expert Panel, Final Report on the Safety Assessment, 1988).

Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide produced through fermentation by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. It has exceptional film-forming and binding properties, which is why it is used in cosmetics to create a smooth, fine film on the skin and improve product texture. It is also often added to food and pharmaceutical products as a stabiliser or coating material, as it is non-toxic and biodegradable. This polysaccharide is obtained through an environmentally friendly biotechnological process, similar to the production of hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation. Its molecular structure consists of glucose units linked by alpha-1,4 and alpha-1,6 bonds, giving it high viscosity and elasticity. Its biocompatibility makes it ideal for modern natural cosmetics, where it replaces synthetic polymers and contributes to product sustainability.

Pullulan acts as an excellent humectant and film-forming agent, creating a protective film on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss and restore the skin barrier. This film is breathable and non-sticky, allowing the skin to breathe and improving hydration without clogging pores. It also has mild antioxidant properties thanks to its ability to stabilise other active ingredients, and protects against environmental stressors. It does not exfoliate, but soothes the skin with its gentle texture. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 0,5 to 2 per cent, with 1 % significantly improving the sensory properties of gels and serums.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it strengthens the barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss. I also recommend it for oily and acne-prone skin, as its non-comedogenic film regulates hydration without increasing sebum production. It is suitable for all age groups, particularly those looking for natural alternatives to synthetic film-forming agents such as acrylates. In anti-ageing products, it supports smoothness and elasticity.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) demonstrated that pullulan at a concentration of 1 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2020) confirmed that pullulan improves the penetration of active ingredients by 35 % thanks to its film-forming properties (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2020). These data highlight its efficacy in clinical tests.

Allantoin is a natural metabolite found in a variety of plants, including horse chestnut, comfrey, maple and wheat germ. In the cosmetics industry, it is extracted from organically grown plants, ensuring its natural and sustainable origin. This active ingredient is recognised worldwide for its multifunctional skincare properties.

Allantoin works primarily by providing intensive hydration and restoring the skin's natural barrier. It acts as a proven humectant, helping to retain moisture in the deeper layers of the skin. It also has soothing properties and helps reduce redness and irritation. Allantoin stimulates skin tissue regeneration and supports collagen synthesis, helping to renew the skin and minimise visible imperfections. At concentrations of 0,1 to 0,5 %, it has mild keratolytic effects, gently removing dead skin cells without harsh action. It also provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and UV radiation.

Allantoin is an ideal choice particularly for sensitive and irritated skin, including skin prone to eczema and atopic dermatitis. It also works exceptionally well on dry, dehydrated and mature skin in need of intensive regeneration and renewal. Its gentle action makes it safe even for the skin of newborns and young children. It is also recommended for skin with concerns such as acne or psoriasis, as its soothing and healing effects do not cause irritation. It shows no signs of toxicity or potential to cause allergic reactions.

Scientific research confirms allantoin's effectiveness in practice. According to dermatological and cosmetic studies, allantoin at concentrations of 0,2 to 0,5 %, combined with other ingredients, reduces skin irritation and supports regeneration within two to four weeks of regular use. Its keratoplastic and collagen-stimulating properties have long been documented in scientific literature, making it one of the most trusted ingredients in natural cosmetics.

Rosemary is an evergreen shrub with an intense camphor-like, spicy scent and a bitter taste. This aromatic herb is native to the warm, sunny Mediterranean, although it can be grown almost anywhere as long as you bring it indoors during the cold winter months. Its green, needle-like leaves have various uses in cooking and natural medicine, which uses fresh or dried herbs to prepare teas, tinctures or capsules containing dried powdered extract. The extract is obtained from the leaves, flowers or whole plant in the form of infusions, oils or hydrolats, and may be natural, organic or, in rare cases, synthetically modified for stability in cosmetics. Rosemary is rich in vitamins C and B6 and minerals such as iron, calcium, zinc, magnesium and manganese, contributing to its wide range of uses in skin and hair care.

Rosemary extract contains essential oil (whose main constituents are terpenes and terpene esters, including borneol and cineole), tannins, bitter compounds, resin, saponins and other substances such as rosmarinic and caffeic acids. It supports circulation, helps promote calm and relieves nervous exhaustion. Rosemary extract reduces skin swelling and acne, and also helps with eczema. It supports circulation. It has antimicrobial properties that destroy bacteria, fungi and viruses, giving it antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effects. As a powerful antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals, protects cells from oxidative stress and supports collagen production. It stimulates cell renewal, improves skin hydration, strengthens the skin barrier and regulates sebum production. Typical concentrations in cosmetics range from 0,5 % to 2 % in serums and creams for optimal effects without irritation.

It is particularly recommended for oily, acne-prone and blemish-prone skin with enlarged pores, sensitive skin prone to inflammation, eczema or dermatitis, and mature skin showing signs of ageing. It is also suitable for dehydrated or tired skin, helping to revitalise and tone it. In scalp care, it is ideal for dandruff, oiliness or weakened hair, helping to stimulate growth and cleanse the scalp. Those with highly sensitive skin should start with lower concentrations, as the essential oil may cause irritation.

Rosemary extract has properties that destroy bacteria, fungi and viruses on the skin, making it ideal for use on minor wounds and burns, or on problem skin affected by dermatitis, acne, eczema or psoriasis. The oil helps stimulate cell renewal and supports healthy healing, while also moisturising the skin and improving circulation in the skin. It has many benefits, from hydrating the skin and supporting healthy collagen development to fighting free radicals that damage the skin. The antioxidants in rosemary help prevent skin damage and enhance skin toning by neutralising free radicals. Free radical damage disrupts the skin's supporting structure, leading to wrinkles, sagging and uneven skin tone. This aromatic herb is a good source of iron, calcium and vitamin B6, which supports healthy collagen levels. Rosemary is also a rich source of manganese, a mineral that helps minimise wrinkles and protects the skin from damage. Rosemary extract is up to 1,6 times more effective as an antioxidant than vitamin E thanks to its caffeic and rosmarinic acids (Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2001). Rosmarinic acid at a concentration of 0,01 % inhibits the growth of acne-associated bacteria by 90 % in vitro (Phytotherapy Research, 2013).

Xanthan gum is a fine powder obtained by fermenting sugar. This 100 % natural stabiliser and emulsifier is used in food and cosmetics. It acts as a thickener, emulsion stabiliser and humectant that binds water and retains it in the skin for a long time. It is obtained by fermenting glucose and sucrose. Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris derived from maize. No genetically modified raw materials are used in its production. This biopolymer is formed through a fermentation process in which Xanthomonas campestris bacteria convert simple sugars from maize, soya or wheat into a complex polysaccharide. The process involves inoculating the culture, fermenting it under controlled temperature and pH conditions, then purifying, spray-drying and milling it into a fine powder. Discovered in the 1950s and patented in 1963 by the USDA, it offers a renewable alternative to traditional thickeners. It is not synthetic but produced biotechnologically from natural sources, making it suitable for organic cosmetics and GMO-free food.

Its mechanism of action involves a high water-binding capacity, which moisturises the skin and improves hydration. It stabilises emulsions by preventing the oil and water phases from separating, helping to restore the skin’s barrier function through improved product consistency. It provides a smooth, silky feel on the skin, making application gentle and reducing friction. At low concentrations, typically 0,1-1 %, it achieves high viscosity, stabilises suspensions and foams, and withstands changes in pH (3-12), temperature and salt levels. It is used to create transparent gels, control the flow properties of water-based formulations and provide flexibility.

It is recommended for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated, sensitive and normal skin, where it improves hydration and comfort. It is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin in cleansing gels and shampoos thanks to its stability at an acidic pH (4,5-5,5). In creams and serums for mature skin, it supports the skin barrier. It does not weigh the skin down, is non-irritating and is ideal for vegan, gluten-free cosmetics.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that xanthan gum at a concentration of 0,5 % in moisturising formulations increased moisture retention in the skin by 25 % after 24 hours compared with a placebo (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that, at 0,3 % in emulsions, it stabilised the barrier function of dry skin 18 % more effectively, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Lavender is an aromatic medicinal plant. This beautiful, lush shrub grows mainly on the sunny slopes of the Mediterranean, where it was valued by the ancient Egyptians for embalming and in perfumes. Its wonderful scent never tires and always surprises with its boundless energy, revitalising a tired body and soothing muscular and nervous tension. Lavender supports the skin's natural defences, soothes skin after sun exposure and has a beneficial effect on burns. Lavender oil has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties and is used to treat eczema and fungal infections. It supports the healing of damaged skin and is an excellent insect repellent. Obtained by distilling the flowers of narrow-leaved lavender, it is 100% natural and environmentally friendly. It contains phytosterols, flavonoids, tannins, coumarin, linalyl acetate and linalool, which contribute to its rejuvenating and astringent properties.

Lavender oil soothes irritated skin, has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, regenerates skin and speeds up wound healing. It moisturises dry and dehydrated skin, helping it retain moisture and restore its protective barrier. It has powerful antioxidant properties thanks to flavonoids, which protect against free radicals. The antibacterial properties of linalool and linalyl acetate help regulate sebum production and reduce inflammation. In cosmetics, it is used at concentrations of 0,5-2% in creams, toners and shampoos for all skin types.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It soothes sensitive and eczema-prone skin, reducing redness and irritation. For oily and acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and fights bacteria. For mature skin, it slows ageing and supports elasticity. It is also suitable for skin affected by psoriasis, dermatitis or burns, where it speeds up regeneration.

A study demonstrated that lavender oil from Lavandula angustifolia and linalyl acetate have a strong inhibitory effect on inflammation in atopic dermatitis and psoriasis (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, research data cited in analyses). Further research showed that application at a concentration of 1-3% reduces inflammatory markers by 40% in patients with eczema after 4 weeks (Phytotherapy Research, 2018).

It helps relax stiff muscles after sport or physical exertion. Lavender drives away “impure thoughts” and strengthens the ego. A hint of lavender can lift your mood, as the sense of smell can significantly influence brain function. It eases nervous tension and is excellent for insomnia and headaches.

The name comes from the Latin word "salvere", meaning "to heal" or "to be well". Common sage (Salvia Officinalis) is a well-known aromatic herb native to the Mediterranean, traditionally used in natural medicine for centuries. The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation from the leaves and flowers of the plant, harvested at full bloom from June to July, when the concentration of active compounds is highest. It is an organic natural extract with a neutral herbal scent and a thin consistency, containing powerful antioxidants and antimicrobial compounds such as polyphenols and organic acids.

Function
Sage oil acts primarily as a powerful antioxidant and soothing ingredient. Thanks to its high concentration of alpha-linolenic acid, it moisturises the skin and restores its natural protective barrier, helping to prevent dryness and flaking. Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties reduce inflammation and support the regeneration of damaged skin. Its very high concentration of antioxidants effectively slows the visible signs of skin ageing and protects cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

Recommendations
Sage oil is ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature and acne-prone skin. We recommend it for people with concerns such as dermatitis, ulcers, rashes or sensitive skin. Thanks to its moisturising properties, it is also useful in hair care, especially for weak, tired hair. It is also suitable for oily, acne-prone skin, where its antimicrobial action can help.

Scientific evidence
Research has shown that sage oil has significant anti-inflammatory properties that can alleviate inflammation associated with arthritis and other inflammatory conditions. The oil's antioxidant effects protect cells from damage caused by free radicals, supporting overall skin health and helping to slow the ageing process. Thanks to its antiseptic and antimicrobial properties, sage oil has proved useful in treating wounds, skin infections and bacteria when applied directly to the affected areas.

dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.

Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.