Sample - Rosacare Face Cream - Anti-Flare Comfort

With its beautiful, intoxicating scent, this rose water of the highest quality is a completely natural product with wonderful beauty benefits. It is an extract of damask rose petals, obtained by distilling fresh flowers, and contains water-soluble volatile and aromatic compounds from roses. This hydrolate is rich in antioxidants, bioflavonoids and carotenes that penetrate the skin and support its health. Thanks to its strong antibacterial properties, it is made without preservatives, and is hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin. As well as being used in cosmetics, it is used in cooking to flavour desserts and drinks, and supports digestion when consumed in small amounts.

Rose water is an excellent toner that hydrates the skin, balances its pH, cleanses pores and stimulates regeneration. It has strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, disinfects, prevents inflammation and tightens pores. It soothes irritated skin, reduces redness and puffiness, and promotes healing in skin affected by acne, eczema or rosacea. As an antioxidant, it protects against free radicals, slows ageing, improves elasticity and helps prevent wrinkles. It is used at a concentration of 100 % as a toner or spray, with no need to dilute it, ideally morning and evening.

We recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for children, people with allergies, and after shaving, hair removal or sunburn. In summer, it refreshes the skin as a spray, sets make-up and removes blackheads. Suitable for anyone looking for natural, alcohol-free skincare.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2011) showed that Rosa damascena hydrolate at a concentration of 100 % significantly reduced inflammatory markers in patients with acne by 68 % after 60 days of daily application, thanks to its phenolic compounds and essential oils (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2011). Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2015) reports that the antioxidants in rose water improved skin hydration by 25 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in dry skin (Phytotherapy Research, 2015).

Ceramides are lipids that naturally occur in large amounts in cell membranes and are among the main components of the upper layers of our skin. As we age, our skin loses these lipids. Lipids protect our skin against free radicals and microorganisms, forming part of the skin barrier. They retain the skin’s natural moisture, prevent water loss from deeper layers and provide essential hydration, improving its ability to retain moisture. They help prevent skin ageing and maintain a youthful appearance. A ceramide complex stimulates the skin to produce more collagen. Ceramides strengthen the skin’s protective function and improve its ability to retain moisture, helping to protect it against external factors such as sunlight and air pollution. They are produced naturally in the skin, but cosmetics use synthetic forms or plant-derived phytoceramides, such as those obtained from wheat germ, allowing them to be widely used in organic extracts.

Their mechanism of action includes moisturising by retaining water in the skin and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), restoring the skin barrier by acting like glue between cells in the stratum corneum, providing antioxidant protection against free radicals and soothing irritated skin. They strengthen the lipid structure, improving elasticity and suppleness. At concentrations commonly used in cosmetics (0,1-1 %), they significantly support hydration and regeneration without irritation.

They are recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and irritated skin, as well as mature skin with visible signs of ageing, eczema or psoriasis. They are ideal for people exposed to harsh skincare treatments, cold, pollution or UV radiation, helping to restore the barrier and improve tolerance to active ingredients such as retinoids.

A study involving 60 volunteers with dry skin showed that taking ceramides orally for 60 days increased skin hydration, elasticity and smoothness, and reduced TEWL, roughness and wrinkling compared with a placebo (Enori.sk, study cited in the source). Clinical tests on CeramosidesTM demonstrated improvements in skin elasticity and hydration after just 15 days.

Olive squalene is a luxurious ingredient and, as its name suggests, it is pure plant-derived squalene obtained from olives. It is also known as a “natural facelift” because it is similar to the lipids in human skin, allowing it to penetrate deep into skin tissue, support cell regeneration and oxygenation, hydrate, promote healing and, not least, smooth wrinkles. This ingredient comes from olives and is obtained by hydrogenating the squalene present in olive oil through environmentally friendly processes, without using animal sources or synthetic chemicals. It is a stable, plant-based alternative to animal-derived squalene that is fully compatible with organic cosmetics and supports sustainable production. Thanks to its structure, which is identical to human lipids, it absorbs exceptionally well without clogging pores, making it an ideal base for nourishing products.

It works primarily by intensely moisturising the skin and restoring its barrier, replenishing the skin’s natural lipids and preventing transepidermal water loss. As a powerful antioxidant, it protects cells from free radicals and supports tissue regeneration and oxygenation, helping to smooth wrinkles and improve elasticity. It also soothes irritation and speeds up healing, without exfoliating effects. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 5-20 %, with 10 % significantly increasing hydration without leaving a greasy film.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively combats loss of elasticity and wrinkles. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it is non-comedogenic and regulates the sebaceous glands without clogging pores. Thanks to its hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for all age groups, including children and pregnant women. It has a soothing effect on sensitive skin with eczema or irritation, while helping to prevent signs of ageing in mature skin.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that olive squalene at a concentration of 10 % increased skin hydration by 45 % and improved skin barrier recovery by 30 % after 4 weeks of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that applying 5 % olive-derived squalene reduced lipid peroxidation in the skin by 25 % and improved elasticity by 20 % over 8 weeks, confirming its antioxidant and regenerative effects.

Fractionated coconut oil is a 100 % natural oil produced by fractionating coconut oil. This process separates the oil into individual types of fatty acids. It remains liquid and is colourless and odourless. It absorbs very well into the skin and has an unlimited shelf life because it is 100 % saturated. It is a ‘dry’ oil, rich in fatty acids and moisturising components. The fractionation process removes longer-chain fatty acids, such as lauric acid, creating a lightweight blend of medium-chain fatty acids, mainly caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). It comes from the tropical fruit of the coconut palm, which grows in regions such as India, the Philippines and Indonesia. It is a plant-derived glyceride that feels soft to the touch and is biologically compatible with human skin. Unlike raw coconut oil, which solidifies at lower temperatures, fractionated coconut oil stays liquid even in the cold, making it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. It is not synthetic but obtained through physical distillation without chemical additives, and can be certified as an organic extract from organic farming.

A plant-derived glyceride with a very soft feel. It is readily absorbed by human skin, is non-greasy and leaves no oily film. It acts as an emollient, moisturising the skin by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring the lipid barrier. It softens, smooths and conditions the skin. It helps the skin regulate sebum production and pH without blocking pores. The oil improves the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, such as essential oils or herbal ingredients. It acts as a solvent for oil-soluble active ingredients (maceration). As an occlusive, it protects against dryness and supports skin cell regeneration thanks to its saturated fatty acid content. At concentrations of 5-20 % in emulsions, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity without being comedogenic (no risk of clogging pores).

Recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it provides effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for normal to combination skin, as it regulates sebum and leaves no film. For oily, dehydrated skin, it is ideal as a lightweight carrier for active ingredients. We do not recommend it for severely acne-prone skin with open lesions, although it is non-comedogenic. Its gentle texture makes it excellent for all ages, especially children, and for atopic skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride at a concentration of 10 % in a moisturising cream reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in subjects with dry skin. Further research in the Journal of Dermatological Science (2008) showed that fractionated coconut triglycerides support ceramide synthesis in the skin barrier by 18 % in vitro, restoring its protective layer.

Description: This ingredient is a lightweight, plant-derived ester obtained from coconut oil and fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is used as a gentle, easily spreadable alternative to heavier silicones and rich oils. It absorbs very well, leaves no greasy film and gives the skin a silky, dry and pleasantly soft feel. It is particularly popular in high-quality, naturally focused cosmetics because it improves the sensory feel of the product, softens the skin's surface and feels comfortable even with daily use. It is also biodegradable and suitable for modern formulations designed to be light, elegant and non-sticky.

Function: It acts primarily as an emollient and softening ingredient, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and support a smoother, more supple appearance. It forms a light protective film on the surface, indirectly helping dry and dehydrated skin feel more comfortable. It greatly improves the spreadability of creams, body lotions, oils and balms, while also helping to dissolve lipophilic active ingredients, such as plant extracts or essential oils. It is typically used in formulations at concentrations of approximately 1 to 20 %, depending on the desired skin feel and product type.

Recommendations: It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs softening without a heavy, greasy feel. It is also a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin when a lightweight alternative to rich oils or silicones is needed. People who prefer fast absorption, a dry finish and a pleasant, non-sticky feel may also appreciate it. It is suitable for day creams, cleansing oils, body care products, lip balms, hair serums and after-sun products.

Citations, specific figures and statistics: In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, this ester was tested in a human repeat insult patch test on 50 volunteers at a concentration of 100 %; no sensitisation or clinically significant skin irritation was observed. These results support its use in products for sensitive skin and explain why it is often used as a very well-tolerated alternative to heavier emollients.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

This biotechnological blend combines a yeast ferment with an edible mushroom extract and moisturising glycols. The mushroom extract contains grifolin derivatives that can influence a receptor sensitive to heat and capsaicin. The ingredient is intended for products that provide a soothing, cooling sensation without menthol.

Coolin blocks or reduces activation of the TRPV1 receptor, which is involved in the perception of burning, heat, itching and sensitivity. This may help skin better tolerate heat stress and cosmetic stimuli. The ferment and glycols also help hydrate the skin. The effect is not anaesthetic and is not intended to mask irritation caused by an overly harsh formulation.

We recommend it for sensitive, reactive, redness-prone and heat-stressed skin. It is suitable for after-sun and after-shave products, or for skin that does not tolerate menthol well. For rosacea, the formulation must be free from fragrance and strong acids. If you have mushroom allergies, a patch test is advisable.

A controlled study involving 17 participants showed that 14 days of using a 3 per cent Albatrellus ovinus extract increased the heat pain threshold by 1,5 degrees Celsius compared with baseline and placebo. The treated skin also maintained its tolerance better after irritation with capsaicin (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017). The blend uses a related mushroom extract, so the supplier's technical data must be followed.

The recommended concentration is usually around 1 to 3 per cent. The ingredient is added during the cool-down phase at a mild pH. It combines well with panthenol, betaine and barrier lipids. The preservative system must be compatible with the ferment and validated by a challenge test.

The soothing effect is best achieved with a simple routine, without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at once. If your skin is reactive, it is advisable to try a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, pronounced flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

This non-ionic emulsifying blend is made from plant-derived fatty alcohols and sugar glucosides. It combines the water and oil phases into a light emulsion and forms ordered lamellar structures similar to the skin's lipid layers. It is a functional ingredient used in creams, fluids, cleansing milks and sunscreens.

Montanov L stabilises the emulsion, improves spreadability and forms a soft, non-greasy film. The lamellar structure may help release water and lipids more evenly onto the skin's surface, helping the skin feel hydrated. The emulsifier itself does not treat dryness or inflammation, but a well-structured cream has a significant influence on comfort, barrier repair and how evenly active ingredients are distributed over the skin.

It is suitable for products for normal, dry, sensitive and combination skin. Its lightweight feel also makes it suitable for daytime fluids and creams for warm or humid climates. For oily skin, the result depends on the amount of the oil phase. For very sensitive skin, its non-ionic nature and the option to formulate without harsh surfactants are advantages.

The manufacturer assessed the moisturising properties of emulsions containing Montanov emulsifiers on different skin phototypes and in different climatic conditions. Tests showed increased hydration and confirmed that Montanov L enables lightweight formulations suitable even for hot and humid environments (Seppic Clinical Evaluation). These data relate to the emulsion system, not to an independent therapeutic effect.

The usual concentration is approximately 1 to 5 per cent, depending on the amount of the oil phase and the desired viscosity. It requires heating and proper homogenisation. Stability is affected by the ratio of the phases, electrolytes, polymers and the cooling profile, so stress testing and long-term testing are necessary.

For the user, its benefits are most apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not merely an aesthetic quality, as it supports even application of active ingredients and regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to check stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves after applying SPF or make-up. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

Oat silk has a remarkable ability to make skin glow. It absorbs excess sebum from the skin. It contains a wealth of antioxidants and beta-glucan, which help support skin cell renewal and the skin’s own collagen production. Avenanthramides – powerful natural antioxidants found exclusively in oat grains – can soothe hypersensitive skin and reduce redness. This ingredient comes from oat kernels (Avena sativa), which are finely milled into flour and processed into a silky powder. It is a natural plant extract, certified for use in organic cosmetics and free from synthetic additives, ensuring purity and sustainability.

Dulcia natural uses high-quality oat silk that meets the strictest Ecocert and COSMOS. The world’s most prestigious certifications for natural and organic cosmetics.

Oat silk works by moisturising the skin through beta-glucan, which binds water and restores the skin barrier. Its avenanthramides provide powerful antioxidant protection against free radicals, soothe irritation and gently exfoliate by removing excess sebum without drying out the skin. The recommended concentration in formulations is 1-5 % for optimal results.

We particularly recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as dehydrated or mature skin. It absorbs sebum without disrupting the skin barrier, soothes redness in sensitive skin and supports hydration in dry or mature skin. Suitable for all skin types that need gentle cleansing and protection.

A study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2015) showed that oat avenanthramides at a concentration of 0,03 % reduced itching by 50 % in patients with atopic dermatitis after 4 days of application. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2007) showed that oat beta-glucan increases skin hydration by 20 % and supports ceramide production in the skin barrier after 3 weeks of use.

1. ECOCERT Natural
2. Fragrance Free
3. Eco Friendly
4. Paraben Free
5. Alcohol Free
6. Not Tested on Animals
7. Biodegradable
8. GMO Free
9. China INCI Compliance
10. Free from Allergens

This is a water-soluble derivative of a dicarboxylic acid, in which the active component is linked to the amino acid glycine and neutralised with potassium. It is produced through controlled synthesis to improve the solubility and tolerability of the original acid. The ingredient is suitable for lightweight water-based serums and emulsions, where the poorly soluble original molecule is more difficult to use.

Azeclair PAD helps regulate excess sebum production, supports a more even skin tone and also provides hydration. Its mechanism involves inhibiting the enzyme 5 alpha reductase, regulating pigment production processes and the presence of the glycine component. Compared with conventional azelaic acid, it tends to feel more comfortable on the skin and causes less stinging, although it is not exactly the same substance or a substitute for dermatological treatment.

We recommend it for oily, combination, acne-prone skin and skin with pigmentation, as well as sensitive skin that does not tolerate strong acids well. It is suitable for shine, enlarged pores, post-acne marks and uneven skin tone. In cases of active rosacea or an impaired skin barrier, a new product should be introduced gradually and without other irritating ingredients.

When a 3 per cent aqueous solution was applied twice daily for three weeks, skin lipid levels fell by 29,4 per cent on the forehead, 27,0 per cent on the nose and 31,5 per cent on the chin. Hydration increased by 12,7 per cent on the forehead and 8,2 per cent on the cheek (Cosmetics and Toiletries, 2002). The study was small, involving five volunteers.

In finished products, it is often used at approximately 3 to 10 per cent of the supplier's solution, depending on the active ingredient content. It is suitable for a pH of approximately 5 to 7. Even with good tolerability, the complete formulation must be tested for compatibility, stability and efficacy.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).

Discover the secret of “Japanese beauty oil”, which gains a new, intense power for your skin through a unique fermentation process. This special extract is made from Japanese camellia seed oil, which undergoes gentle fermentation using the yeast Pseudozyma Epicola. The result is not just an ordinary oil, but a lightweight, deeply absorbed formula that nourishes the skin and leaves it feeling softer than you ever dreamed possible.

It works by intensely moisturising the skin and restoring its lipid barrier. The fermented extract significantly supports skin cell regeneration and acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting against free radicals. The ingredient is commonly used at concentrations from 1 % to 10 %, ensuring that the skin receives enough active ingredients without the risk of irritation. This combination of hydrating and regenerating properties makes it an ideal ingredient for everyday skincare.

We recommend this ingredient particularly for those with dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin that needs its elasticity restored quickly. It is also excellent for mature skin that needs help tackling the first signs of ageing, and even for oily skin, as the oil's lightweight texture does not clog pores. If you are looking for an ingredient that smooths wrinkles, improves elasticity and prevents pigmentation spots, you are in the right place.

The proven effects of this ingredient are supported by modern cosmetic studies. One study found that fermented camellia oil at a concentration of 5 % increased skin hydration by 25 % and significantly strengthened its protective barrier after two weeks of use (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023). This result confirms that fermenting camellia oils is not just a marketing trick, but a genuine process that increases their biological effectiveness for your skin.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

This ingredient comes from the extremophilic microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, which grows in Iceland's harsh conditions and produces astaxanthin to protect itself against stress. It is obtained through a biotechnological process using upcycled biomass, which means using waste from astaxanthin production to create high-value active ingredients. It contains vegan collagen peptides standardised for glycine, proline and hydroxyproline, together with spermidine, which supports collagen synthesis. It stimulates collagen and elastin production, supports skin firmness and elasticity and protects against free radicals. It is GMO-free, vegan and certified by ECOCERT, COSMOS, RSPO and NATRUE, with high stability and easy incorporation into water-based formulations.

Its mechanism of action involves stimulating native collagen production in the dermal layer, restoring hydration channels (aquaporins) and providing immediate hydration with long-term moisture retention. It strengthens the skin barrier, firms the skin and provides antioxidant protection thanks to astaxanthin. In in vitro tests, it increases collagen production by 27,96 % at a concentration of 0,5 % and by 40,37 % at 1 %. It provides hydrating benefits comparable to those of hyaluronic acid, with a 34 % increase in hydration at 0,5 %. Clinical studies confirmed a 2,2-fold improvement in firmness and a 3,4-fold improvement in plumping after 7 days at 1 %, a threefold improvement in hydration after 28 days and a 14 % reduction in wrinkles after 10 minutes at 3 %.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated and mature skin, skin with reduced elasticity, and sensitive skin prone to environmental stress. Ideal for anti-ageing products, hydrating serums and creams for visible firming and plumping. Suitable for vegan and natural formulations where you are looking for both rapid and long-term effects without synthetic additives.

A clinical study using a 3 % concentration showed a 35 % increase in hydration after 10 minutes compared with 7 % for the placebo, with a lasting effect for up to 24 hours and a 14 % reduction in wrinkles (Premium Beauty News, 2023). Another study at 2 % demonstrated a 30 % increase in hydration after 1 hour, maintained for 24 hours. In vitro tests confirmed a 40,37 % increase in collagen production at 1 % (Cosmetics Business, 2023).

This bioactive extract is obtained from an edible subtropical fruit originally grown in South America. The manufacturer uses a standardised process to preserve molecules that influence stress signalling in the skin. This plant-derived ingredient is mainly used in products for sensitive skin, uncomfortable itching and visible signs of stress-related fatigue.

AnnonaSense CLR acts on signalling involving substance P, cytokines and the IL-31RA receptor. The aim is to reduce itching, reactivity and redness that worsen with psychological or environmental stress. The extract does not act as an anaesthetic, but supports a more balanced skin response. It may improve skin comfort and appearance, particularly as part of a simple, fragrance-free formula that supports the skin barrier.

We recommend it for sensitive, reactive, dry and stressed skin that frequently itches, stings or reacts to changes in temperature. It may also be suitable for rosacea-prone skin, provided the product as a whole contains no irritating ingredients. It is not intended as a treatment for atopic dermatitis or psychological stress, but as supportive skincare.

In a supplier clinical study involving volunteers with sensitive skin and high levels of daily stress, perceived skin comfort and appearance improved, itching decreased and measurements suggested lower systemic cortisol production (CLR Skin-Brain Study). As this is a proprietary extract and the data are manufacturer-funded, claims should be tied to the recommended concentration.

The supplier usually recommends a concentration of approximately 1 to 3 per cent. The extract is added during the cool-down phase at a mild pH. In products for sensitive skin, it makes sense to combine it with betaine, panthenol, oats or barrier lipids and leave out fragrance.

The soothing effect is best supported by a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at once. For reactive skin, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent stinging, pronounced flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a gentle, plant-derived emulsifier that keeps water and oils blended in cosmetic products while softening the skin.

Origin
This ingredient is a natural, non-ionic emulsifier and co-emulsifier of plant origin, produced by reacting glycerine, stearic acid (usually from plant oils such as soya, rapeseed or corn oil) and citric acid. Thanks to its plant origin, it is also suitable for vegans and is readily biodegradable.

How it works
The main function of Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is to stabilise oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, creating light, smooth and non-greasy product textures. As an emollient, it softens and moisturises the skin, forming a protective film that restores the skin barrier and prevents water evaporation. In standard cream formulations, it is usually used at a concentration of 2 to 6 %, while 3 to 5 % is recommended for light lotions and 4 to 10 % for thicker creams.

Skin type
This ingredient is suitable for all skin types, including dry, sensitive, dehydrated, combination and oily skin. Its gentleness and low risk of irritation make it a popular ingredient for sensitive skin prone to irritation.

Research and safety
The safety of this substance is supported by extensive research. In its official 2017 report, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) research panel confirmed that Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 5 %, with no evidence of irritation, sensitisation or toxicity when used correctly. In single and repeated skin tests, the ingredient was shown to be non-sensitising and non-irritating, ensuring its suitability for long-term use on human skin.

Lactic acid is a plant-derived acid produced by fermentation. This natural process involves the microbial fermentation of sugars from maize, sugar cane or beet, making it a renewable and environmentally friendly raw material. It can also be obtained from milk through bacterial fermentation, but plant sources are preferred in modern cosmetics for vegan and certified organic products. It occurs naturally in certain fruits and fermented foods, confirming its biological origin. Synthetic variants are less common, as the fermentation method ensures high purity and biological compatibility with the skin. In organic cosmetics, it is used as an extract from natural sources, supporting sustainable production.

It is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that smooths and rejuvenates the skin, supports cell renewal and improves skin elasticity. It works through exfoliation: it penetrates the upper layers of the epidermis, where it loosens dead skin cells by breaking down the bonds between them, accelerating natural regeneration. It hydrates the skin by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and hyaluronic acid in the skin, restores the lipid barrier and acts as an antioxidant against free radicals. It soothes irritation and reduces inflammation. The recommended concentration is 5-10 % for at-home skincare, with higher concentrations (up to 20 %) used in professional peels under supervision. It is a gentler alternative to glycolic acid in cosmetics. It also acts as a chemical exfoliant (like other AHAs – malic, citric and tartaric acids).

It is particularly suitable for ageing and mature skin. It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin. For dry and mature skin, it boosts hydration and stimulates collagen production; for sensitive skin, it soothes without irritation; and for oily and acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and clears pores. Avoid use on open wounds or on extremely sensitive skin without a patch test. BENEFITS: exfoliates the skin's surface – speeds up skin cell renewal by removing dead skin cells (even more gently than physical exfoliation), improves overall skin texture, reduces pore size and leaves the complexion looking even and radiant, removes excess sebum, increases skin hydration, helps slow the natural ageing process by stimulating collagen production, helps fade pigmentation marks and improves the condition of sun-damaged skin.

Clinical studies confirm its effectiveness: lactic acid at a concentration of 12 %, used 3x a week for 12 weeks, improved skin hydration by 81 % and reduced fine lines in women with photoaged skin (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2008). Another study showed that a 5 % lactic acid solution increased ceramide synthesis in the stratum corneum by 77 % after 7 days of application, restoring the skin barrier (British Journal of Dermatology, 1996). These results highlight its gentle yet effective impact on skin structure.

Ectoin® natural comes from a natural source – it is a bioactive molecule isolated from extremophilic microorganisms that occur naturally in hypersaline environments. This ingredient is the result of an evolutionary adaptation that allows organisms to protect their cells against extreme conditions. Ectoin belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes – natural osmoprotectants that enable cells to survive in harsh environments. Its natural origin and complex mechanism of action place it among the most advanced bioactive ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This ingredient works in several ways to restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Ectoin acts as a powerful water-binding agent, retaining water deep within the skin and increasing hydration by up to 200 percent compared with untreated skin. It also acts as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and protecting cells from damage caused by UV radiation, blue light and environmental pollution. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces inflammation and supports the repair of a damaged skin barrier, helping to soothe irritation and sensitivity.

Ectoin® natural is ideally suited to sensitive, dehydrated, stressed and mature skin. It is recommended for people with dry, irritated areas, as well as those whose skin is affected by inflammatory conditions. It also brings relief to skin exposed to intense sunlight or environmental stress. Its gentle nature means it can also be used on oily and acne-prone skin without the risk of further irritation.

Clinical studies confirm its significant effects: during a 12-day trial, skin hydration increased by up to 200 percent, and this level of hydration was maintained for a further 7 days after application stopped. After 10 days of regular use, the increased hydration level remained almost constant until day 19 of the study, highlighting its long-lasting moisturising effect.

This water-soluble salt is derived from glycyrrhizic acid, the main sweet component of liquorice root. Converting it into a potassium salt improves its solubility and suitability for water-based serums and emulsions. It is a popular soothing ingredient for sensitive skin and is often combined with panthenol, oats or niacinamide.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate suppresses inflammatory signals, helps reduce redness and uncomfortable itching, and helps soothe skin with a weakened barrier. It also has antioxidant and mild antimicrobial properties. It is neither a corticosteroid nor a treatment for eczema, but a gentle cosmetic ingredient that supports the skin. In a hydrating formulation, it may reduce reactivity caused by dryness, cleansing or environmental stress.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, reactive, acne-prone skin and skin prone to redness. It is also suitable for use in aftershave and after-sun products, or when using retinoids. If you have diagnosed dermatitis, it should be part of a simple skincare routine approved by a dermatologist. An allergy to liquorice is rare, but possible.

A clinical study in adults with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis showed that regular use of an emollient containing dipotassium glycyrrhizate reduced symptoms and the frequency of flare-ups (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2025). The result applied to the complete emollient formulation, so the effect cannot be attributed solely to one ingredient.

It is commonly used at a concentration of approximately 0,1 to 1 per cent. It is water-soluble and suitable for the cool-down phase. The formulation should have a slightly acidic to neutral pH. For sensitive skin, it is important to minimise fragrance and harsh preservative or exfoliating systems.

Its soothing effect is best achieved in a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at the same time. If your skin is reactive, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, significant flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

Your face cream needs a secret key that naturally lets water back in and prevents it from escaping – and that is cholesterol, a substance your skin produces itself and cannot function properly without.

Cholesterol is a lipid that occurs naturally in our bodies, particularly in the skin, and is a key component of the hydrolipid barrier. Its main role in cosmetics is to support a healthy lipid structure, helping the skin retain moisture for longer. This process improves the skin's elasticity, smoothness and firmness, slowing the visible signs of ageing. A concentration of up to 5 % is recommended in cosmetic products, although it is commonly used at levels from 0,1 % to 1 %. Cholesterol also acts as an emulsifier, extending the product's shelf life and preventing it from separating.

This ingredient is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs to restore its protective barrier. Cholesterol is ideal for those whose skin struggles to retain water, or who use active ingredients such as AHA/BHA acids and retinoids, which can temporarily increase water loss. It should be used with caution on oily or acne-prone skin, as excessively high concentrations of cholesterol may increase sebum production and worsen acne-related problems.

A study published in a specialist journal confirmed that a combination of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids in a 3:1:1 ratio improved skin barrier function by 80 – 90 % in just four weeks (Epiderma.cz, 2023). This result suggests that cholesterol is not just an extra ingredient, but a key partner in skin repair and protection. That is why it is important to look for it in formulas that also contain ceramides and fatty acids – together they create a strong, resilient barrier that protects your skin from external factors.

This plant-based emulsifier helps create smooth emulsions from oils and water. In cosmetics and in this ingredient, the word alcohol refers to something different from the alcohol found in drinks, so the two should not be confused. It is a fatty alcohol derived from plant fats and oils; ours comes from coconut oil. Fatty alcohols play a very similar role to fatty acids, particularly omega-3 fatty acids. It has excellent moisturising, softening and hydrating properties. It forms a protective film on the skin that prevents water loss and keeps the skin from drying out too quickly. This fatty alcohol is obtained from coconut oil through natural extraction, making it ideal for natural cosmetics. It is a white, waxy solid fat with a mild scent that melts at around 49 degrees Celsius, making it easy to work with in formulations. Thanks to its stability and compatibility with various emulsifiers, it improves the texture of creams, gels and lotions, contributing to a luxurious feel on the skin. Its plant origin ensures high purity without impurities from petrochemical sources, which is valued by manufacturers of organic cosmetics.

Cetyl alcohol works primarily by moisturising and restoring the skin barrier. As an emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions, preventing the oil and water phases from separating, while also forming an occlusive protective film on the skin's surface that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This film protects against dryness caused by external factors such as wind and cold. It also has softening effects that improve skin elasticity, and mild antioxidant properties thanks to its similarity to omega-3 fatty acids, which support hydration and anti-inflammatory processes. In cosmetic formulations, it is used at concentrations of 1-5 %, where it significantly increases the viscosity and creaminess of products without leaving a greasy feel.

We recommend cetyl alcohol for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps combat moisture loss and supports barrier repair. It is also suitable for oily skin at low concentrations, as it does not clog pores and improves texture without adding shine. It is ideal for atopic or eczema-prone skin, where it soothes irritation and protects against dryness. In haircare, it is valued for restoring smoothness to dry, brittle hair.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004) showed that cetyl alcohol at concentrations of 2-4 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin, significantly improving hydration and elasticity. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) confirmed that, in combination with emulsifiers, it increases emulsion stability and supports lipid barrier repair by 30 % in people with impaired skin function.

Allantoin is a natural metabolite found in a variety of plants, including horse chestnut, comfrey, maple and wheat germ. In the cosmetics industry, it is extracted from organically grown plants, ensuring its natural and sustainable origin. This active ingredient is recognised worldwide for its multifunctional skincare properties.

Allantoin works primarily by providing intensive hydration and restoring the skin's natural barrier. It acts as a proven humectant, helping to retain moisture in the deeper layers of the skin. It also has soothing properties and helps reduce redness and irritation. Allantoin stimulates skin tissue regeneration and supports collagen synthesis, helping to renew the skin and minimise visible imperfections. At concentrations of 0,1 to 0,5 %, it has mild keratolytic effects, gently removing dead skin cells without harsh action. It also provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and UV radiation.

Allantoin is an ideal choice particularly for sensitive and irritated skin, including skin prone to eczema and atopic dermatitis. It also works exceptionally well on dry, dehydrated and mature skin in need of intensive regeneration and renewal. Its gentle action makes it safe even for the skin of newborns and young children. It is also recommended for skin with concerns such as acne or psoriasis, as its soothing and healing effects do not cause irritation. It shows no signs of toxicity or potential to cause allergic reactions.

Scientific research confirms allantoin's effectiveness in practice. According to dermatological and cosmetic studies, allantoin at concentrations of 0,2 to 0,5 %, combined with other ingredients, reduces skin irritation and supports regeneration within two to four weeks of regular use. Its keratoplastic and collagen-stimulating properties have long been documented in scientific literature, making it one of the most trusted ingredients in natural cosmetics.

100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.

It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.

A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.

This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.

In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.

It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.

A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.

During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.

dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.

Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.

Xanthan gum is a fine powder obtained by fermenting sugar. This 100 % natural stabiliser and emulsifier is used in food and cosmetics. It acts as a thickener, emulsion stabiliser and humectant that binds water and retains it in the skin for a long time. It is obtained by fermenting glucose and sucrose. Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris derived from maize. No genetically modified raw materials are used in its production. This biopolymer is formed through a fermentation process in which Xanthomonas campestris bacteria convert simple sugars from maize, soya or wheat into a complex polysaccharide. The process involves inoculating the culture, fermenting it under controlled temperature and pH conditions, then purifying, spray-drying and milling it into a fine powder. Discovered in the 1950s and patented in 1963 by the USDA, it offers a renewable alternative to traditional thickeners. It is not synthetic but produced biotechnologically from natural sources, making it suitable for organic cosmetics and GMO-free food.

Its mechanism of action involves a high water-binding capacity, which moisturises the skin and improves hydration. It stabilises emulsions by preventing the oil and water phases from separating, helping to restore the skin’s barrier function through improved product consistency. It provides a smooth, silky feel on the skin, making application gentle and reducing friction. At low concentrations, typically 0,1-1 %, it achieves high viscosity, stabilises suspensions and foams, and withstands changes in pH (3-12), temperature and salt levels. It is used to create transparent gels, control the flow properties of water-based formulations and provide flexibility.

It is recommended for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated, sensitive and normal skin, where it improves hydration and comfort. It is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin in cleansing gels and shampoos thanks to its stability at an acidic pH (4,5-5,5). In creams and serums for mature skin, it supports the skin barrier. It does not weigh the skin down, is non-irritating and is ideal for vegan, gluten-free cosmetics.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that xanthan gum at a concentration of 0,5 % in moisturising formulations increased moisture retention in the skin by 25 % after 24 hours compared with a placebo (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that, at 0,3 % in emulsions, it stabilised the barrier function of dry skin 18 % more effectively, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL).