SOS Anti-Wrinkle - Intense Treatment Serum

An exceptionally precious essential oil is extracted from the pleasantly scented white flowers of the bitter orange tree, which also yield a remarkable, exquisite hydrolat whose beneficial properties are used in cosmetics and hydrolat therapy. This organic hydrolat is produced as a by-product of the steam distillation of Citrus aurantium amara flowers, grown organically without chemical sprays. It is a 100 % natural product rich in natural essential oils, flavonoids and antioxidants that occur naturally in this plant native to the Mediterranean region. Unlike synthetic alternatives, it retains the full profile of bioactive compounds, ensuring greater quality and efficacy in cosmetic formulations. The production process is environmentally friendly, with no added preservatives or chemicals, making it ideal for organic cosmetics certified to strict standards.

NEROLI hydrolat has regenerating properties and stimulates the formation of new cells. It brightens the skin, enhancing its radiance and luminosity. It soothes and refreshes the skin at the same time. It works by moisturising the skin through its natural hydrating ability, restoring the skin barrier through flavonoids that strengthen the lipid layer, and providing antioxidant protection against free radicals. It also has a gentle exfoliating effect by stimulating cell renewal and significantly soothes irritation. In cosmetics, it is recommended at concentrations of 5-20 % in toners, serums or masks for optimal results without the risk of irritation.

It is particularly recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, where it effectively reduces redness and supports elasticity. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its refreshing and soothing properties, which regulate sebum production without drying the skin. For sensitive skin types, it is ideal as a gentle toner after cleansing. A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2015) showed that neroli oil at a concentration of 1 % reduced stress levels by 25 % in women following a hysterectomy over 4 weeks of inhalation, confirming its soothing effects on both the skin and the mind. Further research in the International Journal of Neuroscience (2009) reported that neroli aromatherapy increased parasympathetic nervous system activity by 18 %, promoting relaxation and skin regeneration. It has a beautiful fragrance used in both aromatherapy and perfumery. It is used therapeutically for its calming properties. It is excellent for depression, anxiety, mood swings, fear and shock, and helps combat insomnia.

An alpha-hydroxy acid, more commonly known as an AHA. It is isolated from natural sources, mainly sugar cane and sugar beet, as well as pineapple or grapes. It is an exceptionally potent active ingredient. As well as being obtained from natural sources, it can be produced synthetically for greater purity and stability, which is common in cosmetic manufacturing. Organic cosmetics favour extracts from certified plant sources, such as sugar cane, which offers an environmentally friendly alternative without chemical additives. This substance is one of the smallest AHAs, allowing it to act effectively on the skin.

It has a very low molecular weight, so it not only "works" on the skin's surface, where it removes the hardened layer of dead skin cells, but also penetrates the skin easily, influencing functions across all its layers. This delivers quick, visible results. It exfoliates by removing dead cells, hydrates by helping the skin retain moisture, restores the skin barrier by stimulating cell renewal, and acts as an antioxidant against free radicals. It soothes irritated skin and regulates sebum production. Recommended concentrations are 5-10 % for home care, with higher concentrations of 20-70 % for supervised professional peels.

It brightens the skin and prevents melanin from clustering, helping to prevent unwanted pigmentation. It unclogs pores and clears excess sebum, preventing the overgrowth of bacteria within the pores and reducing acne and blackheads. It stimulates collagen and elastin production, helping to reduce lines and wrinkles. It softens the skin, giving it a healthier appearance and improving its overall texture. It creates a funnel-like pathway in the skin, helping active ingredients penetrate significantly better. Ideal for dry, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin, especially for those with hyperpigmentation or rough skin texture. On sensitive skin, use with caution and increase the concentration gradually.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2002) demonstrated that daily application of 8 % glycolic acid for 22 weeks led to a 19 % improvement in skin smoothness and a 25 % reduction in the length of fine lines in women with photoaged skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (1996) showed that a 12 % concentration increased collagen synthesis in the dermal layer by 14,6 % after 6 months, as measured histologically.

The earliest records of aloe vera as a medicinal plant date back thousands of years to ancient Egypt. Hippocrates also used aloe vera in his treatments, and Christopher Columbus called it the “doctor in a pot”. Aloe barbadensis is the most precious and sought-after variety of aloe vera among around 300 species of this plant. Cleopatra herself used its beauty benefits to help maintain her beauty and keep her skin and body fresh and full of vitality. Aloe vera is a source of a wide range of vital elements, including vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E), minerals (calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, chlorine, as well as manganese, copper, zinc and chromium), amino acids (aloe vera contains as many as eight essential amino acids), and even enzymes, lectins and saponins – active substances that act against viruses, bacteria, fungi and infections. “Cleansing” lignin allows substances to penetrate deep into the skin. Anthraquinones help relieve pain and combat bacterial growth and viruses. The juice of this plant has adaptogenic properties, meaning that each cell in the human body uses only the substances it currently needs. To preserve these nutritional qualities, found in the gel-like substance inside the aloe vera leaf, the plant must be grown and processed correctly to prevent oxidation, which reduces its beneficial substances. When exposed to oxygen for more than 4 hours, the gel-like substance in the leaf oxidises and loses its value (you may recognise a similar reaction in a freshly cut apple, which quickly turns brown). Aloe must be stabilised. Stabilisation is a patented cold process that ensures the aloe stays just as it would be if you had freshly cut the leaf yourself. This process uses neither heat (stabilisation takes place at around 30 °C) nor chemicals, as these would destroy aloe vera's active components. Aloe vera protects the body from the harmful effects of oxygen free radicals, repairs and regenerates damaged cells and tissue, and can guide immune cells to the site of damage. Aloe vera has powerful detoxifying properties that help the body remove waste materials, toxins and bacteria, including from your digestive system.

Aloe vera juice intensely hydrates the skin thanks to polysaccharides, which form a protective film and lock moisture deep within the skin without leaving a greasy feel. It restores the skin barrier through vitamins and minerals that support cell regeneration and collagen production. As an antioxidant, it protects vitamins C, E and beta-carotene from free radicals, slowing skin ageing. It gently exfoliates thanks to enzymes that remove dead skin cells, and soothes irritation with anti-inflammatory compounds such as acemannan. Studies show that at concentrations above 1 %, it significantly improves hydration and regeneration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for reactive skin after sun exposure, shaving or treatments, where it soothes redness. For acne-prone skin, it regulates sebum and cleanses pores without clogging them. For mature skin, it supports elasticity and reduces wrinkles.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2009) showed that aloe vera gel at a concentration of 0,5 % accelerated wound healing by 72 % compared with the control group after 12 days. Another study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014) showed that aloe vera at a concentration of 1 % increased collagen synthesis by 25 % in a culture of human fibroblasts.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

This water-binding ingredient acts as a moisturiser and skin softener in cosmetics. It helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. Another key benefit of pentylene glycol is that, unlike conventional alcohol, it does not have a drying effect, even at higher concentrations. Pentylene glycol is an excellent aid for macerating herbs. It does not dry the skin like conventional alcohol and, thanks to its properties, extracts both water-soluble and fat-soluble substances from herbs. Pentylene Glycol also helps prevent the growth of microorganisms on the skin. It is water-soluble, acts as a solubiliser and is colourless and odourless. Pentylene glycol is made from sugar cane bagasse and corn cobs and is certified by Ecocert Cosmos and NATRUE. The raw materials used in its production are not derived from GMO sources. This ingredient comes from renewable plant sources: bagasse is a by-product of cane sugar production, while maize provides fermentable starches, ensuring sustainable production without relying on petrochemical derivatives.

Its action is primarily based on its ability to retain moisture: it binds water in the skin and prevents moisture loss, restoring the lipid barrier. It also has antimicrobial properties that inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi, allowing it to act as a gentle preservative. It helps active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin without disrupting its structure. At concentrations of 1 to 5 per cent, it is recommended as a safe humectant and solubiliser; at 3 per cent, it significantly reduces microbial contamination without causing irritation.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, providing effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its non-comedogenic and antimicrobial properties, which help prevent inflammation without clogging pores. It is ideal for sensitive skin, including children's skin, as it contains no harsh preservatives and minimises the risk of irritation.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) showed that pentylene glycol at a concentration of 4 per cent inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 per cent and Candida albicans by 99,8 per cent after 48 hours of exposure, confirming its strong antimicrobial effects while remaining safe for the skin. Further research in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2008) reports that, at a concentration of 2 per cent, it reduces microbial contamination in cosmetic emulsions by 4 log units within 7 days.

This microbiotic ingredient consists of an algae biocomplex enriched with a marine exopolysaccharide and minerals from seawater. The skin microbiota comprises various types of microorganisms that play a key role in skin health. It is important for beneficial bacteria to remain in balance with harmful ones, even amid our sometimes stressful lifestyles. The formula is designed to mimic a healthy, balanced diet for the skin. It combines ingredients that provide nutrients to support beneficial bacteria and regulate harmful ones. Thanks to their nutrient-rich composition, algae can balance the biodiversity of the skin flora. They actively accumulate water and marine nutrients in their cells, which they can then deliver to our skin. These nutrients include carbohydrates, which provide energy for skin cell renewal, peptides to support the growth of new cells, and amino acids to improve skin firmness. The complex combines an extract of the brown seaweed Laminaria digitata with an extract of the green freshwater microalga Chlorella vulgaris, both of which contain more than 20 minerals. Laminaria digitata, also known as Atlantic kelp, is a seaweed found along coastlines. It is rich in compounds with specific uses in the cosmetics industry, such as polygalactosides, fucose polymers and ursolic acid. Polygalactosides form a protective, moisturising complex on the skin's surface, while fucose polymers act as hydrating agents and ursolic acid provides a protective barrier. The green microalga Chlorella vulgaris contains a wide range of vitamins, amino acids, polysaccharides and chlorophyll. These substances stimulate collagen synthesis, help maintain skin hydration and support skin revitalisation. For cosmetic use, it is prepared by biofermentation followed by drying or extraction, yielding a product rich in biologically active substances. This microalga is known for a rare peptide complex called Chlorella growth factor, which enables it to grow at a remarkable rate during photosynthesis. It detoxifies the skin, soothes blemish-prone skin with a tendency to acne, and stimulates the regeneration of damaged and ageing cells. The extract of this type of Chlorella is packed with the amino acids glycine, alanine, lysine and proline, which are the building blocks of collagen in mature skin. It also improves skin tone evenness thanks to another ingredient: seawater. Seawater can effectively treat both atopic eczema and acne, which results from the interaction between oily skin and bacteria. Its high content of minerals that absorb toxins leaves the skin clean, nourished and detoxified.

It acts as a prebiotic, supporting the balance of the skin microbiota by providing nutrients to beneficial bacteria and regulating harmful ones. It moisturises the skin through carbohydrates, polysaccharides and minerals that bind water and form a protective film. It restores the skin barrier with the help of polygalactosides, fucose polymers and ursolic acid, which strengthen the hydrolipid layer. It acts as an antioxidant thanks to chlorophyll and polyphenols from algae, which neutralise free radicals. It soothes irritation and inflammation by regulating the microbiome and restoring pH to the 4,5-5,5 range. It supports detoxification and cell regeneration by stimulating collagen synthesis. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 1-5 % for optimal results without irritation.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. Ideal for skin exposed to stress or UV radiation, or with a disrupted microbiota, as in eczema or acne. It supports microbiome health in all skin types, particularly those with an imbalanced pH or a compromised barrier.

According to a clinical study, after 1 week of twice-daily application, the number of harmful bacteria decreased by 36 %, while beneficial bacteria that protect against UV radiation increased by 400 %. Balancing the microbiota led to the restoration of the skin's pH and a reduction in redness (manufacturer Actibiome, 2022). Another study confirmed that beneficial bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis produce the enzyme urocanase, which breaks down cis-urocanic acid formed under UVB radiation, thereby protecting the skin from damage (Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2020).

Fermented Alteromonas algae is obtained through a biotechnological process from marine microorganisms of the genus Alteromonas, which occur naturally in marine ecosystems. It is a biological extract produced by fermentation, which yields highly concentrated polysaccharides and bioactive peptides without chemical synthesis. This naturally derived ingredient meets the strict COSMOS certification standards, which require at least 95 % natural raw materials and environmentally friendly production processes. Dulcia natural uses a high-quality Alteromonas algae extract that meets the most stringent COSMOS certification requirements, a prestigious global certification for natural and organic cosmetics.

With regular use, this ingredient helps tighten collagen fibres in the skin, visibly plumping and softening wrinkles with an immediate effect. It smooths the skin, evens out its texture and reduces roughness just 15 minutes after application. It stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis. Its mechanism of action involves restoring the skin barrier by strengthening the collagen network, providing antioxidant protection against free radicals and moisturising by binding water in the deeper layers of the epidermis. At concentrations of 1-3 %, it shows significant tightening effects, as confirmed by clinical tests.

We particularly recommend it for mature skin with visible wrinkles, dry and dehydrated skin that is losing elasticity, and sensitive skin prone to roughness. It is ideal for women over 35 looking for immediate smoothing and long-term prevention of skin ageing. It is also suitable for restoring the skin barrier after summer sun exposure.

A clinical study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that applying Alteromonas ferment extract at a concentration of 2 % led to a 25 % reduction in wrinkle depth and an 18 % increase in skin elasticity after 28 days of use in 30 female volunteers aged 40-55. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) confirmed a 35 % increase in collagen synthesis in vitro in human fibroblasts.

This peptide solution contains an anti-wrinkle octapeptide that reduces expression lines through a mechanism of action similar to botulinum toxin. It consists of 8 amino acids and an octapeptide that reduces the appearance of wrinkles and expression lines. Its water-binding properties help hydrate and smooth the skin. It reduces the depth of wrinkles caused by facial muscle contractions, particularly on the forehead and around the eyes. When applied topically, this remarkable peptide delivers results comparable to botulinum toxin injections. It relaxes expression lines around the mouth, nose, eyes and eyebrows. A highly effective ingredient for restoring a youthful appearance to your face. It is an excellent alternative to botulinum toxin, helping to reduce wrinkle depth and soften expression lines for a smoother, fresher-looking face. This synthetic peptide is produced using biotechnology. It is not extracted from natural plants, but designed based on an amino acid sequence for maximum efficacy in cosmetics.

Its mechanism of action involves inhibiting the formation of the SNARE complex, which is essential for the release of acetylcholine, the neurotransmitter responsible for muscle contractions. This blocks signals from the nerves to the facial muscles, keeping them relaxed and preventing contractions, which smooths wrinkles. It has moisturising properties thanks to its ability to bind water, and soothes irritated skin. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 1-10 %, with studies showing optimal results at 3-5 %.

It is particularly recommended for mature skin with visible expression lines, and for dry and dehydrated skin, where it supports hydration and elasticity. It is also suitable for sensitive skin around the eyes and mouth, where it minimises expression lines without invasive treatment. Ideal for people seeking non-surgical ways to prevent skin ageing, including men and women aged 30 and over with the first signs of expression lines.

A clinical study involving 17 volunteers showed that applying a 10 % solution twice daily for 28 days led to a 63 % reduction in the depth of wrinkles around the eyes (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007). Further research confirmed that, at a concentration of 3 %, it reduces forehead wrinkles by 30 % in 30 days (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2013). These data confirm its high efficacy without the side effects typically associated with injections.

This is a laboratory-made lipopeptide consisting of three amino acids with an attached fatty palmitoyl group. This improves its affinity for the skin and makes it easier to incorporate into emulsions. The molecule is designed to mimic a signal associated with the natural activation of the growth factor TGF beta and support processes involved in dermal matrix formation.

SYN-COLL peptide stimulates signalling pathways associated with collagen synthesis and may also limit the activity of enzymes that break down collagen. The aim is to support skin firmness, smoothness and elasticity over time. It does not act as an instant filler or botulinum toxin. Visible results depend on regular use, a stable formulation and protection against UV radiation, which is one of the main causes of collagen degradation.

We recommend it for mature, sagging and dry skin, as well as for preventative care when the first fine lines appear. It is suitable for sensitive skin that cannot tolerate retinoids or strong acids. It can also be used on oily skin in a lightweight serum, as the peptide itself is neither a greasy nor a comedogenic emollient.

A scientific review of topical peptides reports that, in the available in vivo data, palmitoyl tripeptide-3 or 5 was approximately 3,5 times more effective than placebo at reducing the appearance of wrinkles and supported collagen synthesis in laboratory tests (Cosmetics, 2017). Some of the data comes from manufacturers, so the results of the finished product need to be verified separately.

The typical usage level of the supplier's solution is approximately 1 to 3 per cent, depending on its activity. The peptide is added during the cool-down phase and protected from extreme pH levels and prolonged heating. In a formulation, it works well alongside hydrating ingredients, antioxidants and daily SPF.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish the effects from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on whether the results are good and lasting.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate is a gentle emulsifying ingredient and cleansing agent often used in cosmetics and personal care products, particularly skincare. It is an ester of polyglycerol and capric acid, derived from fatty acids. Its natural origin and mildness make it popular in product ranges for sensitive skin and eco-friendly cosmetics. This ingredient is obtained from plant oils, such as coconut or palm oil, by esterifying polyglycerol-4 with capric acid, ensuring its entirely natural character without synthetic chemicals. In organic cosmetics, it is valued as a 100 % natural, non-ionic surfactant that is biodegradable and environmentally friendly, making it ideal for certified organic products.

It works primarily through its gentle cleansing action, dissolving oils, make-up and impurities without disrupting the skin barrier, helping to hydrate the skin and prevent tightness. As a non-ionic emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions in products, combining water and oils into uniform textures, typically at concentrations of 1-5 % in cleansers and 2-10 % in emulsions. It also soothes the skin by leaving its natural lipids intact, supports hydration and helps to restore the barrier by minimising transepidermal water loss (TEWL). These properties were confirmed in a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018), in which a concentration of 3 % Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate in micellar water reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of use in participants with sensitive skin, compared with a placebo.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, dehydrated and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin, where gentle cleansing without drying is essential. It is ideal for people with eczema or rosacea, as it reduces the risk of irritation. Avoid use only on extremely sensitive skin with open wounds.

It is used in micellar waters, cleansing milks, make-up-removing oils and hydrating gels, where it provides a smooth texture and effectively removes impurities while retaining moisture. Its environmentally friendly biodegradability makes it a popular choice in natural cosmetics, where it contributes to sustainable skincare without compromising on effectiveness.

Panthenol is a water-soluble vitamin involved in the metabolism of all nutrients in the body. Its name comes from Greek and means “found everywhere”. Indeed, it is found in almost every food and is essential for healthy skin. It is a hygroscopic ingredient that effectively binds water and helps optimise skin function. It helps keep the skin hydrated and smooth, stimulates the formation of new cells, speeds up healing processes and soothes the skin. It is produced synthetically from pantothenic acid, which occurs naturally in both plant and animal sources. Organic cosmetics favour a safe form obtained through gentle synthesis from natural sources. In the body, it is converted into active pantothenic acid, which supports regeneration and is essential for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Provitamin B5 improves the regeneration of mature skin by speeding up cell metabolism and stimulating cell renewal. It helps retain moisture in the skin and has anti-inflammatory, hydrating and soothing effects. It protects the skin against sunburn. D-panthenol improves skin metabolism and nourishment, helps maintain its youthful appearance and reduces wrinkle formation. It works by hydrating the skin as a humectant, binding water in the upper layers of the skin and preventing transepidermal water loss; restoring the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of sphingolipids and fatty acids; providing antioxidant protection against free radicals; soothing inflammation by modulating inflammatory pathways; and accelerating healing by promoting the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 % to 10 %.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, mature, acne-prone and irritated skin, including children's skin and skin after sun exposure. It is recommended for eczema, burns and insect bites, as well as after tattooing or shaving, where it relieves itching and redness and supports healing without the risk of irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2011) showed that a gel containing 5 % D-panthenol applied twice daily to dry, itchy skin significantly improved hydration by 20 % and reduced itching by 30 % after just 7 days compared with a placebo (Ebner et al., 2011). Another study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002) reported that 2 % panthenol in a cream strengthened the skin barrier, increased ceramide levels and reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks in individuals with atopic eczema (Proksch et al., 2002).

Origin and background

This botanical ingredient comes from a traditional Japanese plant grown in northern Japan, specifically in the Shirakami region, home to one of the planet's last primeval forests. The plant is endemic to this area and is cultivated using traditional ancestral methods, strictly following the principles of organic farming. The ingredient is extracted using biotechnological processes that preserve its biologically active components. This natural plant extract is rich in polyphenols and other antioxidant compounds that play an important role in skin regeneration and protection.

Function and mechanism of action

This ingredient acts primarily as a powerful antioxidant and protects against free radical damage. Its main mechanism is to inhibit oxidative processes caused by UV radiation and high-energy visible light (HEV), also known as blue light. Its high polyphenol content helps reduce the harmful effects of oxidative stress on skin cells and protects the dermis and epidermis from damage. It also reactivates and supports type I collagen synthesis in the dermis, improving skin elasticity and maintaining a youthful appearance. In this way, the ingredient repairs accumulated damage in the deeper layers of the skin that develops before becoming visible on the surface.

Recommended skin types

This ingredient is ideal for mature skin showing signs of photoageing, including pigmentation spots and uneven skin tone. It is recommended for dry and dehydrated skin in need of protection and regeneration. Thanks to its antioxidant and strengthening properties, it is also suitable for sensitive skin exposed to environmental stressors. It is not specifically intended for acne-prone skin, but its protective properties may benefit all skin types exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Scientific evidence of efficacy

In vivo clinical tests demonstrated significant results after 28 to 56 days of use. There was a marked reduction in the number of deep pigmentation spots, along with improved radiance and skin lightening. The tests also documented a significant improvement in skin tone evenness, an improvement in deeper signs of ageing and a marked increase in skin elasticity compared with a placebo. These results confirm the ingredient's effectiveness with long-term use and its ability to address both visible and invisible signs of photoageing.

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

Butyl oleate is a gentle, oily substance used in cosmetics as a softening emollient. It occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats, but in commercial cosmetics it is usually produced synthetically by esterifying oleic acid with butanol. It is colourless, has no strong odour and spreads easily on the skin, helping to keep it soft and smooth.

Butyl oleate works by significantly moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, forming a thin lipid film on the skin's surface that prevents water loss. It is not an active ingredient with exfoliating or antioxidant effects, but rather a supporting ingredient that improves skin comfort and softens its texture. In cosmetic formulations, it is often combined with other oils or emulsifiers to achieve the ideal feel on the skin.

Butyl oleate is particularly suitable for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin that needs extra nourishment and help locking in moisture. It is also recommended for people with mature skin, where it helps smooth fine lines and reduce feelings of tightness. It may be too oily for oily or acne-prone skin, so it is used with caution or at lower concentrations in these cases.

A study reports that oil ester-based emollients, such as butyl oleate, significantly reduce skin sensitivity after mask removal and improve its elasticity. An experimental test with oleic acid-based emollients confirmed that the skin stays hydrated for longer and is less prone to irritation (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019). Although this study does not directly examine butyl oleate, its chemical structure as an ester of oleic acid supports similar effects on the skin barrier.

Origin and key information:

This active ingredient is a 100 per cent natural multi-complex made up of fermented polysaccharides. It is produced through a biotechnological process in which polysaccharides are obtained from plant-derived sorbitol and peptone through fermentation. Under natural cosmetics standards, biotechnological processes such as microbial fermentation are considered acceptable methods for producing natural cosmetic raw materials. This makes it a highly pure and consistent natural extract, free from synthetic ingredients and genetically modified raw materials. Thanks to the macromolecular structure of its polysaccharides, it is a powerful natural moisturising agent with exceptional potential for skin care.

Function and mechanism of action:

This ingredient acts primarily as an intensive moisturising agent with immediate and long-lasting effects. Thanks to its complex polysaccharide structure, it forms a fine, impermeable film on the skin's surface, effectively protecting it from environmental influences and preventing moisture loss. It also actively restores the skin's natural moisture barrier. Its structure allows extracellular enzymes to break it down relatively easily into simpler sugars with strong moisturising properties, while it acts as a natural water-binding agent. The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing irritation and easing allergic reactions. It reduces inflammatory processes in the skin and provides a toning effect. It does not leave a shiny or greasy finish, making it suitable for problem skin too.

Clinical results and statistics:

Clinical testing has confirmed the exceptional effectiveness of this ingredient. One hour after application, skin hydration increases by 44 per cent. Three hours after application, the increase in hydration reaches 79 per cent, demonstrating a long-lasting and cumulative moisturising effect. This significant hydration is attributed to the action of skin enzymes, which accelerate the penetration of active ingredients deeper into the dermis.

Recommended skin types:

This ingredient is suitable for all skin types. It is particularly recommended for sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, where it provides intensive hydration and supports regeneration. Its soothing effect also makes it ideal for irritated and reactive skin. It leaves the skin soft, smooth and beautifully silky, enhancing its feeling of comfort. As it leaves no stickiness or greasy shine, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. A distinctive feature of this ingredient is that it leaves no unwanted residue, keeping the skin feeling fresh and nourished.

Certification and environmental value:

This natural multi-complex is certified to prestigious international standards for natural and organic cosmetics. COSMOS Organic and ECOCERT certification guarantees that the ingredient meets the strictest requirements for natural origin and environmental sustainability. Under COSMOS certification standards, natural cosmetics must be made only from natural raw materials or materials obtained through biotechnological processes, a requirement this ingredient fully meets.

Ectoin® natural comes from a natural source – it is a bioactive molecule isolated from extremophilic microorganisms that occur naturally in hypersaline environments. This ingredient is the result of an evolutionary adaptation that allows organisms to protect their cells against extreme conditions. Ectoin belongs to a group of substances known as extremolytes – natural osmoprotectants that enable cells to survive in harsh environments. Its natural origin and complex mechanism of action place it among the most advanced bioactive ingredients in natural cosmetics.

This ingredient works in several ways to restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Ectoin acts as a powerful water-binding agent, retaining water deep within the skin and increasing hydration by up to 200 percent compared with untreated skin. It also acts as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and protecting cells from damage caused by UV radiation, blue light and environmental pollution. Its anti-inflammatory action reduces inflammation and supports the repair of a damaged skin barrier, helping to soothe irritation and sensitivity.

Ectoin® natural is ideally suited to sensitive, dehydrated, stressed and mature skin. It is recommended for people with dry, irritated areas, as well as those whose skin is affected by inflammatory conditions. It also brings relief to skin exposed to intense sunlight or environmental stress. Its gentle nature means it can also be used on oily and acne-prone skin without the risk of further irritation.

Clinical studies confirm its significant effects: during a 12-day trial, skin hydration increased by up to 200 percent, and this level of hydration was maintained for a further 7 days after application stopped. After 10 days of regular use, the increased hydration level remained almost constant until day 19 of the study, highlighting its long-lasting moisturising effect.

This water-soluble polymer is made by modifying natural cellulose. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, stabiliser and gelling agent. It has no pronounced colour or scent and allows the creation of clear to slightly opalescent serums. It is a functional ingredient in the formula, not an active botanical ingredient with a direct rejuvenating effect.

Hydroxyethylcellulose increases the viscosity of the water phase, keeps insoluble particles evenly dispersed and makes the product easier to dispense. It forms a fine film on the skin, which can reduce the feeling of roughness and help distribute hydrating or exfoliating active ingredients evenly. On its own, it does not replenish ceramides or stimulate collagen. At the right concentration, it gives the product a smooth glide, but too much can cause stringiness, stickiness or pilling.

In finished products, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as it is a non-ionic and generally well-tolerated polymer. It is useful in acid-based serums, hydrating gels, cleansers and scalp products. Suitability for a particular skin type always depends on the active ingredients and the preservative system.

Researchers used hydroxyethylcellulose as the base for a dermal hydrogel to deliver khellin and assessed its permeation and acute toxicity. The gel provided a stable carrier medium and enabled controlled delivery through the skin (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021). The study demonstrates the polymer's role as a safe carrier, not a therapeutic effect of its own.

The typical concentration is approximately 0,1 to 1,5 per cent. The powder should be dispersed slowly in water and allowed to hydrate fully to prevent lumps. The manufacturer must monitor viscosity at the target pH and compatibility with electrolytes, surfactants and high levels of active ingredients.

For the user, its benefits are mainly apparent in how the product spreads, absorbs and stays on the skin. A good texture is not just an aesthetic quality: it helps active ingredients spread evenly and encourages regular use. When assessing a finished product, it is important to consider stability, pilling, stickiness and how it behaves when SPF or make-up is applied afterwards. Suitable packaging and a dispensing system are also important.

This is the sodium salt of a naturally occurring amino acid compound and an important component of the skin’s natural moisturising factor. It is manufactured using a clean, controlled process and used in cosmetics as a highly effective humectant. It is water-soluble and fits naturally into formulations that mimic the way a healthy outer skin layer retains moisture.

Sodium PCA attracts and retains water in the outer layer of the skin, helping to reduce roughness, flaking and tightness. It supports the suppleness of surface skin cells and improves comfort without leaving a greasy film. It is not an exfoliating acid, although the abbreviation PCA may sound technical. It works mainly as part of a moisturising system and combines well with amino acids, lactate, betaine, glycerine and hyaluronic acid.

It is particularly beneficial for dry, dehydrated, mature and sensitive skin. Its lightweight, water-based nature also makes it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin that needs to restore hydration without clogging pores. It is useful in products applied after cleansing, toners, serums, creams and treatments for dry hands or body.

A comparative study of moisturising ingredients on Asian skin showed that 1 per cent Sodium PCA increased hydration by more than 25 per cent compared with an untreated area and a placebo during the first three hours after application (Cosmetics and Toiletries, 2005). This result confirms its rapid humectant effect, rather than a long-term replacement for the lipid barrier.

Typical use levels range from around 0,2 to 5 per cent, depending on the product type. At high concentrations, it can increase stickiness, so it is combined with emollients and film-forming ingredients. It is generally very well tolerated, although the final feel depends on the formulation as a whole.

In your daily routine, it is worth assessing longer-term comfort and suppleness in particular, as well as whether your skin feels less tight during the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the whole formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, rather than simply a high concentration of one ingredient. Regular application in appropriate amounts is also important.

This sodium salt of hyaluronic acid is produced through biotechnological fermentation and then processed to achieve a low molecular weight. The smaller chains spread more easily within the surface layers of the skin and form a less noticeable sticky film. The ingredient is water-soluble and is used in concentrated hydrating and smoothing serums.

Supreme HyalRelift binds water, supports the suppleness of the stratum corneum and may visibly soften fine lines caused by dehydration. The low-molecular-weight form penetrates the epidermis better than very large chains, but it is not an injectable filler and does not create lasting volume. At high concentrations, it can feel sticky or increase tightness in dry climates, so it is combined with emollients and an occlusive layer.

We recommend it for dehydrated, dry, mature and oily skin. It is suitable for use under a light moisturiser and in after-sun products. For very sensitive or inflamed skin, a carefully formulated low dose should be used, as very small hyaluronate fragments may stimulate inflammatory signals under certain conditions.

A clinical study using 0,1 per cent formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights showed significant improvements in hydration and elasticity with all variants. After 60 days, the 50 and 130 kDa forms significantly reduced wrinkle depth compared with placebo (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2011). This finding supports the importance of low molecular weight for smoothing the skin.

The active concentration is usually around 0,05 to 0,2 per cent, depending on molecular weight and purity. The powder must be hydrated slowly in water without forming lumps. When combining several types of hyaluronate, stickiness, viscosity and microbiological stability need to be monitored.

In your daily routine, it is worth assessing longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight during the day. In dry climates, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the water it retains. The result therefore depends on the whole formula, consistent use and gentle cleansing, rather than on a single high concentration. Regular application in appropriate amounts is also important.

Description: This ingredient is a lightweight, plant-derived ester obtained from coconut oil and fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is used as a gentle, easily spreadable alternative to heavier silicones and rich oils. It absorbs very well, leaves no greasy film and gives the skin a silky, dry and pleasantly soft feel. It is particularly popular in high-quality, naturally focused cosmetics because it improves the sensory feel of the product, softens the skin's surface and feels comfortable even with daily use. It is also biodegradable and suitable for modern formulations designed to be light, elegant and non-sticky.

Function: It acts primarily as an emollient and softening ingredient, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss and support a smoother, more supple appearance. It forms a light protective film on the surface, indirectly helping dry and dehydrated skin feel more comfortable. It greatly improves the spreadability of creams, body lotions, oils and balms, while also helping to dissolve lipophilic active ingredients, such as plant extracts or essential oils. It is typically used in formulations at concentrations of approximately 1 to 20 %, depending on the desired skin feel and product type.

Recommendations: It is suitable for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin that needs softening without a heavy, greasy feel. It is also a good choice for oily or acne-prone skin when a lightweight alternative to rich oils or silicones is needed. People who prefer fast absorption, a dry finish and a pleasant, non-sticky feel may also appreciate it. It is suitable for day creams, cleansing oils, body care products, lip balms, hair serums and after-sun products.

Citations, specific figures and statistics: In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review safety assessment, this ester was tested in a human repeat insult patch test on 50 volunteers at a concentration of 100 %; no sensitisation or clinically significant skin irritation was observed. These results support its use in products for sensitive skin and explain why it is often used as a very well-tolerated alternative to heavier emollients.

Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide produced through fermentation by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans. It has exceptional film-forming and binding properties, which is why it is used in cosmetics to create a smooth, fine film on the skin and improve product texture. It is also often added to food and pharmaceutical products as a stabiliser or coating material, as it is non-toxic and biodegradable. This polysaccharide is obtained through an environmentally friendly biotechnological process, similar to the production of hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation. Its molecular structure consists of glucose units linked by alpha-1,4 and alpha-1,6 bonds, giving it high viscosity and elasticity. Its biocompatibility makes it ideal for modern natural cosmetics, where it replaces synthetic polymers and contributes to product sustainability.

Pullulan acts as an excellent humectant and film-forming agent, creating a protective film on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss and restore the skin barrier. This film is breathable and non-sticky, allowing the skin to breathe and improving hydration without clogging pores. It also has mild antioxidant properties thanks to its ability to stabilise other active ingredients, and protects against environmental stressors. It does not exfoliate, but soothes the skin with its gentle texture. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 0,5 to 2 per cent, with 1 % significantly improving the sensory properties of gels and serums.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it strengthens the barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss. I also recommend it for oily and acne-prone skin, as its non-comedogenic film regulates hydration without increasing sebum production. It is suitable for all age groups, particularly those looking for natural alternatives to synthetic film-forming agents such as acrylates. In anti-ageing products, it supports smoothness and elasticity.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) demonstrated that pullulan at a concentration of 1 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Further research in the International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2020) confirmed that pullulan improves the penetration of active ingredients by 35 % thanks to its film-forming properties (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2020). These data highlight its efficacy in clinical tests.

These are microscopic, needle-like structures obtained from the silica skeletons of freshwater or marine sponges, then hydrolysed and purified. In cosmetics, they act as a physical delivery system that temporarily lodges in the outermost layers of the skin during massage. Rather than a soluble active ingredient, this is a mechanical technology that increases contact with and penetration of other ingredients.

Spicules create very fine microchannels and support surface renewal. This can increase the penetration of hydrating, brightening or anti-acne ingredients. Application often causes a prickling sensation that can last for several hours. Greater intensity is not automatically better. An excessive dose, use alongside acids or retinoids, or application to skin with a compromised barrier can lead to redness, inflammation and increased sensitivity.

They are best suited to more resilient, oily, thickened or uneven skin, and to experienced users of intensive skincare. We do not recommend them for rosacea, eczema, actively inflamed acne, open wounds or immediately after aesthetic procedures. Those with sensitive skin should choose a very low intensity or avoid this technology.

In a study using spicules from the Haliclona sponge, penetration of the antimicrobial peptide tested into the skin increased to 40,9 plus or minus 5,9 per cent, which was 6,1 times higher than with the peptide alone (Pharmaceutics, 2024). The result demonstrates a strong delivery effect, but also highlights the need for very careful formulation.

The concentration depends on size, purity and the manufacturer's recommendations. The product is applied with gentle massage and should not be layered with other irritating active ingredients. Sun protection is essential after use. The manufacturer must verify microbiological purity, particle size and the tolerability of the finished product.

With technologically advanced delivery and stimulation systems, the quality of the finished product matters more than an impressive ingredient name. The effect depends on the dose, how the ingredient is incorporated, the packaging and stability throughout the product's shelf life. Those with sensitive skin should proceed cautiously and try a new product on its own. Manufacturers should base their claims on testing of the finished formulation, not solely on data from the raw material supplier.

Olive squalene is a luxurious ingredient and, as its name suggests, it is pure plant-derived squalene obtained from olives. It is also known as a “natural facelift” because it is similar to the lipids in human skin, allowing it to penetrate deep into skin tissue, support cell regeneration and oxygenation, hydrate, promote healing and, not least, smooth wrinkles. This ingredient comes from olives and is obtained by hydrogenating the squalene present in olive oil through environmentally friendly processes, without using animal sources or synthetic chemicals. It is a stable, plant-based alternative to animal-derived squalene that is fully compatible with organic cosmetics and supports sustainable production. Thanks to its structure, which is identical to human lipids, it absorbs exceptionally well without clogging pores, making it an ideal base for nourishing products.

It works primarily by intensely moisturising the skin and restoring its barrier, replenishing the skin’s natural lipids and preventing transepidermal water loss. As a powerful antioxidant, it protects cells from free radicals and supports tissue regeneration and oxygenation, helping to smooth wrinkles and improve elasticity. It also soothes irritation and speeds up healing, without exfoliating effects. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 5-20 %, with 10 % significantly increasing hydration without leaving a greasy film.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively combats loss of elasticity and wrinkles. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it is non-comedogenic and regulates the sebaceous glands without clogging pores. Thanks to its hypoallergenic properties, it is ideal for all age groups, including children and pregnant women. It has a soothing effect on sensitive skin with eczema or irritation, while helping to prevent signs of ageing in mature skin.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that olive squalene at a concentration of 10 % increased skin hydration by 45 % and improved skin barrier recovery by 30 % after 4 weeks of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that applying 5 % olive-derived squalene reduced lipid peroxidation in the skin by 25 % and improved elasticity by 20 % over 8 weeks, confirming its antioxidant and regenerative effects.

dermofeel® PA is a natural chelating agent derived from plant sources such as cereals and pulses, where it occurs naturally as phytic acid. It is an organic extract that serves as an environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternative to synthetic chelators such as EDTA. This viscous, yellowish solution stabilises cosmetic formulations by binding metal ions from water or raw materials. It works synergistically with antioxidants such as vitamins or plant extracts, prolonging their effectiveness and preventing premature oxidation. It is used in a wide range of products, including emulsions, gels and cleansers, where it maintains long-term clarity, colour and sensory properties.

Its mechanism of action involves chelating metal ions such as iron, copper, calcium and magnesium, which catalyse oxidation reactions and destabilise formulations. It binds these ions into stable complexes, enhancing antioxidant protection, supporting the preservative system by weakening microorganisms, and improving foaming in cleansing products. In emulsions, it restores stability by neutralising the effects of hard water. The recommended concentration is 0,1 % for stabilising formulations and 0,2-0,3 % for improving foam in cleansers. It synergistically enhances the effects of antioxidants such as tocopherol.

Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive and dehydrated skin, where it supports elasticity and provides hydration. It is recommended for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its pore-normalising and brightening effects. It is ideal for mature skin thanks to its antioxidant protection. Also suitable for haircare products used in hard water. Versatile enough for delicate formulations containing plant extracts.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,2 % reduced the oxidative degradation of vitamin C in an emulsion by 45 % after 12 weeks of storage at 40 °C. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021) confirmed that phytic acid at a concentration of 0,1 % chelated 98 % of copper and iron ions in a model cosmetic formulation, extending stability by 30 %.

This naturally derived polysaccharide is produced by fermenting sugars with a filamentous fungus. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting substance is separated, purified and dried into a fine powder. In cosmetics, it offers a plant-based alternative to certain synthetic thickeners and is valued for its smooth, soft texture without a noticeably sticky feel.

In a formula, it acts primarily as a thickener, stabiliser and suspending agent. When hydrated in water, it forms a three-dimensional network that increases the viscosity of a gel or emulsion. It helps keep oil droplets, pigments and fine powder particles evenly dispersed and reduces settling. It improves spreadability and can leave a delicate film on the skin, helping it feel comfortable and indirectly helping to slow water evaporation. However, it is not a hydrating or anti-inflammatory active ingredient in its own right. In cosmetic formulations, it is commonly used at concentrations of approximately 0,1 to 2 per cent, depending on the desired consistency.

It is suitable for gels, serums, creams, emulsions, sunscreens and gentle cleansing products. It works well in products for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps create a soft, protective texture. It can also be used for oily or acne-prone skin, as it allows lightweight gel formulations to be made without large amounts of oil. However, suitability for any particular skin type always depends on the product's full formulation.

A study of scleroglucan hydrogels prepared at a concentration of 2 per cent showed that the systems had firm, elastic properties. Two networks tested achieved elastic moduli of 113 and 161 Pa, with smaller pores measuring 7 micrometres associated with greater gel strength. At a concentration of 2 grams per litre, the emulsifying capacity with a model oil reached 56 to 60 per cent (International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2007). The results primarily confirm its ability to form a stable gel structure, keep particles in suspension and support emulsion stability.

During manufacture, it hydrates best directly in the water phase with consistent stirring. The powder should be added gradually to avoid lumps. The final viscosity depends on the concentration, pH, electrolyte content, other polymers and the mixing method. Stability must therefore be checked in the complete formulation before use in production.

Bisabolol is a natural, colourless, oily liquid extracted from the essential oil of German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita). It is a terpenoid found naturally in several plants, although chamomile is its primary source. Unlike whole chamomile extracts, bisabolol is a highly purified active substance, allowing it to deliver consistent, measurable biological activity. This natural ingredient is an ideal alternative to traditional extracts, as it retains the therapeutic properties of chamomile with minimal risk of allergic reactions. In natural cosmetics, bisabolol is used as an effective, safe ingredient suitable for all skin types.

Bisabolol acts on the skin in several ways. Its powerful anti-inflammatory properties inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators, such as leukotrienes and interleukin-1, reducing redness and irritation. As a natural antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals and slows photoageing. It also stimulates skin renewal and accelerates repair processes, strengthening the skin barrier. Bisabolol improves the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin thanks to its tenfold higher permeability compared with conventional ingredients. It acts as a conditioner on hair fibres, softening and smoothing them while promoting hair growth.

Bisabolol is an ideal solution for sensitive, dry, dehydrated, irritated and flaky skin. Its antimicrobial properties also make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, where it helps inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria. It is also recommended for mature skin showing signs of photoageing. As it is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin, it is suitable even for extremely sensitive skin types. It is used in restorative after-sun gels and products designed to soothe sunburn.

Clinical research has demonstrated the high efficacy of bisabolol: a concentration of just 1 % can reduce skin irritation by 54 %. Combined with ceramide, it accelerates epidermal cell regeneration and supports wound healing. It works synergistically with curcumin and silymarin to enhance its anti-inflammatory effect, while combining it with hyaluronic acid and panthenol enhances its hydrating and restorative effects. Recommended concentrations in skincare products range from 0,2 % to 1 %, with higher concentrations above 0,5 % potentially providing an additional brightening effect.

Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is an inorganic chemical compound produced synthetically through the electrolysis of sodium chloride. Today, it is manufactured using modern brine electrolysis, in which it is formed as a by-product of chlorine production. This strongly alkaline compound has the formula NaOH and consists of sodium ions and hydroxide anions, which are responsible for its pronounced alkaline properties.

In cosmetics, sodium hydroxide acts primarily as a pH regulator and buffering agent. Its main role is to neutralise excess acidity in products, ensuring that the finished product is balanced and safe for the skin. In chemical peels and exfoliating products, it helps break down the outer layers of the skin, allowing dead skin cells to be removed. Sodium hydroxide is also used in soap-making, where it combines with vegetable oils and fats to form the basis of bar soaps through a process called saponification. In cosmetics, it is used at very low concentrations – approximately 2 % in hair relaxers, 4,5 % in professional hair relaxers and up to pH 12,7 in hair removal products.

Sodium hydroxide is particularly recommended in products designed to care for sensitive and mature skin, where precise pH adjustment is important. It is found in shampoos, shower gels, creams, soaps and even hair removal products. People with very sensitive skin, eczema or a compromised skin barrier are advised to consult a dermatologist before use, as sodium hydroxide in its pure form is a highly corrosive substance that causes severe burns.

Most high-quality cosmetic products containing sodium hydroxide are formulated within a safe pH range of 4,5 to 5,5, which corresponds to the natural pH of human skin. These products are usually well tolerated by the skin, provided the concentration is appropriate and they are used correctly according to the instructions. In the event of a chemical burn, the affected area should be rinsed immediately with cold water and neutralised with diluted vinegar or citric acid.

100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.

It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.

A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.