Zincidone®

This multi-benefit complex combines the properties of L-PCA, particularly its ability to strengthen the skin barrier, with the benefits of zinc, which is widely recognised for its purifying and sebum-regulating action, as well as its anti-inflammatory, healing and immune-protective properties. The complex therefore offers the combined beauty benefits of zinc and L-PCA for skin and hair. It is a synthetically produced cosmetic ingredient in which L-PCA is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, an amino acid naturally found in the skin, obtained through biotechnological processes. Zinc is a mineral element that binds to L-PCA in this form for improved stability and penetration into the skin. The ingredient is intended for use in professional cosmetics, with an emphasis on purity and skin compatibility. It contains no natural plant extract, but has a bio-inspired composition for optimal effectiveness.

It works by regulating sebum through inhibition of the enzyme 5α-reductase, reducing sebum production and mattifying the skin. It has strong antibacterial properties, particularly against Propionibacterium acnes (C. acnes), helping to purify the skin and reduce blemishes. It also moisturises and restores the skin barrier thanks to L-PCA, which hydrates and protects skin integrity. The anti-inflammatory and healing effects of zinc soothe irritation, support the skin's immunity and optimise the penetration of other active ingredients. The recommended concentration in formulations is 0,5 to 2 % for maximum effectiveness without irritation.

We recommend it for oily, acne-prone and congested skin, where it regulates sebum and tackles blemishes. It is also suitable for sensitive and irritated skin thanks to its soothing and barrier-supporting properties. For dehydrated skin, it provides hydration without feeling heavy, while for mature skin, it supports immunity and healing. Uses include care for oily hair and scalps, mattifying products, supporting skin immunity and treating irritated areas. We do not recommend it for extremely dry skin unless combined with hydrating ingredients.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) demonstrated that Zincidone at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of C. acnes by 99,9 % after 24 hours in vitro, significantly reducing inflammatory acne lesions. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that at a concentration of 1,5 %, Zincidone reduces sebum by 42 % over 28 days in subjects with oily skin, while improving barrier function by 25 % as measured by TEWL (transepidermal water loss).