Gentle Face Cleanser - Oil to Gel

Fractionated coconut oil is a 100 % natural oil produced by fractionating coconut oil. This process separates the oil into individual types of fatty acids. It remains liquid and is colourless and odourless. It absorbs very well into the skin and has an unlimited shelf life because it is 100 % saturated. It is a ‘dry’ oil, rich in fatty acids and moisturising components. The fractionation process removes longer-chain fatty acids, such as lauric acid, creating a lightweight blend of medium-chain fatty acids, mainly caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). It comes from the tropical fruit of the coconut palm, which grows in regions such as India, the Philippines and Indonesia. It is a plant-derived glyceride that feels soft to the touch and is biologically compatible with human skin. Unlike raw coconut oil, which solidifies at lower temperatures, fractionated coconut oil stays liquid even in the cold, making it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. It is not synthetic but obtained through physical distillation without chemical additives, and can be certified as an organic extract from organic farming.

A plant-derived glyceride with a very soft feel. It is readily absorbed by human skin, is non-greasy and leaves no oily film. It acts as an emollient, moisturising the skin by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring the lipid barrier. It softens, smooths and conditions the skin. It helps the skin regulate sebum production and pH without blocking pores. The oil improves the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, such as essential oils or herbal ingredients. It acts as a solvent for oil-soluble active ingredients (maceration). As an occlusive, it protects against dryness and supports skin cell regeneration thanks to its saturated fatty acid content. At concentrations of 5-20 % in emulsions, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity without being comedogenic (no risk of clogging pores).

Recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it provides effective hydration without feeling heavy. It is also suitable for normal to combination skin, as it regulates sebum and leaves no film. For oily, dehydrated skin, it is ideal as a lightweight carrier for active ingredients. We do not recommend it for severely acne-prone skin with open lesions, although it is non-comedogenic. Its gentle texture makes it excellent for all ages, especially children, and for atopic skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride at a concentration of 10 % in a moisturising cream reduced TEWL by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in subjects with dry skin. Further research in the Journal of Dermatological Science (2008) showed that fractionated coconut triglycerides support ceramide synthesis in the skin barrier by 18 % in vitro, restoring its protective layer.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

This blend of sugar esters is derived from natural sugar cane and sugar beet, processed through extraction and esterification with fatty acids from coconut oil. This ingredient is a 100 percent natural emulsifier obtained through biotechnological processes that preserve its pure composition. The sugar is purified using plant-derived activated charcoal, without harsh chemical solvents. Instead, environmentally friendly methods using water and natural alcohol are used for the final purification of the sucrose esters. The resulting ingredient is gentle, safe and well tolerated by the skin, making it one of the least irritating surfactants available in natural cosmetics.

Sugar esters act as a gentle emulsifier while also providing a moisturising effect. They work by restoring and protecting the skin’s hydrolipid barrier, preventing the loss of natural moisture and ensuring long-lasting hydration. The molecular structure of sugar esters allows oils and water to be emulsified effectively without disrupting the skin’s natural pH. These esters also form a delicate oily film on the skin’s surface, providing a protective and soothing effect. Their gentle nature means they do not cause irritation, setting them apart from traditional synthetic emulsifiers.

Sugar esters are ideal for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin. Their gentleness also makes them suitable for skin affected by acne and atopic dermatitis. This ingredient is recommended for people with reactive and sensitive skin who cannot tolerate traditional emulsifiers. It is particularly valuable in the formulation of natural gel creams, emulsions and micellar waters for gentle care.

LucyLab uses high-quality sugar esters that meet the strictest ECOCERT and COSMOS certification standards. These globally recognised, highly prestigious certifications for natural and organic cosmetics guarantee that the ingredient is made from at least 95 percent ingredients of natural origin and is produced without genetically modified organisms, parabens or petroleum derivatives.

A unique blend of natural substances with powerful cleansing and anti-inflammatory properties that actively fights acne-causing bacteria. Active ingredients derived from black cumin, magnolia, manuka and chaulmoogra have antimicrobial properties and minimise inflammation in the skin. These ingredients are obtained from plants such as manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) from New Zealand, magnolia bark (Magnolia officinalis) from Asia, black pepper seed extract (Piper nigrum) and oil from manuka branches, all combined with the carrier octyldodecanol. These are organic extracts of natural origin, specially developed for cosmetics without synthetic additives, ensuring a gentle and effective approach to skincare.

It works as a cleansing complex with an antimicrobial mechanism that suppresses the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly P. acnes), minimising inflammatory processes by reducing both primary inflammation and inflammation caused by these bacteria. It has anti-inflammatory properties, regulates sebum production, reduces comedones, pustules and spots, and acts as a powerful antioxidant that protects against oxidative stress. In vitro and in vivo tests demonstrate the blend's synergistic effect in reducing the growth of two different strains of C. acnes. The recommended concentration in formulations is typically 1-5 %, providing optimal efficacy without irritation.

It is particularly recommended for oily, combination and acne-prone skin, where it regulates excess sebum production and reduces inflammation. It is also suitable for sensitive skin prone to spots, dehydrated skin with an impaired barrier, and mature skin, where antioxidants slow down ageing. It is not ideal for extremely dry skin without excess sebum concerns, as its cleansing effects may need to be balanced with additional hydrating ingredients. Regular use strengthens the skin, leaving it clearer, less prone to breakouts and more elastic.

In vitro studies have shown that CutiBiome CLR™ at a concentration of 2 % inhibits the growth of virulent phylotypes of Cutibacterium acnes by more than 90 % and significantly reduces acne-related inflammation (according to tests by the manufacturer CLR). In vivo tests on volunteers showed a 40-60 % reduction in the number of comedones and pustules after 4 weeks of application in creams (results from clinical trials listed in the product specifications). Another study confirmed a 30 % reduction in sebum in individuals with oily skin (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018, on similar antimicrobial complexes with manuka).

A 100% plant-derived emulsifier. A blend of sugar and the naturally occurring substance stearic acid. In nature, sucrose is found in most fruit and vegetables. Usually sourced from sugar cane and sugar beet, sucrose is the raw material used to produce ordinary white sugar, a common ingredient in many foods. Stearic acid is a fatty acid found in high concentrations in shea butter and cocoa butter. These raw materials are obtained from renewable plant sources, ensuring they are fully compatible with the principles of natural cosmetics. The manufacturing process involves esterifying sucrose with stearic acid, creating a non-ionic emulsifier with low ecotoxicity and high biodegradability. LucyLab uses high-quality sugar esters that meet the strictest Ecocert and COSMOS certification standards, the world's most prestigious certifications for natural and organic cosmetics.

It is an emollient that softens the skin and smooths its texture, provides hydration, reduces skin irritation and leaves skin feeling soothed. As an emulsifier, it stabilises emulsions in creams, lotions and gels, ensuring an even distribution of active ingredients. It works by promoting the formation of a protective lipid film on the skin's surface to help retain moisture, restoring the skin barrier through the emollient properties of stearic acid, and soothing irritation with its gentle texture. At concentrations of 2-5 %, it significantly improves the flow and texture of products and makes them feel more comfortable on the skin without greasiness.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated and mature skin, where it effectively hydrates and strengthens the skin barrier. It is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin in lightweight formulations, as it does not clog pores and reduces irritation caused by other ingredients. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that sucrose stearate at a concentration of 3 % reduced transepidermal water loss by 25 % after 4 weeks of application to dry skin and improved skin elasticity by 18 % (Draelos et al., 2015). Further research in the Journal of Surfactants and Detergents (2018) confirmed that at a concentration of 4 %, it provides excellent emulsion stability at pH 5-7 and minimises irritation compared with synthetic emulsifiers.

100 % natural vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant containing a blend of alpha, beta, gamma and delta tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the skin from UV damage and improves skin texture and moisture levels. Our natural vitamin E contains no chemicals or solvents. Vitamin E supports the skin’s defences and fights the signs of skin ageing – it can improve texture, smooth the skin, increase elasticity, reduce wrinkles and help prevent age spots. It is derived from plant oils such as wheat germ, sunflower and hazelnut oils, in which it naturally occurs at high concentrations, for example 149 mg per 100 g in wheat germ oil. It is a purely natural organic extract with no synthetic additives, retaining its full biological activity.

It renews cells, boosts circulation in the skin and helps retain water in the upper layers of the skin. This vitamin has a very beneficial effect on overall skin vitality, helps with various forms of inflammation and damage, and contributes to scar healing. Vitamin E is the best natural antioxidant. It neutralises free radicals in the skin, slowing the ageing process and reducing fine lines. This vitamin is particularly suitable for use during summer, as it protects the skin from the effects of UV radiation. It works by neutralising free radicals, restoring the skin barrier, providing deep hydration by binding moisture in the stratum corneum and strengthening the protective barrier, offering antioxidant protection against UV and pollution, and soothing inflammation through its anti-inflammatory action. At concentrations of 0,5-5 % in cosmetics, it significantly improves hydration and elasticity.

It is recommended for dry, sensitive, mature and dehydrated skin, as well as skin exposed to environmental stress, sunlight or ageing. It is ideal for those seeking natural protection against wrinkles, pigmentation spots and loss of elasticity, including those with acne-prone skin and scarring, thanks to its healing properties.

A study by Gensler et al. showed that applying d-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate to the skin reduces lipid peroxide formation and oxidative stress, protecting skin cells from damage and providing photoprotective effects. Further research confirms that vitamin E combined with vitamin C increases protection against UVA radiation and supports collagen production. These findings highlight its effectiveness at concentrations commonly used in cosmetics.

Description

This natural oil is extracted from oat kernels (Avena sativa) and is a bioactive ingredient rich in essential plant-derived lipids. Its distinctive composition closely resembles the natural lipids in human skin. The oil contains a high concentration of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that is a key component of the skin's moisture barrier. It is also a source of powerful antioxidants, including vitamin E in the form of tocopherols and tocotrienols, which protect the skin's lipids from deterioration caused by oxidative stress. The ingredient has a low viscosity, allowing it to absorb quickly without leaving a greasy film on the skin's surface.

Function

Oat lipid oil works in several ways. Primarily, it moisturises the skin and restores its natural lipid barrier thanks to its high linoleic acid content, which is essential for retaining water in the epidermis. Another important benefit is antioxidant protection: vitamin E and other antioxidants neutralise free radicals that cause premature skin ageing and damage. The oil also supports the skin's own production of ceramides, natural lipids that are essential for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier. Thanks to its regenerating properties and ready absorption, it helps repair the skin without leaving it feeling greasy.

Recommendations

Oat lipid oil is ideally suited to dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin. It is particularly recommended for skin with a compromised barrier that needs intensive regeneration and care. It is also recommended for skin affected by atopic dermatitis or sensitive to external factors. It is suitable for mature skin too, helping to reduce the signs of ageing and restore elasticity. Its natural origin and high tolerability make it a safe choice even for very sensitive and reactive skin types.

Scientific evidence

The effectiveness of linoleic acid in restoring the skin barrier has long been documented in scientific literature. Studies confirm that the linoleic acid in oat oil significantly improves cohesion in the stratum corneum and helps the skin retain moisture by reducing transepidermal water loss. As an antioxidant, vitamin E reduces oxidative stress and supports the skin's natural regeneration processes at a cellular level.

Soap nuts are the fruit of the Sapindus mukorossi tree, which grows mainly in India and Nepal in areas near the Himalayas. They are a natural, plant-based resource that people in these regions have used for thousands of years. The tree grows up to 15 metres tall, and a single healthy specimen can produce up to 35 kilograms of soap nuts a year. When ripe, they turn golden. The main active compounds in soap nuts are saponins – natural compounds that create foam around synthetic fibres and have exceptional cleansing properties without the irritation typically associated with synthetic laundry detergents.

The saponins in soap nuts work in several ways – as well as cleansing and removing excess sebum and impurities from the skin, they have an antioxidant effect. Soap nut extract contains polyphenolic compounds that neutralise free radicals and slow down the skin's ageing process. The average concentration of saponins in recommended cosmetic products containing soap nuts ranges from 1 to 5 percent. In addition to their antioxidant action, saponins also have natural antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties that reduce inflammation and help prevent acne and other skin problems. These compounds also absorb and lock moisture into the skin, providing long-lasting hydration without leaving it feeling dry.

Soap nuts are ideal for all skin types, particularly for people with dry, sensitive or dehydrated skin, as well as those with eczema, psoriasis or acne-prone skin. They are also suitable for newborns and infants thanks to their gentle, non-irritating composition, free from synthetic fragrances and allergens. Dermatological studies have confirmed that soap nut saponins effectively remove bacteria and impurities without causing allergic reactions – which is why soap nuts have become a popular ingredient in products for extremely sensitive skin and for people prone to allergic reactions.

It has a delicate, fresh citrus-floral scent. This oil has uplifting and cleansing properties and supports concentration. It has antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. The oil is excellent for delicate and sensitive skin, and also benefits oily, inflamed and acne-prone skin. It is obtained by distilling the fruit of the tropical tree Litsea cubeba, which grows in subtropical regions of Southeast Asia, particularly in China, Indonesia and Taiwan. It is a 100 % natural essential oil with no synthetic additives, often also available from certified organic cultivation. It contains high levels of citral (up to 70 %), geraniol and limonene, which give it its distinctive scent and therapeutic properties. In traditional Chinese medicine, it is used to harmonise energy and relieve stress, while in modern aromatherapy it is used to prevent infections and support mental wellbeing.

Its action is primarily based on its strong antibacterial, antifungal and antiseptic properties, which inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms on the skin. It has pronounced anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing redness and irritation. As an antioxidant, it protects cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals. It supports skin barrier regeneration and pore cleansing, helping to balance the skin's pH. In cosmetics, a concentration of 0,5-2 % is recommended in formulations for facial serums, creams or lotions to avoid irritation. In aromatherapy, it is used in diffusers or diluted in a carrier oil for massage.

It is particularly recommended for oily, inflamed and acne-prone skin, where it helps regulate sebum production and fights acne-causing bacteria. Its soothing properties also make it suitable for sensitive and delicate skin, as well as dehydrated skin, where it supports barrier repair. For mature skin, it acts as an antioxidant to slow ageing. It is not recommended for children under 6 years of age, pregnant women or anyone with a citrus allergy. Always dilute and carry out a patch test. Ideal for skin affected by eczema or fungal infections.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2015) demonstrated that Litsea cubeba essential oil at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 95 % and Candida albicans by 89 % after 24 hours of exposure, confirming its antimicrobial effects (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2015). Further research in Molecules (2018) showed that citral from the oil reduces the inflammatory markers IL-6 and TNF-α by 60 % in human keratinocyte cell cultures.