SOS Rosacea - Intense Treatment Serum

Cucumber juice comes from the fruit of the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus L.), which belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family. It is a natural botanical extract obtained by steam distillation of cucumber fruit, preserving all the valuable substances of the original plant. This ingredient is used in cosmetics for its high water content – up to 96 per cent – and its rich profile of active components, including vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Cucumber juice offers a gentle, natural way to deliver key nutrients directly to the skin's surface without harsh chemical processing.

Cucumber juice works in several ways. It primarily acts as a powerful moisturising agent thanks to its high water content and potassium, which help maintain skin hydration and elasticity. It contains vitamin C, which acts as an antioxidant and fights free radicals and UV damage. Vitamin K and silica support collagen and skin firmness, helping to restore the skin barrier. Caffeic acid and fisetin provide anti-inflammatory benefits that soothe irritated and inflamed skin. Mild astringent properties gently improve skin texture and minimise the appearance of enlarged pores without the adverse effects typical of traditional astringents.

Cucumber juice is ideal for all skin types, particularly dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin. Its gentle nature also makes it an excellent choice for acne-prone skin that is sensitive to harsh ingredients. Its antimicrobial properties and alkaline pH create an environment in which bacteria cannot survive, helping to control acne. This ingredient is particularly suitable for people experiencing inflammation, redness or sensitivity around the eyes, and for those looking for a refreshing, soothing ingredient.

Scientific research confirms the effectiveness of cucumber juice: a study showed that a 5% cream with cucumber extract significantly increased IL-10 and VEGF levels in the skin (with values of 715,75 ± 152,65 ng/L for VEGF), supporting tissue regeneration and reducing inflammation associated with xerosis. Further clinical trials in humans demonstrated the safety of formulations containing up to 1% cucumber juice, with no skin irritation or sensitisation. The appearance of redness and swelling was reduced thanks to the cooling properties of this natural ingredient.

Water is a key ingredient in most cosmetic products, where it serves as a universal solvent for other active ingredients. It can come from various sources, including natural sources such as Dead Sea mineral water, rich in salts and minerals, or distilled water obtained from natural water cycles and free from impurities. In organic cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrolate, an aromatic water obtained by distilling plants that retains essential oils and other beneficial compounds. Synthetic water is uncommon; in practice, this refers to purified or demineralised water treated to ensure formulation stability, helping to keep products safe and give them a long shelf life.

Its main function is to hydrate the skin by binding and delivering moisture to the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, where a water concentration of just 10 % is needed to maintain suppleness and softness. It restores the skin’s natural barrier by supporting the delivery of active ingredients and preventing dryness. At concentrations typically above 70 % in emulsions, it acts as a carrier for water-soluble substances such as vitamins or hyaluronic acid, enhancing their hydrating and antioxidant effects. Its neutral nature helps soothe irritated skin, and it supports detoxification.

It is recommended for all skin types, particularly dry, dehydrated, sensitive and irritated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and eases discomfort. For oily and acne-prone skin, it is ideal at low concentrations in lightweight gels or toners, where it does not clog pores and helps keep them clean. Mature skin benefits from its ability to improve elasticity when combined with oils. It is also suitable for children and newborns in soothing products.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science showed that formulations containing 80-90 % aqua combined with humectants increased stratum corneum hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of daily use (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Dermatology confirmed that Dead Sea water at a concentration of 5 % in a serum improved skin barrier function by 30 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in patients with dry skin (International Journal of Dermatology, 2015).

This is a water-soluble derivative of a dicarboxylic acid, in which the active component is linked to the amino acid glycine and neutralised with potassium. It is produced through controlled synthesis to improve the solubility and tolerability of the original acid. The ingredient is suitable for lightweight water-based serums and emulsions, where the poorly soluble original molecule is more difficult to use.

Azeclair PAD helps regulate excess sebum production, supports a more even skin tone and also provides hydration. Its mechanism involves inhibiting the enzyme 5 alpha reductase, regulating pigment production processes and the presence of the glycine component. Compared with conventional azelaic acid, it tends to feel more comfortable on the skin and causes less stinging, although it is not exactly the same substance or a substitute for dermatological treatment.

We recommend it for oily, combination, acne-prone skin and skin with pigmentation, as well as sensitive skin that does not tolerate strong acids well. It is suitable for shine, enlarged pores, post-acne marks and uneven skin tone. In cases of active rosacea or an impaired skin barrier, a new product should be introduced gradually and without other irritating ingredients.

When a 3 per cent aqueous solution was applied twice daily for three weeks, skin lipid levels fell by 29,4 per cent on the forehead, 27,0 per cent on the nose and 31,5 per cent on the chin. Hydration increased by 12,7 per cent on the forehead and 8,2 per cent on the cheek (Cosmetics and Toiletries, 2002). The study was small, involving five volunteers.

In finished products, it is often used at approximately 3 to 10 per cent of the supplier's solution, depending on the active ingredient content. It is suitable for a pH of approximately 5 to 7. Even with good tolerability, the complete formulation must be tested for compatibility, stability and efficacy.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

This bioactive extract is obtained from an edible subtropical fruit originally grown in South America. The manufacturer uses a standardised process to preserve molecules that influence stress signalling in the skin. This plant-derived ingredient is mainly used in products for sensitive skin, uncomfortable itching and visible signs of stress-related fatigue.

AnnonaSense CLR acts on signalling involving substance P, cytokines and the IL-31RA receptor. The aim is to reduce itching, reactivity and redness that worsen with psychological or environmental stress. The extract does not act as an anaesthetic, but supports a more balanced skin response. It may improve skin comfort and appearance, particularly as part of a simple, fragrance-free formula that supports the skin barrier.

We recommend it for sensitive, reactive, dry and stressed skin that frequently itches, stings or reacts to changes in temperature. It may also be suitable for rosacea-prone skin, provided the product as a whole contains no irritating ingredients. It is not intended as a treatment for atopic dermatitis or psychological stress, but as supportive skincare.

In a supplier clinical study involving volunteers with sensitive skin and high levels of daily stress, perceived skin comfort and appearance improved, itching decreased and measurements suggested lower systemic cortisol production (CLR Skin-Brain Study). As this is a proprietary extract and the data are manufacturer-funded, claims should be tied to the recommended concentration.

The supplier usually recommends a concentration of approximately 1 to 3 per cent. The extract is added during the cool-down phase at a mild pH. In products for sensitive skin, it makes sense to combine it with betaine, panthenol, oats or barrier lipids and leave out fragrance.

The soothing effect is best supported by a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at once. For reactive skin, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent stinging, pronounced flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

Niacin, or vitamin B3, belongs to the B vitamin complex. Vitamin B3 is a collective term for nicotinic acid and niacin. It occurs naturally in foods such as meat, fish, nuts and wholegrain products, but cosmetics use a synthetic form or organic extracts from yeast and plants. This water-soluble vitamin is essential for cellular metabolism and the synthesis of the coenzyme NAD, which supports energy processes in skin cells. In cosmetic products, it is added in the stable form of niacinamide, which is readily absorbed into the skin without causing irritation.

It protects the skin and improves its health. It plays a role in cellular metabolism, helping enzymatic processes function properly. Its mechanism of action includes moisturising the skin by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and free fatty acids, thereby restoring the skin barrier. It has powerful antioxidant properties that neutralise free radicals and protect against oxidative stress. It soothes inflammation by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and promotes exfoliation by regulating keratinisation. Recommended concentrations are 2-5 % for hydration and barrier repair, and up to 10 % for pigmentation and acne.

Niacin helps the skin retain water, improves the condition of sensitive skin (including skin with rosacea) and strengthens its defences. It is also excellent for supporting acne treatment, both topically and orally. It is useful even for severe forms of acne. It improves the appearance of ageing skin and brightens the complexion, making it suitable for reducing pigmentation and age spots. It plumps and hydrates the skin and prevents water loss. Its benefits extend well beyond our skin and hair. I recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for rosacea, eczema, hyperpigmentation and anti-ageing care, as it strengthens the barrier without clogging pores.

This vitamin is important for the proper functioning of the whole body, and a deficiency can cause fatigue, digestive problems, mental illness and depression, for example. A clinical study showed that niacinamide at a concentration of 4 % reduced hyperpigmentation by 35-68 % after 4-8 weeks in patients with melasma (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004). Further research confirmed that 4 % niacinamide reduced acne lesions by 52 %, while 2 % niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation by 44 % after 8 weeks (International Journal of Dermatology, 2002). High-dose oral supplementation (1 g daily) reduced acne symptoms by 50 % after 8 weeks (Botanic.sk study).

Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Glycoin natural is pure, natural glyceryl glucoside, produced biotechnologically through a patented enzymatic reaction. It consists of a specific stereoisomer found exclusively as a stress-protection molecule in the plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia and blue-green algae (“Spirulina”). This small polysaccharide belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes. Extremolytes are stress-protection molecules that protect extremophile plants and microorganisms from lethal conditions in their habitats. They allow them to survive and thrive in extreme environments such as salt lakes, deserts, Arctic ice or hot springs. Glycoin natural is derived from the plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia. This little plant thrives in African deserts under extreme conditions such as prolonged drought, high temperatures and extreme UV radiation. It has the unique ability to survive very long periods of complete dehydration. During extreme drought, the plant's leaves shrink and appear dead. Then, suddenly, a miracle of nature occurs: during the rare moments of rainfall in the desert, the plant comes back to life. It turns green again and restores its vital functions within just two hours. Prolonged drought causes it to dry out again, and it waits once more for the next miracle of resurrection: rain. The stress-protection molecule Glycoin natural makes the fascinating survival and resurrection of the Myrothamnus plant possible. Glycoin natural protects the plant's structure from damage as it dries out and, as soon as water becomes available again, stimulates the plant and restores its cellular functions. This fascinating restorative and strengthening activity of Glycoin natural can also benefit our skin.

Glycoin natural acts as a powerful moisturiser and skin barrier restorer, while stimulating cellular vitality and providing antioxidant protection. It stimulates ATP production in aged skin cells, increasing their metabolic activity. It strengthens the skin's own immune system, promotes the proliferation of new dermal cells and stimulates type I procollagen synthesis even in ageing cells. It improves the density of mature skin, reduces pigmentation and has a soothing effect after sunburn. In in vivo tests, it increases skin hydration by 24 percent, smoothness by 61 percent and elasticity by up to 93 percent. The optimal concentration in cosmetic formulations ranges from 1 to 5 percent for maximum efficacy without irritation.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, helping to restore hydration and vitality. It is also suitable for skin exposed to environmental stress, such as UV radiation or dry air, and for those seeking natural anti-ageing support. Thanks to its soothing properties, it also benefits irritated skin after sun exposure.

An in vivo study involving a panel of 20 volunteers demonstrated that Glycoin natural at a concentration of 2 percent increases the metabolic activity of ageing skin cells by 170 percent after 28 days of application (clinical tests by bitop AG, 2015). Another in vivo test involving 30 women showed a 61 percent increase in skin smoothness and a 93 percent increase in elasticity after 4 weeks of daily use in a serum (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018).

This is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which has long been used in medicine for its ability to influence the plasmin system. In cosmetics, it is used at lower topical concentrations to address uneven skin tone. It is water-soluble, has no pronounced colour and, at the right pH, can be incorporated into serums, emulsions and targeted treatment products.

Tranexamic Acid limits plasmin activation and the subsequent communication between keratinocytes and melanocytes, which increases following UV exposure and inflammation. This may help reduce excess pigment production in melasma and post-inflammatory dark spots. It does not exfoliate or mechanically remove pigment. Results develop gradually and must be supported by daily broad-spectrum sun protection.

We recommend it for skin with pigmentation, including sensitive, acne-prone and mature skin with sun spots, melasma or post-inflammatory marks. Compared with several other acids, it is generally well tolerated, but sensitive skin may experience dryness or stinging. Pregnant people and those with blood clotting disorders should always consult a doctor before medical use, although topical cosmetic doses are different.

A randomised, double-blind study involving 99 patients compared 2 per cent tranexamic acid with 2 per cent niacinamide in a niosomal base, conventional 5 per cent tranexamic acid and 4 per cent hydroquinone. After three months, all groups showed significant reductions in both the melanin index and mMASI, and the tranexamic acid formulations caused less severe adverse reactions (Scientific Reports, 2025).

In cosmetics, it is commonly used at approximately 2 to 5 per cent. Complete solubility, a suitable pH and compatibility with the preservative system are important. Melasma requires long-term use and consistent SPF protection, as pigmentation may return after discontinuing use or following sun exposure.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

Origin and key information:

This active ingredient is a 100 per cent natural multi-complex made up of fermented polysaccharides. It is produced through a biotechnological process in which polysaccharides are obtained from plant-derived sorbitol and peptone through fermentation. Under natural cosmetics standards, biotechnological processes such as microbial fermentation are considered acceptable methods for producing natural cosmetic raw materials. This makes it a highly pure and consistent natural extract, free from synthetic ingredients and genetically modified raw materials. Thanks to the macromolecular structure of its polysaccharides, it is a powerful natural moisturising agent with exceptional potential for skin care.

Function and mechanism of action:

This ingredient acts primarily as an intensive moisturising agent with immediate and long-lasting effects. Thanks to its complex polysaccharide structure, it forms a fine, impermeable film on the skin's surface, effectively protecting it from environmental influences and preventing moisture loss. It also actively restores the skin's natural moisture barrier. Its structure allows extracellular enzymes to break it down relatively easily into simpler sugars with strong moisturising properties, while it acts as a natural water-binding agent. The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing irritation and easing allergic reactions. It reduces inflammatory processes in the skin and provides a toning effect. It does not leave a shiny or greasy finish, making it suitable for problem skin too.

Clinical results and statistics:

Clinical testing has confirmed the exceptional effectiveness of this ingredient. One hour after application, skin hydration increases by 44 per cent. Three hours after application, the increase in hydration reaches 79 per cent, demonstrating a long-lasting and cumulative moisturising effect. This significant hydration is attributed to the action of skin enzymes, which accelerate the penetration of active ingredients deeper into the dermis.

Recommended skin types:

This ingredient is suitable for all skin types. It is particularly recommended for sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and supports regeneration. Its soothing effect also makes it ideal for irritated and reactive skin. It leaves the skin soft, smooth and beautifully silky, enhancing its feeling of comfort. As it leaves no stickiness or greasy shine, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. A distinctive feature of this ingredient is that it leaves no unwanted residue, keeping the skin feeling fresh and nourished.

Certification and environmental value:

This natural multi-complex is certified to prestigious international standards for natural and organic cosmetics. COSMOS Organic and ECOCERT certification guarantees that the ingredient meets the strictest requirements for natural origin and environmental sustainability. Under COSMOS certification standards, natural cosmetics must be made only from natural raw materials or materials obtained through biotechnological processes, a requirement this ingredient fully meets.

Polyfructose extracted from chicory root (Cichorium Intybus) and enzymatically purified to a chain length of more than 10 fructose units. In addition to restoring the skin microbiome, it provides cells with the energy they need for their metabolism and functions. A new, scientifically tested skin prebiotic. A prebiotic is essentially a selective nutritional supplement for our protective, beneficial skin microbiota. Harmful microorganisms cannot metabolise the prebiotic. This strengthens and balances the skin's natural microbiota while putting harmful microorganisms at a disadvantage. As our first line of defence, our skin microbiota is constantly exposed to harsh environmental conditions. Pollution, excessive UV exposure, household chemicals and harsh cosmetics can disrupt its delicate balance. Its only resources for survival are dead corneocytes, sebum and oxidised skin lipids. Sometimes this is simply not enough to cope with environmental conditions. When this barrier weakens, our skin becomes sensitive, dry, infected, itchy and wrinkled: the skin ages. The solution to slowing skin ageing and keeping skin healthy is to provide energy for, and protect, this precious barrier formed by the skin microbiota. Protecting, strengthening and balancing the human skin microbiota is a key strategy for maintaining skin health and beauty. The prebiotic culture significantly improves the skin microbiota, making skin more resilient and healthier.

It works by selectively feeding beneficial bacteria in the skin microbiome, helping to restore the skin barrier, moisturise the skin and provide antioxidant action. It supplies cells with energy for their metabolism, promotes the growth of beneficial microorganisms and puts harmful ones at a disadvantage. It forms a light protective film, maintains the skin's slightly acidic pH and reduces oxidative stress. Clinical studies show that regular use helps maintain skin barrier homeostasis, triggers antioxidant responses and increases skin hydration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, irritated, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for skin weakened by external factors such as pollution or UV exposure, helping to strengthen its defences and improve hydration. Suitable for all skin types, especially those with a disrupted microbiota, as seen in acne, eczema or ageing skin.

Clinical studies show that regular use of the prebiotic complex increases skin hydration over 28 days and helps maintain skin barrier homeostasis (Prebiulin clinical tests, Givaudan). Prebiotics reduce inflammation and strengthen the barrier, helping to reduce redness in sensitive skin (studies on probiotics and prebiotics in cosmetics, AntiAge.sk).

Ectoin® natural comes from a natural source – it is a bioactive molecule isolated from extremophilic microorganisms that occur naturally in hypersaline environments. This ingredient is the result of an evolutionary adaptation that allows organisms to protect their cells against extreme conditions. Ectoin belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes – natural osmoprotectants that enable cells to survive in harsh environments. Its natural origin and complex mechanism of action place it among the most advanced bioactive ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This ingredient works in several ways to restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Ectoin acts as a powerful water-binding agent, retaining water deep within the skin and increasing hydration by up to 200 percent compared with untreated skin. It also acts as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and protecting cells from damage caused by UV radiation, blue light and environmental pollution. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces inflammation and supports the repair of a damaged skin barrier, helping to soothe irritation and sensitivity.

Ectoin® natural is ideally suited to sensitive, dehydrated, stressed and mature skin. It is recommended for people with dry, irritated areas, as well as those whose skin is affected by inflammatory conditions. It also brings relief to skin exposed to intense sunlight or environmental stress. Its gentle nature means it can also be used on oily and acne-prone skin without the risk of further irritation.

Clinical studies confirm its significant effects: during a 12-day trial, skin hydration increased by up to 200 percent, and this level of hydration was maintained for a further 7 days after application stopped. After 10 days of regular use, the increased hydration level remained almost constant until day 19 of the study, highlighting its long-lasting moisturising effect.

This water-soluble salt is derived from glycyrrhizic acid, the main sweet component of liquorice root. Converting it into a potassium salt improves its solubility and suitability for water-based serums and emulsions. It is a popular soothing ingredient for sensitive skin and is often combined with panthenol, oats or niacinamide.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate suppresses inflammatory signals, helps reduce redness and uncomfortable itching, and helps soothe skin with a weakened barrier. It also has antioxidant and mild antimicrobial properties. It is neither a corticosteroid nor a treatment for eczema, but a gentle cosmetic ingredient that supports the skin. In a hydrating formulation, it may reduce reactivity caused by dryness, cleansing or environmental stress.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, reactive, acne-prone skin and skin prone to redness. It is also suitable for use in aftershave and after-sun products, or when using retinoids. If you have diagnosed dermatitis, it should be part of a simple skincare routine approved by a dermatologist. An allergy to liquorice is rare, but possible.

A clinical study in adults with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis showed that regular use of an emollient containing dipotassium glycyrrhizate reduced symptoms and the frequency of flare-ups (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2025). The result applied to the complete emollient formulation, so the effect cannot be attributed solely to one ingredient.

It is commonly used at a concentration of approximately 0,1 to 1 per cent. It is water-soluble and suitable for the cool-down phase. The formulation should have a slightly acidic to neutral pH. For sensitive skin, it is important to minimise fragrance and harsh preservative or exfoliating systems.

Its soothing effect is best achieved in a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at the same time. If your skin is reactive, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, significant flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

Allantoin is a natural metabolite found in a variety of plants, including horse chestnut, comfrey, maple and wheat germ. In the cosmetics industry, it is extracted from organically grown plants, ensuring its natural and sustainable origin. This active ingredient is recognised worldwide for its multifunctional skincare properties.

Allantoin works primarily by providing intensive hydration and restoring the skin's natural barrier. It acts as a proven humectant, helping to retain moisture in the deeper layers of the skin. It also has soothing properties and helps reduce redness and irritation. Allantoin stimulates skin tissue regeneration and supports collagen synthesis, helping to renew the skin and minimise visible imperfections. At concentrations of 0,1 to 0,5 %, it has mild keratolytic effects, gently removing dead skin cells without harsh action. It also provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and UV radiation.

Allantoin is an ideal choice particularly for sensitive and irritated skin, including skin prone to eczema and atopic dermatitis. It also works exceptionally well on dry, dehydrated and mature skin in need of intensive regeneration and renewal. Its gentle action makes it safe even for the skin of newborns and young children. It is also recommended for skin with concerns such as acne or psoriasis, as its soothing and healing effects do not cause irritation. It shows no signs of toxicity or potential to cause allergic reactions.

Scientific research confirms allantoin's effectiveness in practice. According to dermatological and cosmetic studies, allantoin at concentrations of 0,2 to 0,5 %, combined with other ingredients, reduces skin irritation and supports regeneration within two to four weeks of regular use. Its keratoplastic and collagen-stimulating properties have long been documented in scientific literature, making it one of the most trusted ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This is a semi-synthetic flavonoid derived from rutin, a plant compound found in foods such as buckwheat and citrus fruits. Adding hydroxyethyl groups improves its water solubility and suitability for gels and serums. It has traditionally been studied for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and blood vessel-protective properties.

Troxerutin helps stabilise small blood vessels, reduce oxidative stress and dampen inflammatory signals associated with burning and redness. In cosmetics, it may help sensitive skin feel more comfortable and improve the appearance of skin with visible capillaries. It does not permanently remove dilated blood vessels or replace dermatological treatment for rosacea. Its effect is supportive and depends on regular use.

We recommend it for sensitive, reactive, redness-prone and mature skin, as well as skin prone to puffiness. It may be suitable for eye serums and after-sun products. For active rosacea, the formula should be very simple, with no fragrance or harsh acids. The yellowish colour of the raw ingredient may affect the product's appearance.

The clinical part of the study showed that concentrations of 0,1 per cent and 0,0095 per cent quickly reduced capsaicin-induced redness. A ten per cent concentration also reduced the subjective burning sensation and sensitivity to heat (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2024). The results support its soothing potential, but the high doses tested may not be suitable for everyday cosmetics.

In cosmetics, it is often used at approximately 0,05 to 1 per cent, depending on solubility and the supplier's recommendations. It is suitable for the water phase and lower-temperature processing. Colour, pH and stability under light exposure need to be monitored. Gradual introduction is recommended for sensitive skin.

Its soothing effect is most noticeable in a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at once. For reactive skin, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, significant flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.

In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.

It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.

A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.

During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.

This water-soluble polymer is made by modifying natural cellulose. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, stabiliser and gelling agent. It has no pronounced colour or scent and allows the creation of clear to slightly opalescent serums. It is a functional ingredient in the formula, not an active botanical ingredient with a direct rejuvenating effect.

Hydroxyethylcellulose increases the viscosity of the water phase, keeps insoluble particles evenly dispersed and makes the product easier to dispense. It forms a fine film on the skin, which can reduce the feeling of roughness and help distribute hydrating or exfoliating active ingredients evenly. On its own, it does not replenish ceramides or stimulate collagen. At the right concentration, it gives the product a smooth glide, but too much can cause stringiness, stickiness or pilling.

In finished products, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as it is a non-ionic and generally well-tolerated polymer. It is useful in acid-based serums, hydrating gels, cleansers and scalp products. Suitability for a particular skin type always depends on the active ingredients and the preservative system.

Researchers used hydroxyethylcellulose as the base for a dermal hydrogel to deliver khellin and assessed its permeation and acute toxicity. The gel provided a stable carrier medium and enabled controlled delivery through the skin (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021). The study demonstrates the polymer's role as a safe carrier, not a therapeutic effect of its own.

The typical concentration is approximately 0,1 to 1,5 per cent. The powder should be dispersed slowly in water and allowed to hydrate fully to prevent lumps. The manufacturer must monitor viscosity at the target pH and compatibility with electrolytes, surfactants and high levels of active ingredients.

For the user, its benefits are mainly apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves when SPF or make-up is applied afterwards. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.

Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.