Centella asiatica (CICA): what it really does for your skin and when to use it

Centella asiatica, known in Asia as gotu kola and in Slovak as púpočník ázijský, is a plant with more than two millennia of documented medicinal use. In modern cosmetics, it is known by the abbreviation “CICA”.
It works on two fronts: it supports skin barrier repair (suppressing the inflammatory cascade and reducing transepidermal water loss) and stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis over the long term. The strongest clinical evidence relates to sensitive and reactive skin, rosacea and damage following procedures (laser, chemical peels, microneedling). In this article, you will learn which four active compounds do the work, how to distinguish “CICA” marketing from genuine centella in a formula, what concentrations make sense, and why Dulcia does not currently formulate with centella, despite our respect for it.

What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica (L.) Urban 1879, referred to in older literature as Hydrocotyle asiatica L., is a low-growing perennial herb in the Apiaceae (carrot) family. It has round to kidney-shaped leaves and a creeping stem. It grows in wet tropical and subtropical regions, particularly in South and Southeast Asia, Madagascar and Indochina. Its Slovak name is púpočník ázijský; in English, it is known as gotu kola or Indian pennywort.
In Ayurveda, it has been documented for more than 2,000 years under the name “mandukparni”, meaning “frog leaf”, a reference to its shape. In traditional Chinese medicine, it is known as “ji xue cao”. Its common name “tiger grass” comes from a legend that tigers rolled in centella to heal their wounds. The legend remains a legend, but modern literature has shown that its healing effect is not folklore (Gohil et al., Indian J Pharm Sci, 2010).
Centella entered modern cosmetics in the 1950s through French pharmaceutical processing of raw material from Madagascar. Bayer's “Madecassol” preparation (1947, standardised TECA extract at a concentration of 1%) is still used in dermatology as an adjunct treatment for scarring. This is also the origin of the marketing abbreviation “CICA”, derived from the Latin “cicatrization” (scarring).
In today's cosmetics industry, centella is available in several forms: whole-plant ethanol extract, aqueous extract, freeze-dried powder and a standardised triterpenoid fraction (TECA, a 40 : 30 : 30 ratio of asiaticoside : asiatic acid : madecassic acid, according to the pharmacopoeial specification for Madecassol).

Four active compounds and what they do

Centella's effectiveness comes not from a vaguely defined “whole extract”, but from four specific pentacyclic triterpenoids. Each compound has a different mechanism and clinical profile. A quality extract contains all four; in isolated form, madecassoside and asiaticoside are the ones most commonly found in cosmetics.

The molecular weight of asiaticoside is 958.9 g/mol and that of madecassoside is 974.9 g/mol. These are relatively large molecules with limited dermal penetration, so the choice of carrier (vehicle) is important when creating a stable cosmetic formulation.
In an in vitro study on human fibroblasts, asiaticoside at a concentration of 30 μg/ml stimulated collagen I synthesis by 55.7% compared with the control (Bonté et al., 1994). In the same assay, madecassoside increased collagen I by 22%; asiatic and madecassic acids increased it by 30% and 37%, respectively. Bonté 1994 remains the most frequently cited mechanistic basis for subsequent cosmetic claims about collagen stimulation and firmness.

How centella works on the skin

Centella works over two timeframes. In the short term (hours to days), it suppresses the inflammatory cascade. In the long term (weeks to months), it supports dermal remodelling.
In the short term, madecassoside inhibits the NF-κB signalling pathway and reduces local production of pro-inflammatory cytokines: TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-1β. In an experimental model of atopic dermatitis, topical 0.2% madecassoside reduced the clinical score (a SCORAD analogue) by 41% over 14 days (Arribas-López et al., Int J Environ Res Public Health, 2022, included in the review). In cosmetic practice, this translates into less redness, a reduced burning sensation and calmer, less reactive skin.
In the long term, asiaticoside stimulates fibroblasts and boosts collagen I and III synthesis. In a controlled split-face protocol (N = 20 women, 28 days, twice daily, o/w cream with 0.4% madecassoside and 0.1% asiaticoside), Ratz-Łyko and colleagues measured a 21.6% increase in stratum corneum hydration (corneometry, p < 0.01), an 11.2% reduction in transepidermal water loss (p < 0.05) and an 8.4% increase in firmness R0 (cutometry, p < 0.05) compared with placebo (Ratz-Łyko et al., Indian J Pharm Sci, 2016).
Over a longer period, Haftek and colleagues followed 20 women with photoaged forearm skin for 6 months. Topical application of 5% vitamin C combined with 0.1% madecassoside reduced TEWL by 18%, increased skin thickness by 6.2% (ultrasound measurement) and increased the density of elastic fibres in the dermis in histological samples (Haftek et al., Exp Dermatol, 2008).
Centella does not exfoliate the skin or act like a retinoid or acid. It cannot perform the role of retinol (cell turnover, keratinocyte differentiation) or BHA (loosening sebum plugs in pores). It belongs in the category of soothing and barrier-supporting ingredients. Used alongside retinol or BHA, however, it significantly reduces their potential to cause irritation.

Wound healing: where the evidence is strongest

Of all the cosmetic and pharmacological claims made for centella, wound healing has the strongest evidence. A systematic review by Arribas-López and colleagues included 24 studies (10 animal studies, 6 human clinical studies and 8 in vitro studies) and confirmed a consistent effect across models: centella extract accelerates re-epithelialisation, increases the strength of healing tissue and helps organise new collagen (Arribas-López et al., 2022).
In an experimental model, Somboonwong and colleagues compared four types of extract (aqueous, ethanol, ethyl acetate and methanol) on incision and burn wounds in rats. The 5% ethanol extract achieved the fastest healing: the tensile strength of the incision wound on day 14 was 125.7 N/cm² compared with 76.5 N/cm² in the control (p < 0.001). In the burn model, the time to complete epithelialisation fell from 21 days (control) to 12 days (5% ethanol extract). Histology confirmed increased fibroblast density and a more organised collagen network (Somboonwong et al., BMC Complement Altern Med, 2012).
In a more recent 2022 study, Sh. Ahmed and colleagues developed a hydrogel containing C. asiatica extract at concentrations of 1%, 2% and 5% and tested it in a rabbit wound model. The 5% hydrogel achieved 95.4% wound closure over 14 days compared with 68.1% in the control. Hydroxyproline content (a marker of collagen deposition) increased in a dose-dependent manner, while tissue levels of TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-1β fell significantly (p < 0.05) (Sh. Ahmed et al., BMC Complement Med Ther, 2022).
For cosmetic skincare, this means centella is a sensible choice after procedures (laser, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, microneedling) and for a compromised barrier. It is not a medicinal preparation and does not replace professional treatment of open wounds, but it is one of the best-documented botanical ingredients in post-procedure care.

The CICA trend: what it means and what it does not

In cosmetic marketing, “CICA” is an abbreviation with two meanings. In one sense, it means genuine centella in the formula: Centella Asiatica Extract or a purified compound (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid). In the other, “CICA” is a marketing label for a soothing cream based on panthenol, allantoin or beta-glucan, with no centella in it at all.
You will find the difference in the ingredients (INCI list), not on the label. If the INCI list does not contain at least one of the following entries, it is not a centella product, even if “CICA” appears in three places on the box:
Centella Asiatica Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Madecassoside
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Madecassic Acid
Hydrocotyle Asiatica (an older synonym, occasionally found on imports)
The abbreviation “CICA” originated with the French preparation Madecassol, which Bayer developed from Madagascan extract for post-operative scar care. The K-beauty wave from 2015 to 2020 simplified the abbreviation and expanded it to cover the entire “soothing cosmetics” category. In many cases, the original ingredient (centella) remained only on the label, not in the formula.
If you want centella, turn the box over and check the INCI list. If you cannot find it, you are buying panthenol or allantoin with an extra layer of marketing. That does not make it a bad product; it simply is not centella.

What concentration makes sense?

The effective concentration depends on the goal. The literature defines three practical ranges.
0.1 to 0.5% isolated madecassoside or asiaticoside: barrier repair and a mild anti-inflammatory effect. This was the range used in the Ratz-Łyko study (0.4% madecassoside + 0.1% asiaticoside, measurable improvement in TEWL, hydration and firmness over 28 days) and Haftek's 6-month study (0.1% madecassoside with vitamin C, reduced TEWL and increased elastic fibre density). In a daily routine, this is a realistic concentration for a soothing serum or cream.
1 to 5% whole extract or TECA: wound healing and post-procedure care. Somboonwong demonstrated a significant healing advantage with 5% ethanol extract; Sh. Ahmed confirmed a dose-dependent effect with 1–2–5% hydrogel. The pharmacopoeial reference preparation Madecassol uses 1% TECA. For post-procedure serums and “SOS” balms after laser treatment or peels, this range is clinically justified.
Above 5%: the evidence becomes inconsistent. Higher concentrations appear rarely in clinical literature and show no consistent additional benefit. SKIN1004 “Madagascar Centella 100 Ampoule” declares “100% centella aqua” as its vehicle, but this is not the same as 100% triterpenoids; it is an aqueous extract with an unspecified low concentration of active compounds.
The marketing range of 0.01 to 0.05%: below the functional threshold. Many “CICA” products list Centella Asiatica Extract in 15th to 20th place in the INCI list, which under EU INCI rules means a concentration below 1%, and most often below 0.1%. At this concentration, centella is more of a label claim than an active ingredient.
Practical advice: for a specific concern (rosacea, post-procedure soothing, post-acne marks), look for a product with a declared concentration of 0.2% or more madecassoside, or 1% or more whole extract. If the manufacturer does not state the concentration and centella is further down the INCI list, it is probably below the functional threshold.

Who can benefit from centella, and where are its limits?

Centella makes the clearest sense for sensitive and reactive skin, rosacea, post-procedure care (after laser treatment, chemical peels, microneedling or microdermabrasion), post-acne scars and marks, including associated pigmentation, and a compromised barrier following intensive exfoliation or retinol use.
Suitable uses:
Sensitive and reactive skin: madecassoside suppresses IL-4, IL-13 and NF-κB, inflammatory mediators central to chronic reactivity.
Rosacea: its anti-inflammatory profile aligns well with the causes and development of both erythematotelangiectatic and papulopustular rosacea; see the rosacea guide for more details.
Post-procedure soothing: after fractional laser treatment, chemical peels or microneedling. Centella at a concentration of 0.5 to 5%.
Post-acne scars and atrophic marks: TECA 1% has a documented role in dermatology (Madecassol) for both hypertrophic and atrophic scars.
Barrier repair after retinol or BHA: centella as a rescue layer for 2 to 4 weeks.
An addition to cleansing: after cleansing and toning, before a richer cream.

Limitations and when to take care:
Acute contact allergy: incidence is below 1%, but it does occur; symptoms include itching and papules in the hours following application. Stop using it immediately.
Open active lesions, bleeding wounds: a cosmetic extract is not a medicinal preparation; open wounds require professional treatment.
Oral forms of centella during pregnancy (capsules, tinctures): caution is traditionally advised due to a lack of studies and unknown systemic exposure. There is no regulatory restriction on topical cosmetic centella (EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009).

At Dulcia, we have not yet introduced centella: why, and when we might
At Dulcia, we have not included centella asiatica in our current range. Not because we doubt the clinical evidence. The study results are solid, and for a number of concerns (rosacea, post-procedure soothing, scars), centella is among the best-documented botanical ingredients. It is a formulation choice.
In our laboratory, we are developing a highly active and effective product containing 4% whole centella asiatica extract.
We use other botanical and functional ingredients to repair the skin barrier and soothe reactive skin: panthenol (provitamin B5) as a hydrating and barrier-supporting component, niacin to regulate microcirculation, bisabolol as an anti-inflammatory ingredient, Damask rose extract (Rosa damascena) and rosehip oil for their antioxidant profile. Our current botanical palette for barrier repair has its own internal balance. We have fine-tuned the concentrations, ratios and stability with a specific goal in mind. Adding centella simply because it is trending would mean a compromise: either we would have to reduce the concentration of something that works reliably for us, or we would add centella in a token amount, which would be clever marketing but functionally negligible.
If you are looking specifically for a centella product, it is only fair to say that you will not find one in our range at the moment. Our recommendation: look for a product with a declared concentration of at least 0.2% madecassoside or 1% whole extract, in dark or opaque packaging, from a brand that presents its INCI list clearly. K-beauty ranges (such as SKIN1004, Purito, Dr. Ceuracle) offer thoughtfully formulated, well-developed products in this category.
As with salicylic acid, transparency matters more to us than selling through an ingredient that does not currently fit our palette. If we formulate with centella in future, we will do so deliberately and at a full concentration, not as a “CICA” label.

How to include centella in your routine

Centella is an easy ingredient to fit into a regular routine. It does not compete with most other actives and complements several of them.
Morning and evening (AM + PM): centella is not photoactive, does not increase sensitivity to UV radiation and does not have the pH restrictions associated with BHA. Its ideal place in your routine is after cleansing and toning, before a richer cream and, in the morning, before SPF.
With retinol: a good pairing. Centella reduces retinoid irritation, especially during the first 4 to 8 weeks of gradually introducing retinol. As a general approach: apply retinol as usual; after 10 to 15 minutes, once it has absorbed, layer on a centella serum or cream.
With AHA and BHA: no conflict. In practice, it is often used as a repairing layer on a rest night (when you do not apply an exfoliant). On exfoliation nights, it can be applied as a final layer after AHA or BHA.
With vitamin C: no problems. They work together in a morning routine: vitamin C as an antioxidant and centella as an anti-inflammatory. The Haftek 2008 study used this combination.
With niacinamide: a classic barrier-supporting pairing. Both components are gentle, strengthen the barrier and complement each other.

What to expect over time. A noticeable soothing effect (less redness, a feeling that “my skin is calmer”) usually appears within 7 to 14 days. Measurable barrier parameters (TEWL, hydration) improve over 4 to 8 weeks. Structural improvements in the dermis (thickness, elasticity) are documented after 8 to 12 weeks or more. Centella is not an ingredient for a two-week course. Allow at least a month for the first noticeable results and three months for more comprehensive improvement.

What to avoid and what to look for when choosing
When choosing a centella product, check five things.
Check the INCI list. Look for at least one of the following: Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Hydrocotyle Asiatica. “CICA” on the label without any of these in the formula does not make it a centella product.
Check its position in the INCI list. Under EU rules, ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. If Centella Asiatica Extract is in 15th place or lower, its concentration is below 1%, and most often below 0.1%.
Check the packaging. Triterpenoids are sensitive to oxidation and light. A quality centella product comes in opaque or dark packaging, ideally with an airless pump.
Limit oral forms during pregnancy. Topical cosmetic centella has no regulatory restriction in the EU. Caution is traditionally advised with oral forms (capsules, tinctures), and clinical data are lacking; if in doubt, consult your obstetrician or gynaecologist.
Stop if itching or papules appear within hours. Contact allergy to centella is rare (below 1%), but it does occur. If you experience acute itching, burning or new papules after application, stop using the product.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between CICA and centella?
“CICA” is a marketing abbreviation derived from the French “cicatrization” (scarring); centella is a specific plant, namely Centella asiatica. A genuine centella product must contain Centella Asiatica Extract or one of its purified compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid or madecassic acid) in its INCI list. “CICA” products without these ingredients are soothing creams usually based on panthenol, allantoin or beta-glucan. They are not centella products, even if their marketing suggests otherwise.

Is centella safe during pregnancy?
Topical cosmetic centella has no regulatory restriction in the EU, and CosIng does not consider it a risk ingredient for pregnant women. Oral forms (capsules, tinctures, herbal teas containing centella) are traditionally not recommended because clinical data are lacking and systemic exposure during pregnancy has not been studied. If in doubt, and before taking it orally, consult your obstetrician or gynaecologist. Many pregnant women choose to avoid oral forms during pregnancy while continuing to use topical cosmetic products containing centella. This is a sensible, cautious choice.

Does centella help with rosacea?
Yes, and both the clinical and mechanistic evidence for rosacea are strong. Madecassoside suppresses the inflammatory cascade (TNF-α, NF-κB, IL-6) that is a central driver of rosacea, particularly the erythematotelangiectatic and papulopustular subtypes. In cosmetic skincare, centella is combined with azelaic acid, niacin and gentle soothing ingredients. You can find more detail in the rosacea guide, where we discuss the full range of ingredients recommended for rosacea.

Can I combine centella with retinol?
Yes, and it is one of the best pairings in modern skincare. Centella reduces retinoid irritation, especially during the first 4 to 8 weeks, when the skin is still adjusting to retinol. Recommended approach: apply retinol to clean, dry skin as usual; after 10 to 15 minutes, once it has absorbed, layer on a centella serum or cream. The result is the effect of retinol with less irritation.

How long does it take to see results?
A noticeable soothing effect, meaning reduced redness and a feeling of calmer skin, usually becomes apparent after 7 to 14 days of regular use. Measurable barrier improvements (TEWL, stratum corneum hydration) begin at around 4 to 8 weeks (Ratz-Łyko 2016). Structural improvements in the dermis (elasticity, skin thickness) are clinically documented after 8 to 12 weeks or more (Haftek 2008). Centella is not an ingredient for a one-week course. Allow a month for the first results and three months for structural changes.

What concentration of madecassoside is effective?
For barrier support and a mild anti-inflammatory effect, 0.1 to 0.5% madecassoside or asiaticoside is sufficient. For wound healing and post-procedure care, 1 to 5% whole centella extract or 1% standardised TECA fraction is used clinically. Concentrations below 0.05% are most often about marketing: centella is on the label, but below the functional threshold in the formula. For a specific concern, look for a product with a declared concentration.

Conclusion
Centella asiatica is one of the few botanical ingredients for which the clinical evidence keeps pace with the marketing. It has a documented anti-inflammatory effect at cytokine level (madecassoside suppresses TNF-α, IL-6, NF-κB), a documented effect on collagen I synthesis (asiaticoside +55.7% in vitro) and a solid clinical standing in wound healing (24 studies in the Arribas-López 2022 systematic review). It is not in Dulcia's current range, and we say that openly — not because we do not respect it, but because our botanical palette for barrier repair (panthenol, niacin, bisabolol, Rosa damascena, rosehip) already works within its own balance. If you are looking for a centella product, choose with your eyes open: INCI ingredients, position in the list, concentration, packaging. Your skin will appreciate an ingredient that is properly formulated and honestly declared, not the one with the best marketing abbreviation. Every box from us contains our thoughts, the work of our hands and our heart.

Sources
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