Black powder

This is a fine carbon powder produced by carbonising plant material and then purifying it. If the material is activated, it develops a porous structure with a large surface area capable of adsorbing various molecules. In cosmetics, it is used as a black colourant, an absorbent and a visually striking ingredient in masks, soaps and cleansers.

Black powder traps some sebum and impurities on its surface and can help skin feel thoroughly cleansed in rinse-off products. It does not draw toxins from deep within the skin, and clinical evidence for treating acne or pigmentation is weak. Coarser particles can cause irritation through friction, so fineness, purity and a gentle formulation without harsh surfactants are important.

It is best suited to oily and combination skin in rinse-off masks with short application times or in cleansers. Dry, sensitive and eczema-prone skin may feel tight after using a highly absorbent product. For acne-prone skin, it is best to avoid harsh rubbing and detox claims that are not scientifically supported.

A dermatological review noted that although activated charcoal has proven adsorption capacity, clinical evidence to support claims that it treats acne, dandruff or dark spots in cosmetics is lacking (Dermatologic Clinics, 2020). The CIR safety assessment describes it primarily as an absorbent, abrasive and colourant, rather than a therapeutic active ingredient.

The concentration depends on the desired colour and absorption, often ranging from approximately 0,1 to 5 per cent. The powder must be well dispersed, and inhalation must be minimised during manufacture. In leave-on products, it may stain clothing or emphasise dry patches. Quality control must include checks for impurities and particle size.

With colouring ingredients, it is important to distinguish the optical effect from the biological effect. They can instantly even out or colour-correct the appearance of the skin, but they do not change the underlying cause of redness, pigmentation or inflammation. The final shade is always assessed in the finished base and on several skin tones. Product development should also include checks for colour migration, rub-off and light stability.