Vitamin C - soluble in oil

This is a synthetically produced vitamin C derivative created by esterifying ascorbic acid with isopalmitic acid. Unlike water-soluble ascorbic acid, it is oil-soluble and takes the form of a colourless to pale yellow oily liquid with no noticeable odour. It is highly stable against oxidation, heat and UV radiation, making it ideal for long-lasting cosmetic formulations. Enzymes in the skin convert it into active ascorbic acid, which acts in the deeper layers. It is used in anti-ageing serums, creams, sunscreens and skin-brightening products, where it provides better penetration and lasting efficacy compared with unstable forms of vitamin C.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative known for its excellent skin-lightening, antioxidant and collagen-stimulating effects. Compared with other ascorbic acid derivatives, it stands out for its greater stability, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic products designed to improve the skin's appearance. Thanks to its oil solubility, it readily penetrates the deeper layers of the skin, increasing its efficacy. Its stability ensures long-term effectiveness in cosmetic formulations, providing lasting benefits for skin health and appearance. Its mechanism of action includes inhibiting melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase, neutralising free radicals as an antioxidant, stimulating collagen synthesis and providing anti-inflammatory effects that reduce redness. The recommended concentration is 0,5 to 3 %, at which it achieves full efficacy without irritation.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is recommended for sensitive skin because it is less irritating than ascorbic acid, for acne-prone skin for its anti-inflammatory properties, for mature skin for its anti-ageing effects, and for skin with pigmentation concerns for its brightening action. For dry and dehydrated skin, its oil base helps protect the skin barrier and support hydration.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed that ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate at a concentration of 1 % inhibited melanin synthesis by 80 % in melanocyte cell cultures and increased collagen expression by 50 % in fibroblasts after 72 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2008). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science demonstrated that applying a 3 % solution reduced visible pigmentation spots by 25 % after 4 weeks in participants with hyperpigmentation (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012). These data confirm its efficacy at low concentrations without toxicity or allergenic potential.