Magnolia extract

This botanical extract comes from the flowers or other standardised parts of magnolia grown in East Asia. The plant contains phenolic compounds, including magnolol and honokiol, which are being studied for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. For any particular raw material, it is important to check whether it is a flower or bark extract and what levels of marker compounds it contains.

Magnolia extract helps counteract oxidative stress and may inhibit enzymes and signals associated with inflammation and fibroblast ageing. In cosmetics, it supports a smoother, brighter appearance and may also help protect the formulation against microorganisms. It is not a substitute for a preservative without an appropriate challenge test, and not every flower extract contains the same amount of active phenolic compounds as the bark.

We recommend it for mature, tired-looking skin, skin with pigmentation concerns, and normal to dry skin. At low concentrations, it may also suit sensitive skin, but magnolia extracts can cause sensitisation in some people. For skin with rosacea or eczema, a simple, fragrance-free formulation and a patch test are advisable.

A clinical assessment of a standardised Magnolia officinalis extract after 28 days recorded a reduction in average skin roughness of 12,73 per cent, an increase in elasticity of 3,76 per cent and a slight brightening of skin tone (Cosmetics, 2026). The study assessed a specific extract, and the results may not apply to every grade of flower extract without comparable standardisation.

It is used at approximately 0,05 to 1 per cent, depending on the level of active marker compounds and the intended purpose. The extract is sensitive to light and oxidation. When used to support preservation, a microbiological challenge test and a complete preservative system are still required.

The effects of botanical extracts can vary depending on the plant species, the part used, the solvent and the level of marker compounds. Two raw materials with similar names may therefore not be interchangeable. A reputable supplier provides details of the extraction method, microbiological purity and standardisation. It is also advisable to monitor the colour, scent and stability of the finished product, as natural origin does not automatically mean there is no risk of irritation. A patch test on a small area is therefore also sensible.