Azelaic Acid [ 15% PAD ] - Booster

Cucumber juice comes from the fruit of the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus L.), which belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family. It is a natural botanical extract obtained by steam distillation of cucumber fruit, preserving all the valuable substances of the original plant. This ingredient is used in cosmetics for its high water content – up to 96 per cent – and its rich profile of active components, including vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Cucumber juice offers a gentle, natural way to deliver key nutrients directly to the skin's surface without harsh chemical processing.

Cucumber juice works in several ways. It primarily acts as a powerful moisturising agent thanks to its high water content and potassium, which help maintain skin hydration and elasticity. It contains vitamin C, which acts as an antioxidant and fights free radicals and UV damage. Vitamin K and silica support collagen and skin firmness, helping to restore the skin barrier. Caffeic acid and fisetin provide anti-inflammatory benefits that soothe irritated and inflamed skin. Mild astringent properties gently improve skin texture and minimise the appearance of enlarged pores without the adverse effects typical of traditional astringents.

Cucumber juice is ideal for all skin types, particularly dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin. Its gentle nature also makes it an excellent choice for acne-prone skin that is sensitive to harsh ingredients. Its antimicrobial properties and alkaline pH create an environment in which bacteria cannot survive, helping to control acne. This ingredient is particularly suitable for people experiencing inflammation, redness or sensitivity around the eyes, and for those looking for a refreshing, soothing ingredient.

Scientific research confirms the effectiveness of cucumber juice: a study showed that a 5% cream with cucumber extract significantly increased IL-10 and VEGF levels in the skin (with values of 715,75 ± 152,65 ng/L for VEGF), supporting tissue regeneration and reducing inflammation associated with xerosis. Further clinical trials in humans demonstrated the safety of formulations containing up to 1% cucumber juice, with no skin irritation or sensitisation. The appearance of redness and swelling was reduced thanks to the cooling properties of this natural ingredient.

This is a water-soluble derivative of a dicarboxylic acid, in which the active component is linked to the amino acid glycine and neutralised with potassium. It is produced through controlled synthesis to improve the solubility and tolerability of the original acid. The ingredient is suitable for lightweight water-based serums and emulsions, where the poorly soluble original molecule is more difficult to use.

Azeclair PAD helps regulate excess sebum production, supports a more even skin tone and also provides hydration. Its mechanism involves inhibiting the enzyme 5 alpha reductase, regulating pigment production processes and the presence of the glycine component. Compared with conventional azelaic acid, it tends to feel more comfortable on the skin and causes less stinging, although it is not exactly the same substance or a substitute for dermatological treatment.

We recommend it for oily, combination, acne-prone skin and skin with pigmentation, as well as sensitive skin that does not tolerate strong acids well. It is suitable for shine, enlarged pores, post-acne marks and uneven skin tone. In cases of active rosacea or an impaired skin barrier, a new product should be introduced gradually and without other irritating ingredients.

When a 3 per cent aqueous solution was applied twice daily for three weeks, skin lipid levels fell by 29,4 per cent on the forehead, 27,0 per cent on the nose and 31,5 per cent on the chin. Hydration increased by 12,7 per cent on the forehead and 8,2 per cent on the cheek (Cosmetics and Toiletries, 2002). The study was small, involving five volunteers.

In finished products, it is often used at approximately 3 to 10 per cent of the supplier's solution, depending on the active ingredient content. It is suitable for a pH of approximately 5 to 7. Even with good tolerability, the complete formulation must be tested for compatibility, stability and efficacy.

When using targeted skincare with active ingredients, it is best to start gradually and avoid changing several products at once during the first few weeks. This makes it easier to distinguish benefits from irritation. Visible changes in texture or tone usually require several weeks of regular use. Daily SPF protection, gentle cleansing and a well-functioning skin barrier have a significant influence on achieving good, lasting results.

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.