Emulsifying wax

Glyceryl Stearate

This waxy substance occurs naturally in the human body and is produced by esterifying glycerin with stearic acid, which is obtained from plant sources such as palm, soy, or olive oil. It appears as a white to creamy solid that is surface-active and readily soluble in oils, but poorly soluble in water. It is used in certified natural cosmetics as well as in conventional products, where it may also be of synthetic origin, although a plant-based source is preferred. There is also a self-emulsifying variant with added sodium or potassium stearates, which facilitates mixing oil and water.

The mechanism of action lies in moisturizing the skin by forming a protective barrier that prevents water loss, thereby restoring the lipid barrier. It has emollient effects, softening and smoothing the skin's surface, reducing the greasiness of oils, and improving the sensory properties of products such as creaminess and slip. As an emulsifier, it combines water and oil, increases the stability of oil-in-water emulsions, promotes the absorption of other active ingredients, and protects against external influences including free radicals. The recommended concentration in emulsions is 2-6%, and higher doses increase viscosity and the waxy feel.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, and mature skin, where it supports hydration and protection. It is also suitable for oily skin at low concentrations because it reduces the greasy film of oils. It is ideal for products such as facial creams, body lotions, cleansing emulsions, shampoos, and decorative cosmetics, especially for people with a compromised skin barrier or a need for stable emulsions.

According to Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), glyceryl stearate is safe at concentrations up to 15% in leave-on products and up to 5% in rinse-off products, without sensitizing effects. A 1985 study confirmed that at concentrations of 5-10% it improves skin hydration by 20-30%, measured by transepidermal water loss after 4 weeks of application (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1985). Another EWG assessment classifies it as low risk.