Troxerutin

This is a semi-synthetic flavonoid derived from rutin, a plant compound found in foods such as buckwheat and citrus fruits. Adding hydroxyethyl groups improves its water solubility and suitability for gels and serums. It has traditionally been studied for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and blood vessel-protective properties.

Troxerutin helps stabilise small blood vessels, reduce oxidative stress and dampen inflammatory signals associated with burning and redness. In cosmetics, it may help sensitive skin feel more comfortable and improve the appearance of skin with visible capillaries. It does not permanently remove dilated blood vessels or replace dermatological treatment for rosacea. Its effect is supportive and depends on regular use.

We recommend it for sensitive, reactive, redness-prone and mature skin, as well as skin prone to puffiness. It may be suitable for eye serums and after-sun products. For active rosacea, the formula should be very simple, with no fragrance or harsh acids. The yellowish colour of the raw ingredient may affect the product's appearance.

The clinical part of the study showed that concentrations of 0,1 per cent and 0,0095 per cent quickly reduced capsaicin-induced redness. A ten per cent concentration also reduced the subjective burning sensation and sensitivity to heat (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2024). The results support its soothing potential, but the high doses tested may not be suitable for everyday cosmetics.

In cosmetics, it is often used at approximately 0,05 to 1 per cent, depending on solubility and the supplier's recommendations. It is suitable for the water phase and lower-temperature processing. Colour, pH and stability under light exposure need to be monitored. Gradual introduction is recommended for sensitive skin.

Its soothing effect is most noticeable in a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at once. For reactive skin, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, significant flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.