SYN-HYCAN

This patented synthetic tripeptide molecule was designed to mimic the natural signals that activate TGF beta in the skin. It contains a lipid component for better affinity with the skin and is usually supplied in a water-glycerine carrier. It is not a fragment of hyaluronic acid, but a signalling peptide that supports the skin’s own production of it.

SYN-HYCAN activates processes that lead to the synthesis of hyaluronan and the proteoglycans decorin and lumican. These molecules help bind water and organise collagen fibres, so skin can appear plumper, firmer and more supple. The effect is biological and gradual, rather than an immediate physical filling effect. It works best in a stable hydrating formulation alongside protective lipids and antioxidants.

It is suitable for mature, dehydrated, thin skin and skin lacking firmness, especially where there is a loss of volume in the cheeks, neck and around the eyes. It can also be used on sensitive skin, as peptides tend to be gentler than retinoids. For oily skin, a lightweight base and a non-comedogenic oil phase are important.

The supplier’s laboratory data report an increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis of up to 300 per cent. In a clinical evaluation, more than 87 per cent of participants reported smoother, more supple skin, and approximately 70 per cent reported improved elasticity (DSM-Firmenich Clinical Evaluation). As these tests were funded by the manufacturer, specific product claims must reflect the concentration used and the product’s own testing.

The supplier’s solution is typically used at a concentration of approximately 1 to 3 per cent. It is added during the cool-down phase, ideally at the pH recommended by the manufacturer. Prolonged heating and extremely acidic or alkaline conditions can reduce the peptide’s stability.

When introducing targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.