3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid

Vitamin C plays an important role in supporting healthy, radiant skin. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that regenerates and rejuvenates the skin. The outer layers of the skin — the epidermal and dermal layers — provide protection against the external environment, but environmental factors and UV radiation can compromise their resilience. Vitamin C helps minimise signs of ageing and sun damage. This substance is obtained by synthetically modifying natural L-ascorbic acid, which is found in plants such as rosehips and blackcurrants, to create a stable, bioactive derivative suitable for cosmetic use. Thanks to its partly hydrophilic and partly lipophilic nature, it penetrates deep into the skin without needing further conversion within the cells.

Its mechanism of action includes powerful antioxidant activity that neutralises free radicals, protects type I and III collagen fibres from breakdown and inhibits tyrosinase, preventing melanin formation. It stimulates collagen synthesis, restores the skin barrier and has an anti-inflammatory effect by blocking inflammatory mediators, soothing irritation and protecting against UV radiation and blue light. At concentrations of 2 %, it brightens the complexion and evens out skin tone, supports wound healing and minimises scars. It is stable at pH 5,0-6,5, does not oxidise and does not damage oils in formulations.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for sensitive skin because it does not cause irritation, soothes redness, fights acne by inhibiting inflammation, reduces hyperpigmentation and dark spots, evens out the tone of tired-looking skin and firms mature skin by supporting collagen. It is also suitable for sun-damaged skin or skin exposed to blue light from screens.

A clinical study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020) demonstrated that a 2 % concentration of 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid significantly reduced melanin in keratinocytes by 40 % compared with the control after 72 hours in vitro, confirming its ability to inhibit tyrosinase and its potential for addressing hyperpigmentation. Further research in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2019) showed that, at a concentration of 0,5-2 %, it stimulates collagen production in fibroblasts by 30 % more than pure vitamin C, thanks to better penetration and stability. These data support its safety and efficacy at concentrations of 2-10 % without toxicity.