Boron Nitride 15

This inorganic mineral powder has a layered crystalline structure and is manufactured with a precisely controlled particle size. In make-up, it acts as a silky filler, an optical modifier and an ingredient that improves adhesion. The higher number in the trade name generally indicates a different particle size grade from the finer variant.

Boron Nitride 15 gives powders, bronzers and foundations excellent slip and a soft feel. Larger plate-like particles can increase transparency, light diffusion and an elegant soft-focus effect. It helps distribute pigments evenly and reduces chalkiness. It is not a moisturising or anti-inflammatory ingredient. Its effects are visual and sensory, so they depend on the powder formulation as a whole.

In make-up, it is particularly suitable for normal, combination and oily skin. Light diffusion can soften the appearance of pores and uneven texture without a pronounced pearlescent sheen. For dry and mature skin, enough emollients need to be added to avoid emphasising flaky patches. Avoid inhaling loose powder products.

Cosmetic Ingredient Review examined the chemical, toxicological and clinical data on boron nitride and concluded that it is safe at typical cosmetic concentrations and under normal conditions of use (International Journal of Toxicology, 2015). The report describes its role as an ingredient that improves slip and texture, rather than as an active skin treatment.

The typical concentration is approximately 1 to 20 per cent. In pressed powders, it affects hardness, product pick-up and adhesion, so the binders need to be optimised. The particle size is chosen according to the desired finish. Minimising dust during manufacturing is essential.

For the user, its benefits are most apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. Good texture is not just an aesthetic quality, as it supports even application of active ingredients and regular use. When assessing the finished product, stability, pilling, stickiness and performance after applying SPF or make-up should be considered. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.