Centella extract

This botanical extract comes from a small Asian herb traditionally used to help skin heal. It contains triterpenes, particularly asiaticoside, madecassoside and their acids. The quality of the extract depends on the part of the plant used, the solvent and standardisation. In cosmetics, it is added to soothing serums, creams and after-sun products.

Centella extract supports fibroblast activity, collagen production and the renewal of the extracellular matrix. It also reduces inflammatory signals and oxidative stress, helping to ease redness and discomfort. It is not a medicine that heals instantly, but a supportive cosmetic ingredient. Combined with panthenol, beta-glucan and barrier lipids, it is suitable for weakened skin.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, acne-prone, mature and irritated skin. It is suitable for post-acne marks, over-exfoliated skin and skin exposed to wind or sun. It does not replace medical treatment for open wounds or active skin conditions. People with allergies to plant extracts should carry out a patch test.

A scientific review reports that topical triterpenes from Centella asiatica stimulated collagen synthesis, cell proliferation and burn healing. Clinical studies using extracts recorded faster healing and improved scar quality (Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2021). The effect depends on standardisation, so the results of one formulation cannot be applied to every unspecified extract.

It is used at approximately 0,1 to 5 per cent, depending on the concentration of the supplier's extract. Sensitive triterpenes are best added at a lower temperature. Colour and scent can affect the final product. Microbiological quality and stability at the chosen pH are important.

The effects of plant extracts can vary depending on the plant species, the part used, the solvent and the levels of marker compounds. Two raw materials with similar names may therefore not be interchangeable. A reputable supplier specifies the extraction method, microbiological purity and standardisation. It is also worth monitoring the colour, scent and stability of the finished product, as natural origin does not automatically mean there is no risk of irritation. A patch test on a small area is therefore sensible too.