5% Glycolic Acid - Overnight Liquid Exfoliant

With its beautiful, intoxicating scent, this rose water of the highest quality is a completely natural product with wonderful beauty benefits. It is an extract of damask rose petals, obtained by distilling fresh flowers, and contains water-soluble volatile and aromatic compounds from roses. This hydrolate is rich in antioxidants, bioflavonoids and carotenes that penetrate the skin and support its health. Thanks to its strong antibacterial properties, it is made without preservatives, and is hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin. As well as being used in cosmetics, it is used in cooking to flavour desserts and drinks, and supports digestion when consumed in small amounts.

Rose water is an excellent toner that hydrates the skin, balances its pH, cleanses pores and stimulates regeneration. It has strong antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, disinfects, prevents inflammation and tightens pores. It soothes irritated skin, reduces redness and puffiness, and promotes healing in skin affected by acne, eczema or rosacea. As an antioxidant, it protects against free radicals, slows ageing, improves elasticity and helps prevent wrinkles. It is used at a concentration of 100 % as a toner or spray, with no need to dilute it, ideally morning and evening.

We recommend it for dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin. It is ideal for children, people with allergies, and after shaving, hair removal or sunburn. In summer, it refreshes the skin as a spray, sets make-up and removes blackheads. Suitable for anyone looking for natural, alcohol-free skincare.

A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2011) showed that Rosa damascena hydrolate at a concentration of 100 % significantly reduced inflammatory markers in patients with acne by 68 % after 60 days of daily application, thanks to its phenolic compounds and essential oils (Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2011). Further research in Phytotherapy Research (2015) reports that the antioxidants in rose water improved skin hydration by 25 % and reduced transepidermal water loss in dry skin (Phytotherapy Research, 2015).

LucyLab uses alcohol in its Night Facial Essence and Retinol booster - night care products. Formulations of these products with and without alcohol were tested over an extended period. The results showed that the skin responds more quickly and the intended effect is achieved sooner and with better results when alcohol is included in the formula. The product was tested on our volunteers for 6 months. Women with various skin types took part in the test. No irritation or dryness was recorded in any case, so this product is suitable for all skin types, including dry and sensitive skin. Alcohol is a clear, colourless liquid with a characteristic alcoholic smell. It is most commonly produced by fermenting simple carbohydrates using yeast. It is made from a prepared sugar solution or from crops such as potatoes, maize or sugar cane. Ethanol can also be produced synthetically.

It increases skin permeability, allowing other substances (particularly active ingredients) to be absorbed more quickly, enhancing their effects. It has antimicrobial properties. It is generally recommended for combination and oilier skin, as it helps regulate sebaceous gland activity. At lower concentrations, it does not harm sensitive or dry skin either. Alcohol is an essential ingredient in some cosmetic products. It helps active ingredients absorb into the skin, greatly improves their penetration and helps vitamins reach the skin. It also replaces preservatives. Alcohol helps retain fragrance essences, acts against bacteria, speeds up the penetration of active ingredients into the skin and regulates sebum production. As alcohol evaporates quickly, it creates a mild cooling effect after a product containing it is applied, and also has astringent (tightening) properties. Low-molecular-weight alcohols such as ethanol at concentrations above 20 % in leave-on products temporarily reduce skin barrier integrity and increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Alcohol is suitable for all skin types, including dry, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin, when used at an appropriate concentration in a well-balanced formula. We particularly recommend it for oily and combination skin, where it regulates sebaceous gland activity and provides a mattifying effect, and also for sensitive skin at low concentrations below 5-10 %, where it improves the penetration of active ingredients without irritation. For dry or eczema-prone skin, we choose formulas with fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol, which restore the skin barrier.

A study published in the Journal of Hospital Infection confirmed that frequent use of alcohol-containing products by healthcare workers disrupted the skin barrier, leading to increased susceptibility to infections and loss of hydration. Further research showed that ethanol at concentrations of 10-15 % in toners can cause stinging and increased TEWL in sensitive skin, while at low concentrations below 5 % in emulsions it improves absorption without significant adverse effects.

An alpha-hydroxy acid, more commonly known as an AHA. It is isolated from natural sources, mainly sugar cane and sugar beet, as well as pineapple or grapes. It is an exceptionally potent active ingredient. As well as being obtained from natural sources, it can be produced synthetically for greater purity and stability, which is common in cosmetic manufacturing. Organic cosmetics favour extracts from certified plant sources, such as sugar cane, which offers an environmentally friendly alternative without chemical additives. This substance is one of the smallest AHAs, allowing it to act effectively on the skin.

It has a very low molecular weight, so it not only "works" on the skin's surface, where it removes the hardened layer of dead skin cells, but also penetrates the skin easily, influencing functions across all its layers. This delivers quick, visible results. It exfoliates by removing dead cells, hydrates by helping the skin retain moisture, restores the skin barrier by stimulating cell renewal, and acts as an antioxidant against free radicals. It soothes irritated skin and regulates sebum production. Recommended concentrations are 5-10 % for home care, with higher concentrations of 20-70 % for supervised professional peels.

It brightens the skin and prevents melanin from clustering, helping to prevent unwanted pigmentation. It unclogs pores and clears excess sebum, preventing the overgrowth of bacteria within the pores and reducing acne and blackheads. It stimulates collagen and elastin production, helping to reduce lines and wrinkles. It softens the skin, giving it a healthier appearance and improving its overall texture. It creates a funnel-like pathway in the skin, helping active ingredients penetrate significantly better. Ideal for dry, oily, acne-prone, dehydrated and mature skin, especially for those with hyperpigmentation or rough skin texture. On sensitive skin, use with caution and increase the concentration gradually.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2002) demonstrated that daily application of 8 % glycolic acid for 22 weeks led to a 19 % improvement in skin smoothness and a 25 % reduction in the length of fine lines in women with photoaged skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (1996) showed that a 12 % concentration increased collagen synthesis in the dermal layer by 14,6 % after 6 months, as measured histologically.

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a colourless, viscous liquid often used as a more environmentally friendly alternative to propylene glycol. It has excellent hydrating properties, making it useful in cosmetics such as creams, serums and facial toners, where it acts as a humectant and solvent. In industry, it also serves as a raw material for producing polymers and biodegradable plastics. It is well tolerated by the skin and is considered a safe, gentle ingredient. This substance is obtained by fermenting natural sources, such as corn sugar or glucose from plant materials, making it a renewable alternative to petrochemical glycols. Unlike synthetic propylene glycol, which is derived from petroleum, propanediol supports sustainability and is biodegradable, reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.

Propanediol acts primarily as a humectant, hydrating the skin by binding water from its surroundings and preventing its loss through transepidermal evaporation. It improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin thanks to its ability to act as a solvent and penetration enhancer. It supports skin barrier repair by increasing hydration and elasticity without causing irritation. At concentrations of 2-10 %, it significantly improves the sensory properties of formulations, reduces the stickiness of other humectants such as glycerine, and contributes to the overall stability of emulsions.

This ingredient is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and oily skin, including acne-prone and mature skin. It is recommended for all age groups, particularly those looking for environmentally friendly, gentle ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is suitable for products for children and for sensitive areas such as the eye contour, where it replaces potentially irritating alternatives.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that propanediol at a concentration of 5 % improved skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application compared with a placebo, as measured by corneometry. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that at a concentration of 3-7 %, it increased the penetration of niacinamide into the skin by 40 %, enhancing its hydrating and barrier-supporting effects.

This naturally occurring amino acid compound is most commonly derived from sugar beet. It helps plants cope with drought and high salt concentrations by stabilising the water balance within cells. In cosmetics, it is used as an osmolyte and humectant. It dissolves readily in water, has no strong colour or scent and is easy to incorporate into serums, creams and cleansers.

Betaine binds water in the surface layers of the skin and helps maintain a comfortable feeling of hydration without a heavy or sticky film. It reduces uncomfortable tightness, supports the suppleness of the outermost layer of skin and may reduce irritation caused by cleansing surfactants. Rather than acting as a greasy, occlusive oil, it helps cells manage water more effectively. In formulations, it is often combined with glycerine, panthenol, hyaluronic acid or components of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.

We particularly recommend it for dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin and skin with a compromised barrier. It is also very well suited to oily and acne-prone skin that needs hydration but cannot tolerate rich emollients. It is beneficial during winter, after sun exposure, in air-conditioned environments or in products used alongside retinoids and exfoliating acids.

In a study of a cream containing 4 per cent betaine, a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss was recorded after four weeks, suggesting improved skin barrier function. Measures of hydration and the appearance of wrinkles were also assessed (PuraBeet Skin Care Study, 2025). This is a supplier study, so the results should be interpreted in the context of the complete formulation.

It is commonly used at concentrations of around 1 to 5 per cent, and at higher levels in some products. It is stable across a wide pH range and is generally well tolerated. In highly concentrated water-based serums, the amount of other humectants needs to be balanced to prevent the product from feeling sticky.

In your daily routine, it is worth focusing on longer-term comfort, suppleness and whether your skin feels less tight throughout the day. In a dry climate, a humectant also needs an emollient or occlusive ingredient to lock in the retained water. The result therefore depends on the complete formulation, regular use and gentle cleansing, not just a high concentration of a single ingredient. Regular application in an appropriate amount is also important.

Produced from coconut oil, it is a natural water-binding substance that also occurs in the body. Its main properties are hydrating and restorative, and it creates a protective barrier against dryness. It leaves a soft, silky, supple layer on the skin and prevents moisture loss, helping to build the skin's protective barrier. Its concentration in the finished product is important. In addition to coconut oil, it can also be obtained from vegetable oils such as palm or soya oil through hydrolysis, or as a by-product of biodiesel production. It belongs to a group of humectants that can bind up to 1000 times their weight in water from their surroundings, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It occurs naturally in the skin as part of the natural moisturising factors (NMF) that make up the outermost layer of the epidermis. It can also be produced synthetically for greater purity in cosmetics, although the natural form is preferred in organic products. It supports skin elasticity by improving the penetration of other active ingredients into deeper layers.

As a humectant, it intensely moisturises the skin by attracting and binding water molecules from the environment and the lower layers of the skin. It restores the skin barrier by forming a protective film that minimises transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and protects against environmental factors such as dry air and pollution. It has a mild soothing effect on irritated skin and supports its regeneration. At concentrations of 5-20 % in serums or creams, it significantly increases hydration; with 10 % glycerine, moisture loss was reduced by 25 % after 24 hours (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). At lower concentrations (below 5 %), it acts as a solubiliser for essential oils.

It is recommended for dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skin, where it prevents wrinkles caused by dehydration. At low concentrations, it is also suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, as it does not leave a greasy film and regulates hydration without clogging pores. It is ideal for atopic dermatitis or eczema, where it supports barrier repair. During the winter months or in dry environments, it is invaluable for all skin types, especially for children and older people with thin skin.

A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that a 20 % glycerine solution increased skin hydration by 40 % after 7 days of application in women with dry skin. Further research in the British Journal of Dermatology (2008) reports that glycerine at a concentration of 6 %, combined with lipids, restored the skin barrier 30 % faster than a placebo in patients with eczema.

A multifunctional additive suitable for formulating preservative-free cosmetic products. Both ingredients have intrinsic antimicrobial properties that allow products to be formulated safely with a low potential for irritation and sensitisation. Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. At higher concentrations, it causes mild skin and eye irritation. It poses no risk to the foetus or to pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is vegan and permitted in organic cosmetics. Caprylyl glycol is obtained from coconut or palm oil, making it a naturally derived substance suitable for vegan and organic formulations.

Phenethyl alcohol is an organic compound in the form of a colourless liquid. It occurs naturally in essential oils and has a pleasant floral scent. In cosmetics, it acts as a preservative and fragrance ingredient. It is found in make-up, eye make-up, personal care products, shampoos, perfumes and colognes. Phenethyl alcohol is safe in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of up to 1 %. Caprylyl glycol is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier, improving product texture and helping water and oil combine effectively. It is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that maintains the skin's moisture balance. It also acts as a stabiliser and preservative and enhances the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it is often used in preservative blends. Its multifunctional nature (moisturising and antimicrobial) makes it useful in many cosmetic products. Its mechanism of action involves moisturising, restoring the skin barrier and providing antimicrobial protection; phenethyl alcohol inhibits the growth of bacteria and yeasts at concentrations of 0,5-1 %, while caprylyl glycol retains moisture and enhances the antimicrobial effect at levels of 0,5-2 %.

It is mild and gentle on the skin and can be used in products for children's skin. Allergic reactions to caprylyl glycol are very rare, and it is very well tolerated. It is recommended for dry, sensitive, dehydrated, oily and acne-prone skin, as well as mature skin and products for children aged 0+ years. Its low sensitisation potential makes it ideal for atopic skin, eczema or rosacea, where it minimises the risk of irritation with long-term use.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014) demonstrated that a blend of phenethyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus by 99,9 % and Candida albicans by 95 % after 7 days of incubation, significantly extending the microbial stability of emulsions without traditional preservatives. Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) confirmed that caprylyl glycol at a concentration of 1 % improves skin hydration by 25 % after 4 weeks of application in individuals with dry skin.

is an exceptionally powerful antioxidant belonging to the polyphenol group. It protects cells, tissues and organs from the effects of free radicals, which cause premature cell ageing and impair cell health and function. This natural polyphenol occurs in the skins of red grapes, where the plant produces it as a defence against pathogens and UV radiation. It can also be extracted from Japanese knotweed roots or produced synthetically in laboratories for greater purity in cosmetics. Organic extracts are popular for their environmentally friendly origins and preserved synergy with other plant compounds, while the synthetic form ensures stability in formulations.

Its mechanism of action involves powerful antioxidant activity that neutralises free radicals and protects cells from oxidative stress. It strengthens the skin's immune system by activating longevity genes known as sirtuins, thereby slowing ageing. It protects against harmful environmental influences, particularly damage caused by UV radiation, which contributes to skin ageing and pigmentation. It helps stimulate mitochondria, which support cellular respiration, helps slow premature cell ageing and has a rejuvenating effect on the skin. By restoring collagen fibres, it improves the skin's elasticity, smoothness and appearance. It supports the skin's defences and vitality and has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal effects. It firms and smooths the skin, improves its elasticity and regenerates collagen fibres. The recommended concentration in cosmetics is 0,5 to 2 per cent for optimal effectiveness without irritation.

Ideal for mature skin showing the first signs of ageing, dry and dehydrated skin, sensitive skin prone to inflammation, and skin exposed to environmental stress, including photoageing. I recommend it for people with pigmentation spots, those with acne-prone skin thanks to its antibacterial properties, and anyone looking to prevent wrinkles and loss of elasticity. It is also suitable for men to soothe and regenerate the skin after shaving.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2014) showed that resveratrol at a concentration of 0,5 %, applied topically for 8 weeks, reduced wrinkles by 12 % and increased collagen expression by 20 % in women with photoaged skin. Further research in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2018) showed that resveratrol at a concentration of 1 % inhibits melanogenesis by 45 % in vitro, reducing hyperpigmentation caused by UVB radiation.

This water-soluble salt is derived from glycyrrhizic acid, the main sweet component of liquorice root. Converting it into a potassium salt improves its solubility and suitability for water-based serums and emulsions. It is a popular soothing ingredient for sensitive skin and is often combined with panthenol, oats or niacinamide.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate suppresses inflammatory signals, helps reduce redness and uncomfortable itching, and helps soothe skin with a weakened barrier. It also has antioxidant and mild antimicrobial properties. It is neither a corticosteroid nor a treatment for eczema, but a gentle cosmetic ingredient that supports the skin. In a hydrating formulation, it may reduce reactivity caused by dryness, cleansing or environmental stress.

We recommend it for sensitive, dry, reactive, acne-prone skin and skin prone to redness. It is also suitable for use in aftershave and after-sun products, or when using retinoids. If you have diagnosed dermatitis, it should be part of a simple skincare routine approved by a dermatologist. An allergy to liquorice is rare, but possible.

A clinical study in adults with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis showed that regular use of an emollient containing dipotassium glycyrrhizate reduced symptoms and the frequency of flare-ups (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2025). The result applied to the complete emollient formulation, so the effect cannot be attributed solely to one ingredient.

It is commonly used at a concentration of approximately 0,1 to 1 per cent. It is water-soluble and suitable for the cool-down phase. The formulation should have a slightly acidic to neutral pH. For sensitive skin, it is important to minimise fragrance and harsh preservative or exfoliating systems.

Its soothing effect is best achieved in a simple routine without excessive fragrance, essential oils or layering several acids at the same time. If your skin is reactive, it is sensible to test a new product on a small area first. Persistent burning, significant flaking or worsening redness are not signs of normal adjustment and are reasons to stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. Consistent daily sun protection is also important.

Fennel essential oil comes from the Foeniculum vulgare plant, which is traditionally grown in Greece, Japan, India and North Africa. The oil is obtained by steam distillation of the herb's seeds and is a natural extract rich in active compounds. Its main active components are anethole (up to 75%), limonene and alpha-pinene. It is a 100% natural product that has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and aromatherapy.

In cosmetics, fennel oil acts as a moisturising and soothing agent. It helps regulate skin hydration while soothing the skin thanks to its antiseptic and anti-infective properties. The oil also supports skin barrier repair and improves blood circulation. It contains natural compounds with strong antioxidant potential that protect the skin from free radicals. Its composition provides a mild toning and firming effect, making it effective in mature skin care too.

Fennel essential oil is particularly recommended for dry, sensitive and mature skin in need of soothing and hydration. It is also suitable for dehydrated skin and problem skin prone to inflammation. Thanks to its antiseptic properties, it is also suitable for acne-prone and oily skin, where it helps control infection and inflammation. The oil is used in anti-ageing formulas and is found in facial toners, creams and hair care products.

Scientific studies confirm fennel's therapeutic potential. Research has shown that fennel essential oil has antimicrobial, antibacterial and antifungal activity thanks to its high concentration of trans-anethole. The oil effectively reduces skin inflammation and supports wound healing. Studies also document fennel's antispasmodic effect and its ability to reduce swelling and water retention in the body, which is particularly beneficial when caring for mature skin and skin affected by puffiness.

HyActive™ is a very low molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of approximately 10–150 kDa. It is produced by biotechnological fermentation and is used in cosmetic formulations primarily for intense hydration, to support skin elasticity and to care for visible signs of ageing. Its manufacturer, Contipro, classifies it as an active form of sodium hyaluronate designed to act deeper within the skin and recommends using it at a concentration of approximately 0.01–0.1%. HyActive™ is also approved for use in natural cosmetics under the COSMOS standard.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin's extracellular matrix. Thanks to its ability to bind water, it makes a significant contribution to skin hydration, elasticity and overall comfort. However, molecular weight affects how different forms of hyaluronic acid behave within the skin. A review of scientific literature published in 2025 states that forms of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight below 100 kDa can penetrate deeper into the skin than high molecular weight forms.

A clinical study involving 76 women examined the topical application of 0.1% hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights. After 60 days, all the forms tested improved skin hydration and elasticity. The low molecular weight forms of 50 and 130 kDa also showed a significant improvement in wrinkle depth compared with the control formulation.

The manufacturer of HyActive™ also reports that it supports the skin's own production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, helps restore the skin barrier and supports skin exposed to oxidative and environmental stress. These effects complement the classic hydrating function of hyaluronic acid and make HyActive™ a particularly suitable ingredient for dry, dehydrated, tired or more mature skin.

In LucyLab products, we use it primarily where we want to combine an immediate hydrating effect with longer-term support for skin elasticity, smoothness and overall quality.

Xanthan gum is a fine powder obtained by fermenting sugar. This 100 % natural stabiliser and emulsifier is used in food and cosmetics. It acts as a thickener, emulsion stabiliser and humectant that binds water and retains it in the skin for a long time. It is obtained by fermenting glucose and sucrose. Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris derived from maize. No genetically modified raw materials are used in its production. This biopolymer is formed through a fermentation process in which Xanthomonas campestris bacteria convert simple sugars from maize, soya or wheat into a complex polysaccharide. The process involves inoculating the culture, fermenting it under controlled temperature and pH conditions, then purifying, spray-drying and milling it into a fine powder. Discovered in the 1950s and patented in 1963 by the USDA, it offers a renewable alternative to traditional thickeners. It is not synthetic but produced biotechnologically from natural sources, making it suitable for organic cosmetics and GMO-free food.

Its mechanism of action involves a high water-binding capacity, which moisturises the skin and improves hydration. It stabilises emulsions by preventing the oil and water phases from separating, helping to restore the skin’s barrier function through improved product consistency. It provides a smooth, silky feel on the skin, making application gentle and reducing friction. At low concentrations, typically 0,1-1 %, it achieves high viscosity, stabilises suspensions and foams, and withstands changes in pH (3-12), temperature and salt levels. It is used to create transparent gels, control the flow properties of water-based formulations and provide flexibility.

It is recommended for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated, sensitive and normal skin, where it improves hydration and comfort. It is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin in cleansing gels and shampoos thanks to its stability at an acidic pH (4,5-5,5). In creams and serums for mature skin, it supports the skin barrier. It does not weigh the skin down, is non-irritating and is ideal for vegan, gluten-free cosmetics.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2015) showed that xanthan gum at a concentration of 0,5 % in moisturising formulations increased moisture retention in the skin by 25 % after 24 hours compared with a placebo (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015). Further research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2018) reports that, at 0,3 % in emulsions, it stabilised the barrier function of dry skin 18 % more effectively, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL).