Shikimic acid (anise)

Shikimic acid is a natural organic acid obtained from star anise (Illicium verum), an aromatic spice native to Asia, particularly Japan and China. It belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) group, and its name comes from the Japanese word "shikimi", which refers to the star anise flower. It is a biochemical metabolite found in various plants and microorganisms. Shikimic acid was first isolated in 1885 by the Dutch botanist Johann Frederik Eijkman. Before its use in cosmetics, this natural extract was primarily used in pharmaceuticals, where it serves as a precursor in the production of antiviral medicines, particularly oseltamivir (Tamiflu), used against influenza viruses.

Shikimic acid acts on the skin in several ways. Its primary action is as a powerful natural exfoliant, gently removing dead skin cells and supporting the skin's natural renewal without causing irritation. Its antioxidant properties neutralise free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress, slowing the visible signs of ageing. Shikimic acid has a strong ability to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, effectively reducing hyperpigmentation and brightening the skin. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antiviral properties, it regulates sebum production and inhibits the growth of acne-causing bacteria. Research shows that a 5% concentration of shikimic acid exhibits the same biological activity as a 50% concentration of glycolic acid, making it a highly effective yet gentle ingredient.

Shikimic acid is ideal for people with oily, acne-prone, sensitive or dehydrated skin. It is particularly recommended for those struggling with acne, enlarged pores and uneven skin tone. Its gentle properties also make it suitable for sensitive skin, as it does not usually cause irritation. It is also useful for mature skin, as its antioxidant effects help prevent and minimise wrinkles and loss of elasticity. Products containing lower concentrations (2-5%) are suitable for daily use, while higher concentrations are recommended for professional treatments. SPF protection must be used during the summer months, as the acid increases the skin's sensitivity to sunlight.

Clinical studies confirm the effectiveness of this ingredient. According to research, shikimic acid at a concentration of 1% acts as an effective deodorant and is safe for topical application at concentrations of up to 5%. Studies from Brno University of Technology show that phenolic compounds, including shikimic acid, have significant anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that slow oxidation in products and protect the skin from environmental pollutants.