Pentavitin

This plant-derived carbohydrate complex is made from sugars sourced from edible plants. Its composition is designed to resemble the natural carbohydrates found in the skin's outermost layer. The raw material supplied is a water-based blend in which citric acid and sodium citrate help maintain a suitable pH and stability. It is neither an oil nor an ingredient that forms a heavy, greasy film.

Pentavitin acts as a humectant, attracting and retaining water in the surface layers of the skin. The carbohydrate complex has an affinity for keratin, so it stays on the skin longer than many common moisturising ingredients that wash off easily. It helps reduce tightness, flaking and roughness. It also supports skin barrier function, as a better-hydrated outermost layer is more supple and resistant to drying out.

We recommend it particularly for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin. It is also suitable for oily or acne-prone skin that needs hydration without heavy oils. It works well in serums, creams, masks and gentle cleansers. It can be useful in a routine that includes retinoids or exfoliating acids, helping to ease the dryness that can accompany their use. However, it is not a treatment for eczema, rosacea or acne.

A placebo-controlled clinical study followed 30 adults with flaky scalps for 28 days. Shampoos containing 0,2 and 0,5 per cent Saccharide Isomerate improved transepidermal water loss, sebum production and flaking compared with the placebo. At a concentration of 0,5 per cent, repeated use led to an approximately 55 per cent reduction in visible flakes and, after 28 days, a 37 per cent reduction in sebum. The results support this ingredient's hydrating and barrier-supporting mechanism, although they were obtained on the scalp rather than the face (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023).

Its use in skincare depends on the type of product and the supplier's recommendations. Its effect depends on the overall formulation, so it is often combined with glycerine, betaine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or ceramides. A humectant binds water, but very dry skin also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to help lock in hydration.