Vanilla extract

This ingredient is a natural extract obtained from the fruit of the Vanilla planifolia orchid, combined with glycerine and water. Vanilla pods undergo a drying and fermentation process that develops their characteristic aroma and releases phenolic compounds such as vanillin, vanillic acid and other aromatic alcohols and aldehydes. Glycerine is a hygroscopic substance, meaning it attracts moisture; water serves as a carrier and solvent.

How it works: glycerine acts as a humectant – at the concentrations used in cosmetic products, it significantly increases hydration of the stratum corneum, supports skin barrier repair and improves skin elasticity. Vanilla extract also acts as an antioxidant – in a study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, vanilla extract at a concentration of 200 ppm showed approximately 43 % of the free-radical-scavenging activity of the reference antioxidant BHA, measured using the DPPH method ([pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17715988/?utm_source=openai)). According to a 2008 review, glycerine supports hydration, barrier repair, improved elasticity and faster healing by promoting aquaporin-3 expression and regulating lipid metabolism in the epidermis ([pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18510666/?utm_source=openai)).

Skin type: Dry and dehydrated skin benefits most – glycerine reduces dryness and roughness, while vanilla extract helps soften the skin and protect it against oxidative stress. For mature skin, the extract may help slow the signs of ageing. If you have sensitive skin, you should patch-test the product because of its potential fragrance component – vanilla can cause irritation in some cases. For oily and acne-prone skin, glycerine is suitable, while vanilla extract can provide a pleasant fragrance if it is non-comedogenic, although concentration matters.

Studies and safety: In a 2025 report, the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety assessed vanilla-derived ingredients and stated that Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is commonly used at concentrations of up to 0,33 % in leave-on products and up to 0,25 % in rinse-off products. These concentrations are considered safe provided the products are non-greasy and do not cause sensitivity in the user ([cir-safety.org](https://cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/vanill042018slr.pdf?utm_source=openai)). A study on the antioxidant activity of vanilla extract (200 ppm ≈ 0,02 %) showed that the extract achieves approximately 43 % of the DPPH activity of BHA, suggesting a modest but significant antioxidant effect when used in the right form and concentration ([pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17715988/?utm_source=openai)).