Berry wax

This plant-based wax is obtained from the fruit skins of the Asian lacquer tree. After harvesting, the waxy part is separated, purified and processed into a soft raw material with a low melting point. In natural cosmetics, it is particularly valued for its smooth, creamy consistency and its ability to replace some of the beeswax or synthetic wax in a formula.

It acts as an emollient and structuring agent in formulations. It thickens the oil phase, improves the stability of balms, lipsticks and richer creams, and helps products apply evenly. It forms a thin, semi-permeable film on the skin that helps limit excessive water loss through evaporation. However, it is not a humectant that binds water directly. Its role is instead to protect the surface, soften rough skin and help keep the lipid barrier comfortable. In cosmetic products, it is often used at concentrations of approximately 1 to 10 per cent, depending on the desired firmness and texture.

It is particularly beneficial for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, as well as chapped or stressed lips. It is suitable for protective balms, body butters, winter creams, make-up and products for areas prone to flaking. For oily and acne-prone skin, suitability depends on the overall formulation, the amount of wax and the types of oils used. The ingredient itself does not treat acne, pigmentation or inflammation.

A clinical study assessed a lip balm rich in berry wax, coconut oil and olive oil in 15 healthy women. After a single application, lip hydration and barrier function improved significantly for at least 2 hours. Raman spectroscopy also confirmed the deposition of lipids in the upper layer of the skin for 2 to 6 hours (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019). As the product was a finished blend of three lipids, the results cannot be attributed to one ingredient alone, but they do illustrate its value in a protective balm formulation.

During manufacture, it is added to the oil phase and heated only enough to melt completely. The final feel depends on its combination with harder waxes, butters and liquid oils. Lower concentrations provide softness and glide, while higher amounts make the product richer and more protective.