Calming Face Mask - Microbiome Balance

With its beautiful, intoxicating scent, this rose water of the highest quality is a completely natural product with wonderful beauty benefits. It is an extract of damask rose petals, obtained by distilling fresh flowers, and contains water-soluble volatile and aromatic compounds from roses. This hydrolate is rich in antioxidants, bioflavonoids and carotenes that penetrate the skin and support its health. Thanks to its strong antibacterial properties, it is made without preservatives, and is hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin. As well as being used in cosmetics, it is used in cooking to flavour desserts and drinks, and supports digestion when consumed in small amounts.

Rose water is an excellent toner that hydrates the skin, balances its pH, cleanses pores and stimulates regeneration. It has strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, disinfects, prevents inflammation and tightens pores. It soothes irritated skin, reduces redness and puffiness, and promotes healing in skin affected by acne, eczema or rosacea. As an antioxidant, it protects against free radicals, slows ageing, improves elasticity and helps prevent wrinkles. It is used at a concentration of 100 % as a toner or spray, with no need to dilute it, ideally morning and evening.

We recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for children, people with allergies, and after shaving, hair removal or sunburn. In summer, it refreshes the skin as a spray, sets make-up and removes blackheads. Suitable for anyone looking for natural, alcohol-free skincare.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2011) showed that Rosa damascena hydrolate at a concentration of 100 % significantly reduced inflammatory markers in patients with acne by 68 % after 60 days of daily application, thanks to its phenolic compounds and essential oils (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2011). Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2015) reports that the antioxidants in rose water improved skin hydration by 25 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in dry skin (Phytotherapy Research, 2015).

The oil is extracted from macadamia nuts and is very rich in high-quality fatty acids, particularly omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, oleic, linolenic, linoleic and palmitoleic acids. It contains vitamins A, E and B, phosphorus, calcium, iron and zinc. It is a powerful antioxidant that prevents damage to cell membranes. Its composition is very similar to the skin's natural oils, so it does not irritate the skin and is also suitable for very sensitive skin and children's skin. This plant oil comes from the nuts of the Macadamia ternifolia tree, which grows in Australia and Oceania, where it is cold-pressed to preserve its bioactive compounds. Thanks to its high stability, it is used in organic cosmetics as a pure extract without chemical additives, supporting the skin's natural protection against environmental factors.

It absorbs easily without leaving a greasy film on the skin. Its combination of unsaturated fatty acids and zinc makes it excellent for softening the skin and highly effective for ageing skin. It can help with the healing of skin conditions and burns and has regenerative properties. This precious oil also protects against the effects of harmful substances and UV radiation. It works by moisturising and restoring the skin's lipid barrier thanks to palmitoleic acid (up to 20-25 %), which mimics the skin's sebum. As an antioxidant, it neutralises free radicals through vitamin E and polyphenols, soothes irritation and supports cell regeneration. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 5-20 % for hydrating serums and creams.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, mature and acne-prone skin, where it strengthens the barrier without clogging pores. Its gentle texture also makes it suitable for children's skin and skin prone to eczema. At low concentrations, it regulates sebum production in oily skin. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) showed that macadamia oil at a concentration of 10 % increased skin hydration by 28 % after 4 weeks of application and improved elasticity by 15 % in women with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2018) confirmed that palmitoleic acid from the oil supports collagen synthesis and protects against UVB damage, reducing inflammatory markers by 22 %.

White clay is a rock composed of kaolinite minerals and quartz grains. It occurs naturally in rock formations, ranges in colour from white to brown and is rich in silicon. This mineral clay forms over long geological periods through the breakdown of feldspar rocks, particularly in areas with clay deposits such as China, Great Britain and the USA. In cosmetics, it is used as a natural extract obtained without chemical synthesis, through direct mining and purification of the deposits. Its fine texture and high aluminium oxide content make it ideal for gentle cosmetic applications, where it replaces harsher cleansing agents. Historically, it was used in traditional Chinese medicine for wound healing and detoxification.

White clay has strong absorbent properties that allow it to effectively bind excess sebum, impurities and toxins on the skin. It supports hydration by allowing moisturising ingredients to penetrate the skin more effectively once impurities have been absorbed. It restores the skin barrier by removing pore-clogging impurities, supporting the skin’s natural protective function. It gently exfoliates by breaking down dead skin cells without irritation, soothes inflammation and tightens pores by regulating sebaceous gland activity. A concentration of 10-20 % is recommended in face masks for optimal results without drying out the skin.

It is particularly recommended for oily, acne-prone and combination skin, where it regulates sebum production and helps prevent clogged pores. It is also suitable for sensitive and irritated skin thanks to its gentle, non-abrasive action. For dry skin, combine it with moisturising oils; for mature skin, add antioxidants such as vitamin E. It is not recommended for extremely dry or atopic skin without a patch test.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2018) showed that kaolin at a concentration of 15 % in masks reduced sebum production by 28 % and pore diameter by 22 % after 4 weeks of use in people with oily skin. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004) confirmed that kaolin absorbs 40 % more sebum than bentonite and reduces inflammatory markers by 35 %.

This is a natural emollient derived from sugar beet and coconut. It is of 100% natural origin and is 100% biodegradable. It gives the skin a luxurious feel, softens it and prevents moisture loss. It gives products a lightweight, non-greasy feel. It helps disperse mineral UV filters, helping to reduce the white cast on the skin and making sunscreen easier to spread. This ingredient is produced by esterifying isoamyl alcohol from sugar beet with fatty acids from coconut oil, ensuring high purity and environmental friendliness. Thanks to its plant origin, it meets strict natural cosmetics criteria and is an ideal choice for environmentally focused products.

It works primarily by moisturising and restoring the skin barrier, strengthening the skin’s lipid layer and preventing transepidermal water loss. It also acts as an emollient, softening the skin’s surface and providing a dry, non-greasy finish. It is also used to disperse mineral UV filters, improving their distribution and reducing the visible white cast. The recommended concentration in cosmetic formulations is 1-10 %, depending on the desired viscosity and type of emulsion, with lower concentrations (1-3 %) sufficient for lightweight creams and higher concentrations (5-10 %) for sunscreens.

It is particularly recommended for dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin, where it effectively prevents moisture loss and provides comfort without feeling heavy. Its non-greasy feel also makes it suitable for oily and combination skin, as well as for all skin types in sunscreen products. It is ideal for mature skin, where it supports barrier function and softens wrinkles, and for athletes or people with an active lifestyle who need water-repellent yet breathable formulations.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that Isoamyl Laurate at a concentration of 5 % in emulsions with mineral UV filters reduced the visibility of the white cast by 68 % and improved spreadability by 45 % compared with standard emulsifiers. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2020) reports that this emollient increases skin hydration by 25 % at 4 hours after application compared with synthetic alternatives, confirming its effectiveness in restoring the lipid barrier.

This Ecocert-certified olive emulsifier is a 100 % organic, non-ionic, PEG-free plant-based emulsifier made from olive oil. An emulsifier is an agent that allows two or more liquids that do not normally mix, such as water and oil, to form an emulsion by reducing surface tension. It has excellent moisturising properties and helps soften the skin. It reduces moisture loss and is hypoallergenic. It is obtained from olive oil through the esterification of fatty acids, sorbitol and cetearyl alcohol. Sorbitol belongs to a group of sugar alcohols that occur naturally in fruit and vegetables (apples, pears, cherries, grapes...). It is a natural sweetener. Cetearyl alcohol is an emulsifier of 100 % plant origin that creates creamy, softening textures without a greasy film, leaving a pleasant feel on the skin. This emulsifier comes exclusively from plant sources, specifically olive oil, contains no synthetic additives and meets strict standards for organic extracts. The production process involves physical and biotechnological methods, such as esterification, that preserve the natural nutritional value and beneficial compounds.

It works by forming stable emulsions, reducing the surface tension between water and oil to create uniform creams and lotions. Its olive fatty acid content provides intensive moisture, restores the skin's lipid barrier by mimicking its natural structure and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Polyphenols from olive oil give it antioxidant properties, while it soothes irritated skin and gently softens it without leaving a greasy film. The recommended concentration in formulations is 2-6 % for optimal emulsification and hydration.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it effectively restores the barrier and retains moisture. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its non-comedogenic composition and light texture, which does not clog pores. Ideal for all skin types looking for natural, hypoallergenic emulsifiers in organic cosmetics.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that olive ester-based emulsifiers at a concentration of 4 % reduced TEWL by 28 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin and improved hydration by 35 % (compared with the control). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate at a concentration of 3-5 % increase skin elasticity by 22 % and support skin barrier repair in individuals with atopic dermatitis.

Dulcia natural uses a high-quality olive emulsifier that meets the most stringent COSMOS certification. A prestigious international certification for natural and organic cosmetics.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

A blend made with patented colloidal oat flour and a highly specialised, stable strain of Lactobacillus, developed by German fermentation experts using state-of-the-art technology. A range of natural fermented oat actives improves skin health and accelerates cell turnover. It helps the microbiome recover and thrive. It improves the thickness and firmness of the epidermis and reduces skin roughness. It contains natural exfoliating AHA acids that support cell renewal to reveal radiant skin. Our skin cannot break down large molecules, which makes the fermentation process particularly beneficial. Fermentation increases the bioavailability of protective and repairing molecules, allowing them to penetrate the stratum corneum. This process takes place anaerobically in an environment with low oxygen levels and a low pH, where microorganisms convert organic compounds into smaller, more easily absorbed molecules, such as antioxidants, peptides, amino acids and lactic acid.

This ingredient has multiple benefits: it hydrates the skin with humectants that attract and retain moisture, restores the skin barrier by strengthening the epidermis and improving its thickness, acts as a powerful antioxidant by fighting free radicals, exfoliates with natural AHA acids that support cell renewal, and soothes irritation by accelerating healing and helping the microbiome thrive. Fermentation increases the bioavailability of these substances, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the stratum corneum, making them more effective than non-fermented extracts. The recommended concentration in formulations is 1-5 % for optimal results without irritation.

Ideal for dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, where it restores the barrier and hydration, as well as for oily and acne-prone skin thanks to its soothing and exfoliating properties, which regulate the microbiome and reduce roughness. I recommend it to anyone looking for natural support for skin regeneration, especially after intensive peels or when the skin barrier is weakened, as it minimises irritation and increases resilience to environmental stressors.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) showed that applying fermented oat extract at a concentration of 2 % increased filaggrin gene expression by 25 % and ceramides by 30 % after 14 days, significantly strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss by 22 % in subjects with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2020) reports that Lactobacillus ferment combined with oat polysaccharides reduced inflammatory markers (IL-6) by 40 % in vitro, helping the microbiome thrive.

Tasmanian pepper, also known as Australian mountain pepper (Tasmannia lanceolata), comes from an evergreen shrub that grows in the tropical rainforests of Tasmania and eastern Australia. This natural resource was traditionally used by Indigenous peoples for skin care. The ingredient is extracted from the leaves and berries of the plant using a combination of glycerine and water to preserve its active compounds. The shrubs reach heights of up to 5 metres and are distinguished by their characteristic dark red branches and deep green leaves, which are rich in bioactive compounds.

Function

Tasmanian pepper acts as a powerful natural soothing and anti-inflammatory agent. It works by inhibiting inflammatory mediators and reducing skin reactivity. The extract reduces measured inflammatory markers and regulates the skin's immune responses. It immediately relieves the itching and burning sensations typical of sensitive skin. Its antioxidant properties also protect the skin against free radicals and support skin barrier repair. The extract also soothes redness and helps restore compromised skin integrity.

Recommendations

Tasmanian pepper is particularly suitable for dry, sensitive, reactive and irritated skin. We recommend it for people with rosacea, atopic eczema, or skin prone to redness and itching. It is also an excellent ingredient for products formulated for sensitive and allergy-prone skin. It is suitable for mature skin showing signs of irritation and for skin weakened by external factors.

References and scientific evidence

A 2022 study published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences confirmed that natural anti-inflammatory extracts with a similar composition reduce inflammatory cytokine levels and markers of inflammation in people with sensitive skin. Research published in Biochemistry and Cell Biology in 2020 showed that plant extracts with antibacterial properties support skin barrier repair and the skin's natural immunity. Niacinamide, often combined with similar extracts at concentrations of 4 to 5 per cent, reduces redness and irritation by a measurable percentage over 6 to 8 weeks of use.

This plant-based emulsifier helps create smooth emulsions from oils and water. In cosmetics and in this ingredient, the word alcohol refers to something different from the alcohol found in drinks, so the two should not be confused. It is a fatty alcohol derived from plant fats and oils; ours comes from coconut oil. Fatty alcohols play a very similar role to fatty acids, particularly omega-3 fatty acids. It has excellent moisturising, softening and hydrating properties. It forms a protective film on the skin that prevents water loss and keeps the skin from drying out too quickly. This fatty alcohol is obtained from coconut oil through natural extraction, making it ideal for natural cosmetics. It is a white, waxy solid fat with a mild scent that melts at around 49 degrees Celsius, making it easy to work with in formulations. Thanks to its stability and compatibility with various emulsifiers, it improves the texture of creams, gels and lotions, contributing to a luxurious feel on the skin. Its plant origin ensures high purity without impurities from petrochemical sources, which is valued by manufacturers of organic cosmetics.

Cetyl alcohol works primarily by moisturising and restoring the skin barrier. As an emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions, preventing the oil and water phases from separating, while also forming an occlusive protective film on the skin's surface that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This film protects against dryness caused by external factors such as wind and cold. It also has softening effects that improve skin elasticity, and mild antioxidant properties thanks to its similarity to omega-3 fatty acids, which support hydration and anti-inflammatory processes. In cosmetic formulations, it is used at concentrations of 1-5 %, where it significantly increases the viscosity and creaminess of products without leaving a greasy feel.

We recommend cetyl alcohol for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it helps combat moisture loss and supports barrier repair. It is also suitable for oily skin at low concentrations, as it does not clog pores and improves texture without adding shine. It is ideal for atopic or eczema-prone skin, where it soothes irritation and protects against dryness. In haircare, it is valued for restoring smoothness to dry, brittle hair.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004) showed that cetyl alcohol at concentrations of 2-4 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin, significantly improving hydration and elasticity. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2012) confirmed that, in combination with emulsifiers, it increases emulsion stability and supports lipid barrier repair by 30 % in people with impaired skin function.

Evening primrose oil has genuine healing properties. It contains valuable essential fatty acids that our bodies cannot do without, particularly gamma-linolenic acid. If this acid is missing from our diet, the body cannot produce it on its own, which immediately affects the condition of our skin. Evening primrose oil helps relieve discomfort such as itchy or burning skin, making it a suitable addition to eczema treatment. The seed oil from this small yellow flower also helps ward off signs of skin ageing, particularly wrinkles and age spots. It is a real treasure for dry and sensitive skin, as it prevents further drying. This oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of the evening primrose plant, known for its small yellow flowers. It is a natural plant extract, also available in organic quality, with no synthetic additives, ensuring that its valuable nutrients are preserved.

Evening primrose oil primarily provides intensive hydration and restores the skin barrier thanks to its high content of essential fatty acids, particularly gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which makes up 8-10 % of its total composition. These acids support ceramide synthesis, strengthening the skin’s natural protective barrier and preventing moisture loss. The oil acts as a powerful antioxidant, neutralising free radicals and slowing skin ageing. Its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects relieve itching and redness. At concentrations of 5-20 % in cosmetic formulations, it effectively regenerates dry skin and supports eczema healing without exfoliating properties.

We particularly recommend evening primrose oil for dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, where it helps prevent dryness and wrinkles. It is ideal for skin with atopic dermatitis, eczema or psoriasis, where it soothes irritation. It is also suitable for oily, acne-prone skin that is susceptible to inflammation, as it regulates sebum production without clogging pores. For pregnant women, it helps prevent stretch marks by improving skin elasticity. Avoid use on acute open wounds.

A study published in the Journal of Lipid Research (1996) showed that oral intake of oil containing 8 % GLA significantly increased plasma gamma-linolenic acid levels by 40 % after 8 weeks, correlating with a clinical improvement in skin dryness and reduced itching in patients with eczema. Another study in the British Journal of Dermatology (2005) reports that topical application of evening primrose oil at a concentration of 10 % reduced inflammatory markers (IL-6) by 25 % in individuals with atopic dermatitis after 12 weeks, confirming its anti-inflammatory effect.

It is green in colour, contains many important nutrients and is excellent both for skin care and for consumption. It contains high levels of essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic and linolenic acid. It also contains vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C and E, phytosterols, chlorophyll and lecithin. Hemp oil has powerful antioxidant properties and helps combat premature skin ageing. It is obtained by pressing the seeds of the Cannabis sativa plant, ideally cold-pressed to preserve its nutrients, and is available in organic, THC-free form.

Hemp oil intensely moisturises the skin thanks to its high content of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which restore the lipid barrier and maintain hydration without leaving a greasy film. It has anti-inflammatory properties, soothes irritation and supports regeneration, including wound healing and increased collagen production. Its antioxidant properties protect against free radicals and premature ageing, while its antimicrobial effects combat bacteria, fungi and viruses. It contains ceramides and GLA, which increase serum levels of essential fatty acids.

It is suitable for all skin types, especially very dry, hypersensitive, sensitive children's skin, dehydrated, oily, acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for skin conditions such as atopic eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, fungal infections, seborrhoea and skin irritation caused by trapped moisture. It regulates sebum production, helps prevent clogged pores and reduces redness, making it ideal for acne-prone skin without the risk of clogging pores (comedogenic rating 0).

Clinical studies confirm the effectiveness of essential fatty acids from hemp oil in chronic inflammatory skin conditions. For example, applying hemp oil with GLA (1-4 %) significantly improved hydration and reduced inflammation in patients with atopic eczema after 20 weeks (Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2005). Another study showed that topical application of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids (including ALA 18-20 %) reduced itching and dryness by 60 % in patients with psoriasis (British Journal of Dermatology, 2014).

Oat silk has a remarkable ability to make skin glow. It absorbs excess sebum from the skin. It contains a wealth of antioxidants and beta-glucan, which help support skin cell renewal and the skin’s own collagen production. Avenanthramides – powerful natural antioxidants found exclusively in oat grains – can soothe hypersensitive skin and reduce redness. This ingredient comes from oat kernels (Avena sativa), which are finely milled into flour and processed into a silky powder. It is a natural plant extract, certified for use in organic cosmetics and free from synthetic additives, ensuring purity and sustainability.

Dulcia natural uses high-quality oat silk that meets the strictest Ecocert and COSMOS. The world’s most prestigious certifications for natural and organic cosmetics.

Oat silk works by moisturising the skin through beta-glucan, which binds water and restores the skin barrier. Its avenanthramides provide powerful antioxidant protection against free radicals, soothe irritation and gently exfoliate by removing excess sebum without drying out the skin. The recommended concentration in formulations is 1-5 % for optimal results.

We particularly recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as dehydrated or mature skin. It absorbs sebum without disrupting the skin barrier, soothes redness in sensitive skin and supports hydration in dry or mature skin. Suitable for all skin types that need gentle cleansing and protection.

A study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2015) showed that oat avenanthramides at a concentration of 0,03 % reduced itching by 50 % in patients with atopic dermatitis after 4 days of application. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2007) showed that oat beta-glucan increases skin hydration by 20 % and supports ceramide production in the skin barrier after 3 weeks of use.

1. ECOCERT Natural
2. Fragrance Free
3. Eco Friendly
4. Paraben Free
5. Alcohol Free
6. Not Tested on Animals
7. Biodegradable
8. GMO Free
9. China INCI Compliance
10. Free from Allergens

Acticire® MB is a 100% natural texturising agent made from a complex of three functionalised waxes of natural origin. The ingredient combines jojoba wax, sunflower seed wax and mimosa flower wax. Each of these waxes comes from plant sources and is obtained using gentle methods without synthetic solvents. Jojoba wax has a long history in natural cosmetics, sunflower wax provides stability, and mimosa wax contributes softness and smoothness. Together, they create a synergistic effect that enhances the quality of cosmetic formulations. Polyglycerin-3 in the formula acts as a natural stabiliser without unwanted side effects.

Function

Acticire® MB primarily acts as an intensive moisturising complex through the following mechanisms: the waxes form a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent water loss and support hydration in the deeper layers of the epidermis. The complex wax system restores and strengthens the skin's natural lipid barrier, which is often disrupted by external factors. Thanks to its ability to penetrate the skin, the ingredient improves the penetration of other active ingredients in the formula. It keeps skin feeling soft and supple throughout the day, providing lasting comfort and smoothness. Research confirmed that combining plant waxes with iron increases skin elasticity by 23% after four weeks of application (Cosmetic Technology, 2022).

Recommendations

Acticire® MB is ideal for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin. The ingredient is suitable for people with problem-prone and atopic skin, as it contains no irritants. Its gentle nature also makes it suitable for babies' and children's skin. People with sensitive and reactive skin will appreciate its soothing and protective properties. It is suitable as an additional ingredient in night creams, nourishing oils and serums for intensive care.

Certification

Acticire® MB meets the strict COSMOS certification standards, which guarantee the natural and organic origin of raw materials. COSMOS certification confirms that the ingredient comes from controlled organic farming or controlled wild harvesting, and that the entire production process follows sustainability principles without harming the environment (Soil Association Certification Limited and other recognised organisations).

Niacin, or vitamin B3, belongs to the B vitamin complex. Vitamin B3 is a collective term for nicotinic acid and niacin. It occurs naturally in foods such as meat, fish, nuts and wholegrain products, but cosmetics use a synthetic form or organic extracts from yeast and plants. This water-soluble vitamin is essential for cellular metabolism and the synthesis of the coenzyme NAD, which supports energy processes in skin cells. In cosmetic products, it is added in the stable form of niacinamide, which is readily absorbed into the skin without causing irritation.

It protects the skin and improves its health. It plays a role in cellular metabolism, helping enzymatic processes function properly. Its mechanism of action includes moisturising the skin by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and free fatty acids, thereby restoring the skin barrier. It has powerful antioxidant properties that neutralise free radicals and protect against oxidative stress. It soothes inflammation by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and promotes exfoliation by regulating keratinisation. Recommended concentrations are 2-5 % for hydration and barrier repair, and up to 10 % for pigmentation and acne.

Niacin helps the skin retain water, improves the condition of sensitive skin (including skin with rosacea) and strengthens its defences. It is also excellent for supporting acne treatment, both topically and orally. It is useful even for severe forms of acne. It improves the appearance of ageing skin and brightens the complexion, making it suitable for reducing pigmentation and age spots. It plumps and hydrates the skin and prevents water loss. Its benefits extend well beyond our skin and hair. I recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for rosacea, eczema, hyperpigmentation and anti-ageing care, as it strengthens the barrier without clogging pores.

This vitamin is important for the proper functioning of the whole body, and a deficiency can cause fatigue, digestive problems, mental illness and depression, for example. A clinical study showed that niacinamide at a concentration of 4 % reduced hyperpigmentation by 35-68 % after 4-8 weeks in patients with melasma (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004). Further research confirmed that 4 % niacinamide reduced acne lesions by 52 %, while 2 % niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation by 44 % after 8 weeks (International Journal of Dermatology, 2002). High-dose oral supplementation (1 g daily) reduced acne symptoms by 50 % after 8 weeks (Botanic.sk study).

Shea butter is a plant-based fat with a fairly thick, semi-firm consistency. It is obtained from the nuts of the shea tree, also known as karité. This tree grows in sub-Saharan Africa, particularly in the western part of the continent, where the nuts are gathered by hand by women in traditional communities. Cultivation and processing play a very important role in its quality, ensuring that all its valuable properties are preserved. The organic version comes from certified organic plantations without pesticides and is processed by cold pressing or traditional grinding, preserving its natural scent and colour. It contains a high proportion of vitamins A, E and F. It also contains valuable natural healing waxes, rare plant sterols, karitenes and unsaturated fatty acids, such as stearic, oleic and linoleic acid. Its composition closely resembles the skin's protective film, making it particularly effective and suitable even for sensitive skin and children's skin. In its organic form, it contains no chemical additives and is not refined, which increases its bioavailability.

It works by intensely moisturising the skin and restoring the skin barrier, thanks to its high content of fatty acids that mimic the skin's lipids. As a powerful antioxidant, it protects against free radicals through vitamins A and E. It has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, supports wound healing and stimulates collagen production, restoring elasticity. At a concentration of 5-20 % in creams, it significantly improves hydration and reduces dryness. Shea butter conditions, moisturises and rejuvenates the skin. It nourishes the skin, supports collagen production and restores skin elasticity. It stimulates cellular activity in the skin, helping to prevent wrinkles, uneven skin texture, dark spots, enlarged pores and other concerns associated with skin ageing. It protects the skin from sunlight, helps wounds heal and has anti-inflammatory properties. It helps treat dry skin and psoriasis, while its antibacterial properties also make it a suitable addition to creams for acne-prone and blemish-prone skin.

Recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, as well as children with atopic skin. Also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin at low concentrations, where it regulates sebum and fights bacteria without clogging pores. Ideal for eczema, psoriasis or burns, where it soothes irritation.

A study published in the Journal of Oleo Science (2010) showed that shea butter at a concentration of 10 % increased skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in people with dry skin. Further research in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2018) reports that triterpene esters from shea butter inhibit inflammatory mediators by 40 % in vitro, supporting the healing of acne. A clinical study involving 20 volunteers showed that daily application of 15 % shea butter reduced transepidermal water loss by 32 % over 28 days (Skin Research and Technology, 2015).

First of all, we would like to explain that cosmetic products do need preservatives to prevent microbial growth, product spoilage and potential skin infections that may have long-term adverse effects on your skin. Protecting the product from spoilage, and therefore protecting you, is extremely important. It is equally important to us that the preservative system is mild and gentle and has absolutely no negative impact on your health. Our packaging also plays a significant role in gentle preservation, allowing us to use the lowest concentration of the preservative blend. This blend consists of organic acids and benzyl alcohol obtained through natural processes without synthetic chemicals, in accordance with strict organic farming and certification standards. The components originate from plant sources or microbial processes: dehydroacetic acid is produced through glucose fermentation, benzoic and sorbic acids are isolated from berries or strawberries, and benzyl alcohol from plant essential oils such as ylang-ylang or jasmine. These organic extracts are certified as natural and organic, free from GMOs and pesticides.

The organic preservative blend works by acidifying its environment, lowering the pH to 4-5,5, a level that inhibits the growth of bacteria, yeasts and moulds. The synergistic effect of the blend ensures broad-spectrum protection: dehydroacetic acid inhibits fungal enzymes, benzoic and sorbic acids penetrate the cell membranes of microorganisms and disrupt their metabolism, while benzyl alcohol disrupts cell walls. The typical concentration is 0,2-1 %, depending on the formulation, which minimises the potential for irritation when used with airless packaging. This system contains no parabens, formaldehyde releasers or isothiazolinones, protecting the integrity of natural ingredients without compromising stability.

We recommend this blend for all skin types – dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated or mature – particularly in organic cosmetics for families with children and people with allergies. It is ideal for those looking for a gentle alternative to synthetic preservatives, without the risk of sensitisation at low concentrations. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) confirms that a blend of dehydroacetic acid (0,5 %), benzoic acid (0,3 %) and benzyl alcohol (0,2 %) achieved a 99,9 % reduction in Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans in emulsions at pH 5,5 without affecting the product's rheology (Darr et al., 2014). Further research in the Journal of Applied Microbiology (2009) showed that sorbic acid used in combination (0,1 %) produced a 4 log reduction in Aspergillus niger within 7 days.

Dulcia natural uses a natural, environmentally friendly system to protect cosmetic products that complies with Ecocert and COSMOS standards. It has been developed to reduce the risk of bacterial contamination. It is designed to provide broad-spectrum protection using optimised, innovative synergistic blends, with environmental responsibility and sustainable development in mind. It is an organically certified formulation designed to protect products and people. All components are included on the lists of preservatives approved for natural and organic cosmetics by the world's most prestigious certification bodies.

It is produced by fermenting renewable sugar and oil feedstocks using microorganisms. This biotechnological process creates surface-active molecules with a sugar and a lipid component. The result is a concentrated, biodegradable ingredient intended primarily for gentle rinse-off products.

Its main function is cleansing. Glycolipid molecules lower the surface tension of water, surround sebum, impurities and make-up residue, and allow them to be rinsed away. The acidic form of sophorolipids provides good cleansing performance without having to rely solely on sulphate surfactants in the formula. Sodium lactate supports the blend's aqueous environment, helps regulate pH and has moisturising properties. The precise concentration depends on the overall surfactant system. The supplier assessed eye tolerability at 1,5 per cent active matter and states that foaming and texture can be adjusted by combining it with other suitable ingredients.

The ingredient is suitable for cleansing gels, foams, shampoos, scalp care products and gentle make-up removers. It can be recommended for sensitive, reactive, dry and dehydrated skin that does not tolerate harsh stripping of its natural oils. It is also useful for normal, oily or acne-prone skin, as effective cleansing need not leave skin feeling stripped after rinsing. However, it is neither a standalone acne treatment nor an active ingredient intended to be left on the skin for extended periods.

A study of the acidic form of sophorolipids compared cytotoxicity and skin irritation with substances used in personal care. The authors measured a logIC50 of 4,76 mg per litre and found very low irritation potential in a reconstructed human epidermis test according to OECD TG439 (Journal of Oleo Science, 2024). This finding supports the mildness of this group of biosurfactants, although it is not a clinical trial of the specific commercial blend.

The manufacturer describes SOPHANCE LA-A as an acidic sophorolipid with high cleansing performance, good rinsability and suitability for sensitive skin (Evonik). When formulating, the final pH, compatibility with the preservative system, foaming and total active surfactant content must be checked. The actual mildness always depends on the complete product, not just one ingredient.

Polyfructose extracted from chicory root (Cichorium Intybus) and enzymatically purified to a chain length of more than 10 fructose units. In addition to restoring the skin microbiome, it provides cells with the energy they need for their metabolism and functions. A new, scientifically tested skin prebiotic. A prebiotic is essentially a selective nutritional supplement for our protective, beneficial skin microbiota. Harmful microorganisms cannot metabolise the prebiotic. This strengthens and balances the skin's natural microbiota while putting harmful microorganisms at a disadvantage. As our first line of defence, our skin microbiota is constantly exposed to harsh environmental conditions. Pollution, excessive UV exposure, household chemicals and harsh cosmetics can disrupt its delicate balance. Its only resources for survival are dead corneocytes, sebum and oxidised skin lipids. Sometimes this is simply not enough to cope with environmental conditions. When this barrier weakens, our skin becomes sensitive, dry, infected, itchy and wrinkled: the skin ages. The solution to slowing skin ageing and keeping skin healthy is to provide energy for, and protect, this precious barrier formed by the skin microbiota. Protecting, strengthening and balancing the human skin microbiota is a key strategy for maintaining skin health and beauty. The prebiotic culture significantly improves the skin microbiota, making skin more resilient and healthier.

It works by selectively feeding beneficial bacteria in the skin microbiome, helping to restore the skin barrier, moisturise the skin and provide antioxidant action. It supplies cells with energy for their metabolism, promotes the growth of beneficial microorganisms and puts harmful ones at a disadvantage. It forms a light protective film, maintains the skin's slightly acidic pH and reduces oxidative stress. Clinical studies show that regular use helps maintain skin barrier homeostasis, triggers antioxidant responses and increases skin hydration.

Recommended for dry, sensitive, irritated, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for skin weakened by external factors such as pollution or UV exposure, helping to strengthen its defences and improve hydration. Suitable for all skin types, especially those with a disrupted microbiota, as seen in acne, eczema or ageing skin.

Clinical studies show that regular use of the prebiotic complex increases skin hydration over 28 days and helps maintain skin barrier homeostasis (Prebiulin clinical tests, Givaudan). Prebiotics reduce inflammation and strengthen the barrier, helping to reduce redness in sensitive skin (studies on probiotics and prebiotics in cosmetics, AntiAge.sk).

100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.

It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.

A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.

Allantoin is a natural metabolite found in a variety of plants, including horse chestnut, comfrey, maple and wheat germ. In the cosmetics industry, it is extracted from organically grown plants, ensuring its natural and sustainable origin. This active ingredient is recognised worldwide for its multifunctional skincare properties.

Allantoin works primarily by providing intensive hydration and restoring the skin's natural barrier. It acts as a proven humectant, helping to retain moisture in the deeper layers of the skin. It also has soothing properties and helps reduce redness and irritation. Allantoin stimulates skin tissue regeneration and supports collagen synthesis, helping to renew the skin and minimise visible imperfections. At concentrations of 0,1 to 0,5 %, it has mild keratolytic effects, gently removing dead skin cells without harsh action. It also provides antioxidant protection against free radicals and UV radiation.

Allantoin is an ideal choice particularly for sensitive and irritated skin, including skin prone to eczema and atopic dermatitis. It also works exceptionally well on dry, dehydrated and mature skin in need of intensive regeneration and renewal. Its gentle action makes it safe even for the skin of newborns and young children. It is also recommended for skin with concerns such as acne or psoriasis, as its soothing and healing effects do not cause irritation. It shows no signs of toxicity or potential to cause allergic reactions.

Scientific research confirms allantoin's effectiveness in practice. According to dermatological and cosmetic studies, allantoin at concentrations of 0,2 to 0,5 %, combined with other ingredients, reduces skin irritation and supports regeneration within two to four weeks of regular use. Its keratoplastic and collagen-stimulating properties have long been documented in scientific literature, making it one of the most trusted ingredients in natural cosmetics.

Xanthan gum is a fine powder obtained by fermenting sugar. This 100 % natural stabiliser and emulsifier is used in food and cosmetics. It acts as a thickener, emulsion stabiliser and humectant that binds water and retains it in the skin for a long time. It is obtained by fermenting glucose and sucrose. Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris derived from maize. No genetically modified raw materials are used in its production. This biopolymer is formed through a fermentation process in which Xanthomonas campestris bacteria convert simple sugars from maize, soya or wheat into a complex polysaccharide. The process involves inoculating the culture, fermenting it under controlled temperature and pH conditions, then purifying, spray-drying and milling it into a fine powder. Discovered in the 1950s and patented in 1963 by the USDA, it offers a renewable alternative to traditional thickeners. It is not synthetic but produced biotechnologically from natural sources, making it suitable for organic cosmetics and GMO-free food.

Its mechanism of action involves a high water-binding capacity, which moisturises the skin and improves hydration. It stabilises emulsions by preventing the oil and water phases from separating, helping to restore the skin’s barrier function through improved product consistency. It provides a smooth, silky feel on the skin, making application gentle and reducing friction. At low concentrations, typically 0,1-1 %, it achieves high viscosity, stabilises suspensions and foams, and withstands changes in pH (3-12), temperature and salt levels. It is used to create transparent gels, control the flow properties of water-based formulations and provide flexibility.

It is recommended for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated, sensitive and normal skin, where it improves hydration and comfort. It is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin in cleansing gels and shampoos thanks to its stability at an acidic pH (4,5-5,5). In creams and serums for mature skin, it supports the skin barrier. It does not weigh the skin down, is non-irritating and is ideal for vegan, gluten-free cosmetics.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that xanthan gum at a concentration of 0,5 % in moisturising formulations increased moisture retention in the skin by 25 % after 24 hours compared with a placebo (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that, at 0,3 % in emulsions, it stabilised the barrier function of dry skin 18 % more effectively, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL).